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wolf1

2,333 posts

119 months

[news] 
Saturday 17th March 2012 quote quote all
OP those going on about golden coloured oil are talking garbage. it's a diesel and the only time it's ever had golden coloured oil is when it was first built and hadn't been started. The oil will always go black very rapidly in a diesel engine. You'll get a cheap sump from a breakers yard for a lot less than new and it's an easy job to change.

The Spruce goose

4,790 posts

64 months

[news] 
Saturday 17th March 2012 quote quote all
wolf1 said:
OP those going on about golden coloured oil are talking garbage. it's a diesel and the only time it's ever had golden coloured oil is when it was first built and hadn't been started. The oil will always go black very rapidly in a diesel engine. You'll get a cheap sump from a breakers yard for a lot less than new and it's an easy job to change.
I've had a few turbo diesel and they do go black over a few miles but from what the op said the oil should have been flushed.

moronic

Original Poster:

177 posts

24 months

[news] 
Sunday 18th March 2012 quote quote all
Right - today I got to looking at the the fan.

Stripped out the glovebox, took out all the heater resistors etc... Took out the fan. Then connected the fan to the 12v car battery to see if that was the culprit.

It whizzed away happily. So I then proceeded to use a multimeter to see what the voltage was across the connections to the fan... And suprisingly it was around 12v... (same potential difference as battery). And EVERYTHING just worked. I'm guessing that there was just a lose connection.

So in the end, the only listed fault on the car required no parts, and very few tools and even a moron like me could fix it!!!

Pretty happy to have hot and cold air in the car, driving with steamed up windows or freezing cold at night wasn't exactly fun.

carreauchompeur

10,577 posts

73 months

[news] 
Sunday 18th March 2012 quote quote all
Sounds good, I really help it works out for you!

moronic

Original Poster:

177 posts

24 months

[news] 
Sunday 18th March 2012 quote quote all
Now I just need to work out if changing a summp or the lower ball joint are DIYable?
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blaineuk

2,311 posts

116 months

[news] 
Sunday 18th March 2012 quote quote all
Have followed this and if there was a problem with the sump plug they would have changed it, I would leave it until the next oil change unless it is leaking.

moronic

Original Poster:

177 posts

24 months

[news] 
Sunday 18th March 2012 quote quote all
blaineuk said:
Have followed this and if there was a problem with the sump plug they would have changed it, I would leave it until the next oil change unless it is leaking.
Mate they have written it requires urgent attention. I'm going to take it to a garage tomorrow and get them to put it on ramps and tell me how terminal it is.

Edited by moronic on Sunday 18th March 20:02

carreauchompeur

10,577 posts

73 months

[news] 
Sunday 18th March 2012 quote quote all
moronic said:
Mate they have written it requires urgent attention. I'm going to take it to a grave tomorrow and get them to put it on ramps and tell me how terminal it is.
Spooky rofl

moronic

Original Poster:

177 posts

24 months

[news] 
Sunday 18th March 2012 quote quote all
carreauchompeur said:
Spooky rofl
Lol iPad typo

mwcr85

142 posts

18 months

[news] 
Sunday 18th March 2012 quote quote all
moronic said:
Now I just need to work out if changing a summp or the lower ball joint are DIYable?
Sump is just a case of removing the bolts holding it in, need to make sure that all the old gasket is removed, and tighten the bolts back up with a torque wrench to avoid shearing one..

Not sure about the ball joints, I think the strut and hub carrier can be separated, which is a big advantage! Read up on them and give yourself plenty of time to change them, i.e. a whole weekend.

moronic

Original Poster:

177 posts

24 months

[news] 
Sunday 18th March 2012 quote quote all
mwcr85 said:
Sump is just a case of removing the bolts holding it in, need to make sure that all the old gasket is removed, and tighten the bolts back up with a torque wrench to avoid shearing one..

Not sure about the ball joints, I think the strut and hub carrier can be separated, which is a big advantage! Read up on them and give yourself plenty of time to change them, i.e. a whole weekend.
I've got the Renault workshop manual. And I'm ordering the Haynes manual tonight. According to the Renault manual, you have to take the bumper off and loads and loads of other parts to fix the sump. And Renault say its a 3 hour job.

mwcr85

142 posts

18 months

[news] 
Sunday 18th March 2012 quote quote all
Yes but once you have got to the sump it is a simple case of draining oil, unbolting, cleaning and refitting. It will take much more than book time if you are doing it on your back, book times are hard enough to achieve in a fully kitted workshop.

Haynes are a good start, quite often lack detail though. Should tell you what tools you need though.

Ali Chappussy

181 posts

14 months

[news] 
Tuesday 20th March 2012 quote quote all
Just read this from start to finish. What a salutory tale this is for anyone who knows squat about cars.

It just reinforces what I've always said, take someone with you when you buy a car if you know bugger all about them.

I hope this works out for you Moronic.
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