Jaguar XJ6 - What to look for?
Discussion
Hi everyone,
I think my next car 'goal' is to get a Jaguar, maybe an XJ6. I won't be doing many miles a year soon so fuel economy isn't a massive issue.
What should I look out for? Also, how much should I look to pay for a really good example?
I would consider an XJ8 however I have a feeling they're more 'problematic'?
I think my next car 'goal' is to get a Jaguar, maybe an XJ6. I won't be doing many miles a year soon so fuel economy isn't a massive issue.
What should I look out for? Also, how much should I look to pay for a really good example?
I would consider an XJ8 however I have a feeling they're more 'problematic'?
I'm assuming you're looking for a X300, the XJ6 produced from 1994 to 1997. That's essentially a re skinned version of the XJ40 XJ6 which dates back to 1985.
Mechanically the last Jaguar sixes are almost bombproof but not particularly refined or sophisticated. A reasonably well maintained one is capable of way past 100k without serious mechanical failure and main concern with a X300 will be corrosion, tired suspension and brakes and possible electrical problems. They are a reasonable DIY car and parts are cheap enough. There are a few manuals but most are 4 speed auto
Check all over and underneath for rust. Brakes should be smooth and judder free and the car should stop in a straight line hands off. Front suspension clonks or uneven front tyre wear suggest tired bushes, shocks or ball joints. Obviously make sure everything works.
The later V8 XJ - the X308, from 1997 to 2002 is a significantly better car - it's a massive step forwards in refinement and performance and is a completely different car to drive, but a badly maintained one will bleed you white. Available in 5 Speed auto only.
The 308 suffers from weak timing chain tensioners, sealed for life gearboxes and flaky water pumps. No doubt somebody will mention Nicasil linings but that's not a problem now as the high Sulphur fuel that caused problems with some cars was withdrawn in 2000. Post 2000 cars had most the early problems sorted but still suffer from gearbox and tensioner failures. Both can be rectified by retro fitting the later metal bodied tensioners and changing the gearbox oil and filter and water pump
Expect 28 MPG at best, low to mid 20s in general use and mid teens if you nail it everywhere. Tyres from £100 a corner - don't put budget tyres on an XJ you'll ruin it.
XJs are heavy cars and the comments about suspension and brake wear still apply to the X308.
Not quite so easy to DIY but everything can be done with a bit of thought.
The really important thing is to find a good one and that will take time - but you could say the the same for any 10 year + old car.
My X308 buyers guide - still a wip so e&oe
OVERVIEW
To avoid model confusion the 1997-2002 V8 engined XJ is often referred to by its factory designation as the X308. The V8 engine in the X308 is available in a 3.2, a 4.0 with VVT and a supercharged 4.0 and all versions are 5 speed auto only. £3000 should buy you a good example, but the best low mileage cars are priced at considerably more than that. Engines were revised in late 1999 for the 2000 model year to deal with design problems and a car fitted with the revised engine version can be identified by a VIN number ending in five, not six digits.
Pre engine revision cars had weak water pumps, secondary timing chain tensioners, throttle bodies and a Nicasil coating applied directly on the aluminum block bore walls rather than using conventional liners pressed into the block.
ENGINE NICASIL
Some Nicasil coatings suffered from bore erosion due to a combination of high Sulphur content fuel and repeated short trips that caused an acidic build up in the oil that etched away the Nicasil coating. Sulphur maximum allowable limits in petrol were lowered considerably in Jan 2000 so any pre 2000 Nicasil coated V8 engine that's still OK now should be fine forever. Several Nicasil lined engines were changed under warranty so you may see a pre 2000 car with a later steel lined engine fitted - identify this by the presence of a green tag on the head at the back of the RH bank and the engine change should also be recorded in the history. Symptoms of bore erosion resulting in loss of compression are poor cold starting, a rough idle and heavy oil deposits in the breather system and air intakes. Crankcase pressure will be high too – a quick check is to slightly lift the oil filler cap at hot idle. There should be little or no internal pressure or fumes escaping. Jaguar dealers can perform a blow by check to determine engine condition. A good condition engine will show less than 25 l/m, anything over 40 l/m will make a good Top Gear coffee table.
ENGINE COOLING
Impellors on early water pumps can disintegrate giving a loss of efficiency leading to overheating and potential head gasket failure. An early pump can be upgraded for the later version with a metal, not plastic impellor. The temperature gauge is software driven and not always an accurate refection of actual coolant temperature.
For an indication of water pump efficiency, remove the coolant header tank cap when the engine is STONE COLD, start up and gently increase engine speed. If the water pump is healthy you should see a steady stream of coolant into the tank from the thin return pipe that runs back from the front of the engine.
You may be able to identify the later type of pump by the presence of a black plastic, not metal gasket, but the only certain way is to remove the pump and have a look.. Sprung coolant hose clips can loose tension and allow pipes to blow off and some plastic parts on the hoses, unions and thermostat housing are delicate. It’s worth replacing all the sprung coolant clips with proper Jubilee ones. Check all over for evidence of coolant leaks, particularly around the thermostat/filler cap tower and coolant pipes underneath the inlet manifold. Occasional auxiliary heater pump failures can lead to no heat output in the cabin at low engine RPM. Cycle the whole climate and a/c system through all vent operations and temperature range. Two types of coolant available for the XJ - don’t mix the later orange long life one with the earlier type.
ENGINE THROTTLE BODIES
Early throttle bodies ought to have all have been changed to the later design under a factory safety recall. Some of the early bodies suffered from weak/failing actuating motors causing to the engine to cut out completely on the overrun. The later design should be fitted to all cars from VIN 043775 onwards.
SECONDART TIMING CHAIN TENSIOINERS AND CHAINS
The only post 1999 revision engine issue is the secondary timing chain tensioners. These were revised to a mk 2 version at the same time as the rest of the 1999 engine revisions but the mk 2 type still had a plastic body which can crack or break up leading to slipped or broken chains. Mk 1 tensioners are actuated by engine oil pressure and failure can often be identified by a sharp rattling noise similar to a bicycle chain dragging on the chain guard on a cold start. The mk2 type is permanently tensioned by an integral spring which usually means it’ll fail silently.
A permanent solution is to retro-fit the later mk3 version tensioner made with a metal, not plastic body from the later 4.2 incarnation of the V8 engine and the only way to be sure of which tensioners are fitted to an X308 is to either have a receipt with part numbers C2A1511 and C2A1512 which are the metal bodied type and the required 4 new bolts to fit them on it relating to that particular car or remove the RH cam cover - the LH is a PITA to get off - and have a look. An orange (mk1) or cream (mk2) plastic tensioner body is bad news, a grey metal one (mk3) is good.
The cam phasing on the V8 means the timing gear works hard and timing chains can stretch at high mileages or on neglected cars. If this is identified then a full chain and tensioner replacement is required costing up to £1000. If the chains are fine then it’s a wise precaution to fit the mk3 secondary tensioners which is a fairly easy DIY job. Tensioners cost around £75 a set plus a couple of quid for new bolts. Cam setting tools for this job and all other special tools needed for any work on an X308 can all be hired from the Jaguar Enthusiasts’ Club. Secondary tensioners can also be changed without any tools by removing the exhaust cam whilst preserving the timing with a tie wrap holding the chain on the sprocket and fiddling them out.
Exhaust cam chains slipping one tooth – usually on a cold start - will give a rough running engine, more than one tooth means exhaust valves meet pistons.
A good general rule of thumb for engine condition is internal cleanliness. Bright shiny metal inside the oil filler cap and dipstick along with clean oil and no evidence of leaks is a good sign, as is clear coolant that does not smell or tasted bitter or acrid.
GEARBOX/ DRIVELINE
All X308s have a “sealed for life” gearbox – ZF in the n/a cars and a Mercedes one in the supercharged cars. Loads have failed now - just look on ebay in the non runners or spares and repairs section. Any car that hesitates or engages Drive with a jerk or thump as the engine speed rises has a potential gearbox failure looming, changes should be seamless and quiet and you should be able to play tunes with the throttle, Sport switch and J gate selector.
A very faint whine may be heard in intermediate gears. Any gearbox problems or concerns are potentially fatal. An oil and filter change may be all that’s needed to cure a gearbox malfunction but that’s never guaranteed.
Ideally the gearbox oil and filter should be changed at 50k then at 25k intervals; it's not a simple drain and refill on the ZF box as the final fill has to be done quickly with the engine running and within a narrow temperature range.
The ZF 5 speed box on the n/a cars requires Esso/Mobil longlife LT 71141 fluid also known as Lifeguard Fluid 5 and not conventional Dexron 3. The Mercedes gearbox in the supercharged version is also sealed for life but the same change requirement apply although you can use Dexron 3 in this box and it’s a less complex job to do. Some transmission specialists offer a flush and change service done via the oil cooler pipes which also gets the oil otherwise retained in the torque converter out.
The same applies to the rear axle. Oil should be changed but there’s no drain plug. Old oil has to be vacuum extracted out of the filler plug. Refill with a API GL5 75 or 85/90 oil
BODY, PAINT AND CORROSION
Look for corrosion on the rear wheel arches, round the front and rear screens especially underneath the screen rubbers in the bottom corners, bottom of the front wings and most importantly behind the front shocks on both sides. There's a reinforcing plate where the engine sub frame V mount is bolted to the body rail and some cars have corroded badly here. Corrosion in the same area may also be visible in the engine compartment on the top of the body rail around the heads of the bolts that retain the top of the V mounts. It's an MOT fail too and a big welding job. Another area to check is the joint between the front inner wings and the bulkhead. Body and paintwork is otherwise pretty good however some darker coloured cars suffer from peeling lacquer. Bumper corners are susceptible to damage and bumper mounting brackets can corrode .
Paint lacquer on the XJ is soft and easy to scratch with careless washing Providing you can’t actually feel the damage and the paint colour underneath is OK it’s possible to restore the bodywork to a very good finish with a through clean, polish and wax. Stripe down body flanks if car has one is hand painted and not always completely straight.
INTERIOR
Always leather with different levels of trim and seat design. Wood trim clips on and is easy to change to different type. Driver’s seat back and steering wheels tend to suffer
from wear. Head linings can sag. LWB version obviously has more room in back.
SUSPENSION, TYRES AND BRAKES
X308s are hard on suspension and brakes, listen and feel very carefully for any clonking or knocking and make sure the car comes to a straight judder-free stop under both light and hard braking. A sharp rattle heard and felt through the steering over bumps combined with a little free play in the steering wheel may be a worn crush joint on the lower steering column.
A clattery rattle from the rear is likely to be failed shocks or shock bushes. X308s with weak rear A frame bushes will tend to self steer and wander about under hard acceleration.
Feel round all the tyres for uneven wear patterns; any suspension wear or bush failure giving incorrect geometry will cause tyres to feather oddly and heavy wear in the inside edges is a symptom of excess negative camber from wishbone bush failure. Very slight even feathering is normal, especially on the fronts.
All Jaguar XJs are very sensitive to wheel and tyre imbalances or damage, typically you'll feel a steering wobble between 50-70MPH and possibly vibration through the seat if there are any tyre problems or buckled wheels. A Roadforce wheel balance is usually the solution. Incorrect tyre pressures, worn out or cheap budget tyres will severely affect handling and ride. Some X308s exhibit a faint exhaust vibration or harmonic around 50 and another one at 65MPH. You might possibly experience a hint of driveline vibration through the body too. Don't expect too much in the way of the legendary Jaguar ride quality either - it's pretty good on touring (black shocks) suspension and 16" wheels but sport suspension cars (green shocks) are stiffer and have a up rated front antiroll bar and one on the rear too which when combined with larger diameter wheels and lower profile tyres gives a hard crashy ride on poor roads. CATS suspension may be fitted as an option to any X308 CATS has electronically controlled valves in the shocks to vary the damping rates depending on driving style. Identify CATS by the presence of a plastic cover over the top of the front shock absorber with a lead going into it.
ELECTRICIAL/ OBD2 DIAGNOSTICS
Electrical systems are generally pretty robust. As with any old car you might have the odd problem so check absolutely everything works. Even the earliest X308 is OBD2 compliant and a £20 code reader plugged into the socket in the driver’s footwell will help
diagnosis a lot. Electric aerials are vunerable, there are occasional O2 sensor, airflow meter and brake light switch failures.
XJ’s need a strong battery to avoid random error messages appearing on start up. If you get one – usually TRAC FAIL – the battery is on its way out or needs several days on a trickle charge to bring it back up to full capacity.
BUYING AND LIVING WITH AN XJ
Generally the 1998-2002 XJ8 is a strong car and capable of big mileages if maintained well and not abused or neglected. It's mostly easy enough to DIY and parts are reasonable and in good supply from several independents and the Jaguar Classic Parts scheme. Expect around 26/8 MPG on the motorway, 20/4 round town and mid teens or less if you nail it everywhere. Tyres are around £100/130 a corner in 16" diameter size. The 3.2 is quick enough (0-60 is 8s) the 4.0 is much rarer and does the same in 7.0.
Shortening intervals between servicing and using a genuine fully synthetic oil is worthwhile. It’ll help protect the timing chains and give improved fuel economy. A through rust proofing and full fluid change is a benefit too if you want to preserve the car. Official servicing is annual or 10000miles. 70k service is the expensive one on n/a cars.
One last thing. A software fault means you should never start an XJ8 from cold and then switch off again straightaway and before allowing the temp gauge to move off the cold section of the scale. Chances are it’ll flood when you next start and wash all the oil of the bores and it’s a right PITA to get it running again.
Mechanically the last Jaguar sixes are almost bombproof but not particularly refined or sophisticated. A reasonably well maintained one is capable of way past 100k without serious mechanical failure and main concern with a X300 will be corrosion, tired suspension and brakes and possible electrical problems. They are a reasonable DIY car and parts are cheap enough. There are a few manuals but most are 4 speed auto
Check all over and underneath for rust. Brakes should be smooth and judder free and the car should stop in a straight line hands off. Front suspension clonks or uneven front tyre wear suggest tired bushes, shocks or ball joints. Obviously make sure everything works.
The later V8 XJ - the X308, from 1997 to 2002 is a significantly better car - it's a massive step forwards in refinement and performance and is a completely different car to drive, but a badly maintained one will bleed you white. Available in 5 Speed auto only.
The 308 suffers from weak timing chain tensioners, sealed for life gearboxes and flaky water pumps. No doubt somebody will mention Nicasil linings but that's not a problem now as the high Sulphur fuel that caused problems with some cars was withdrawn in 2000. Post 2000 cars had most the early problems sorted but still suffer from gearbox and tensioner failures. Both can be rectified by retro fitting the later metal bodied tensioners and changing the gearbox oil and filter and water pump
Expect 28 MPG at best, low to mid 20s in general use and mid teens if you nail it everywhere. Tyres from £100 a corner - don't put budget tyres on an XJ you'll ruin it.
XJs are heavy cars and the comments about suspension and brake wear still apply to the X308.
Not quite so easy to DIY but everything can be done with a bit of thought.
The really important thing is to find a good one and that will take time - but you could say the the same for any 10 year + old car.
My X308 buyers guide - still a wip so e&oe
OVERVIEW
To avoid model confusion the 1997-2002 V8 engined XJ is often referred to by its factory designation as the X308. The V8 engine in the X308 is available in a 3.2, a 4.0 with VVT and a supercharged 4.0 and all versions are 5 speed auto only. £3000 should buy you a good example, but the best low mileage cars are priced at considerably more than that. Engines were revised in late 1999 for the 2000 model year to deal with design problems and a car fitted with the revised engine version can be identified by a VIN number ending in five, not six digits.
Pre engine revision cars had weak water pumps, secondary timing chain tensioners, throttle bodies and a Nicasil coating applied directly on the aluminum block bore walls rather than using conventional liners pressed into the block.
ENGINE NICASIL
Some Nicasil coatings suffered from bore erosion due to a combination of high Sulphur content fuel and repeated short trips that caused an acidic build up in the oil that etched away the Nicasil coating. Sulphur maximum allowable limits in petrol were lowered considerably in Jan 2000 so any pre 2000 Nicasil coated V8 engine that's still OK now should be fine forever. Several Nicasil lined engines were changed under warranty so you may see a pre 2000 car with a later steel lined engine fitted - identify this by the presence of a green tag on the head at the back of the RH bank and the engine change should also be recorded in the history. Symptoms of bore erosion resulting in loss of compression are poor cold starting, a rough idle and heavy oil deposits in the breather system and air intakes. Crankcase pressure will be high too – a quick check is to slightly lift the oil filler cap at hot idle. There should be little or no internal pressure or fumes escaping. Jaguar dealers can perform a blow by check to determine engine condition. A good condition engine will show less than 25 l/m, anything over 40 l/m will make a good Top Gear coffee table.
ENGINE COOLING
Impellors on early water pumps can disintegrate giving a loss of efficiency leading to overheating and potential head gasket failure. An early pump can be upgraded for the later version with a metal, not plastic impellor. The temperature gauge is software driven and not always an accurate refection of actual coolant temperature.
For an indication of water pump efficiency, remove the coolant header tank cap when the engine is STONE COLD, start up and gently increase engine speed. If the water pump is healthy you should see a steady stream of coolant into the tank from the thin return pipe that runs back from the front of the engine.
You may be able to identify the later type of pump by the presence of a black plastic, not metal gasket, but the only certain way is to remove the pump and have a look.. Sprung coolant hose clips can loose tension and allow pipes to blow off and some plastic parts on the hoses, unions and thermostat housing are delicate. It’s worth replacing all the sprung coolant clips with proper Jubilee ones. Check all over for evidence of coolant leaks, particularly around the thermostat/filler cap tower and coolant pipes underneath the inlet manifold. Occasional auxiliary heater pump failures can lead to no heat output in the cabin at low engine RPM. Cycle the whole climate and a/c system through all vent operations and temperature range. Two types of coolant available for the XJ - don’t mix the later orange long life one with the earlier type.
ENGINE THROTTLE BODIES
Early throttle bodies ought to have all have been changed to the later design under a factory safety recall. Some of the early bodies suffered from weak/failing actuating motors causing to the engine to cut out completely on the overrun. The later design should be fitted to all cars from VIN 043775 onwards.
SECONDART TIMING CHAIN TENSIOINERS AND CHAINS
The only post 1999 revision engine issue is the secondary timing chain tensioners. These were revised to a mk 2 version at the same time as the rest of the 1999 engine revisions but the mk 2 type still had a plastic body which can crack or break up leading to slipped or broken chains. Mk 1 tensioners are actuated by engine oil pressure and failure can often be identified by a sharp rattling noise similar to a bicycle chain dragging on the chain guard on a cold start. The mk2 type is permanently tensioned by an integral spring which usually means it’ll fail silently.
A permanent solution is to retro-fit the later mk3 version tensioner made with a metal, not plastic body from the later 4.2 incarnation of the V8 engine and the only way to be sure of which tensioners are fitted to an X308 is to either have a receipt with part numbers C2A1511 and C2A1512 which are the metal bodied type and the required 4 new bolts to fit them on it relating to that particular car or remove the RH cam cover - the LH is a PITA to get off - and have a look. An orange (mk1) or cream (mk2) plastic tensioner body is bad news, a grey metal one (mk3) is good.
The cam phasing on the V8 means the timing gear works hard and timing chains can stretch at high mileages or on neglected cars. If this is identified then a full chain and tensioner replacement is required costing up to £1000. If the chains are fine then it’s a wise precaution to fit the mk3 secondary tensioners which is a fairly easy DIY job. Tensioners cost around £75 a set plus a couple of quid for new bolts. Cam setting tools for this job and all other special tools needed for any work on an X308 can all be hired from the Jaguar Enthusiasts’ Club. Secondary tensioners can also be changed without any tools by removing the exhaust cam whilst preserving the timing with a tie wrap holding the chain on the sprocket and fiddling them out.
Exhaust cam chains slipping one tooth – usually on a cold start - will give a rough running engine, more than one tooth means exhaust valves meet pistons.
A good general rule of thumb for engine condition is internal cleanliness. Bright shiny metal inside the oil filler cap and dipstick along with clean oil and no evidence of leaks is a good sign, as is clear coolant that does not smell or tasted bitter or acrid.
GEARBOX/ DRIVELINE
All X308s have a “sealed for life” gearbox – ZF in the n/a cars and a Mercedes one in the supercharged cars. Loads have failed now - just look on ebay in the non runners or spares and repairs section. Any car that hesitates or engages Drive with a jerk or thump as the engine speed rises has a potential gearbox failure looming, changes should be seamless and quiet and you should be able to play tunes with the throttle, Sport switch and J gate selector.
A very faint whine may be heard in intermediate gears. Any gearbox problems or concerns are potentially fatal. An oil and filter change may be all that’s needed to cure a gearbox malfunction but that’s never guaranteed.
Ideally the gearbox oil and filter should be changed at 50k then at 25k intervals; it's not a simple drain and refill on the ZF box as the final fill has to be done quickly with the engine running and within a narrow temperature range.
The ZF 5 speed box on the n/a cars requires Esso/Mobil longlife LT 71141 fluid also known as Lifeguard Fluid 5 and not conventional Dexron 3. The Mercedes gearbox in the supercharged version is also sealed for life but the same change requirement apply although you can use Dexron 3 in this box and it’s a less complex job to do. Some transmission specialists offer a flush and change service done via the oil cooler pipes which also gets the oil otherwise retained in the torque converter out.
The same applies to the rear axle. Oil should be changed but there’s no drain plug. Old oil has to be vacuum extracted out of the filler plug. Refill with a API GL5 75 or 85/90 oil
BODY, PAINT AND CORROSION
Look for corrosion on the rear wheel arches, round the front and rear screens especially underneath the screen rubbers in the bottom corners, bottom of the front wings and most importantly behind the front shocks on both sides. There's a reinforcing plate where the engine sub frame V mount is bolted to the body rail and some cars have corroded badly here. Corrosion in the same area may also be visible in the engine compartment on the top of the body rail around the heads of the bolts that retain the top of the V mounts. It's an MOT fail too and a big welding job. Another area to check is the joint between the front inner wings and the bulkhead. Body and paintwork is otherwise pretty good however some darker coloured cars suffer from peeling lacquer. Bumper corners are susceptible to damage and bumper mounting brackets can corrode .
Paint lacquer on the XJ is soft and easy to scratch with careless washing Providing you can’t actually feel the damage and the paint colour underneath is OK it’s possible to restore the bodywork to a very good finish with a through clean, polish and wax. Stripe down body flanks if car has one is hand painted and not always completely straight.
INTERIOR
Always leather with different levels of trim and seat design. Wood trim clips on and is easy to change to different type. Driver’s seat back and steering wheels tend to suffer
from wear. Head linings can sag. LWB version obviously has more room in back.
SUSPENSION, TYRES AND BRAKES
X308s are hard on suspension and brakes, listen and feel very carefully for any clonking or knocking and make sure the car comes to a straight judder-free stop under both light and hard braking. A sharp rattle heard and felt through the steering over bumps combined with a little free play in the steering wheel may be a worn crush joint on the lower steering column.
A clattery rattle from the rear is likely to be failed shocks or shock bushes. X308s with weak rear A frame bushes will tend to self steer and wander about under hard acceleration.
Feel round all the tyres for uneven wear patterns; any suspension wear or bush failure giving incorrect geometry will cause tyres to feather oddly and heavy wear in the inside edges is a symptom of excess negative camber from wishbone bush failure. Very slight even feathering is normal, especially on the fronts.
All Jaguar XJs are very sensitive to wheel and tyre imbalances or damage, typically you'll feel a steering wobble between 50-70MPH and possibly vibration through the seat if there are any tyre problems or buckled wheels. A Roadforce wheel balance is usually the solution. Incorrect tyre pressures, worn out or cheap budget tyres will severely affect handling and ride. Some X308s exhibit a faint exhaust vibration or harmonic around 50 and another one at 65MPH. You might possibly experience a hint of driveline vibration through the body too. Don't expect too much in the way of the legendary Jaguar ride quality either - it's pretty good on touring (black shocks) suspension and 16" wheels but sport suspension cars (green shocks) are stiffer and have a up rated front antiroll bar and one on the rear too which when combined with larger diameter wheels and lower profile tyres gives a hard crashy ride on poor roads. CATS suspension may be fitted as an option to any X308 CATS has electronically controlled valves in the shocks to vary the damping rates depending on driving style. Identify CATS by the presence of a plastic cover over the top of the front shock absorber with a lead going into it.
ELECTRICIAL/ OBD2 DIAGNOSTICS
Electrical systems are generally pretty robust. As with any old car you might have the odd problem so check absolutely everything works. Even the earliest X308 is OBD2 compliant and a £20 code reader plugged into the socket in the driver’s footwell will help
diagnosis a lot. Electric aerials are vunerable, there are occasional O2 sensor, airflow meter and brake light switch failures.
XJ’s need a strong battery to avoid random error messages appearing on start up. If you get one – usually TRAC FAIL – the battery is on its way out or needs several days on a trickle charge to bring it back up to full capacity.
BUYING AND LIVING WITH AN XJ
Generally the 1998-2002 XJ8 is a strong car and capable of big mileages if maintained well and not abused or neglected. It's mostly easy enough to DIY and parts are reasonable and in good supply from several independents and the Jaguar Classic Parts scheme. Expect around 26/8 MPG on the motorway, 20/4 round town and mid teens or less if you nail it everywhere. Tyres are around £100/130 a corner in 16" diameter size. The 3.2 is quick enough (0-60 is 8s) the 4.0 is much rarer and does the same in 7.0.
Shortening intervals between servicing and using a genuine fully synthetic oil is worthwhile. It’ll help protect the timing chains and give improved fuel economy. A through rust proofing and full fluid change is a benefit too if you want to preserve the car. Official servicing is annual or 10000miles. 70k service is the expensive one on n/a cars.
One last thing. A software fault means you should never start an XJ8 from cold and then switch off again straightaway and before allowing the temp gauge to move off the cold section of the scale. Chances are it’ll flood when you next start and wash all the oil of the bores and it’s a right PITA to get it running again.
My father had a 98 XJ Sport about 8 - 10 years ago
It had over 100k miles on it and was very reliable, set of headlight bulbs in about three years of ownership
It was black with cream leather so it looked great.
Someone else thought so too as they took the liberty of attempting to break in and steal it smashing a window and wrecking the ignition in the process.
Little did they know my father had taken out the battery to charge it overnight in the winter months so they could have stayed until the cows came home and it wouldn't have started
It had over 100k miles on it and was very reliable, set of headlight bulbs in about three years of ownership
It was black with cream leather so it looked great.
Someone else thought so too as they took the liberty of attempting to break in and steal it smashing a window and wrecking the ignition in the process.
Little did they know my father had taken out the battery to charge it overnight in the winter months so they could have stayed until the cows came home and it wouldn't have started
Not much to add really!
I have had an XJ40 and an X300, both in 3.2 straight-6 flavour. I experienced the flooding issue on both, they do not like being started up just to be moved across the drive, say.
On the X300, there was absolutely zero rust. However, it did require a re-con differential (a low droning noise above 25mph might indicate a buggered bearing in the diff). Also the electric steering column adjust had packed up in its lowest rake, never got brave enough to go in there with tools and fix it. It was a 5-speed manual, oddly enough, and I don't feel it suited the car well at all.
I'd avoid LWB versions, as I have heard that things such as rear side windows are hard to get hold of, which is a pain if one gets smashed.
I have had an XJ40 and an X300, both in 3.2 straight-6 flavour. I experienced the flooding issue on both, they do not like being started up just to be moved across the drive, say.
On the X300, there was absolutely zero rust. However, it did require a re-con differential (a low droning noise above 25mph might indicate a buggered bearing in the diff). Also the electric steering column adjust had packed up in its lowest rake, never got brave enough to go in there with tools and fix it. It was a 5-speed manual, oddly enough, and I don't feel it suited the car well at all.
I'd avoid LWB versions, as I have heard that things such as rear side windows are hard to get hold of, which is a pain if one gets smashed.
Forgot to add: get one, it will make you feel happy and slightly special even doing mundane things like going to the bottle bank. And the frantic Euroboxes tailgating each other on the M25 all seem like somebody else's problem, as you ease along with that happy feeling of a man who needn't concern himself with all that nonsense 
NervySi said:
Forgot to add: get one, it will make you feel happy and slightly special even doing mundane things like going to the bottle bank. And the frantic Euroboxes tailgating each other on the M25 all seem like somebody else's problem, as you ease along with that happy feeling of a man who needn't concern himself with all that nonsense
That's the greatest thing of all with an old XJ - no confrontation or aggression from anybody because everybody has a bit of a soft spot for them and wafting about even in a tatty old one is still a bit special. Sure, Ze Chermans build a better barge but somehow the XJ always seems to attract more positive attentionJaguar steve said:
NervySi said:
Forgot to add: get one, it will make you feel happy and slightly special even doing mundane things like going to the bottle bank. And the frantic Euroboxes tailgating each other on the M25 all seem like somebody else's problem, as you ease along with that happy feeling of a man who needn't concern himself with all that nonsense
That's the greatest thing of all with an old XJ - no confrontation or aggression from anybody because everybody has a bit of a soft spot for them and wafting about even in a tatty old one is still a bit special. Sure, Ze Chermans build a better barge but somehow the XJ always seems to attract more positive attention
Thanks for taking the time to write the replies everyone
Matt
HaylingJag said:
Hello Matt,
Mrs Jags supercharged 6 has to go mate, in for its MoT right now, crusty arches done, headlining done, sure youve seen in in the flesh, if not come and have a spin!
Darren
Hey Darren, I was going to drop you a message asking if I could have a look around your examples!Mrs Jags supercharged 6 has to go mate, in for its MoT right now, crusty arches done, headlining done, sure youve seen in in the flesh, if not come and have a spin!
Darren
It will probably be March/April if I buy, that's when the values for MX5's are higher (selling) and my bonus is paid at work. On top of that I'm buying a flat at the moment so I'm fairly busy! I think a lot of it as well depends on how much the Mazda costs to put through its MOT.
Thank you for the offer and I'll let you know when I'm around.
Kind regards,
Matt
P.S You should have never bought your XJ to that pub meet that time - Since sitting in it I am hooked!
I bought a 1999 Sovereign on a whim last week for £2100,in the dark whilsy pouring with rain lol. I bought it on the strength of the ad and the photos and history.Only faults I hve found was water in rear footwell,so spent two day drying it out,it now resides in my heated garage so shouldnt be an issue again.Changed 2 bulbs,rear door was throwing an open error up on the dash and keeping interior lights on,wd40 made it worse. Suspected door latch microswitch removed panel,cleaned connector block and hey presto.Other than that its sublime,like a gentlemans club on wheels,every button works,4 new tyres,freshly serviced and drives spot on.A lot of car for peanuts.
Stuart70 said:
When wanting an XJ6, in my experience the thing to look for is a Mercedes.
Not trolling, just had bad experience with the quality.... I am sure others will have has the equal and opposite experience with Mercedes and will be along to correct me shortly!
As strange as it might sound, as someone who has been looking at XJ jaguars I have not for one moment considered looking for a Mercedes instead. I find them pretty dull and overhyped to be honest. Every XJ I've driven, regardless of engine or spec has felt like an occasion, something special. Every Merc I've driven felt like a disappointment, not because it is a bad car, but because they don't live upto the hype you'll find at lot of barge lovers spouting, I just don't get them.Not trolling, just had bad experience with the quality.... I am sure others will have has the equal and opposite experience with Mercedes and will be along to correct me shortly!
Stuart70 said:
When wanting an XJ6, in my experience the thing to look for is a Mercedes.
Not trolling, just had bad experience with the quality.... I am sure others will have has the equal and opposite experience with Mercedes and will be along to correct me shortly!
I hd a 2005 X350 that was a disastrous wallet-raping money pit, but I'd still sooner have another XJ than a Merc. If my wallet has to be raped (and it seems it does) I'd rather a Jag did it :-) Not trolling, just had bad experience with the quality.... I am sure others will have has the equal and opposite experience with Mercedes and will be along to correct me shortly!
The 3.2 and 4 litre XJ40s and X300s are incredible value right now. They're very robust, lacking the complex electricals of later cars and need far less attention than the Series I-III cars. They're far cheaper too, so for any given price you get a better car.
I am assuming when you say an XJ6 you are looking for the X300 shape Jaguars, facelifted to look a little like the original Series I-III, than the squarer cut XJ40?
I have had an XJ40 for a long time now. Late XJ40s like mine are very similar to the X300 and share most of their strengths and weaknesses, though the '40 is perhaps slightly less reliable and a bit more charismatic.
The 4 litre is preferable, if you can find a good one. It has very strong, effortless performance. The 3.2 is also a decent performer, though lacks the torque of the 4 litre and is no more economical. Don’t discount a good 3.2, but really the 4 litre is the one to have.
XJ6s do handle surprisingly well - particularly on bumpy roads, but fast driving isn't what the XJ is all about, at least not for me. I find mine is a relaxed and relaxing cruiser at its best, and any competitiveness I sometimes feel when driving the BMW I also use falls away in the Jag, replaced by an enormous sense of well being. My '40 feels 'special' somehow in a way almost nothing else I have travelled in can rival. Maybe it is my lack of aggression when driving it, but bizarrely I find this relaxed approach seems to spread to other road users. I find I am far more likely to be let out of a side road in the XJ than I am in the BMW E91 I also use.
The X300 (and XJ40) are robust, reliable cars which means a good one shouldn't be expensive to run, particularly if you do the work yourself. They're good cars for DIY - much better than the later (much more modern and complex) V8 in this regard.
The AJ6/AJ16 six cylinder engine is particularly long lived and untroublesome, so much so that there is little market for them secondhand – they will almost always outlast the body of the car and are tolerant of bad servicing. The transmission is the ZF4HP24 on the 4 litre and the ZF 4HP22 on the 3.2. Both are very long lived units in the XJ6, though not the last word in smooth changes when compared to the latest ZF autoboxes – or the ZF 5HP used in the XJ8. What they lack in sophistication, they make up for in strength!!
Differentials can become noisy on some cars, but provided you can live with the noise, they carry on going. As Jaguar Steve says in his super comprehensive X308 post, the XJ is a heavy car and suspension wear is something to look out for. Either the XJ40 or the X300 should ride well, with the XJ40 particularly compliant on 15” wheels. It should run straight with little or no tramlining and the suspension should be quiet, without any clonks. Look at the front tyres. Wear on the inside of these can mean suspension work will be needed. Check the seller has not been naughty and switched the front tyres to the back too – to disguise uneven wear at the front. The brakes should pull the car up straight and without drama.
Don't believe people who tell you the X300 doesn't rust! Rust is the main problem with them and kills most of them in the end. I’m not sure they are any more rust resistant than the XJ40 – and believe me they are talented rusters!
They can rust anywhere, but certain places are particularly prone.
On early cars check the rear wheel arches - it is not a cheap repair.
The bulkhead is prone to rust on the front seam and on the top of the plenum under the black plastic plenum cover. Any visible rust here will be much worse under the front wings. It is an expensive thing to repair.
The sill ends behind the front wheels can be very rusty, particularly on the inside face.
The sill to floor join on both sides can rust anywhere along its length.
The front floor on either side can rust.
The windscreen and rear screen apertures can rust.
Always check the front wheel arch behind the front shock absorber - some X300s can be very rotten here.
Major mechanicals and electrical systems are amongst the most robust on any car, though all sorts of strange electrical problems can flow from rusted earth points or water ingress on rusty cars.
Leather trim lasts well.
Buy the best car you can for your budget - you won't regret it! The X300 isn't expensive and you'll pour MUCH more than the difference in price between a good car and a 'fixer-upper' putting it right.
The X300 looks superficially very like the V8 engined X308, but is in reality fairly different from it and shares far more with the XJ40. Jaguar Steve has fully covered the X308 in far more detail than I ever could!!
I am assuming when you say an XJ6 you are looking for the X300 shape Jaguars, facelifted to look a little like the original Series I-III, than the squarer cut XJ40?
I have had an XJ40 for a long time now. Late XJ40s like mine are very similar to the X300 and share most of their strengths and weaknesses, though the '40 is perhaps slightly less reliable and a bit more charismatic.
The 4 litre is preferable, if you can find a good one. It has very strong, effortless performance. The 3.2 is also a decent performer, though lacks the torque of the 4 litre and is no more economical. Don’t discount a good 3.2, but really the 4 litre is the one to have.
XJ6s do handle surprisingly well - particularly on bumpy roads, but fast driving isn't what the XJ is all about, at least not for me. I find mine is a relaxed and relaxing cruiser at its best, and any competitiveness I sometimes feel when driving the BMW I also use falls away in the Jag, replaced by an enormous sense of well being. My '40 feels 'special' somehow in a way almost nothing else I have travelled in can rival. Maybe it is my lack of aggression when driving it, but bizarrely I find this relaxed approach seems to spread to other road users. I find I am far more likely to be let out of a side road in the XJ than I am in the BMW E91 I also use.
The X300 (and XJ40) are robust, reliable cars which means a good one shouldn't be expensive to run, particularly if you do the work yourself. They're good cars for DIY - much better than the later (much more modern and complex) V8 in this regard.
The AJ6/AJ16 six cylinder engine is particularly long lived and untroublesome, so much so that there is little market for them secondhand – they will almost always outlast the body of the car and are tolerant of bad servicing. The transmission is the ZF4HP24 on the 4 litre and the ZF 4HP22 on the 3.2. Both are very long lived units in the XJ6, though not the last word in smooth changes when compared to the latest ZF autoboxes – or the ZF 5HP used in the XJ8. What they lack in sophistication, they make up for in strength!!
Differentials can become noisy on some cars, but provided you can live with the noise, they carry on going. As Jaguar Steve says in his super comprehensive X308 post, the XJ is a heavy car and suspension wear is something to look out for. Either the XJ40 or the X300 should ride well, with the XJ40 particularly compliant on 15” wheels. It should run straight with little or no tramlining and the suspension should be quiet, without any clonks. Look at the front tyres. Wear on the inside of these can mean suspension work will be needed. Check the seller has not been naughty and switched the front tyres to the back too – to disguise uneven wear at the front. The brakes should pull the car up straight and without drama.
Don't believe people who tell you the X300 doesn't rust! Rust is the main problem with them and kills most of them in the end. I’m not sure they are any more rust resistant than the XJ40 – and believe me they are talented rusters!
They can rust anywhere, but certain places are particularly prone.
On early cars check the rear wheel arches - it is not a cheap repair.
The bulkhead is prone to rust on the front seam and on the top of the plenum under the black plastic plenum cover. Any visible rust here will be much worse under the front wings. It is an expensive thing to repair.
The sill ends behind the front wheels can be very rusty, particularly on the inside face.
The sill to floor join on both sides can rust anywhere along its length.
The front floor on either side can rust.
The windscreen and rear screen apertures can rust.
Always check the front wheel arch behind the front shock absorber - some X300s can be very rotten here.
Major mechanicals and electrical systems are amongst the most robust on any car, though all sorts of strange electrical problems can flow from rusted earth points or water ingress on rusty cars.
Leather trim lasts well.
Buy the best car you can for your budget - you won't regret it! The X300 isn't expensive and you'll pour MUCH more than the difference in price between a good car and a 'fixer-upper' putting it right.
The X300 looks superficially very like the V8 engined X308, but is in reality fairly different from it and shares far more with the XJ40. Jaguar Steve has fully covered the X308 in far more detail than I ever could!!
V8forweekends said:
Stuart70 said:
When wanting an XJ6, in my experience the thing to look for is a Mercedes.
Not trolling, just had bad experience with the quality.... I am sure others will have has the equal and opposite experience with Mercedes and will be along to correct me shortly!
I hd a 2005 X350 that was a disastrous wallet-raping money pit, but I'd still sooner have another XJ than a Merc. If my wallet has to be raped (and it seems it does) I'd rather a Jag did it :-) Not trolling, just had bad experience with the quality.... I am sure others will have has the equal and opposite experience with Mercedes and will be along to correct me shortly!
In reality I went for Golf GTI (fast white goods - little character but effective) and a Caterham 7 (character by the bucket, but not a wafting experience).
I was disappointed in my Jaguar experience, but can entirely understand the attraction and for those dedicated enough to get problems resolved (or lucky enough not to experience them) you have my admiration and jealousy!
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