RE: PH Fleet Update: Ford Puma
Discussion
tomoleeds said:
i buy and sell cars so driven 90% of cars,did not mean to be harsh, (sorry !) but dont like the dash with it being same as fiesta,prefer the focus for that sort of money,much nicer inside,and wont rust (as much)
Fair enough - I have a soft spot for Fiestas ,so it bothers me not one jot 
. But I love, love, love, the way it drives. Even in comparison with some of the uber-exotic stuff foolish people let me have a go in the Puma still puts a smile on my faceKitchski said:
The Thunder alloys - look like Fiesta ph2 Zetec S alloys, but in fact aren't. They're identical in design, but use a different offset. They're pretty rare and nigh-on impossible to buy from Ford anymore. Only the Puma Thunder was fitted with them.
You live and learn I guess (Note to self: do not damage alloys)Kitchski said:
Cambelt's the other thing as mentioned. 100k/10 years is the interval. They do snap and when they do, they make a nice mess On the plus side, they're not too bad to change, even with the floating crank design.
No no no no NO! On the plus side, they're not too bad to change, even with the floating crank design.It used to be, but Ford changed the interval to 60k miles or 5 years. Don't skimp on this. Make sure the tensioners are done too, make sure it's the proper Gates kit, and make sure it's done properly or else you are looking at bent valves and a top end rebuild.
Edited by NiceCupOfTea on Wednesday 2nd November 19:38
NiceCupOfTea said:
Kitchski said:
Cambelt's the other thing as mentioned. 100k/10 years is the interval. They do snap and when they do, they make a nice mess On the plus side, they're not too bad to change, even with the floating crank design.
No no no no NO! On the plus side, they're not too bad to change, even with the floating crank design.It used to be, but Ford changed the interval to 60k miles or 5 years. Don't skimp on this. Make sure the tensioners are done to, make sure it's the proper Gates kit, and make sure it's done properly or else you are looking at bent valves and a top end rebuild.
They didn't even get round to updating us when I worked in the parts dept about it then either, as all our lit still said 100k miles. Seemed a bit of a lengthy interval to me, but then I did have a Zetec S once which had done 123k with no record of a belt-change. I sold it, advised they change the belt. They didn't. Yup, it snapped.
Doesn't matter on the new Zetec S though, they use PLASTIC cam pulleys. They'll shatter long before the belt snaps. And when they do shatter, the replacements are metal. If I didn't know better I'd suggest they're protecting their future there! In fact there are many reasons why I wouldn't buy a Ford-powered car these days, I'd have to 'make do' with a Focus RS
I had a Puma. Silver R reg 1.7 with circa 100K on the clock. I ended up calling it the Silver Sow. It was a fairly nice steer, but the arches went, the motor started to worry me a lot, using oil, dropped power now and again, and I got shot fairly quick and replaced with a smashing Alfa GTV. I did get fed up with everyone saying I had a girls car too. Didn't matter how much I protested. I've had a couple of MX-5's that I got similar comments about but never let those bother me as I loved them MX'5's to bits. The Puma never grabbed me really I guess.
not sure if its already been mentioned but the only sure way to get rid of the rust is to chop out and replace the metal, you cant actually buy a repair panel but if you get 2 pug 206 front wings there a perfect match.. o/s/f wing fits n/s/r quater and n/s/f fits o/s/r thats what i had done on mine, also, take the arch liners out and cut about an inch away from the edge that meets the bodywork. This means the liner doesnt touch the bodywork stopping all the water and road salt from rotting the bodywork.
also underseal the arches and your puma will remain rust free for years to come!!
also underseal the arches and your puma will remain rust free for years to come!!
I've bought a V reg 1.7. It really is a fantastic little car. The amount of kit these come with is pretty good, the heated front screen is an awesome bit of kit
The rear arches, which I've read on here: http://www.pumapeople.com/forum/index.php can be fixed by cutting out Peugeot 106 front arches for a repair section.
I'd be interested to know which Mondeo Calipers to go for, ST220, 1.8TD??
The rear arches, which I've read on here: http://www.pumapeople.com/forum/index.php can be fixed by cutting out Peugeot 106 front arches for a repair section.
I'd be interested to know which Mondeo Calipers to go for, ST220, 1.8TD??
Kitchski said:
NiceCupOfTea said:
Kitchski said:
Cambelt's the other thing as mentioned. 100k/10 years is the interval. They do snap and when they do, they make a nice mess On the plus side, they're not too bad to change, even with the floating crank design.
No no no no NO! On the plus side, they're not too bad to change, even with the floating crank design.It used to be, but Ford changed the interval to 60k miles or 5 years. Don't skimp on this. Make sure the tensioners are done to, make sure it's the proper Gates kit, and make sure it's done properly or else you are looking at bent valves and a top end rebuild.
They didn't even get round to updating us when I worked in the parts dept about it then either, as all our lit still said 100k miles. Seemed a bit of a lengthy interval to me, but then I did have a Zetec S once which had done 123k with no record of a belt-change. I sold it, advised they change the belt. They didn't. Yup, it snapped.
Doesn't matter on the new Zetec S though, they use PLASTIC cam pulleys. They'll shatter long before the belt snaps. And when they do shatter, the replacements are metal. If I didn't know better I'd suggest they're protecting their future there! In fact there are many reasons why I wouldn't buy a Ford-powered car these days, I'd have to 'make do' with a Focus RS
It's in the Wiki on PP but it's not letting me log in and you can't view anything on there without registering for some reason.
Mondeo Mk3 Calipers are ok, but you really need the master cylinder and servo from an early Puma otherwise the brakes will feel crap but won't fade. ST170 calipers work better as the discs are a touch too thin for the Mondeo calipers. I warped the discs with Mondeo calipers but no problem with ST170's.
I spent loads of time and effort on mine, best bet it don't cock about with it, leave it as standard. In reality they are difficult to improve upon.
Sold it to my mum and still drive it now and again, steering and gearchange are much better than my Clio 197, but visibility and access are crap.
Overall for the money they go for nowadays, top value.
As mentioned, get over to Pumapeople for lots of useful information, there is an excellent Wiki.
I spent loads of time and effort on mine, best bet it don't cock about with it, leave it as standard. In reality they are difficult to improve upon.
Sold it to my mum and still drive it now and again, steering and gearchange are much better than my Clio 197, but visibility and access are crap.
Overall for the money they go for nowadays, top value.
As mentioned, get over to Pumapeople for lots of useful information, there is an excellent Wiki.
Good to read your write up. I obtained a Puma with the same miles recently for free
Brief journal here, not done much with it yet.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=105...
Brief journal here, not done much with it yet.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=105...
Have had a Puma since May this year and all round great car - bubbles in coolant sounds like heater control valve on the way out or thermostat/housing which are really the only (and fairly cheapish to fix) problems I have had with it (touch wood) so far - rusty arches are very common - depends on the overall value of the car - i guess a good few hundred a side to fix pretty well but it will always come back! If its a keeper it may be worth it. I had a 55AMG before so to some degree it was a bit of a culture shock but it steers and does most things better than many exotics I've owed or driven. Crashy front suspension is a bit hard on the teeth (unless your a dentist) but you get used to it and avoiding or certainly trying too avoid pot holes/drain covers/sleeping policemen etc which is difficult if you live in West London like me!
Drove a Puma 1.7 at a Ford do based in Bradford on Avon. Was expecting a Tigra-alike and ended up very surprised. I've driven many cars in my life and the Puma is still in the top 5; I find it easy to overlook the Fiesta dash and rate the looks (great from any angle, particularly on launch-spec wheels), accessible performance and lively handling. I put it in the same boat as the MX-5 (it's easy to take the p!ss, but when why you get behind the wheel, you understand it and how).
IMHO in the current financial & eco climate we need more cars of this ilk - good looking, affordable to buy and run, and providing kicks at sane speeds. Ford are you listening?
Another great modern Ford, and as others have said destined to be a bargain classic.
IMHO in the current financial & eco climate we need more cars of this ilk - good looking, affordable to buy and run, and providing kicks at sane speeds. Ford are you listening?
Another great modern Ford, and as others have said destined to be a bargain classic.
My first car was an R reg green 1.4 - R261 RRS where are you now? I still miss her. That little 1.4 was apparently designed by Yamaha - smooth and sweet all the way to the red line!
The heated windscreen was a real bonus but the metal gear knob would get very cold in the midst of a NE Scotland winter.
Ahh, the memories.
Stu
The heated windscreen was a real bonus but the metal gear knob would get very cold in the midst of a NE Scotland winter.
Ahh, the memories.
Stu
Adz The Rat said:
I quite fancy a 1.7 Puma as a cheap throw about toy.
We had a Thunder edition for sale at work a while ago, really liked it but it was bright yellow, don't think I could have lived with that.
Not enough yellow cars around We had a Thunder edition for sale at work a while ago, really liked it but it was bright yellow, don't think I could have lived with that.
I was aimlessly looking at Caymans on Autotrader last night and came away thoroughly depressed.
All but about 3 (of 200 or so) were black (ok), grey (mmmmm) or resale silver (ok, I know it's a traditional Porsche colour, but borrrrriinnnng
) and two of those were that cheap red Porsche do to make it really clear you were too mean to spring for the extra cost of a metallic paint If I was having to buy a car right now, I'd seriously consider a Puma 1.7 for a Grand - I'd do the brake upgrade and drop the suspension (although I'd worry it might ruin the handling...) and I'd want a blue, green or yellow one
To be honest though, having looked around at a number of 1.4s recently, I wouldn't spend that much on car with as much rust as Riggers...
M
PS I think only the 1.7 had Yamaha input (happy to be corrected though!)
FlashBastd said:
Mondeo Mk3 Calipers are ok, but you really need the master cylinder and servo from an early Puma otherwise the brakes will feel crap but won't fade. ST170 calipers work better as the discs are a touch too thin for the Mondeo calipers. I warped the discs with Mondeo calipers but no problem with ST170's.
I spent loads of time and effort on mine, best bet it don't cock about with it, leave it as standard. In reality they are difficult to improve upon.
Sold it to my mum and still drive it now and again, steering and gearchange are much better than my Clio 197, but visibility and access are crap.
Overall for the money they go for nowadays, top value.
As mentioned, get over to Pumapeople for lots of useful information, there is an excellent Wiki.
Ford calipers are much of a muchness, you are splitting hairs. And I have a 99 model (only 80k and virtually no arch bubbles - easy fix anyway - if you like the car and just want to run a run it), no need to change servo or master cylinder (on mine at least).I spent loads of time and effort on mine, best bet it don't cock about with it, leave it as standard. In reality they are difficult to improve upon.
Sold it to my mum and still drive it now and again, steering and gearchange are much better than my Clio 197, but visibility and access are crap.
Overall for the money they go for nowadays, top value.
As mentioned, get over to Pumapeople for lots of useful information, there is an excellent Wiki.
I can't see how you could say they are ok as std, as the braking is just Terrible.
Mega cars with very few tweeks. I have other stuff when I want to go stupidly quick, but not much point on the public roads now a days.
Japcarnut said:
Think there is even some rust stopping grease stuff on the market (from aviation industry, oh and motorcyclistas use it too).
ACF50. Brilliant stuff. Spray it up in to the arches and it'll keep the rust in check. It's not cheap at £15 a can, but it dose the job. I use it on my bike in winter. One coat at the first sign of frost and then one 6 weeks after gets me through. My bike looks like crap at the end of winter as it hasn't been washed for months, but with a bit of work to clear the caked on mud it comes up nice and clean (I think I'll get it valeted at the end of winter this year so soneone else dose the work). On a bike it also has the fun side effect of billowing smoke for the first 20 miles whilst it burns off the hot areas.I also use it on my 11 year old Clio with a rusty arch. Much worse than that, but then the car is only worth £500, so not realy worth fixing. That and the rest of the car looks like crap with all the dings and scrapes from a past life in the center of Manchester. It keeps it in check though.
Gassing Station | General Gassing | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff