Paint work just starying to bubble
Discussion
Most likely the rust will go all the way through - usually what happens is it starts to rust from the inside, then only starts to bubble the paint when the rust eats all the way through and reaches the outside. If that's the case, you'll need to cut out the section and get it welded up.
OP take a picture. It might just be moisture thats getting between the panel and paint, either way it needs fixing properly.
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Thanks I'll take a picture tomorrow. I think it is moisture getting between the panel and the paint though. How would you recommend stopping this from getting any worse or removing the bubbling. Suppose it will be easier for you to say when I get a picture uploaded.
It will probably need stripping to bare metal and working up from there.
Sometimes paint can be ok for ages, but under certain conditions problems can surface, look at this: http://www.ferdinandmagazine.com/porsche-classic-p...
Its covering the car up that caused that. If he had left it with no cover on it would have been fine.
Sometimes microblisters will disappear if the car is left in warm sunshine for a while but they will probably come back.
Sometimes paint can be ok for ages, but under certain conditions problems can surface, look at this: http://www.ferdinandmagazine.com/porsche-classic-p...
Its covering the car up that caused that. If he had left it with no cover on it would have been fine.
Sometimes microblisters will disappear if the car is left in warm sunshine for a while but they will probably come back.
Crafty_ said:
It will probably need stripping to bare metal and working up from there.
Sometimes paint can be ok for ages, but under certain conditions problems can surface, look at this: http://www.ferdinandmagazine.com/porsche-classic-p...
Its covering the car up that caused that. If he had left it with no cover on it would have been fine.
Sometimes microblisters will disappear if the car is left in warm sunshine for a while but they will probably come back.
Thanks so you mean sanding back to bare metal rust converter if needed then re-spray?Sometimes paint can be ok for ages, but under certain conditions problems can surface, look at this: http://www.ferdinandmagazine.com/porsche-classic-p...
Its covering the car up that caused that. If he had left it with no cover on it would have been fine.
Sometimes microblisters will disappear if the car is left in warm sunshine for a while but they will probably come back.
It depends whats under there, but back to bare, clean metal. The problem with rust converters and stuff like that is apart from a few they usually have nasty chemicals in, they can cause a reaction with paints and primers later on, which can also cause blisters.
If there is rust it needs to be removed by grinding/wire wheel etc. If its proper clean metal you can then use something like an epoxy primer, which will act as a sealer. If this goes on in a dry environment the rust shouldn't re-occur.
basically you need to find a good bodyshop to sort it out.
If there is rust it needs to be removed by grinding/wire wheel etc. If its proper clean metal you can then use something like an epoxy primer, which will act as a sealer. If this goes on in a dry environment the rust shouldn't re-occur.
basically you need to find a good bodyshop to sort it out.
Tomsim said:
It's were the trim on the top of the front windscreen meets the paintwork on the roof of the car.
I can guarantee, sight unseen, that the problem is a lot worse than it appears. Sorry.You could remove the bubbling paint (it only serves to retain water underneath it, i.e. making the hole larger quicker) and apply some rust converter stuff. Then apply liberal amounts of something like cavity wax. Or be imaginative, because it is very likely that you will find a through-perforation. The preceding applies for all areas underneath the windscreen seal, where possible to access.
If you have a hole and it's not worth properly repairing, don't laugh but self adhesive flashband is one of the best things to use to bridge it and seal it. Perhaps your car is already silver, too...
Looks like it may have just run from under the rubber trip strip, so may not have perforated the metal.
I had an old Manta years ago, and the double skinned rear wheel arch was a pain and rotted from behind. I had it sprayed and within a week it was bubbling again.
The roof panel around the sunroof used to rot from the inside out as well, not much that you can do if it rots from behind other than cut out the affected sections.
I had an old Manta years ago, and the double skinned rear wheel arch was a pain and rotted from behind. I had it sprayed and within a week it was bubbling again.
The roof panel around the sunroof used to rot from the inside out as well, not much that you can do if it rots from behind other than cut out the affected sections.
The only way to stop it would be to sand it back, treat it and repaint. It will only continue to get worse/spread otherwise.
I have attempted painting using spray cans and airbrushes most recently to fix a 5p size mark on my TVR front wing about a month ago. I ended up giving it to a professional in the end, it cost £225 but was much less hassle than spending another day trying to do it myself.
I have attempted painting using spray cans and airbrushes most recently to fix a 5p size mark on my TVR front wing about a month ago. I ended up giving it to a professional in the end, it cost £225 but was much less hassle than spending another day trying to do it myself.
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