RE: Mazda RX-8: PH buying guide
Discussion
I owned a red 230 from brand new way back in 2003 (EN53 VCP where are you ?)
Perhaps only read on if remotely considering one of these or curious re tales of an early owner............otherwise you might find it more entertaining to sit on the loo instead !
I sold when it was just 2.5 years old & still within balance of Manufacturers warranty.
Great to drive, dealt with bends quite well though not always as urgent as some might have you believe.
I replaced worn REO40 rubber to REO50's.
It didnt drink masses of oil but it did need topping up. I checked it regularly. I may be wrong but contrary to what has been said I thought the Mazda Dexlia 5W30 was semi synthetic and not fully synthetic as stated. When I had mine serviced I supplied own oil to the dealer - Total Quartz 9000 (this went down ever so well- not),which from research was same as the Dexlia stuff. I bought a case full from oil supplier Total Butler & that worked out cheaper. Simon at Opie oils used to have a 230 and has a fair idea as to what is advisable for these.......I think he ran Fuchs Titan but I cannot be sure - It was nearly 10 years ago !
Back in the day I wrote the 1st buyers guide for these which was a sticky post on UK based RX8 Owners club site.........since replaced & with benefit of input from owners who owned these with more miles covered than me (23k on mine when sold & iirc).
MPG was more teen's than 20's and 16-18 typically. Ironic my current 4398 cc V8 BMW is more economical.
As has been stated these can flood and with fuel dumped into the cat. Procedure to sort this was to remove fuel pump fuse and turn over repeatedly but giving rest periods so as not to cook the starter, (I believe a more powerful starter became available on later cars).
Clutch could stink from hill starts despite care taken and there could be issues with a powerloss at higher revs........not much fun overtaking on single carrageway against oncoming traffic !
IIRC oil coooler grills could be vulnerable from low flying debris some fitted mesh covers and I seem to recall reading that there are remedial measures that can be taken to deal with corrosion to associated pipes.
As with other makes imported to UK, Mazda dealers & Mazda UK seemed reluctant to embrace Techical Service Bulletins published stateside with coments such as "it's a different market so it's a diferent car". I also seem to recall writing to the boss of mazda UK to rant re a coupe of issues - not least it falling excessively short of official MPG.
Renesis rotary lump actually won engine of the year 2003 if I recall....Quite funny now & in hindsight.
PZ a nice thing albeit due to slight delay in relasing same I think most if not all came under the increased tax bandinf introduced in 2006.
Leather interior an interesting description. The centre section was leather but I am yet to be convinced the ribbed bolsters were.......on US marketing literature there was reference to synthetic materials. Leather is heated btw and all 230's have Xenons.
Bose hi-fi not the best out there by todays or even past standards but if you could stop doors rattling it certainly gave plenty of db........certainly enough that my ears were ringing so be minful of this if you are an old fart like me and dont want to end up with affected hearing.
Miss mine dearly.......albeit I had the peace of mind of a manufacturers warranty which came in handy more than once........Dealer got so pi55ed off with me they would give me a Nissan Note courtesy car complete with full cheesy marketing decals along side pannels when mine went in for recall or waranty work.
It arguably benefits from being driven warm to reduce fragility so not ideal for short trips - when used for longer trips the MPG isn't likely to appeal to all. That and rotary the risk of engine failures is likey to put off a few.
If buying now I'd buy one with a compression check done by someone who knows these cars better than an average Mazda dealer. I'd also ask for a fresh MOT to ensure emissions ok & hopefully CAT not damaged from prior flooding.
A lot to be said from hunting high & low for a private selling 1st owner who can say all the right things re oil etc........Good luck with that !
Would I buy one used - Yes but only if not fussed re MPG & with plenty of cash in back pocket post purchase.
350z some say a bit more podgy looking but arguably less likely to leave you on hard shoulder. E46 330i hardly ground breaking but engine more reliable & less thirsty than the RX-8. Other enjoyable steers out there too and not for stupid money either......but this is about RX-8 - Not every other car out there for in same price range.
Hopefully my ramblings may interest some - I can only apologise to those not interested who didnt take my advice & visit the loo - the alternative to reading as suggested at opening of this post.
Must go - I seem to have bored myself now & hence need to grab a beer.
Perhaps only read on if remotely considering one of these or curious re tales of an early owner............otherwise you might find it more entertaining to sit on the loo instead !
I sold when it was just 2.5 years old & still within balance of Manufacturers warranty.
Great to drive, dealt with bends quite well though not always as urgent as some might have you believe.
I replaced worn REO40 rubber to REO50's.
It didnt drink masses of oil but it did need topping up. I checked it regularly. I may be wrong but contrary to what has been said I thought the Mazda Dexlia 5W30 was semi synthetic and not fully synthetic as stated. When I had mine serviced I supplied own oil to the dealer - Total Quartz 9000 (this went down ever so well- not),which from research was same as the Dexlia stuff. I bought a case full from oil supplier Total Butler & that worked out cheaper. Simon at Opie oils used to have a 230 and has a fair idea as to what is advisable for these.......I think he ran Fuchs Titan but I cannot be sure - It was nearly 10 years ago !
Back in the day I wrote the 1st buyers guide for these which was a sticky post on UK based RX8 Owners club site.........since replaced & with benefit of input from owners who owned these with more miles covered than me (23k on mine when sold & iirc).
MPG was more teen's than 20's and 16-18 typically. Ironic my current 4398 cc V8 BMW is more economical.
As has been stated these can flood and with fuel dumped into the cat. Procedure to sort this was to remove fuel pump fuse and turn over repeatedly but giving rest periods so as not to cook the starter, (I believe a more powerful starter became available on later cars).
Clutch could stink from hill starts despite care taken and there could be issues with a powerloss at higher revs........not much fun overtaking on single carrageway against oncoming traffic !
IIRC oil coooler grills could be vulnerable from low flying debris some fitted mesh covers and I seem to recall reading that there are remedial measures that can be taken to deal with corrosion to associated pipes.
As with other makes imported to UK, Mazda dealers & Mazda UK seemed reluctant to embrace Techical Service Bulletins published stateside with coments such as "it's a different market so it's a diferent car". I also seem to recall writing to the boss of mazda UK to rant re a coupe of issues - not least it falling excessively short of official MPG.
Renesis rotary lump actually won engine of the year 2003 if I recall....Quite funny now & in hindsight.
PZ a nice thing albeit due to slight delay in relasing same I think most if not all came under the increased tax bandinf introduced in 2006.
Leather interior an interesting description. The centre section was leather but I am yet to be convinced the ribbed bolsters were.......on US marketing literature there was reference to synthetic materials. Leather is heated btw and all 230's have Xenons.
Bose hi-fi not the best out there by todays or even past standards but if you could stop doors rattling it certainly gave plenty of db........certainly enough that my ears were ringing so be minful of this if you are an old fart like me and dont want to end up with affected hearing.
Miss mine dearly.......albeit I had the peace of mind of a manufacturers warranty which came in handy more than once........Dealer got so pi55ed off with me they would give me a Nissan Note courtesy car complete with full cheesy marketing decals along side pannels when mine went in for recall or waranty work.
It arguably benefits from being driven warm to reduce fragility so not ideal for short trips - when used for longer trips the MPG isn't likely to appeal to all. That and rotary the risk of engine failures is likey to put off a few.
If buying now I'd buy one with a compression check done by someone who knows these cars better than an average Mazda dealer. I'd also ask for a fresh MOT to ensure emissions ok & hopefully CAT not damaged from prior flooding.
A lot to be said from hunting high & low for a private selling 1st owner who can say all the right things re oil etc........Good luck with that !
Would I buy one used - Yes but only if not fussed re MPG & with plenty of cash in back pocket post purchase.
350z some say a bit more podgy looking but arguably less likely to leave you on hard shoulder. E46 330i hardly ground breaking but engine more reliable & less thirsty than the RX-8. Other enjoyable steers out there too and not for stupid money either......but this is about RX-8 - Not every other car out there for in same price range.
Hopefully my ramblings may interest some - I can only apologise to those not interested who didnt take my advice & visit the loo - the alternative to reading as suggested at opening of this post.
Must go - I seem to have bored myself now & hence need to grab a beer.
Edited by AW8 on Thursday 28th March 22:30
Great cars! I have had one since new, from a pre-order before I had even seen one, and it didn't disappoint me when I picked it up, and only a couple of years ago, after nearly a decade of ownership, I did the best drive of my life in it, up in the highlands coming back from Knockhill BTCC meet.
OK the fuel economy is tragic, but otherwise, its very cheap to buy, superb interior (unlike most Japanese cars), very comfy, 4 real seats (unlike many 2+2s) and superb looking and handling.
Take care of them though, or they will not like it! It's a real "stitch in time saves 9" car.
OK the fuel economy is tragic, but otherwise, its very cheap to buy, superb interior (unlike most Japanese cars), very comfy, 4 real seats (unlike many 2+2s) and superb looking and handling.
Take care of them though, or they will not like it! It's a real "stitch in time saves 9" car.
cib24 said:
First, I think one comment in particular in the article is definitely inaccurate. You DO NOT want to use the Mazda recommended 5W30 Dexylia mineral oil in this car at all. It's a horrible oil and you are better off using a proper semi-synthetic or full dino oil that is at least 10W30. Also, NEVER USE FULL SYNTHETIC OIL. That is a huge mistake. The cheap dino stuff is much better for the rotary.
Second, it must be pointed out that the chance of you being able to get a decent running RX8 that does not have low compression issues for less than about £4,500 is pretty low. I'm not saying that it can't be done but there are too many people selling RX8's out there for anywhere from £2,000 to £4,500 with motors that have compression results below the minimum 6.9 specification, basically meaning that the motor is on its way out. You should never ever buy an RX8 without a compression test done by a qualified rotary mechanic. Also, warm start issues reported in a lot of ads as being normal is DEFINITELY NOT NORMAL. This is a sign of a compression issue and a faster starter motor can hide this fact, so be wary. Hence, ALWAYS get a compression test done.
Third, the RX8 community is very helpful and the few shops in the UK that specialize in the RX8 are true lifesavers. These people can help you understand everything before going out and buying a used one. Pleaes sign up to rx8ownersclub.co.uk and/or rx8club.com and browse through their buying guides and research as much as you can on the intricacies of the car to help you make an informed decision.
Fourth, no doubt the best route to go if you want to spend under £5,000 is to buy a car with a bad motor and get the engine rebuilt by a professional like Hayward Rotary or Rotary Revs. These guys will completely rebuild your engine and offer a 2-3 year 30,000 mile warranty for under £3,000. The warranty even covers track days so long as you follow the warranty's very specific instructions about modifying the car, the type of oil used, keeping track of your service history, etc. Going down this route will cost you about £5,000 to £6,500 because an RX8 with a bad motor will go for £1,000-£1,500, the rebuild is £2,500-£3,000, and any extra miscellaneous parts that may be needed during the rebuild (like a catalytic converter, clutch and oil cooler lines) could be up to another £1,500-£2,000.
Fifth, the RX8 is a high maintenance vehicle. You can't and should not drive it like every other car. For one, do not drive the RX8 on short trips as the engine will not properly warm up and as the article says you should not shut it off when it's cold. Another thing to remember is that you should rev it to 8,000-9,000 rpms at least once per driving session to expel the un-burnt carbon that gets stuck in the engine. This will keep your seals alive longer and keep compression higher. Don't worry, whether or not you rev the car to the limit the mpg will still be about 20. Finally, check your oil at all times. The car will not use much more oil than your typical BMW or whatever when driven normally but will use a significant amount if you have just tracked it for the last two hours, so best advice is to check it before setting out or every time you fill it up.
Sixth, the RX8 does not make 228bhp. The highest dynos recorded are about 200-205 bhp on a stock motor but most will dyno between 180bhp and 195bhp. This might stop you from buying the car but even with the limited bhp figure it still tends to keep up with faster cars due to its light weight and the way the engine makes power.
Seventh, in my opinion the RX8 can be a very reliable car when properly taken car of and maintenance costs on a healthy motor will not be much more than your typical vehicle. I wouldn't use this car as a vehicle which will do more than 5,000 - 8,000 miles per year due to mpg but it can be done. This is a perfect car for the weekend and the track and the price of entry under £10,000 for even the newest R3's which have better reliability due to a few tweaks to the engine is a steal for such an enjoyable car to drive.
Good knowledge, thank you.Second, it must be pointed out that the chance of you being able to get a decent running RX8 that does not have low compression issues for less than about £4,500 is pretty low. I'm not saying that it can't be done but there are too many people selling RX8's out there for anywhere from £2,000 to £4,500 with motors that have compression results below the minimum 6.9 specification, basically meaning that the motor is on its way out. You should never ever buy an RX8 without a compression test done by a qualified rotary mechanic. Also, warm start issues reported in a lot of ads as being normal is DEFINITELY NOT NORMAL. This is a sign of a compression issue and a faster starter motor can hide this fact, so be wary. Hence, ALWAYS get a compression test done.
Third, the RX8 community is very helpful and the few shops in the UK that specialize in the RX8 are true lifesavers. These people can help you understand everything before going out and buying a used one. Pleaes sign up to rx8ownersclub.co.uk and/or rx8club.com and browse through their buying guides and research as much as you can on the intricacies of the car to help you make an informed decision.
Fourth, no doubt the best route to go if you want to spend under £5,000 is to buy a car with a bad motor and get the engine rebuilt by a professional like Hayward Rotary or Rotary Revs. These guys will completely rebuild your engine and offer a 2-3 year 30,000 mile warranty for under £3,000. The warranty even covers track days so long as you follow the warranty's very specific instructions about modifying the car, the type of oil used, keeping track of your service history, etc. Going down this route will cost you about £5,000 to £6,500 because an RX8 with a bad motor will go for £1,000-£1,500, the rebuild is £2,500-£3,000, and any extra miscellaneous parts that may be needed during the rebuild (like a catalytic converter, clutch and oil cooler lines) could be up to another £1,500-£2,000.
Fifth, the RX8 is a high maintenance vehicle. You can't and should not drive it like every other car. For one, do not drive the RX8 on short trips as the engine will not properly warm up and as the article says you should not shut it off when it's cold. Another thing to remember is that you should rev it to 8,000-9,000 rpms at least once per driving session to expel the un-burnt carbon that gets stuck in the engine. This will keep your seals alive longer and keep compression higher. Don't worry, whether or not you rev the car to the limit the mpg will still be about 20. Finally, check your oil at all times. The car will not use much more oil than your typical BMW or whatever when driven normally but will use a significant amount if you have just tracked it for the last two hours, so best advice is to check it before setting out or every time you fill it up.
Sixth, the RX8 does not make 228bhp. The highest dynos recorded are about 200-205 bhp on a stock motor but most will dyno between 180bhp and 195bhp. This might stop you from buying the car but even with the limited bhp figure it still tends to keep up with faster cars due to its light weight and the way the engine makes power.
Seventh, in my opinion the RX8 can be a very reliable car when properly taken car of and maintenance costs on a healthy motor will not be much more than your typical vehicle. I wouldn't use this car as a vehicle which will do more than 5,000 - 8,000 miles per year due to mpg but it can be done. This is a perfect car for the weekend and the track and the price of entry under £10,000 for even the newest R3's which have better reliability due to a few tweaks to the engine is a steal for such an enjoyable car to drive.
Edited by cib24 on Thursday 28th March 16:29
Same to you AW8.
Has there been any documented failures on the R3 yet, or did the changes work?
Edited by daz05 on Thursday 28th March 21:49
J4CKO said:
Why didnt Mazda do a turbo version ? seems a massive opportunity as people seem to either put up with the Rx7's issues or it has less issues, I would hate to fund an RX8's engine rebuild if it was only going to be slightly brisk, I remember one having a go when I had a remapped Saab 9-3 Aero, the Saab dropped it like it was stood still, had fancied and Rx8 but it just looked slow next to a mildly fiddled with Saab, I know the RX8 would have the better chassis by some margin but it put me off.
I wish someone would do a sensibly price drive in, drive out conversion for these, how is the VW 1.8 T engined one comign on ?
Mazda most likely didn't do a turbo version because they (i) were trying to make the RX8 a mass appeal sports car, not a niche car (like it should have been considering the high maintenance), and (ii) they couldn't pass emissions with a turbo. They really struggled to get the RX8 renesis rotary to pass US and EU emissions since the rotary naturally uses oil to lubricate the engine which mixes with the fuel and is expelled out of the exhaust.I wish someone would do a sensibly price drive in, drive out conversion for these, how is the VW 1.8 T engined one comign on ?
While the stock RX8 only makes between 180bhp-200bhp on average, a simple tune by a reputable tuner (i.e. Group B Motorsport in the UK) can get you another 15bhp since the stock ECU is built more for emissions regulations and fuel economy. When you rebuild the motor you can get it street ported and if you do the accompanying tune, and add full exhaust and a K&N intake filter it is not uncommon to see 215bhp-230bhp if not slightly more. The tune will add a nice bit of torque throughout the midrange and the port in combination with the tune will help it breath up top much better and continue to make very good power all the way to 9000 rpm.
Edited by cib24 on Thursday 28th March 22:37
Edited by cib24 on Thursday 28th March 22:38
Nice cars,i have owned 1,my mate 2 new ones,that he wrote off.However the low mpg and cost of the oil top ups far outway the sense to buy one.I got mine cheap ,and sold it on after a couple of months,it seemed to cist the same as a taxi to go anywhere.Then the engine problems are at the back of your mind. If only they had put a 2.0 turbo litre engine in.
stedale said:
What are the Improvements on the r3?
The changes made to the R3 are listed here:http://www.rx8club.com/series-ii-technical-trouble...
In short, the biggest changes are the third oil injector added to spray the engine from the centre instead of just from the sides and keep it lubricated better, a better ECU management system (but as a result not tunable due to how complex it is), a 4.77 final drive for quicker acceleration, and suspension enhancements listed in the buying guide article.
The reliability changes (third oil injector and ecu) have made the R3's much more reliable cars. However, as a result they do use more oil than the older RX8s. There have been one or two cases on the forums that I have read about in terms of R3's losing compression but every other one that I have read about has lasted through more negligence than the older cars. Obviously, the R3 is still a rotary so it needs extra loving to keep it running in tip top shape but the R3 was a huge step forward.
There is a reason that the R3's still go for £9k-£13k depending on mileage and year. They are more durable for the average joe.
check out how many non runners are for sale on ebay............
lots of horror storys im afraid,
Headlight levelling sensors fail, radios fail, cat's fail, water always in driver rear light, starter motors need upgrade, and as said above switching them off cold is when all the damage is done to the engine.
Sorry id run a mile from them, cheap yes, wouldn't be too bad a car if they weren't a ticking time bomb
lots of horror storys im afraid,
Headlight levelling sensors fail, radios fail, cat's fail, water always in driver rear light, starter motors need upgrade, and as said above switching them off cold is when all the damage is done to the engine.
Sorry id run a mile from them, cheap yes, wouldn't be too bad a car if they weren't a ticking time bomb
Edited by andy rob on Friday 29th March 13:14
You always know when an RX8 is going through the Auction:-
1. Several members of staff will be trying to get the car started
2. When it arrives in front of dealers/buyers they tend to start up a conversation
3. The auctioneer starts the bidding at somewhere around a leggy 10 year old corsa
4. If the hammer falls its a miracle, if it gets a provisional its lucky, if its sent on its way for the next auction normal routine
A real marmite car
1. Several members of staff will be trying to get the car started
2. When it arrives in front of dealers/buyers they tend to start up a conversation
3. The auctioneer starts the bidding at somewhere around a leggy 10 year old corsa
4. If the hammer falls its a miracle, if it gets a provisional its lucky, if its sent on its way for the next auction normal routine
A real marmite car
AW8 said:
I owned a red 230 from brand new way back in 2003 (EN53 VCP where are you ?)
Perhaps only read on if remotely considering one of these or curious re tales of an early owner............otherwise you might find it more entertaining to sit on the loo instead !
I sold when it was just 2.5 years old & still within balance of Manufacturers warranty.
Great to drive, dealt with bends quite well though not always as urgent as some might have you believe.
I replaced worn REO40 rubber to REO50's.
It didnt drink masses of oil but it did need topping up. I checked it regularly. I may be wrong but contrary to what has been said I thought the Mazda Dexlia 5W30 was semi synthetic and not fully synthetic as stated. When I had mine serviced I supplied own oil to the dealer - Total Quartz 9000 (this went down ever so well- not),which from research was same as the Dexlia stuff. I bought a case full from oil supplier Total Butler & that worked out cheaper. Simon at Opie oils used to have a 230 and has a fair idea as to what is advisable for these.......I think he ran Fuchs Titan but I cannot be sure - It was nearly 10 years ago !
Back in the day I wrote the 1st buyers guide for these which was a sticky post on UK based RX8 Owners club site.........since replaced & with benefit of input from owners who owned these with more miles covered than me (23k on mine when sold & iirc).
MPG was more teen's than 20's and 16-18 typically. Ironic my current 4398 cc V8 BMW is more economical.
As has been stated these can flood and with fuel dumped into the cat. Procedure to sort this was to remove fuel pump fuse and turn over repeatedly but giving rest periods so as not to cook the starter, (I believe a more powerful starter became available on later cars).
Clutch could stink from hill starts despite care taken and there could be issues with a powerloss at higher revs........not much fun overtaking on single carrageway against oncoming traffic !
IIRC oil coooler grills could be vulnerable from low flying debris some fitted mesh covers and I seem to recall reading that there are remedial measures that can be taken to deal with corrosion to associated pipes.
As with other makes imported to UK, Mazda dealers & Mazda UK seemed reluctant to embrace Techical Service Bulletins published stateside with coments such as "it's a different market so it's a diferent car". I also seem to recall writing to the boss of mazda UK to rant re a coupe of issues - not least it falling excessively short of official MPG.
Renesis rotary lump actually won engine of the year 2003 if I recall....Quite funny now & in hindsight.
PZ a nice thing albeit due to slight delay in relasing same I think most if not all came under the increased tax bandinf introduced in 2006.
Leather interior an interesting description. The centre section was leather but I am yet to be convinced the ribbed bolsters were.......on US marketing literature there was reference to synthetic materials. Leather is heated btw and all 230's have Xenons.
Bose hi-fi not the best out there by todays or even past standards but if you could stop doors rattling it certainly gave plenty of db........certainly enough that my ears were ringing so be minful of this if you are an old fart like me and dont want to end up with affected hearing.
Miss mine dearly.......albeit I had the peace of mind of a manufacturers warranty which came in handy more than once........Dealer got so pi55ed off with me they would give me a Nissan Note courtesy car complete with full cheesy marketing decals along side pannels when mine went in for recall or waranty work.
It arguably benefits from being driven warm to reduce fragility so not ideal for short trips - when used for longer trips the MPG isn't likely to appeal to all. That and rotary the risk of engine failures is likey to put off a few.
If buying now I'd buy one with a compression check done by someone who knows these cars better than an average Mazda dealer. I'd also ask for a fresh MOT to ensure emissions ok & hopefully CAT not damaged from prior flooding.
A lot to be said from hunting high & low for a private selling 1st owner who can say all the right things re oil etc........Good luck with that !
Would I buy one used - Yes but only if not fussed re MPG & with plenty of cash in back pocket post purchase.
350z some say a bit more podgy looking but arguably less likely to leave you on hard shoulder. E46 330i hardly ground breaking but engine more reliable & less thirsty than the RX-8. Other enjoyable steers out there too and not for stupid money either......but this is about RX-8 - Not every other car out there for in same price range.
Hopefully my ramblings may interest some - I can only apologise to those not interested who didnt take my advice & visit the loo - the alternative to reading as suggested at opening of this post.
Must go - I seem to have bored myself now & hence need to grab a beer.
I appreciate the input thanks for the post, I am caught between an RX8 and a 330...I live in central london so I do a lot of short journeys which is not ideal, I've driven both cars, the RX8 is no where near as quick, although lighter with same "quoted" power figures, but it feels like a more special car...can i be arsed with all the hassle?Perhaps only read on if remotely considering one of these or curious re tales of an early owner............otherwise you might find it more entertaining to sit on the loo instead !
I sold when it was just 2.5 years old & still within balance of Manufacturers warranty.
Great to drive, dealt with bends quite well though not always as urgent as some might have you believe.
I replaced worn REO40 rubber to REO50's.
It didnt drink masses of oil but it did need topping up. I checked it regularly. I may be wrong but contrary to what has been said I thought the Mazda Dexlia 5W30 was semi synthetic and not fully synthetic as stated. When I had mine serviced I supplied own oil to the dealer - Total Quartz 9000 (this went down ever so well- not),which from research was same as the Dexlia stuff. I bought a case full from oil supplier Total Butler & that worked out cheaper. Simon at Opie oils used to have a 230 and has a fair idea as to what is advisable for these.......I think he ran Fuchs Titan but I cannot be sure - It was nearly 10 years ago !
Back in the day I wrote the 1st buyers guide for these which was a sticky post on UK based RX8 Owners club site.........since replaced & with benefit of input from owners who owned these with more miles covered than me (23k on mine when sold & iirc).
MPG was more teen's than 20's and 16-18 typically. Ironic my current 4398 cc V8 BMW is more economical.
As has been stated these can flood and with fuel dumped into the cat. Procedure to sort this was to remove fuel pump fuse and turn over repeatedly but giving rest periods so as not to cook the starter, (I believe a more powerful starter became available on later cars).
Clutch could stink from hill starts despite care taken and there could be issues with a powerloss at higher revs........not much fun overtaking on single carrageway against oncoming traffic !
IIRC oil coooler grills could be vulnerable from low flying debris some fitted mesh covers and I seem to recall reading that there are remedial measures that can be taken to deal with corrosion to associated pipes.
As with other makes imported to UK, Mazda dealers & Mazda UK seemed reluctant to embrace Techical Service Bulletins published stateside with coments such as "it's a different market so it's a diferent car". I also seem to recall writing to the boss of mazda UK to rant re a coupe of issues - not least it falling excessively short of official MPG.
Renesis rotary lump actually won engine of the year 2003 if I recall....Quite funny now & in hindsight.
PZ a nice thing albeit due to slight delay in relasing same I think most if not all came under the increased tax bandinf introduced in 2006.
Leather interior an interesting description. The centre section was leather but I am yet to be convinced the ribbed bolsters were.......on US marketing literature there was reference to synthetic materials. Leather is heated btw and all 230's have Xenons.
Bose hi-fi not the best out there by todays or even past standards but if you could stop doors rattling it certainly gave plenty of db........certainly enough that my ears were ringing so be minful of this if you are an old fart like me and dont want to end up with affected hearing.
Miss mine dearly.......albeit I had the peace of mind of a manufacturers warranty which came in handy more than once........Dealer got so pi55ed off with me they would give me a Nissan Note courtesy car complete with full cheesy marketing decals along side pannels when mine went in for recall or waranty work.
It arguably benefits from being driven warm to reduce fragility so not ideal for short trips - when used for longer trips the MPG isn't likely to appeal to all. That and rotary the risk of engine failures is likey to put off a few.
If buying now I'd buy one with a compression check done by someone who knows these cars better than an average Mazda dealer. I'd also ask for a fresh MOT to ensure emissions ok & hopefully CAT not damaged from prior flooding.
A lot to be said from hunting high & low for a private selling 1st owner who can say all the right things re oil etc........Good luck with that !
Would I buy one used - Yes but only if not fussed re MPG & with plenty of cash in back pocket post purchase.
350z some say a bit more podgy looking but arguably less likely to leave you on hard shoulder. E46 330i hardly ground breaking but engine more reliable & less thirsty than the RX-8. Other enjoyable steers out there too and not for stupid money either......but this is about RX-8 - Not every other car out there for in same price range.
Hopefully my ramblings may interest some - I can only apologise to those not interested who didnt take my advice & visit the loo - the alternative to reading as suggested at opening of this post.
Must go - I seem to have bored myself now & hence need to grab a beer.
Edited by AW8 on Thursday 28th March 22:30
Still undecided....
Glad info of some use - I prefer manuals by far but wouldn't have a manual if regularly and mainly driving in urban stop/start London traffic. Most of the time you are unlikely to get over 40mph either so I would seriously consider whether a lesser HP vehicle might be a better used choice for the City. Dare I sugest a Lexus IS200 Automatic just might serve your needs better. I have not driven one and unlike some I wont BS you that I know everything re a car I have not owned/driven. If the IS200 with auto box is durable enough and behaves okay then I would perhaps consider same to reliably & comfortably sit in whilst driving in stop/start City traffic......It would also serve well when you escape from the city on longer runs too. RX-8 especially 230 needs to be reved and legs stretched in order for it to behave........it wont like London traffic and neither will the clutch. You could find a decent enought IS200 for RX-8 330i money.
IIRC the developers of RX-8 used E46 330i & IS200 as class leading vehicles they wanted to ensure RX-8 could confidently go up against..........I know this as I am a bit sad & it is mentioned in the the official launch hardback book on the RX-8.
Obviously other more economical/practical choices exist for for city driving exist but I am trying to offer a more liveable city use alternative to RX-8 rather than giving you a list of small economical urban city cars
HTH
IIRC the developers of RX-8 used E46 330i & IS200 as class leading vehicles they wanted to ensure RX-8 could confidently go up against..........I know this as I am a bit sad & it is mentioned in the the official launch hardback book on the RX-8.
Obviously other more economical/practical choices exist for for city driving exist but I am trying to offer a more liveable city use alternative to RX-8 rather than giving you a list of small economical urban city cars
HTH
Edited by AW8 on Friday 29th March 17:43
AW8 said:
Glad of use - I prefer manauals by far but wouldn't have a manaul car if regularly and mainly driving in urban stop/start traffic. most of the time you are unlikely to get over 40mph either so I would seriously consider whether a lesrer HP vehicle might be a better used choice for the City. Dare I sugest a Lexus IS200 Automatic just might serve your needs better. I have not driven one and unlike some I wont BS you I know everything re a car I have not driven. If the IS200 with auto box is durable enough and behaves okay then I would perhaps consider same to reliably & comfortably sit if in city traffic.
IIRC the developers of RX-8 used E46 330i & IS200 as class leading vehicles they wanted to ensure RX-8 could confidently go up against..........I am a bit sad - I still have the official launch hardback book on the RX-8.
Obviously other choices for city driving exist but I am trying to offer alternative to RX-8 rather than giving you a list of small economical urban city cars.
HTH
I've been through all that, made that mistake with an auto 5 series..boring... because I rarely use my car when I want to go out for a spin I want something with a bit of balls but its hard to justify something to ballsy, like another M3, just sitting there for days on end as a target for scum...if I was going to by an auto lexus I might as just well just give up and by any old dullard.IIRC the developers of RX-8 used E46 330i & IS200 as class leading vehicles they wanted to ensure RX-8 could confidently go up against..........I am a bit sad - I still have the official launch hardback book on the RX-8.
Obviously other choices for city driving exist but I am trying to offer alternative to RX-8 rather than giving you a list of small economical urban city cars.
HTH
I've always liked the look of these and the fact that it's got four doors adds to the appeal. Having read through the posts on here and doing some research online, as good as the handling might be, it just doesn't worth the headache for possible engine failure, cira 200 bhp and low teens mpg!
I'ld rather put my money into something more reliable.
I'ld rather put my money into something more reliable.
cib24 said:
stedale said:
What are the Improvements on the r3?
The changes made to the R3 are listed here:http://www.rx8club.com/series-ii-technical-trouble...
In short, the biggest changes are the third oil injector added to spray the engine from the centre instead of just from the sides and keep it lubricated better, a better ECU management system (but as a result not tunable due to how complex it is), a 4.77 final drive for quicker acceleration, and suspension enhancements listed in the buying guide article.
The reliability changes (third oil injector and ecu) have made the R3's much more reliable cars. However, as a result they do use more oil than the older RX8s. There have been one or two cases on the forums that I have read about in terms of R3's losing compression but every other one that I have read about has lasted through more negligence than the older cars. Obviously, the R3 is still a rotary so it needs extra loving to keep it running in tip top shape but the R3 was a huge step forward.
There is a reason that the R3's still go for £9k-£13k depending on mileage and year. They are more durable for the average joe.
Edited by stedale on Friday 29th March 23:41
I'd love one BUT
Why would I buy a decent one for £3k when I can buy a 330i for the same price that does 50% more miles for the same amount of fuel ? It is probably faster and is also RWD.
I can also do short trips and be pretty sure the BMW will re start and won't require a new engine.
If it's as a weekend car hence you want something "a bit different" and will put up with the poor mpg why wouldn't you buy the far prettier and faster RX7 ?
At £1k they make sense against a cheap Alfa but at £2k upwards I'll take the BMW.
Why would I buy a decent one for £3k when I can buy a 330i for the same price that does 50% more miles for the same amount of fuel ? It is probably faster and is also RWD.
I can also do short trips and be pretty sure the BMW will re start and won't require a new engine.
If it's as a weekend car hence you want something "a bit different" and will put up with the poor mpg why wouldn't you buy the far prettier and faster RX7 ?
At £1k they make sense against a cheap Alfa but at £2k upwards I'll take the BMW.
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