MOT and the EML?
Discussion
Claudia Skies said:
Limpet said:
Mind you, it seems a bit daft to have a warning light in the test that you can just pull the bulb out of to get a pass.
I'm not sure that's right. These days the tester is supposed to check to make sure all the warning lights illuminate in the right sequence/for the right length of time.Toaster Pilot said:
Don't need to pay for dealer diagnostics either, just find someone with decent kit that knows how to properly diagnose a fault not just put parts on according to the code.
Anyone that knows how to diagnose properly with the required kit will want paid, it only stands to reason. Claudia Skies said:
I'm not sure that's right. These days the tester is supposed to check to make sure all the warning lights illuminate in the right sequence/for the right length of time.
We don't check sequences anymore, some lights are supposed to light up, go out and not be lit so as to indicate a fault with their respective system, you can wire your ABS light into your oil pressure light, which would fulfill the light up and go out requirement.
Other lights such as the SRS light is just not required to be lit so as to indicate a fault. As a tester we have to be reasonably sure that an illuminated light is showing a fault. Some SRS lights will illuminate to show that the passenger airbag has been switched off - which is not a fault.
A tyre pressure warning light may be lit, if it's lit to indicate a low tyre pressure then it's not a system fault as it's doing what it should be doing.
Toaster Pilot said:
Obviously, but you don't need to go to a main dealer!!
Equally obviously, the true "all makes" mechanic/technician/garage simply doesn't exist. It makes perfect sense to take a car to the relevant main dealer when you want diagnostics on a car which they know all about. Amongst other things, they will have the latest software releases from the manufacturer.Claudia Skies said:
Equally obviously, the true "all makes" mechanic/technician/garage simply doesn't exist. It makes perfect sense to take a car to the relevant main dealer when you want diagnostics on a car which they know all about. Amongst other things, they will have the latest software releases from the manufacturer.
There are plenty of all makes garages, I work in one.If the garage are incapable of diagnosing a fault like this, find another one. It's not exactly a complex system and a monkey with a scope and the internet should be able to find out what is wrong inside an hour.
mcford said:
It may seem inconsistent but it is by the book and the way that it should be done.
Hopefully your tester will have a bit of common sense with regard to that the seats dictate the seat belt requirements. A grey area that I forsee is if any SRS components were originally fitted to the now removed seats as that's technically a fail.
Seats and seatbelts are mounted correctly, and all airbags are connected up. Airbag light comes on and goes out as normal. I know the tester, and have run it past him in advance. He doesn't foresee any issues as long as the above is the case.Hopefully your tester will have a bit of common sense with regard to that the seats dictate the seat belt requirements. A grey area that I forsee is if any SRS components were originally fitted to the now removed seats as that's technically a fail.
12 years ago I had a station fail an Audi 80 I had as the ABS light on the dash lit as per usual, but didn't go out in the 2 seconds it should, instead taking 4 seconds!!
The ABS light was not lit when driving , this is just the run through when you start the ignition, they argued that they have a manual that tells them the exact routine and seconds that the relevant warning lights should go out and mine was 2 seconds too long.... They reckoned the previous owner wired it to the oil pump...
Not only that, there was a huge switch on the dash to turn the ABS off if you didn't want it anyway!
Took it to another garage and it passed straightaway
The ABS light was not lit when driving , this is just the run through when you start the ignition, they argued that they have a manual that tells them the exact routine and seconds that the relevant warning lights should go out and mine was 2 seconds too long.... They reckoned the previous owner wired it to the oil pump...
Not only that, there was a huge switch on the dash to turn the ABS off if you didn't want it anyway!
Took it to another garage and it passed straightaway
Claudia Skies said:
Equally obviously, the true "all makes" mechanic/technician/garage simply doesn't exist. It makes perfect sense to take a car to the relevant main dealer when you want diagnostics on a car which they know all about. Amongst other things, they will have the latest software releases from the manufacturer.
Know all about? Forgotten all about more like when you're talking about a 12 year old car they haven't sold new for at least 7 of those!The car that is the subject of this thread is now mine - I'm going to try to fix it up and get it through the MOT.
I've only just bought it and driven it nearly 100 miles to my workshop (drove like there's nothing wrong) - will report my findings when I actually start diagnosis
imagineifyeswill said:
EML light isnt an MOT fail, the light on quite possibly is a wiring fault there is a well known fault with the wiring loom round the steering column on Almera,s requires a part loom replacement by Nissan, expensive I would just ignore it.
Unfortunately it's not just an EML on for no reason - it failed quite badly on emissions and smells rich when running like the cat isn't even fitted.I've only just bought it and driven it nearly 100 miles to my workshop (drove like there's nothing wrong) - will report my findings when I actually start diagnosis
Toaster Pilot said:
Unfortunately it's not just an EML on for no reason - it failed quite badly on emissions and smells rich when running like the cat isn't even fitted.
I've only just bought it and driven it nearly 100 miles to my workshop (drove like there's nothing wrong) - will report my findings when I actually start diagnosis
Glad it got you home. I never doubted it. I've only just bought it and driven it nearly 100 miles to my workshop (drove like there's nothing wrong) - will report my findings when I actually start diagnosis
Good luck with it, pleasure to meet you.
Fault code is P0031 O2 Sensor Heater (B1S1).
Both sensors and the cat were replaced last year to get super high emissions (CO, HC and Lambda) down within the MOT limits
MOT failure sheet for this year indicates the emissions are very high on all counts again.
I'm going to swap the sensors to see if the code moves to the other bank before going down the wiring troubleshooting route. Have Nissan service manual which has a pretty good fault finding process
Any input welcome based on my current findings
Both sensors and the cat were replaced last year to get super high emissions (CO, HC and Lambda) down within the MOT limits
MOT failure sheet for this year indicates the emissions are very high on all counts again.
I'm going to swap the sensors to see if the code moves to the other bank before going down the wiring troubleshooting route. Have Nissan service manual which has a pretty good fault finding process
Any input welcome based on my current findings
Front sensor is faulty - moving it to the post cat position moved the fault code too. The cat is noticeably hotter and the exhaust smell is a lot less rich at idle.
The EML didn't actually come back on but the fault code for the 2nd sensor is present. Going to put in some cataclean tonight and take it for a hard drive before its MOT tomorrow!
The EML didn't actually come back on but the fault code for the 2nd sensor is present. Going to put in some cataclean tonight and take it for a hard drive before its MOT tomorrow!
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