So expensive engine oil really does work.

So expensive engine oil really does work.

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Billy_rfc

Original Poster:

587 posts

256 months

Tuesday 21st August 2012
quotequote all
Just reading through a review of Millers nanodrive oil in one of my car mags, and they make some big claim about it. At £70 for 5 litres it would need to be! So they use a focus st as a test car and start of with halfords oil as a control, do three dyno runs and make sure everything is consistent. Next comes the Millers oil, and feck me! At 2750rpm they get 44lb/ft more torque! And over 20bhp extra! Across the rev range, gains are between 10-20bhp from 2k and 41/2k.

Wow.

Fartgalen

6,640 posts

208 months

Tuesday 21st August 2012
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On 5 litres ?!?!...shheeeit. I'm putting 20 litres in mine then !

Dr Doofenshmirtz

15,246 posts

201 months

Tuesday 21st August 2012
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Hmmmm...really?

Steamer

13,863 posts

214 months

Tuesday 21st August 2012
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do we have a smilie for 'one eyebrow raised in suspicion'?

Jimmy No Hands

5,011 posts

157 months

Tuesday 21st August 2012
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They're five minutes from me, I'm off to ask for a sample..

Dr Doofenshmirtz

15,246 posts

201 months

Tuesday 21st August 2012
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Steamer said:
do we have a smilie for 'one eye brow raised in suspicion'?
This one... scratchchin

ohtari

805 posts

145 months

Tuesday 21st August 2012
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Steamer said:
do we have a smilie for 'one eyebrow raised in suspicion'?
scratchchin or irked

McSam

6,753 posts

176 months

Tuesday 21st August 2012
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So it was a colder day when they tested the Millers one, interesting findings.

Whole-vehicle dynos are so hilariously inconsistent no such testing is very valid..

Petrolhead_Rich

4,659 posts

193 months

Tuesday 21st August 2012
quotequote all
Billy_rfc said:
Just reading through a review of Millers nanodrive oil in one of my car mags, and they make some big claim about it. At £70 for 5 litres it would need to be! So they use a focus st as a test car and start of with halfords oil as a control, do three dyno runs and make sure everything is consistent. Next comes the Millers oil, and feck me! At 2750rpm they get 44lb/ft more torque! And over 20bhp extra! Across the rev range, gains are between 10-20bhp from 2k and 41/2k.

Wow.
that difference can easily be accounted for in manufacturing differences in the engines, I really dont believe lubrication can give such dramatic performance differences!


McHaggis

50,607 posts

156 months

Tuesday 21st August 2012
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Yet even on their own site they only quote 1.5-5%...

http://www.millersoils.co.uk/nanodrive.asp

Test results speak for themselves, for example;

5% boost in power in a Porsche 911 race engine on a rolling road dyno
1.5% power boost in a Skoda 1.6 rally engine, on an engine test bed
3.8% power gain and 3.5% torque gain in a racing Toyota MR2 Roadster.

I assume the "before" is used oil, the "after" their oil. Also no stats on longevity? I can believe low friction at the cost of time - i.e. have to change every 3k miles.... oil is a complex science, all a matter of trade offs.

Billy_rfc

Original Poster:

587 posts

256 months

Tuesday 21st August 2012
quotequote all
Going by the article, readers car used and all done on the same day. Three runs done every time to make sure results are consistent. Amazing results like.

McHaggis

50,607 posts

156 months

Tuesday 21st August 2012
quotequote all
Billy_rfc said:
Going by the article, readers car used and all done on the same day. Three runs done every time to make sure results are consistent. Amazing results like.
Any link to the article or magazine?

tank slapper

7,949 posts

284 months

Tuesday 21st August 2012
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Petrolhead_Rich said:
I really dont believe lubrication can give such dramatic performance differences!
Lubrication can make a very large difference to friction in an engine, and power used overcoming the friction in bearings can be considerable. The main variables are the operating temperature and the dynamic viscosity of the oil. I would be quite sceptical of claims of massively reduced friction not accounted for by one of those.

Without knowing more about how the test was conducted and what the likely error bounds are (which if it were done on a rolling road are likely to be quite large), I don't think you could call that result significant.

Edited by tank slapper on Tuesday 21st August 23:47

Ray Luxury-Yacht

8,910 posts

217 months

Wednesday 22nd August 2012
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When I was racing Nationals on superbikes, we were always looking for a performance edge - whatever it was.

Silkolene brought out a beta product, 'racing only' oil - it had their 'electrosynth' additive (which helps the oil 'cling' to metal surfaces) and the formulation was 0w /20 - very thin and hence allowing the engine to spin more freely to release more power.

It was expensive, but we dyno - tested it compared to our usual race oil - and we saw another 5bhp and 10 lb/ft of torque - from 0 to 13,000 rpm. In racing terms, a significant gain for just an oil change.

We used it for two racing seasons - and each winter when we did an engine rebuild, there was no greater wear or damage in the motor compared to the other oil. We didn't ever suffer an engine problem or failure either.

So yes, for me, expensive oil really did work.


Billy_rfc

Original Poster:

587 posts

256 months

Wednesday 22nd August 2012
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The article is in Fast ford haggis. Don't think I'm allowed to take a pic and post it upsmile

Globs

13,841 posts

232 months

Wednesday 22nd August 2012
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Ester based oils will always be better - which I guess that is.
The key is getting the best oil thin enough so it still protects the metal but doesn't get in the way.

tank slapper

7,949 posts

284 months

Wednesday 22nd August 2012
quotequote all
Ray Luxury-Yacht said:
When I was racing Nationals on superbikes, we were always looking for a performance edge - whatever it was.

Silkolene brought out a beta product, 'racing only' oil - it had their 'electrosynth' additive (which helps the oil 'cling' to metal surfaces) and the formulation was 0w /20 - very thin and hence allowing the engine to spin more freely to release more power.

It was expensive, but we dyno - tested it compared to our usual race oil - and we saw another 5bhp and 10 lb/ft of torque - from 0 to 13,000 rpm. In racing terms, a significant gain for just an oil change.

We used it for two racing seasons - and each winter when we did an engine rebuild, there was no greater wear or damage in the motor compared to the other oil. We didn't ever suffer an engine problem or failure either.

So yes, for me, expensive oil really did work.
Oil 'clinging' to metal isn't really relevant except perhaps on starting. An engine that is running supplies oil to the bearings under pressure, it doesn't rely on boundary lubrication. Your gain in performance was most likely down to the reduced viscosity rather than any magic ingredients in the oil. Whether there was anything special about the composition that allowed you to use such thin oil while still being able to cope with the forces in the engine is impossible to say. It may be that the engine design was such that you could have used any 0W20 oil and got similar results.

Ray Luxury-Yacht

8,910 posts

217 months

Wednesday 22nd August 2012
quotequote all
tank slapper said:
Ray Luxury-Yacht said:
When I was racing Nationals on superbikes, we were always looking for a performance edge - whatever it was.

Silkolene brought out a beta product, 'racing only' oil - it had their 'electrosynth' additive (which helps the oil 'cling' to metal surfaces) and the formulation was 0w /20 - very thin and hence allowing the engine to spin more freely to release more power.

It was expensive, but we dyno - tested it compared to our usual race oil - and we saw another 5bhp and 10 lb/ft of torque - from 0 to 13,000 rpm. In racing terms, a significant gain for just an oil change.

We used it for two racing seasons - and each winter when we did an engine rebuild, there was no greater wear or damage in the motor compared to the other oil. We didn't ever suffer an engine problem or failure either.

So yes, for me, expensive oil really did work.
Oil 'clinging' to metal isn't really relevant except perhaps on starting. An engine that is running supplies oil to the bearings under pressure, it doesn't rely on boundary lubrication. Your gain in performance was most likely down to the reduced viscosity rather than any magic ingredients in the oil. Whether there was anything special about the composition that allowed you to use such thin oil while still being able to cope with the forces in the engine is impossible to say. It may be that the engine design was such that you could have used any 0W20 oil and got similar results.
Sorry yeah - we understood that the 'cling' factor was good only for cold-start ups, nothing more - as you say, it doesn't affect the working pressure, lubrication, detergent qualites or particle suspension...

It was nice to think that, especially as the oil was reduced to an '0w' viscosity whilst the bikes were sat in the workshop - that there was still a layer of electrostatiaclly charged oil clinging to the mating and load-bearing surfaces, which would be there on start-up (especially as our race engines 'idled' at around 2,000 rpm!)

Who knows though - yeah, maybe using a 'straight 20' non-multigrade oil would have given the same results? But compared to the oil we were using which was either 40 or 50 when hot - this stuff gave us a measureable increase in performance, without any degradation to the race motors.

These were dedicated build race engines too - pretty highly stressed - high comp. pistons, Ti rods and parts, very lumpy cams, high idle and high rev limits. Plus the extra grief of 'polymer shear' from the combined engine and gearbox unit - the pressure of constant-mesh straight cut gears on oil degrades the polymer chains and multigrade abilities quite quickly...but as I said, on strip downs, we had no visible or guage-measured wear from previous seasons with other 10w - 40 race oils.

So, to sum up - it worked for us! thumbup




james280779

1,931 posts

230 months

Wednesday 22nd August 2012
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I just replaced the oil in my old 911 as I wasnt sure what was put in it before. I bought the proper Mobil 1 0-40 ($105) and I can honestly say it runs sooo much better. wish I had done it ages ago

Locke

1,279 posts

185 months

Wednesday 22nd August 2012
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Jimmy No Hands said:
They're five minutes from me, I'm off to ask for a sample..
Is that the place on Rastric Common?