Xtr2 hayabusa oil change tips ? Dry sump
Discussion
Hi guys any tips on doing an oil change on this set up ? Westfield xtr2 dry sump & hayabusa power Obviously all oil & filters will be removed & new filter replaced
What's the best oil & how much will it take ? Never had a dry sump set up before & wanting to get it right 1st time
This is soon to be my track car
What's the best oil & how much will it take ? Never had a dry sump set up before & wanting to get it right 1st time
This is soon to be my track car
I struggled with mine as I filled it to the line towards the top (westfield megabusa sump on MK Indy hayabusa) but when I started the car it absolutely pissed oil out of the oil breather on the top of the dry sump tank. I guess you have to get the final level when the engine is running
Warm the engine up then run it at high enough revs to get the scavenge pumps working properly for a few seconds and switch off, that will pull the oil out of the engine into the tank. Too low revs and the scavenge stage isn't fully functioning so wont pull all the oil out.
Once you have done that, dump the oil and change your filters, dump oil out of the coolers too if you have any.
Then when filling up, fill the tank to the normal level, prime the system if that's required, then run the engine up making sure priming didn't drop the oil level in the tank too much.
To final set the oil level, warm the engine up fully then run the engine up at high enough revs for the scavenge pumps to work fully, switch off and check the tank level immediately and set to the required level.
Dry sump systems are designed to work at on track rpm levels, if you let them sit and idle, the tank level drops lower than when in proper use, because the scavenge stage isn't working efficiently. If you set the level without the scavenge pumps fully up to speed you will overfill it and it will piss out the breathers once up to speed.
Some systems when the engine isn't running will allow the oil tank to empty into the engine via slow capillary action through the pump, so it looks like the oil level is low when you come to check it before initial cold starting. In particularly bad installations you can lose all the oil out of the tank and fill the engine with oil above the pistons, so when you fire it up you get oil out the exhausts.
If that happens then you can either pull the oil out of the tank when the car is in storage (use a vacuum pump oil storage tank system), fit a stop tap to the oil tank feed to the pump, or redesign it.
Once you have done that, dump the oil and change your filters, dump oil out of the coolers too if you have any.
Then when filling up, fill the tank to the normal level, prime the system if that's required, then run the engine up making sure priming didn't drop the oil level in the tank too much.
To final set the oil level, warm the engine up fully then run the engine up at high enough revs for the scavenge pumps to work fully, switch off and check the tank level immediately and set to the required level.
Dry sump systems are designed to work at on track rpm levels, if you let them sit and idle, the tank level drops lower than when in proper use, because the scavenge stage isn't working efficiently. If you set the level without the scavenge pumps fully up to speed you will overfill it and it will piss out the breathers once up to speed.
Some systems when the engine isn't running will allow the oil tank to empty into the engine via slow capillary action through the pump, so it looks like the oil level is low when you come to check it before initial cold starting. In particularly bad installations you can lose all the oil out of the tank and fill the engine with oil above the pistons, so when you fire it up you get oil out the exhausts.
If that happens then you can either pull the oil out of the tank when the car is in storage (use a vacuum pump oil storage tank system), fit a stop tap to the oil tank feed to the pump, or redesign it.
jsf said:
Warm the engine up then run it at high enough revs to get the scavenge pumps working properly for a few seconds and switch off, that will pull the oil out of the engine into the tank. Too low revs and the scavenge stage isn't fully functioning so wont pull all the oil out.
Once you have done that, dump the oil and change your filters, dump oil out of the coolers too if you have any.
Then when filling up, fill the tank to the normal level, prime the system if that's required, then run the engine up making sure priming didn't drop the oil level in the tank too much.
To final set the oil level, warm the engine up fully then run the engine up at high enough revs for the scavenge pumps to work fully, switch off and check the tank level immediately and set to the required level.
Dry sump systems are designed to work at on track rpm levels, if you let them sit and idle, the tank level drops lower than when in proper use, because the scavenge stage isn't working efficiently. If you set the level without the scavenge pumps fully up to speed you will overfill it and it will piss out the breathers once up to speed.
Some systems when the engine isn't running will allow the oil tank to empty into the engine via slow capillary action through the pump, so it looks like the oil level is low when you come to check it before initial cold starting. In particularly bad installations you can lose all the oil out of the tank and fill the engine with oil above the pistons, so when you fire it up you get oil out the exhausts.
If that happens then you can either pull the oil out of the tank when the car is in storage (use a vacuum pump oil storage tank system), fit a stop tap to the oil tank feed to the pump, or redesign it.
Very interesting post, thanks. Once you have done that, dump the oil and change your filters, dump oil out of the coolers too if you have any.
Then when filling up, fill the tank to the normal level, prime the system if that's required, then run the engine up making sure priming didn't drop the oil level in the tank too much.
To final set the oil level, warm the engine up fully then run the engine up at high enough revs for the scavenge pumps to work fully, switch off and check the tank level immediately and set to the required level.
Dry sump systems are designed to work at on track rpm levels, if you let them sit and idle, the tank level drops lower than when in proper use, because the scavenge stage isn't working efficiently. If you set the level without the scavenge pumps fully up to speed you will overfill it and it will piss out the breathers once up to speed.
Some systems when the engine isn't running will allow the oil tank to empty into the engine via slow capillary action through the pump, so it looks like the oil level is low when you come to check it before initial cold starting. In particularly bad installations you can lose all the oil out of the tank and fill the engine with oil above the pistons, so when you fire it up you get oil out the exhausts.
If that happens then you can either pull the oil out of the tank when the car is in storage (use a vacuum pump oil storage tank system), fit a stop tap to the oil tank feed to the pump, or redesign it.
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