RE: PH Fleet: BMW M5 (E28)
Discussion
This is easy. Get the best body shell you can. Give it to metal basher (opps, sorry guys ) to correct any faults, put in new vin PLATE. Give to paint man. Return as new body shell to garage. Strip of all mechanical bits, trim and wiring from crash car. Re-furbish all mechanical bits and re-fit. Ditto trim. Ditto electrics. Enjoy virtually new E28 M5 !! Simples.
Fond memories of this car , which is very similar to my other E28 M5 #066 :
As Chris mentions , getting decent spares for these rare hand built beauties is very costly , so I'd recommend keeping this as a parts bin in a bid to maintain the condition of his original M5 ....... much to my dismay , as it's a real shame to see another go to ruin !
D
As Chris mentions , getting decent spares for these rare hand built beauties is very costly , so I'd recommend keeping this as a parts bin in a bid to maintain the condition of his original M5 ....... much to my dismay , as it's a real shame to see another go to ruin !
D
MycroftWard said:
If your in jobsworth mode you could probably argue that replacing a body shell is illegal but in reality, if you've replaced like with like there is practically no difference, it's just metal.
It's common for classics to be re-shelled, there's cars out there that have been re-shelled and re-engined multiple times. Ship of theseus, etc.
It is 100% legal to exchange a bodyshell. However, the vehicle loses its identity UNLESS the replacement bodyshell is a NEW one from a manufacturer or dealer. If you use a 2nd hand shell, then you have to get an IVA or SVA and will be issued a Q plate.It's common for classics to be re-shelled, there's cars out there that have been re-shelled and re-engined multiple times. Ship of theseus, etc.
This from the DVLA's leaflet on the matter:
DVLA said:
To keep the original registration number:
Cars and light vans must use:
n the original unaltered chassis or unaltered monocoque
bodyshell (that is, the body and chassis as one unit);
or
n a new chassis or monocoque bodyshell of the same
specification as the original. A receipt from the dealer
or manufacturer is required.
AND
the vehicle must have two other major components
– as listed below – from the original vehicle.
n Suspension (front and back)
n Axles (both)
n Transmission
n Steering assembly
n Engine
If a second-hand chassis or monocoque bodyshell is
used, the vehicle must have Individual Vehicle Approval
(IVA) or Single Vehicle Approval (SVA) (see section 11). A
‘Q’ registration number will then be issued (see section 7).
Cars and light vans must use:
n the original unaltered chassis or unaltered monocoque
bodyshell (that is, the body and chassis as one unit);
or
n a new chassis or monocoque bodyshell of the same
specification as the original. A receipt from the dealer
or manufacturer is required.
AND
the vehicle must have two other major components
– as listed below – from the original vehicle.
n Suspension (front and back)
n Axles (both)
n Transmission
n Steering assembly
n Engine
If a second-hand chassis or monocoque bodyshell is
used, the vehicle must have Individual Vehicle Approval
(IVA) or Single Vehicle Approval (SVA) (see section 11). A
‘Q’ registration number will then be issued (see section 7).
AdeV said:
If you use a 2nd hand shell, then you have to get an IVA or SVA and will be issued a Q plate.
By the letter of the law you are correct, however the practical reality is somewhat different. What amount of original metal do you have to retain to main a body shell's identity? You could replace an entire shell with repair panels over time yet retain the original identity, Trigger's broom and all that. I'd say a shell sized "repair panel" would be a suitable fix for this car, it wouldn't be a re-shell unless you wanted to call it that.
How would you discern the difference if the new metal is identical to the previous? The law is there to prevent ringers not to prevent classic car restoration.
Edited by MycroftWard on Wednesday 15th August 16:09
MycroftWard said:
AdeV said:
If you use a 2nd hand shell, then you have to get an IVA or SVA and will be issued a Q plate.
By the letter of the law you are correct, however the practical reality is somewhat different. What amount of original metal do you have to retain to main a body shell's identity? You could replace an entire shell with repair panels over time yet retain the original identity, Trigger's broom and all that. I'd say a shell sized "repair panel" would be a suitable fix for this car, it wouldn't be a re-shell unless you wanted to call it that.
How would you discern the difference if the new metal is identical to the previous? The law is there to prevent ringers not to prevent classic car restoration.
I say - avoid the problem, stick all the M5 bits in a straight shell, add a rollcage, and race the bugger.
I owned D547YWV from 110k to 180k we had some amazing times together and it's the best car I've ever owned (jointly with my Manta rally car).
I sold it for £5k in 2003 and bought a 1980 Porsche 930 (turbo) which quickly became the worst car I've ever owned.
I couldn't wait to get rid of it and sold it for £10k within a year in 2004.
Just seen the Porsche advertised (yes, this very one)!
http://www.jttautos.co.uk/used-porsche-911-new-mal...
Off to buy something else to play with at the weekend!
I sold it for £5k in 2003 and bought a 1980 Porsche 930 (turbo) which quickly became the worst car I've ever owned.
I couldn't wait to get rid of it and sold it for £10k within a year in 2004.
Just seen the Porsche advertised (yes, this very one)!
http://www.jttautos.co.uk/used-porsche-911-new-mal...
Off to buy something else to play with at the weekend!
Gassing Station | General Gassing | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff