RE: BMW M3 (E30): PH Carpool
Discussion
theholygrail said:
Great write up about a great looking car. Never driven one of these but after reading that would love to. I remember one of these being comprehensively beaten around a track by the previous Fiesta ST on 5th Gear, driven by Tiff, which left me (and the presenters) rather lost for words! On the other hand I was "in convoy" with one not long ago on an A road, in my Griffith, and it had no trouble at all keeping up, so I can only assume the Fiesta is a little bit nifty!
This article also makes me jealous of people who live in places like Cornwall or Wales!
Was wondering if you are able to recall the episode where the e30 is beaten on Fifth Gear, what series is it from? Sadly the roads in Cornwall aren't that great, especially in comparison with Wales but we have a few gems. Personally I find the old coast road from St.Ives is far too narrow to really enjoy in a car but must be a dream for bikers.This article also makes me jealous of people who live in places like Cornwall or Wales!
E30M3SE said:
Funny looking Focus ST! Hence why I would be interested to see if the real thing did exist.
Freegs said:
E30M3SE said:
Funny looking Focus ST! Hence why I would be interested to see if the real thing did exist.http://youtu.be/DaK7KhQADSs
It was a Cooper S and Colt CZT
For a more modern comparison ( Golf Gti and Toyota GT86 ) this is a nice video to watch
10 minutes long though
http://youtu.be/X3_nYbojfow
Edited by s m on Wednesday 19th November 11:30
The default cams for fast road type use are 284 intake/276 exhaust. A word of warning; If timed at the Schrick recommended timing of 106deg (slotted cam gears needed), there is a good chance of the valves getting too close to the pistons, the spec'd piston to valve clearance is 1.5 mm intake and 1.8mm exhaust. If the head has been skimmed in the past, then there is more chance of piston valve contact. Some folks say they have had no issues, some have had issues on the exhaust side.
Some folks advance the exhaust cam and retard the intake cam for less lift at TDC, but this is sub optimal for performance. The best bet is to change the pistons for something with larger valve cut outs, or have the pistons machined.
It is recommended that you fit the Evo3 valve springs with yellow/red paint id with higher lift cams.
If your car is '89 on model, you will have a 264 intake cam which you can swap to the exhaust and add a 284 to the intake.
Stand alone EMS is better than the A/N units as you can map your ignition much easier. My advice would be fine a place who you trust and fit whatever EMS they recommend as access to knowledgeable installer is priceless.
Installation can be quite complicated, depending on how far you wish to go. I went with Motec M800 with Knock control, coil on plug, sequential injection, running my oil light, oil temp, engine temp gauges off ECU outputs. It was quite complicated!
Most after market EMS will not read the standard S14 engine speed/position sensors, so you will need to manufacture a solution for this. Cam position (needed for CoP and sequential injection) can be achieved by using BMW S38-B38 M5 engine parts.
Some folks advance the exhaust cam and retard the intake cam for less lift at TDC, but this is sub optimal for performance. The best bet is to change the pistons for something with larger valve cut outs, or have the pistons machined.
It is recommended that you fit the Evo3 valve springs with yellow/red paint id with higher lift cams.
If your car is '89 on model, you will have a 264 intake cam which you can swap to the exhaust and add a 284 to the intake.
Stand alone EMS is better than the A/N units as you can map your ignition much easier. My advice would be fine a place who you trust and fit whatever EMS they recommend as access to knowledgeable installer is priceless.
Installation can be quite complicated, depending on how far you wish to go. I went with Motec M800 with Knock control, coil on plug, sequential injection, running my oil light, oil temp, engine temp gauges off ECU outputs. It was quite complicated!
Most after market EMS will not read the standard S14 engine speed/position sensors, so you will need to manufacture a solution for this. Cam position (needed for CoP and sequential injection) can be achieved by using BMW S38-B38 M5 engine parts.
Edited by stevesingo on Sunday 23 November 10:16
stevesingo said:
The default cams for fast road type use are 284 intake/276 exhaust. A word of warning; If timed at the Schrick recommended timing of 106deg (slotted cam gears needed), there is a good chance of the valves getting too close to the pistons, the spec'd piston to valve clearance is 1.5 mm intake and 1.8mm exhaust. If the head has been skimmed in the past, then there is more chance of piston valve contact. Some folks say they have had no issues, some have had issues on the exhaust side.
Some folks advance the exhaust cam and retard the intake cam for less lift at TDC, but this is sub optimal for performance. The best bet is to change the pistons for something with larger valve cut outs, or have the pistons machined.
It is recommended that you fit the Evo3 valve springs with yellow/red paint id with higher lift cams.
If your car is '89 on model, you will have a 264 intake cam which you can swap to the exhaust and add a 284 to the intake.
Stand alone EMS is better than the A/N units as you can map your ignition much easier. My advice would be fine a place who you trust and fit whatever EMS they recommend as access to knowledgeable installer is priceless.
Installation can be quite complicated, depending on how far you wish to go. I went with Motec M800 with Knock control, coil on plug, sequential injection, running my oil light, oil temp, engine temp gauges off ECU outputs. It was quite complicated!
Most after market EMS will not read the standard S14 engine speed/position sensors, so you will need to manufacture a solution for this. Cam position (needed for CoP and sequential injection) can be achieved by using BMW S38-B38 M5 engine parts.
Thanks Steve, I appreciate your input. I have DTA Fast Pro 90 and was considering using this to replace the Alpha N? Mine is a 1990 car, so I guess the hunt is on for a 264 deg' intake cam.Some folks advance the exhaust cam and retard the intake cam for less lift at TDC, but this is sub optimal for performance. The best bet is to change the pistons for something with larger valve cut outs, or have the pistons machined.
It is recommended that you fit the Evo3 valve springs with yellow/red paint id with higher lift cams.
If your car is '89 on model, you will have a 264 intake cam which you can swap to the exhaust and add a 284 to the intake.
Stand alone EMS is better than the A/N units as you can map your ignition much easier. My advice would be fine a place who you trust and fit whatever EMS they recommend as access to knowledgeable installer is priceless.
Installation can be quite complicated, depending on how far you wish to go. I went with Motec M800 with Knock control, coil on plug, sequential injection, running my oil light, oil temp, engine temp gauges off ECU outputs. It was quite complicated!
Most after market EMS will not read the standard S14 engine speed/position sensors, so you will need to manufacture a solution for this. Cam position (needed for CoP and sequential injection) can be achieved by using BMW S38-B38 M5 engine parts.
Edited by stevesingo on Sunday 23 November 10:16
Have decided to tidy up the interior of the M3 and have the cage welded in place, as opposed to simply bolting.
I thought about re fitting carpet but instead the floors will be repainted. I'm going to flock the dash and centre console and ditch any switches and wiring that's no longer required, such as the heated seat switches. The seats themselves are Ridgards and really comfortable. I'm a bit of a lump but the driver seat fits me really well. They're going off to Inspire Automotive to be reupholstered in charcoal grey alcantara. I might replace the old harnesses with some new, wide ones. I like Safety Devices harness and have them in my e21 but I'm not sure if they're available in red? The final job will be to install an electrical cut-out switch and an extinguisher, as I intend on doing a few speed events next year.
I've also been toying with the idea of having a period livery (in vinyl, so easily removed) ready for next years sprint events.
I thought about re fitting carpet but instead the floors will be repainted. I'm going to flock the dash and centre console and ditch any switches and wiring that's no longer required, such as the heated seat switches. The seats themselves are Ridgards and really comfortable. I'm a bit of a lump but the driver seat fits me really well. They're going off to Inspire Automotive to be reupholstered in charcoal grey alcantara. I might replace the old harnesses with some new, wide ones. I like Safety Devices harness and have them in my e21 but I'm not sure if they're available in red? The final job will be to install an electrical cut-out switch and an extinguisher, as I intend on doing a few speed events next year.
I've also been toying with the idea of having a period livery (in vinyl, so easily removed) ready for next years sprint events.
I thought I would update this thread, for those who might be interested.
Although a solid example, the interior was starting to look a little tired and the cage had never been fitted very well (by a previous owner), with very little in the way of floor strengthening. Had I ever rolled it, it would have most likely just punched straight through the floorpan. So, with the help of Avers Racing here in Cornwall, I made a list of jobs to have sorted.
1. Remove and repair any remaining corrosion to the floor
2. Clean, prime and re-paint floor.
3. Remove and re-fit the cage, along with new strengthening plates. Also re-fit the driver side door bar.
4. Fit passenger side Ridgard race seat and harness.
5. Remove and flock dash and centre console.
6. Replace steering wheel & snap off boss.
7. Remove and repair carbon fibre spoilers.
8. Repair weep from PAS hose.
9. Replace corroded fuel pipe running beneath floor pan.
The crazed carbonfibre splitter and gurney flap look 'as new' again, after careful sanding and clear coat. I'd considered replacing them but at £500+ I figured we should attempt to repair instead.
The floor is solid and looks so much better now. Added bonus is the cage shouldn't punch through if the worst should happen.
We also replaced the corroded fuel lines. Fortunately still available from BMW and not too spiteful price wise.
Recent upgrades include a stud conversion, Tarox 6 pot brakes & DS2500 pads. The brakes are awesome now and really inspire confidence.
I plan to have the body wrapped in the Bastos livery prior to the Crystal Palace sprint in May. I'd really like the whole car painted and a non sunroof panel fitted. Ideally a full Group A cage and painted white too, but I have some serious saving to do first.
Although a solid example, the interior was starting to look a little tired and the cage had never been fitted very well (by a previous owner), with very little in the way of floor strengthening. Had I ever rolled it, it would have most likely just punched straight through the floorpan. So, with the help of Avers Racing here in Cornwall, I made a list of jobs to have sorted.
1. Remove and repair any remaining corrosion to the floor
2. Clean, prime and re-paint floor.
3. Remove and re-fit the cage, along with new strengthening plates. Also re-fit the driver side door bar.
4. Fit passenger side Ridgard race seat and harness.
5. Remove and flock dash and centre console.
6. Replace steering wheel & snap off boss.
7. Remove and repair carbon fibre spoilers.
8. Repair weep from PAS hose.
9. Replace corroded fuel pipe running beneath floor pan.
The crazed carbonfibre splitter and gurney flap look 'as new' again, after careful sanding and clear coat. I'd considered replacing them but at £500+ I figured we should attempt to repair instead.
The floor is solid and looks so much better now. Added bonus is the cage shouldn't punch through if the worst should happen.
We also replaced the corroded fuel lines. Fortunately still available from BMW and not too spiteful price wise.
Recent upgrades include a stud conversion, Tarox 6 pot brakes & DS2500 pads. The brakes are awesome now and really inspire confidence.
I plan to have the body wrapped in the Bastos livery prior to the Crystal Palace sprint in May. I'd really like the whole car painted and a non sunroof panel fitted. Ideally a full Group A cage and painted white too, but I have some serious saving to do first.
Had some bad luck today. Went to Bristol and was rear ended on the slip road leaving the M5. Impact forced me into the car in front, so damage both ends. At first glance it didn't appear to be too bad, but closer inspection showed quite a lot of damage. I've been recovered back home, as the grill was smashed back into the rad and cooling fan, but hopefully it'll go for repair next week.
e21Mark said:
Had some bad luck today. Went to Bristol and was rear ended on the slip road leaving the M5. Impact forced me into the car in front, so damage both ends. At first glance it didn't appear to be too bad, but closer inspection showed quite a lot of damage. I've been recovered back home, as the grill was smashed back into the rad and cooling fan, but hopefully it'll go for repair next week.
My worst nightmare, right there. Hope it's not all too badly damaged.Gassing Station | General Gassing | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff