Blanking the EGR Valve....?
Discussion
I most probably to a little test on my car, by blanking off the egr and see how it performs for a week or so. If I don't see any change, then I will fit the egr valve back on.
Thanks for all your quick and efficient replies, much appreciated
On the other hand, I have heard you can increase your stock turbo power/performance by 10% or 15%. This is what I was planning to do on my previous car, but I didn't do it in the end, as know one really knew if it could be done.
Has anyone come across this before?
Thanks for all your quick and efficient replies, much appreciated
On the other hand, I have heard you can increase your stock turbo power/performance by 10% or 15%. This is what I was planning to do on my previous car, but I didn't do it in the end, as know one really knew if it could be done.
Has anyone come across this before?
I have an EU3 emission spec 320d 150ps. When I removed the EGR for cleaning I realised that this was not a good thing as 50% of the cross sectional area was blocked with sooty crud. I cleaned it anyway and refitted it. Noticed a little more free revving over the last 500rpm. I then disconnected and plugged the EGR control vacuum line. The engine became a little more responsive and no ECU light (EU3).
I have since replaced the valve with a replacement straight through pipe and upon subsequent inspection there is no crud build up on the replacement pipe.
Talking from experience, the removal of EGR on my engine brought an improvement in drivivability and slightly better economy 1-2mpg.
If you want to improve the performance, I suggest the above + a remap + de-cat. De-cat in particular brought an increase in drivabiility with the turbo spooling up 2-300rpm earlier.
I have since replaced the valve with a replacement straight through pipe and upon subsequent inspection there is no crud build up on the replacement pipe.
Talking from experience, the removal of EGR on my engine brought an improvement in drivivability and slightly better economy 1-2mpg.
If you want to improve the performance, I suggest the above + a remap + de-cat. De-cat in particular brought an increase in drivabiility with the turbo spooling up 2-300rpm earlier.
stevesingo said:
I have an EU3 emission spec 320d 150ps. When I removed the EGR for cleaning I realised that this was not a good thing as 50% of the cross sectional area was blocked with sooty crud. I cleaned it anyway and refitted it. Noticed a little more free revving over the last 500rpm. I then disconnected and plugged the EGR control vacuum line. The engine became a little more responsive and no ECU light (EU3).
I have since replaced the valve with a replacement straight through pipe and upon subsequent inspection there is no crud build up on the replacement pipe.
Talking from experience, the removal of EGR on my engine brought an improvement in drivivability and slightly better economy 1-2mpg.
If you want to improve the performance, I suggest the above + a remap + de-cat. De-cat in particular brought an increase in drivabiility with the turbo spooling up 2-300rpm earlier.
What part/s would I need to blank off the EGR? My S40 D5 comes with the dreaded DPF, a remap, dpf removed, and possibly Milltek is on my wish list hopefully this year, along with the egr removal. I have since replaced the valve with a replacement straight through pipe and upon subsequent inspection there is no crud build up on the replacement pipe.
Talking from experience, the removal of EGR on my engine brought an improvement in drivivability and slightly better economy 1-2mpg.
If you want to improve the performance, I suggest the above + a remap + de-cat. De-cat in particular brought an increase in drivabiility with the turbo spooling up 2-300rpm earlier.
Will try remove the egr first, and see if there is any difference, otherwise the egr will be back on.
Just thought I would post my experience with this:
I have an 05 Mazda6 TS Diesel which is non DPF (thankfully). Engine light came on because of an EGR fault code (according to diagnostic). Independent garage recommended replacement of EGR valve at circa £300. I kept running the car for 3 months with intermittent engine light. No change in drive-ability and garage said it wasn't really that urgent.
I ordered a blanking plate and gasket off ebay and fitted it. Engine light had gone off week previous and stayed off for next 4 weeks. I didn't notice any real change in how the car drives - maybe slightly happier when warming up. However I did lose some economy (+1 l/100km over 2 tanks of fuel - which was 11 Vs my usual 10 l/100km or 28 down to 25mpg). As a side note the best I have got out of this engine on a 100mile run was 8l/100km or 35mpg - not great really!
Engine light returned last week. I removed blanking plate as my MOT is this Saturday. May have passed with it but don't want to risk it.
When removing the blanking plate from the EGR there was lots of oily soot which dripped out of it. Put the EGR back to normal and reset the ECU (battery disconnect). Car is driving fine.
Not sure if I will put the blanking plate back on after MOT because of the mpg loss. Also, the engine light will keep coming on if plate is present. That said, it comes on without the plate as there is a fault there.
So - overall, not convinced that blanking is the best way to go.
Just my 2cents - other peoples experience obviously differs.
I have an 05 Mazda6 TS Diesel which is non DPF (thankfully). Engine light came on because of an EGR fault code (according to diagnostic). Independent garage recommended replacement of EGR valve at circa £300. I kept running the car for 3 months with intermittent engine light. No change in drive-ability and garage said it wasn't really that urgent.
I ordered a blanking plate and gasket off ebay and fitted it. Engine light had gone off week previous and stayed off for next 4 weeks. I didn't notice any real change in how the car drives - maybe slightly happier when warming up. However I did lose some economy (+1 l/100km over 2 tanks of fuel - which was 11 Vs my usual 10 l/100km or 28 down to 25mpg). As a side note the best I have got out of this engine on a 100mile run was 8l/100km or 35mpg - not great really!
Engine light returned last week. I removed blanking plate as my MOT is this Saturday. May have passed with it but don't want to risk it.
When removing the blanking plate from the EGR there was lots of oily soot which dripped out of it. Put the EGR back to normal and reset the ECU (battery disconnect). Car is driving fine.
Not sure if I will put the blanking plate back on after MOT because of the mpg loss. Also, the engine light will keep coming on if plate is present. That said, it comes on without the plate as there is a fault there.
So - overall, not convinced that blanking is the best way to go.
Just my 2cents - other peoples experience obviously differs.
nathanmcauley121 said:
When removing the blanking plate from the EGR there was lots of oily soot which dripped out of it.
I can't comment on any of the problems you were having but......that oily soot is going straight into your engine without the blanking plate there to stop it. Is that a good thing?Take a look at the photos in the link I posted further up.
A.J.M said:
Popular mod for LR owners of pre 07 models, they gunge up. Fail and throw up running issues, loss of power, mpg etc.
Blanked my old freeby td4 and it ran much better, had nicer power delivery and gained a few mpg.
Same here, did our old 2.0TD4 and it instantly improved the running, pulled stronger and slightly increased average mpg, also, just passed mot last Wednesday with no issues and no advisories. While I had spanners out I removed inlet manifold and cleaned all the crap out...which was substantial! Blanked my old freeby td4 and it ran much better, had nicer power delivery and gained a few mpg.
Centurion07 said:
I can't comment on any of the problems you were having but......that oily soot is going straight into your engine without the blanking plate there to stop it. Is that a good thing?
Take a look at the photos in the link I posted further up.
Took a look and that is certainly a very good removal and refitting guide. The issue I encountered on the Mazda was that I couldn't actually remove the EGR. The original plan was to clean and refit, but since I couldn't remove it I decided to blank. Take a look at the photos in the link I posted further up.
In the Mazda the EGR pipe from the exhaust seems to need removed to allow the EGR to come away from the manifold. With everything loosened I had enough room to slip the blanking plate behind but couldn't remove. Difficult to explain without pictures.
Certainly looks like removal and cleaning is a worthwhile task.
Having previous experience of the accursed EGR creating problems on Alfa JTD engines fitted with swirl flaps I decided to do something proactive when my similarly fitted Golf GT-TD170 started blowing lumps of soot over the alternator via a leaking flap actuation arm on the inlet manifold.
I removed the inlet manifold which was badly choked with soot and replaced with a plain version from a TD-140 (identical apart from lack of swirl flaps & gubbins) and while I was at it cleaned everything inlet side up and fitted a partial blanking plate to the EGR sufficient to trigger any sensors but not allow the full flow of sooty detritus back into the inlet manifold.
Result: The car instantly drove better at low revs especially with the previous hunting in traffic now gone, this was over a year ago and at MOT the emissions were lower too which was satisfying as apparently the flaps are supposed to help here on the TD-170 according to some experts of sorts?
I removed the inlet manifold which was badly choked with soot and replaced with a plain version from a TD-140 (identical apart from lack of swirl flaps & gubbins) and while I was at it cleaned everything inlet side up and fitted a partial blanking plate to the EGR sufficient to trigger any sensors but not allow the full flow of sooty detritus back into the inlet manifold.
Result: The car instantly drove better at low revs especially with the previous hunting in traffic now gone, this was over a year ago and at MOT the emissions were lower too which was satisfying as apparently the flaps are supposed to help here on the TD-170 according to some experts of sorts?
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