Is this serious? Or did I do something stupid?
Discussion
Ozzie Osmond said:
All very well for you sitting in your garage waiting for cars to be presented for repair. For owners, these are the questions,
So you're telling me, if you bought an old Beemer with close to a 100k on it, you'd spend, potentially £600 or more changing the entire cooling system just to be sure? Why not do the head gasket when your there, that could go. Maybe change the auto box because I've 'read on forums' these go all the time at a 100k. - how much does a thermostat cost?
- how much does a water pump cost?
- how much does coolant cost?
- how does the labour charge for doing all these jobs on separate occasions compare with doing them together?
- how inconvenient are multiple trips to the dealer?
- how inconvenient/expensive is breakdown recovery?
- what's the risk/cost of engine damage through coolant loss?
I love the idea that by being in the trade it excludes me form being a vehicle owner too. I just sit in my garage, stroking a cat waiting for cars to be presented! Unfortunately, as fun as that sounds, it's not the case, and I am but a humble car Owner like everyone else here, incidentally, I own a 10 year old BMW. So far, I have no third degree burns, and I haven't set up a direct debit with BMW parts dep for every cooling system component ever made - just in case.
I apologise that I have written that in a horribly sarcastic manor, and it is not my intention to be provocative, I just feel, given some of the responses I've had that my point needs to be made in this manor.
I'll say no more on the matter.
I could not agree more, there is often a heard mentality on topics on the internet.
I do think there is a middle ground, i.e when one part of the cooling system is broken, it can be a good idea to replace a few more items from either a cost, its going to be removed anyway or its high risk that it will break next.
I do think there is a middle ground, i.e when one part of the cooling system is broken, it can be a good idea to replace a few more items from either a cost, its going to be removed anyway or its high risk that it will break next.
Because the system is vented by the cap to 15 psi constantly, I'm not taking the piss or anything but I'm surprised at the lack of knowledge on this matter and the amount of clowns jumping on't band wagon ooooo it will blow op ooooo,
I wish people would take advice rather than give s
t advice and start spouting off, you see my video on last page then your attempt at showing what happens In your video shows your lack of knowledge, that's a rad cap and a different system and will blow water out, but we are not discussing this type of system on this thread. Think about it.
Ozzie Osmond said:
Will one of you please find out and explain to us how the expansion tank can be at a lower pressure than the rest of the cooling system and thus "safe" for removal of its cap....
It's not at a lower pressure, but generally an expansion tank has the full level a lot lower than the cap, so when you open the cap the pressure is released, the level goes up, but does not spill out. Even at atmospheric pressure the coolant should not boil in the expansion bottle due to its slightly lower temp than in the engine, and the increased boiling point provided by antifreeze. There is no better proof than actually doing the job on a number of different vehicles, and cooling systems. The only time it will boil over in an expansion tank type set up is if there is a problem. The general rule is, as with all pressurised systems to err on the side of caution, open gently whilst applying downward pressure on the cap, and you'll soon, safely, find out if you can completely remove the cap. gavgavgav said:
I could not agree more, there is often a heard mentality on topics on the internet.
I do think there is a middle ground, i.e when one part of the cooling system is broken, it can be a good idea to replace a few more items from either a cost, its going to be removed anyway or its high risk that it will break next.
I agree. For instance, on a BMW, if you were changing the rad, you have good access the the water pump pulley, so you can slacken the belt and check for play, and bearing/impeller noise. You can also visually check the hoses, and the expansion bottle. I do think there is a middle ground, i.e when one part of the cooling system is broken, it can be a good idea to replace a few more items from either a cost, its going to be removed anyway or its high risk that it will break next.
Also, preventative wise, on a car that has a cambelt driven water pump, it's worth changing the pump at belt time, or belt at pump time.
)Benj1984 said:
Great news! Apologies for hijacking the thread! I'll take my share of the blame for that one!
I think/hope the debate was all good natured though, so no harm done!
I'm not bothered about the hijacking! At least it went in this direction rather than in some kind of witch hunt over facts that may have been missing from my eBay listing. I think/hope the debate was all good natured though, so no harm done!
Now, time to start a debate about the minor differences between the e60 and e39. Cooling systems, since I've taken a ropey old e39 in part ex to make the deal worthwhile
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