Today I've been frustrated by...

[kiethton]

So with it not tipping down today I thought that I'd attempt to work on the car, namely either raise the existing coilovers as speedbumps are a big problem and on Friday night with 5 people onboard it even bottomed out on a manhole cover. With a roadtrip to Croatia coming next month and the anticipated road quality I thought it likely for the best. Please note that my only previous car related jobs done to date an oil change on a 09 Fiesta and bulb changes on my 924s.

So, admittedly late in the day, I thought I'd get the car up on stands to see where I stood:



Upon inspecting the coilovers I noticed that I could see screws 'A' and 'B', but not 'C' to be found:





So rather flummoxed (you can tell I'm a noob when it comes to this right?) and knowing that the ride hight far too low I thought I'd swap back to the springs (although lowered to match the front). From looking behind the units I found the bolt to loosen (as well as the top bolt in the boot after removing trim)....however the bd wont un-do!!!!



Rather annoyed and with the light going, I put everything back together and 'The Chav' now stands as ever...and I feel that a trip to the garage to do it for me is now needed, better lube up!

As she now stands:



on bricks so the trolleyjack would actually get underneath)

[TooLateForAName]

Not sure I understand what you're saying.

Screws a/b/c ?

If you want to raise the heigh then I wouldn't support it with a axle stand on the suspension arm - that is keeping the weight on the spring and the support rings. Support it on the chassis or jacking points and let the suspension springs extend fully and then you'll find it easier to move the rings. Move them one at a time - dont try to move them together - and you'll find that a bit of back and forth will help.

Possibly a stiff/wire brush on the threads as well.


Also if you're looking at undoing the top bolt for the strut you might need to have a holder on it.

Edited by TooLateForAName on Sunday 19th May 22:06

[P I Staker]

Not entirely sure what you where trying to achieve but to adjust your ride height...

Unlock the locking ring, wind up the spring seat, relock with locking ring.

ETA: If you want to remove the whole unit, undo the lower bolt (Lefty loosey, righty tighty), then undo the top nut, you will need to prevent the piston from turning (An allen key or Torx usually fit in the top).

Also as said, if you want to work on the suspension its generally best to take the weight off it.

Edited by P I Staker on Sunday 19th May 22:07

Edited by P I Staker on Sunday 19th May 22:09

[kiethton]

TooLateForAName said:

Not sure I understand what you're saying.

Screws a/b/c ?

If you want to raise the heigh then I wouldn't support it with a axle stand on the suspension arm - that is keeping the weight on the spring and the support rings. Support it on the chassis or jacking points and let the suspension springs extend fully and then you'll find it easier to move the rings. Move them one at a time - don't try to move them together - and you'll find that a bit of back and forth will help.

Possibly a stiff/wire brush on the threads as well.

Very good point on the axle stand position....

By A, B and C I mean this (stolen from google):

http://www.perth-wrx.com/vb/mechanicals/48509-bc-c...

I could only see A and B?

So I could adjust them via twisting to make it ride higher

[P I Staker]

You don't have the same type of coil overs as that so they do not have height adjustment in the lower mount. Yours move the spring seat which is undesirable as it changes the spring pretension.

[kiethton]

P I Staker said:

Not entirely sure what you where trying to achieve but to adjust your ride height...

Unlock the locking ring, wind up the spring seat, relock with locking ring.

ETA: If you want to remove the whole unit, undo the lower bolt (Lefty loosey, righty tighty), then undo the top nut, you will need to prevent the piston from turning (An allen key or Torx usually fit in the top).

Also as said, if you want to work on the suspension its generally best to take the weight off it.

Edited by P I Staker on Sunday 19th May 22:07

Edited by P I Staker on Sunday 19th May 22:09

Thanks for that but what piston do you mean?

P I Staker said:

You don't have the same type of coil overs as that so they do not have height adjustment in the lower mount. Yours move the spring seat which is undesirable as it changes the spring pretension.

much appreciated to both. I think I will now swap them over to the lowering springs as I don't really want to mess around with spring compression and could really do with some more ride height.

[P I Staker]

kiethton said:

Thanks for that, much appreciated. I think I will now swap them over to the lowering springs.

Sorry to ask/noob question but what piston do you mean?

The damper piston.

[kiethton]

P I Staker said:

kiethton said:

Thanks for that, much appreciated. I think I will now swap them over to the lowering springs.

Sorry to ask/noob question but what piston do you mean?

The damper piston.

Thanks

[P I Staker]

kiethton said:

P I Staker said:

kiethton said:

Thanks for that, much appreciated. I think I will now swap them over to the lowering springs.

Sorry to ask/noob question but what piston do you mean?

The damper piston.

Thanks

Just did a google on the suspension type on the back of your car.

It seems the back has a top mount much like the front, so undo the two nuts for the top mount and the damper unit should drop out.

Be careful as you obviously don't have much experience and compressed springs can do you some damage.

[mrmr96]

kiethton said:

P I Staker said:

kiethton said:

Thanks for that, much appreciated. I think I will now swap them over to the lowering springs.

Sorry to ask/noob question but what piston do you mean?

The damper piston.

Thanks

Lol - you might want to get a grown up to help too!

I think there's two issues here:
1. The axle stand under the swing arm will be clamping the spring onto the top of those collars, so they won't move as they'll bind with the threads.
2. The threads look a bit scummy.

What I recommend is
1 to put the axle stand under the chassis, not the suspension, to let the suspension hang.
2 spray some WD40 or something on the threads and let them soak
3 undo the bottom collar only (that's the lcoking collar) and then wind the top one up to get the height you want
4 then wind the bottom up so it's tight on the top collar to lock it in place

HTH

[P I Staker]

mrmr96 said:

Lol - you might want to get a grown up to help too!

Be nice!

[kiethton]

P I Staker said:

mrmr96 said:

Lol - you might want to get a grown up to help too!

Be nice!

Thanks, i think I need it.....behind a desk most days and although i'll give things a go I'm often not that good!!!

All points taken onboard, WD40 spray will be purchased ASAP...think I'll give it another go next weekend, atleast I'll have another day to do it and may have learned something thanks to all on here!

[Riknos]

mrmr96 said:

Lol - you might want to get a grown up to help too!

I think there's two issues here:
1. The axle stand under the swing arm will be clamping the spring onto the top of those collars, so they won't move as they'll bind with the threads.
2. The threads look a bit scummy.

What I recommend is
1 to put the axle stand under the chassis, not the suspension, to let the suspension hang.
2 spray some WD40 or something on the threads and let them soak
3 undo the bottom collar only (that's the lcoking collar) and then wind the top one up to get the height you want
4 then wind the bottom up so it's tight on the top collar to lock it in place

HTH

This. You need to support the car on a part that isn't connected to the suspension?

1. Unlock the bottom collar first with a C spanner (hopefully you have one) remember - left loosey.
2. Then once unlocked, tighten the top collar up quite a bit. Don't do it up by an inch, thinking you'll get an inch extra height - it doesn't work like that! You have cheap coilovers (They look like Rokkors or one of their other names they go by) so it will increase the height by compressing the spring basically - so will also make the car stiffer! You could probably then go all the way to the top, or near the top, and it will still be lower than OEM but will be much stiffer, and higher than it is now.
3. Make sure you lock the collars together - by 'loosening' the top one, and tightening the bottom one at the same time - ideally you need 2 x C spanners for this.

I imagine the thread is corroded so may need to bath in WD40 or similar for a while before attempting it. It's an easy job, don't bother with a garage, if you can jack a car up and turn a spanner, you can do it yourself.

[darkyoung1000]

If the nuts seem quite solid I'd recommend a penetrating oil such as Plusgas rather than WD40 to assist.
Cheers,
Tom

[kiethton]

Riknos said:

mrmr96 said:

Lol - you might want to get a grown up to help too!

I think there's two issues here:
1. The axle stand under the swing arm will be clamping the spring onto the top of those collars, so they won't move as they'll bind with the threads.
2. The threads look a bit scummy.

What I recommend is
1 to put the axle stand under the chassis, not the suspension, to let the suspension hang.
2 spray some WD40 or something on the threads and let them soak
3 undo the bottom collar only (that's the lcoking collar) and then wind the top one up to get the height you want
4 then wind the bottom up so it's tight on the top collar to lock it in place

HTH

This. You need to support the car on a part that isn't connected to the suspension?

1. Unlock the bottom collar first with a C spanner (hopefully you have one) remember - left loosey.
2. Then once unlocked, tighten the top collar up quite a bit. Don't do it up by an inch, thinking you'll get an inch extra height - it doesn't work like that! You have cheap coilovers (They look like Rokkors or one of their other names they go by) so it will increase the height by compressing the spring basically - so will also make the car stiffer! You could probably then go all the way to the top, or near the top, and it will still be lower than OEM but will be much stiffer, and higher than it is now.
3. Make sure you lock the collars together - by 'loosening' the top one, and tightening the bottom one at the same time - ideally you need 2 x C spanners for this.

I imagine the thread is corroded so may need to bath in WD40 or similar for a while before attempting it. It's an easy job, don't bother with a garage, if you can jack a car up and turn a spanner, you can do it yourself.

Thanks for this, i think hearing that it'll make the car stiffer I may just swap out for the other springs I have to replace the coilovers all together to match the front suspension.

Seems to then just be a case of jacking it up (not on the suspension) removing the lower and upper bolt (after soaking with WD40) removing it (whilst chocking the Piston) and installing the replacement units?

[Riknos]

kiethton said:

Thanks for this, i think hearing that it'll make the car stiffer I may just swap out for the other springs I have to replace the coilovers all together to match the front suspension.

Seems to then just be a case of jacking it up (not on the suspension) removing the lower and upper bolt (after soaking with WD40) removing it (whilst chocking the Piston) and installing the replacement units?

When you mention swapping the 'springs' - do you mean the complete spring and strut? Or just the springs? As other springs wont fit on those coilovers, they'll be the wrong size.

Depends on how the suspension works on an EP3, you may need a spring compressor. The spring is still compressed between the bottom of the strut and the top mount. If you loosen the top mount it will literally ping upwards. You will also need the spring compressors to get the new springs back on the car.

[kiethton]

Riknos said:

kiethton said:

Thanks for this, i think hearing that it'll make the car stiffer I may just swap out for the other springs I have to replace the coilovers all together to match the front suspension.

Seems to then just be a case of jacking it up (not on the suspension) removing the lower and upper bolt (after soaking with WD40) removing it (whilst chocking the Piston) and installing the replacement units?

When you mention swapping the 'springs' - do you mean the complete spring and strut? Or just the springs? As other springs wont fit on those coilovers, they'll be the wrong size.

Depends on how the suspension works on an EP3, you may need a spring compressor. The spring is still compressed between the bottom of the strut and the top mount. If you loosen the top mount it will literally ping upwards. You will also need the spring compressors to get the new springs back on the car.

Yes sorry, I meant new spring and strut. I already have the uprated springs mounted on the original strutt courtesy of the previous owner (have standard springs seperate also). Will the complete unit just bolt in or will i need spring compressors also? (I do have these).

[the_lone_wolf]

Where are you going in Croatia? I'm living out here at the moment and most of the roads are no worse than the UK, many are much better...

[kiethton]

Oh thats good to know, the majority were good when I was last there a few years ago but the rougher roads around the Bays were a little bit of an issue.

We are staying in Bol on Brac Island but are planning trips to Krka Lakes, Trogir, Hvar and Split. (The latter 2 we will probally leave the car at the ferry port and go as foot passengers).

[SteellFJ]

I feel your pain, I just swapped the Type R out for a 320d because I had to limit where we went and how many passengers I had in the car, plus the Koni's were to bouncy (set to half the stiffness they would go to) to have our 4/5 month old boy in it for to long.

I miss it sooooooooooo F'n much. I have vowed to get another EP3 one day, just so much fun to drive compared to the BMW (Ultimate Driving Machine My ARSE!!)