DPF Troubles - break, sell or fix?
Discussion
MattOz said:
What? With the appropriate DPF cleaner that the company I referred to uses? Must've missed that bit. It may have been the same stuff, but maybe not. Worth trying again if it's particularly coked up.
That only cures a symptom, not the problem. It's like cutting off a hand to cure the symptoms of a heart attack.eltax91 said:
So all. It's looking like I'm going to have to sell it as broken. The fix is looking like it will cost too much.
Anyone want to hazard a guess how much I'll get back for the old shed with a flashing DPF light?
I didn't tell you this because it's not possible to reset the DPF and disable it from recurring - that's something you cannot have done by anyone who has access to half-decent diagnostic kit...Anyone want to hazard a guess how much I'll get back for the old shed with a flashing DPF light?
That's definately NOT something you'd want to do
It's also probably been mentioned, but the DPF warning tells you there's a problem with the DPF but the thing is - that's like telling you that there's oil pouring out of the exhaust. The problem isn't that - it's where the oil is coming from - e.g. a knackered turbo most likely??
These Mazdas inject extra diesel into the cylinders after the ignition stroke which then ignites in the DPF.
For whatever reason, if the DPF cannot regen or the engine is turned off during a regen (quite feasible as it can take up to half an hour!) then the extra diesel is dumped into the sump. Hence these Mazdas have an "X" on the dipstick about an inch ABOVE the full mark, when the oil gets to this level it needs draining out and changing.
I'm not sure on the lubrication properties of diesel, but I'm fairly certain they aren't a patch on the Dexellia 5w30 fully synthetic they charge you for at a service.
If you don't notice the oil level rising it can find itself making its way into the cylinders, allowing the engine to rev out beyond the rev line only stopping when it explodes.
What an excellent design!!
For whatever reason, if the DPF cannot regen or the engine is turned off during a regen (quite feasible as it can take up to half an hour!) then the extra diesel is dumped into the sump. Hence these Mazdas have an "X" on the dipstick about an inch ABOVE the full mark, when the oil gets to this level it needs draining out and changing.
I'm not sure on the lubrication properties of diesel, but I'm fairly certain they aren't a patch on the Dexellia 5w30 fully synthetic they charge you for at a service.
If you don't notice the oil level rising it can find itself making its way into the cylinders, allowing the engine to rev out beyond the rev line only stopping when it explodes.
What an excellent design!!
From the OP
It's not usually necessary to change the oil every time a regen is triggered by a Service tool, but if there have been regen issues it would be very prudent to change the oil!
eltax91 said:
The fault codes are reading as o2 and dpf temperature sensor faults.
Presumably these sensors (Lambda/Hego & Exhaust Gas Temp) have actually been checked, wiring, connectors and actual sensors, it could just be that the diagnostic fault codes are trying to identify a specific fault. Errors with these would leave the car struggling to regen.It's not usually necessary to change the oil every time a regen is triggered by a Service tool, but if there have been regen issues it would be very prudent to change the oil!
v8guinness said:
Presumably these sensors (Lambda/Hego & Exhaust Gas Temp) have actually been checked, wiring, connectors and actual sensors, it could just be that the diagnostic fault codes are trying to identify a specific fault. Errors with these would leave the car struggling to regen.
It's not usually necessary to change the oil every time a regen is triggered by a Service tool, but if there have been regen issues it would be very prudent to change the oil!
The garage is going to test the centres this week and see if they need replacing. So I maybe out of the woods with a working car.It's not usually necessary to change the oil every time a regen is triggered by a Service tool, but if there have been regen issues it would be very prudent to change the oil!
I would be interested to know more about how I might NOT be able to delete the warnings using diagnostics kit, if anyone know more detail.
windy1 said:
Get the pipes on the DPF that go to the pressure sensors cleaned of carbon deposits. If they are blocked the sensors will read incorrectly and force the regen mode to activate a lot. Its only a matter of some basic maintenance i.e cleaning to fix the problem.
Yes have a possible fix for symptoms these videos!! Very informative material was found here on a fix
some variations to parameters but basically the same procedure for other manufacturers that have DPF filters fitted with pressure sensors
DPF FIX PART 1 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QMf4m946aKA
DPF FIX PART 2 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TXLZEG6It8o
nottyash said:
Its people who dont do the milage that causes problems. So buying one if you drive 3 miles to work is just plain stupid.
I dont have any problems doing 40 miles a day.
And I was doing 100 miles a day when I owned the car that started this thread, the dpf was still st....I dont have any problems doing 40 miles a day.
liner33 said:
jbi said:
Will never own a modern diesel.... EVER
Sorry to hear it OP
You will probably have to eventually , Ive done over 130k in dpf equipped diesels in the last 5 years without significant issue , if it did fail I'd remove it , no more of an issue than a dual mass flywheel imoSorry to hear it OP
Happy with the ancient indirect injection diesel in the land rover and will just keep rebuilding it when it wears out.
As for my car... petrol suits me fine thanks
liner33 said:
Stuart J said:
Ive heard rumour that visual inspection for DPF's on cars that should have them will form part of the MOT shortly, Anyone removing the DPf & fitting a by pass pipe ought to check this.
More than a rumour , cats are required irrespective of emissions next year with dpf's added some time later , although i expect those with "gutted" dpfs will be ok I've got a 123d daily and if the dpf gave issues I'd get it removed and the car remapped, but may do that anyway. Is this dpf mot thingy rumour similar to the aftermarket hid 'law'? Certainly a lot about if they should be failing mot's
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