Bloodhound LSR Thread As Requested...

[IN51GHT]

CoolC said:

IN51GHT said:

CoolC said:

What's wrong with this one?

It's at the joint of two stringers. Not to be drilled yet.

Fascinating stuff, thanks for the explanations.

It's incredible how straight all the lines are too with no obvious jigs or rigs to line it all up. I presume there must be a very accurate measuring system that is always out of shot.

I drew the skins so the holes were laser cut prior to rolling!

[Fastdruid]

IN51GHT said:

CoolC said:

IN51GHT said:

CoolC said:

What's wrong with this one?

It's at the joint of two stringers. Not to be drilled yet.

Fascinating stuff, thanks for the explanations.

It's incredible how straight all the lines are too with no obvious jigs or rigs to line it all up. I presume there must be a very accurate measuring system that is always out of shot.

I drew the skins so the holes were laser cut prior to rolling!

That certainly beats the 100's of holes I hand marked, centre punched, drilled and reamed in my GT40!

[Greg_D]

IN51GHT said:

I drew the skins so the holes were laser cut prior to rolling!

Cool, why were the holes not drilled to the final dimension at that point? (i'm not doubting that there is a very good reason, i'm just intrigued as to what it is)

[Silent1]

Greg_D said:

IN51GHT said:

I drew the skins so the holes were laser cut prior to rolling!

Cool, why were the holes not drilled to the final dimension at that point? (i'm not doubting that there is a very good reason, i'm just intrigued as to what it is)

I wonder if the rolling deforms the holes slightly meaning they become marginally oval.

[Greg_D]

Silent1 said:

Greg_D said:

IN51GHT said:

I drew the skins so the holes were laser cut prior to rolling!

Cool, why were the holes not drilled to the final dimension at that point? (i'm not doubting that there is a very good reason, i'm just intrigued as to what it is)

I wonder if the rolling deforms the holes slightly meaning they become marginally oval.

in that eventuality, could they not laser them slightly oval along the opposite plane so they 'come true' when they are bent [/cunning]

I'm intrigued to get insight's answer

[anonymous-user]

I would imagine it's an issue with tollerance stacking. (not just for the skin sheet, but for the ribs underneath) Pre-cutting a pilot hole and then finish drilling a final and correct sized hole in the skin and the rib will absorb minor miss-alignments and ensure all rivets sit tight and concentric.

[IN51GHT]

Fear not, the pilot drill size is 2.4mm, final drill is 5/32", so drilled out nice & round.

The sea of blue continues to grow as the 2.4mm pilot holes are opened out the 5/32", Tufty & Richard are also countersinking the holes as they go ready for rivets heads (my idea of using brass dome head rivets for the 'steam punk' look wasn't approved).

[Asterix]

Good stuff mate - keep it coming

[Squiggs]

I can see a few scratches on the bodywork ..... but they should buff out.


Out of interest what type of paint will it be coated in and has the extra weight of paint been calculated ... if so what at?

[IN51GHT]

Squiggs said:

I can see a few scratches on the bodywork ..... but they should buff out.


Out of interest what type of paint will it be coated in and has the extra weight of paint been calculated ... if so what at?

There are two schools of though....

1. High build primer, flat, base & then top coat - about 25kg

2. Light etch prime & as little paint as it takes to get a good gloss. My preferred option as any rivets working lose will be easily identifiable, rather than masked by the high build primer.

Some have suggested filling the rivet holes.....this won't be happening.

[McWigglebum4th]

IN51GHT said:

There are two schools of though....

1. High build primer, flat, base & then top coat - about 25kg

2. Light etch prime & as little paint as it takes to get a good gloss. My preferred option as any rivets working lose will be easily identifiable, rather than masked by the high build primer.

Some have suggested filling the rivet holes.....this won't be happening.

There is another way

Contact the detailers and get them to polish the entire thing to a mirror finish

[IN51GHT]

McWigglebum4th said:

There is another way

Contact the detailers and get them to polish the entire thing to a mirror finish

We have joked about polishing it.

[Bonefish Blues]

You would get an army of volunteers, I'm sure!

[Zad]

I was about to suggest polish then anodise. Might take a huge anodising tank though. Also not sure about how anodising interacts with the substrate in stressed structures.

Also, you have me thinking about a steampunk CAD model of it now! Lots of opportunities for copper and brass pipes inside there, and stunning cockpit dials.

[KarlMac]

Thin layer of polyurethane?

[Greg_D]

would a wrap be completely stupid? surely it wouldn't blow off if you tucked the ends in and would probably be lighter than several layers of paint and primer (much quicker to apply as well

[CraigyMc]

Greg_D said:

would a wrap be completely stupid? surely it wouldn't blow off if you tucked the ends in and would probably be lighter than several layers of paint and primer (much quicker to apply as well

How well do wraps cope with air+dust at 1050mph at ground level?

[k-ink]

A wrap

Polish it up, or leave it bare and honest (with build marks). Don't bother with paint! This is pure engineering not a fashion statement.

[Greg_D]

CraigyMc said:

Greg_D said:

would a wrap be completely stupid? surely it wouldn't blow off if you tucked the ends in and would probably be lighter than several layers of paint and primer (much quicker to apply as well

How well do wraps cope with air+dust at 1050mph at ground level?

the same way every single other bit of the vehicle will! ie they don't know...

[KarlMac]

Thinking about it, wouldn't it need to be some sort of ceramic coating, such as used on space shuttles and F1 exhaust systems?