Man paints his brake discs
Discussion
i painted the hubs section (i.e. not the friction face) of my spanky new discs with hammerite to stop them rusting, and installed them along with new pads and freshly painted calipers. i was dubious but everyone on the forum said it was fine...
Next day when they were dry, followed the proper bedding in procedure for Mintex M1144 pads which was a few slow speed stops and then a few high speed stops until brakes start to fade, and then leave overnight.
turns out the heat from braking melted the paint off my discs and sprayed it all my freshly painted calipers and the inside of the wheels!
Next day when they were dry, followed the proper bedding in procedure for Mintex M1144 pads which was a few slow speed stops and then a few high speed stops until brakes start to fade, and then leave overnight.
turns out the heat from braking melted the paint off my discs and sprayed it all my freshly painted calipers and the inside of the wheels!
skinny said:
i painted the hubs section (i.e. not the friction face) of my spanky new discs with hammerite
turns out the heat from braking melted the paint off my discs
The problem was not using high-temp paint on something that gets very hot, rather than using paint on the friction face.turns out the heat from braking melted the paint off my discs
TooMany2cvs said:
skinny said:
i painted the hubs section (i.e. not the friction face) of my spanky new discs with hammerite
turns out the heat from braking melted the paint off my discs
The problem was not using high-temp paint on something that gets very hot, rather than using paint on the friction face.turns out the heat from braking melted the paint off my discs
I fitted new disks on my 350Z last week and they came fully painted, the braking surface remained painted for 0.001 seconds after I applied the brake and is now some dust gracing the side of the A34 bypass.
As far as I am concerned, it is not an issue if its a thin layer of paint.
I think even the WD40 thing is probably not a problem, or the stuff they put on disks to stop them rusting in transit, I clean them with brake cleaner but I dont think it would be that disastrous if you didnt, not a lot will prevent a powerful hydraulic braking system from doing its job of clamping the friction material to a disk, after all it destroys the pad and disk eventually so a few microns of WD40 wont last long.
As far as I am concerned, it is not an issue if its a thin layer of paint.
I think even the WD40 thing is probably not a problem, or the stuff they put on disks to stop them rusting in transit, I clean them with brake cleaner but I dont think it would be that disastrous if you didnt, not a lot will prevent a powerful hydraulic braking system from doing its job of clamping the friction material to a disk, after all it destroys the pad and disk eventually so a few microns of WD40 wont last long.
J4CKO said:
As far as I am concerned, it is not an issue if its a thin layer of paint.
I don't have a problem with disc manufacturers painting their discs, I assume they know what they are doing. My worry is a bloke with a rattle-can spraying who-knows-what onto the discs and then having to brake in a hurry.Trevor450 said:
EBC USR discs come painted. It wears off the first time the brakes are applied.
Yep, i fitted 4 EBC discs to an astra last week, the black paint dissapeared after literly turning the car around to get to the other side (bowt 3 seconds of light brake application), it stayed in the grooves for a day or so before the heat burnt it off.Use this and there should be no problem with the heat.
http://www.vhtpaint.com/products/caliperpaint/
http://www.vhtpaint.com/products/caliperpaint/
Some years ago now I decided my Clio needed upgraded brakes. I had managed to cook them a couple of times in my youthful exuberance. New solid discs and new fluid may have solved the problem, the addition of Mintex brake pads certainly would... but I was young, and drilled and vented discs would look awesome behind my standard 14" steel wheels (in my defense it was the only modification I ever made to my first car apart from a mild stereo upgrade)
So the box arrives from 'Black Diamond' and I hurriedly set about fitting the new 'fast road' discs and pads. The discs were painted black but the literature said that this wouldn't affect the performance as it would soon clean off.
So, down the road I shoot, excited to experience the performance of my new brakes. When I pushed the pedal, though, there was a huge amount of black dust billowing out of the front wheels and not a lot of deceleration at all. It was a bit of a heart-in-mouth moment but I did get is stopped and once thoroughly bedded in my new brakes were amazing (if a little noisy with high speed use).
So the box arrives from 'Black Diamond' and I hurriedly set about fitting the new 'fast road' discs and pads. The discs were painted black but the literature said that this wouldn't affect the performance as it would soon clean off.
So, down the road I shoot, excited to experience the performance of my new brakes. When I pushed the pedal, though, there was a huge amount of black dust billowing out of the front wheels and not a lot of deceleration at all. It was a bit of a heart-in-mouth moment but I did get is stopped and once thoroughly bedded in my new brakes were amazing (if a little noisy with high speed use).
I've done this loads of times. I hate rusty calipers and disc centres (and edges for that matter). It just makes any car look old and s
t when the brakes are rusty.
I've done it with Hammerite in the past. I've never had that issue described about with it melting off - and I drive enthusiastically. The reason I decided to abandon Hammerite is because it discolours with the heat. It's ok if you used black Hammerite, but silver starts to turn golden brown after some hard use.
I use aerosol high-temperature engine paint now. I had some left over from some engine rebuild work I'd done so used it when fitting new discs and pads. Degrease new discs, clean calipers, mask off moving parts/bleed nipples/hose etc if you don't want to remove the calipers or just get them off the car. Apply a couple of light coats with the aerosol which offers good opacity and coverage. Give it a couple of hours to dry, and after a 5 minute road test, all the paint on the friction surfaces has gone. There is no noticeable difference in braking performance (in the context of bedding in new discs and pads anyway) and months later my car looks as fresh now as it did at the time - unlike bare discs which are rusty a week after fitting and the car looks like scrap metal.
t when the brakes are rusty.I've done it with Hammerite in the past. I've never had that issue described about with it melting off - and I drive enthusiastically. The reason I decided to abandon Hammerite is because it discolours with the heat. It's ok if you used black Hammerite, but silver starts to turn golden brown after some hard use.
I use aerosol high-temperature engine paint now. I had some left over from some engine rebuild work I'd done so used it when fitting new discs and pads. Degrease new discs, clean calipers, mask off moving parts/bleed nipples/hose etc if you don't want to remove the calipers or just get them off the car. Apply a couple of light coats with the aerosol which offers good opacity and coverage. Give it a couple of hours to dry, and after a 5 minute road test, all the paint on the friction surfaces has gone. There is no noticeable difference in braking performance (in the context of bedding in new discs and pads anyway) and months later my car looks as fresh now as it did at the time - unlike bare discs which are rusty a week after fitting and the car looks like scrap metal.
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