Changing discs and pads today - what do I really need?

Changing discs and pads today - what do I really need?

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OdramaSwimLaden

1,971 posts

170 months

Wednesday 20th June 2012
quotequote all
y2blade said:
.blue said:
Ok so the update you've all been waiting for...

Last night... one of the neighbours turned up with a G Clamp so that made the job well easy. This was around 9 I think so I didn't bother with the second wheel.

I had my motorcycle theory test this morning but am now ready to get back on the second front wheel.

PH'ers you've all been amazing smile The other front wheel should be (relatively) a walk in the park, but we'll see.
Good luck

How did the Theory test go?
A common sense test; what could possibly go wrong??!!

.blue

Original Poster:

726 posts

181 months

Wednesday 20th June 2012
quotequote all
Test went fine, the HPT was almost enjoyable rolleyes
After struggling with a caliper bolt for an hour, the bracket is finally off. Back at that troublesome stage from yesterday - getting the old disc off.

Time to do some press ups and become angry. punch

.blue

Original Poster:

726 posts

181 months

Wednesday 20th June 2012
quotequote all
Snotrag/Simon, thanks very much for your offer. Unfortunately I'm the wrong side of the country from you! I've realised how lucky I am to have several petrol head neighbours who drop by every now and then - I don't know what would have happened without them.

When you were talking about the bolt to crack the disc off, this makes sense - there was a bolt shape, threaded hole in the discs. I maanged to take one off without the bolt yesterday. I don't have the 5mm? bolt required for it so plan to do the same again.

It's surprising that none of the guides (I'm using Haynes, Red MX-5 site and one I found as a PDF on google) mention this retaining bolt.

Prof Prolapse

16,160 posts

191 months

Wednesday 20th June 2012
quotequote all
.blue said:
It's surprising that none of the guides (I'm using Haynes, Red MX-5 site and one I found as a PDF on google) mention this retaining bolt.
Welcome to the world of DIY mechanics.

I've still got the words "devise a method of removing the bolt" highlighted in my Haynes manual for a golf mk2.



.blue

Original Poster:

726 posts

181 months

Wednesday 20th June 2012
quotequote all
What do you guys use on the metal pin of the caliper?

I'm pretty sure one guide said lithium grease but several other websites say that this damages the rubber and some other type of grease should be used.

What's the experienced verdict?

.blue

Original Poster:

726 posts

181 months

Wednesday 20th June 2012
quotequote all
Fronts done! A brief test drive resulted in weaker than before brakes, but I think that's just part of the bedding in process.


I started on one of the rears before the downpour. Got as far as putting on the new disc and pads, but then hit a road block for the last hour:

The caliper doesn't quite fit over the pads and disc, as in the photo. The bottom part seems to be getting stuck somewhere so the hole for the metal bolt that goes through the main caliper and the caliper bracket doesn't line up.

I've sacrificed both of the anti-squeal shims on the pads to reduce the thickness but to no avail. I've loosened the 4mm hex screw as far as possible. If I try to further loosen it, the little cog type thing comes out.

So, where am I going wrong?


busta

4,504 posts

234 months

Wednesday 20th June 2012
quotequote all
.blue said:
Fronts done! A brief test drive resulted in weaker than before brakes, but I think that's just part of the bedding in process.


I started on one of the rears before the downpour. Got as far as putting on the new disc and pads, but then hit a road block for the last hour:

The caliper doesn't quite fit over the pads and disc, as in the photo. The bottom part seems to be getting stuck somewhere so the hole for the metal bolt that goes through the main caliper and the caliper bracket doesn't line up.

I've sacrificed both of the anti-squeal shims on the pads to reduce the thickness but to no avail. I've loosened the 4mm hex screw as far as possible. If I try to further loosen it, the little cog type thing comes out.

So, where am I going wrong?

The outside pad is upside down is where you're going wrong!

Justin Cyder

12,624 posts

150 months

Wednesday 20th June 2012
quotequote all
hehe Google a piccy or two of mx5 rear brakes.

Today's lesson: Always remember where the bits go before you strip them out!

.blue

Original Poster:

726 posts

181 months

Wednesday 20th June 2012
quotequote all
Justin/busta: Ugh, you're right! The worst thing is that the pad on the other side was the right way around :S

I've corrected it now and have managed to get the caliper over with one shim on the outer pad.

The thing is that the brake discs can not spin because the brake pads are on so tightly. The caliper piston is as loose as possible (i.e. unscrewing the 4mm hex bolt causes the little adjustment thing to come out).

Where to from here?

Edited by .blue on Wednesday 20th June 20:49

.blue

Original Poster:

726 posts

181 months

Wednesday 20th June 2012
quotequote all
doogz said:
The handbrake is off yeah? I'm impressed you manage to slide the caliper and pads back on, yet it's that tight you can't turn it!
Yep it's off. The caliper did take some fist hammering to get back into place. There's a little bit of play in the disc but not enough for it to turn any meaningful amount.

All this just as my confidence was starting to build up after the fronts!

TVR MAN

1,038 posts

223 months

Wednesday 20th June 2012
quotequote all
I love this thread.

I tried removing calipers recently on my VX220 and my mum's MX5 and I didn't manage either.

I completely empathise with every single issue/misunderstanding you have had!

.blue

Original Poster:

726 posts

181 months

Wednesday 20th June 2012
quotequote all
doogz said:
Is it in gear? I really cant see how you could put the calliper and pads back on if they were that tight.
Yep it's in reverse on the advice of one of the neighbours. Is that an issue?

Justin Cyder

12,624 posts

150 months

Wednesday 20th June 2012
quotequote all
It's a rwd car. You have got the front wheels chocked so it can't roll off the axle stands haven't you?

.blue

Original Poster:

726 posts

181 months

Wednesday 20th June 2012
quotequote all
TVR MAN: Ha, glad I'm not the only one who's had these kinds of questions smile Interesting progression: I'm actually thinking about what next even though I've had the car for just a few months! I love it and won't be changing it for a while but always good to get the ball of thoughts rolling early. VX220 is on the cards as is the 350Z. Though I might need practicality too so Focus ST/Mazda 3 MPS etc. are potentials too. What else did you consider before buying the VX?

Doogz/Justin: yes the car is chocked so I'll try taking it out of gear tomorrow and giving it a go. Hopefully that will do the trick. I'm apprehensive of trying in the rain and dark and I've just changed into dry clothes.

Edited by .blue on Wednesday 20th June 22:07

TROOPER88

1,767 posts

180 months

Wednesday 20th June 2012
quotequote all
With the handbrake off and the car not in gear the disc could still be hard to turn.
Do not worry about it but put the wheel back on. You will find that since you have more to grab hold of (the tyre) it will prob just about turn.

Once you have put the car on the ground and pumped the brakes a few times the pistons should be in the correct positions allowing the wheels to turn freely.

.blue

Original Poster:

726 posts

181 months

Thursday 21st June 2012
quotequote all
TROOPER88 said:
With the handbrake off and the car not in gear the disc could still be hard to turn.
Do not worry about it but put the wheel back on. You will find that since you have more to grab hold of (the tyre) it will prob just about turn.

Once you have put the car on the ground and pumped the brakes a few times the pistons should be in the correct positions allowing the wheels to turn freely.
Trooper I followed your advice and with the wheel on it does indeed turn fully - although with a lot of resistance.

Now I haven't replaced the passenger side rear wheel brakes just yet. Apparently, it wouldn't be good to pump the brake pedal now because this would force more hydraulic brake fluid to the side with the old brakes (as hte pads are thinner) and cause a bit of an imbalance. Is this true?

I want to find a way to get that caliper adjusted because I don't think the car will be able to move given how tightly it's fitted on.

I guess pumping the brakes might fix this but should I replace brakes on the other side rear before I do this or is it ok to do with one side new brakes/one side old brakes?

Justin Cyder

12,624 posts

150 months

Thursday 21st June 2012
quotequote all
You have an opportunity now. Since you have reassembled one side incorrectly but haven't touched the other, use the side you haven't done as a visual reference to check the side you have done to make sure you get it right.

.blue

Original Poster:

726 posts

181 months

Thursday 21st June 2012
quotequote all
doogz said:
If you can turn it by hand, your engine and gearbox, putting a few hundred pound feet of torque through it, will turn it just fine, don't worry about that.
Nicely put!


As Justin suggested, I took the wheel off again to have a look at both sides. To my untrained eye the side I've just done seems to be right. Photos of done side (with yellow brake pads and new disc) and old side (not yet touched) below.

Done:


Old:

Justin Cyder

12,624 posts

150 months

Thursday 21st June 2012
quotequote all
Looks like you're on your way. One more side to go. Slowest brake overhaul ever! hehe

TROOPER88

1,767 posts

180 months

Thursday 21st June 2012
quotequote all
Dont worry about the resistance you are feeling.
As I said just do the brakes and drive it around the block.

The resistance is because the piston is not back far enough but will reset once used.