Buying an old Land Rover - For Life
Discussion
smartphone hater said:
Piglet said:
Ahh yes, my wheels are a bit of a problem and OH has had to manufacture wheel nuts for them as they were missing one on each wheel (probably a locking one) when we got it and the nuts are a non standard size.
They are the Ranger alloys that it came on. We've just bought another set of Landy wheels on ebay and potentially we'll swap them over at some point.
I wish I'd known, I've just chucked a load of wheels you could of had. They are the Ranger alloys that it came on. We've just bought another set of Landy wheels on ebay and potentially we'll swap them over at some point.
Piglet said:
Oh no! If anyone has got any they are chucking we could still do with some more as some of OH's are ropey!
I've found you can pick up long wheelbase wheels cheaply enough which look better than short wheel base wheels which I found I couldn't give away.The ones to have though are the forward control wheels with the deeper offset, but they are becoming increasingly rare & therefore expensive. I have a set on my 109 & they do look good.
Piglet said:
Oh no! If anyone has got any they are chucking we could still do with some more as some of OH's are ropey!
They arent very hard to fix at all - shotblast and stove enamel, or for a budget alternative, sand down and paint with rustproof primer and desired paint Far too many slightly rusty but perfectly good wheels are being chucked in favour of better condition ones, which is why there are now no One-Ton wheels (the deep dish ones referred to above) left when they used to be ten a penny6fire said:
To be fair when you see the use they get, I'd steer away from MOD fleet land rovers. Unless you can find an ex RAF L/R that has just chugged around an airfield. The rest of them have a pretty hard life.
I have to disagree, they are also maintained to the nth degree. The one we got from the MOD is 26 years old cost £1200 and although the body has dents from squaddies climbing all over it the chassis and running year look as if they're brand new. Took it all to bits to give it the underseal treatment and actually had to clean the old underseal off before putting the new on. The engine, gearbox and transfer box are all sweet as a nut, it's done 157,000kms and this year off roading in the peaks scampered up anything we put it infront of, often better than the newer ones with big fat tyres and snorkels all over them.
edo said:
Having driven a few, the idea of owning a Defender or Series Landie is a long way off the reality, especially at the budget the OP is considering.
My 1976 Series III was £1500 earlier this year, galvanised chassis, running perfectly, very good bodywork (knackered paintwork) and with a trailer full of bits (including spare roof, gearbox, axles) - bought it off Ebay.£2k is a perfectly do'able for a Series.
mat777 said:
Piglet said:
Oh no! If anyone has got any they are chucking we could still do with some more as some of OH's are ropey!
They arent very hard to fix at all - shotblast and stove enamel, or for a budget alternative, sand down and paint with rustproof primer and desired paint Far too many slightly rusty but perfectly good wheels are being chucked in favour of better condition ones, which is why there are now no One-Ton wheels (the deep dish ones referred to above) left when they used to be ten a pennysmn159 said:
edo said:
Not weight - pads for your elbows.
Sorry, with you now - agreed!
6fire said:
Many will tell you that you must be stopped to change from low ratio to high ratio or the other way around. Not so. The transfer box is just a non synchro gearbox. Double de-clutch, rev match and you can hop between then with no dramas. And it may just save you getting stuck.
Changing from Low to High yes, but going the other way I inevitably find a crunchy thing; could just be me being rubbish though.Not a Series, but definitely scruffy; I paid 2k for this 1989 110 HCPU, it has a galvanised chassis and an ex-disco 200Tdi, so the OP's budget is definitely doable. The doors don't shut right, and the seatbox is thrice patched, but the oily bits all work.
Edited by hidetheelephants on Friday 26th October 19:22
hidetheelephants said:
6fire said:
Many will tell you that you must be stopped to change from low ratio to high ratio or the other way around. Not so. The transfer box is just a non synchro gearbox. Double de-clutch, rev match and you can hop between then with no dramas. And it may just save you getting stuck.
Changing from Low to High yes, but going the other way I inevitably find a crunchy thing; could just be me being rubbish though.
LOL! Nothing personal & I know it's people's own choices & everything, but one of my pet hates in life is checker plate on series LRs. In my mind at least old cars deserve a bit of respect which is why I wouldn't swap my 2 1/4 engine for a V8, I figure if the thing has been happy & lasted 52 years as it came out of the factory then what right have I to make such a drastic change, so I haven't & instead bought a stage 1 which was built with a V8 in it. 
Checker plate just doesn't suit old LRs & looks totally out of place plasted all over them, it doesn't look out of place on Defenders though & can even enhance the look if done with a modicum of decorum.
Just my opinion & no offence intended.
Checker plate just doesn't suit old LRs & looks totally out of place plasted all over them, it doesn't look out of place on Defenders though & can even enhance the look if done with a modicum of decorum.
Just my opinion & no offence intended.
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