How long before new tyres reach optimum grip?
Discussion
TobyLaRohne said:
BritishRacinGrin said:
In this thread it has been suggested that new tyres need running in for 'a couple of hundred miles' .....
Not by you and thats not what you said, YOU said it was a myth outright and that you dont need to do it nowadays, you did NOT say as you are trying to assert, that after 500 miles you said you wouldnt need to worry about it...(bait set...waits for a nibble)
New car tyres do not need "running in" or "bedding in" or any other sort of "xxxx in".
Think about it . . . even if there was a gloopy release agent on the tyre how long would it take to wear it off ? A mile, maybe two . . . but there isn't any. When did you last look at a new tyres which had a slimy, oily covering ? That's right, I've not seen one either !
I have a TR7, with 13" wheels.
None of the performance tyre companies produce anything with any grip for 13" wheels today. I have an 8 with 15" wheels which is not as nice to drive on bumpy country back roads as the 7, so I want to keep the 13s on it.
The local tyre outlet I have some respect for, recommended Kumho as the best thing available for 13" wheels, so I has a set fitted. The car wandered around all over the place for about 75 kilometres, as the pimples wore off. [no corners].
Now bedded in they feel much more understeery than the Pirellis it had, or the Michelins on the 8. However the thing goes round corners every bit as well as it did, & quicker than the 8 on bumpier roads.
It is probably a lack of sharp turn in response, that gives the feel that it is going to understeer. It hasn't & I am noticing it less as I get used to them.
None of the performance tyre companies produce anything with any grip for 13" wheels today. I have an 8 with 15" wheels which is not as nice to drive on bumpy country back roads as the 7, so I want to keep the 13s on it.
The local tyre outlet I have some respect for, recommended Kumho as the best thing available for 13" wheels, so I has a set fitted. The car wandered around all over the place for about 75 kilometres, as the pimples wore off. [no corners].
Now bedded in they feel much more understeery than the Pirellis it had, or the Michelins on the 8. However the thing goes round corners every bit as well as it did, & quicker than the 8 on bumpier roads.
It is probably a lack of sharp turn in response, that gives the feel that it is going to understeer. It hasn't & I am noticing it less as I get used to them.
It would appear that the AA and some tyre fitters suggest 150-200 miles.
First, there's the mould release agent, and while it may not be visible it's there, usually stuck in the vent pores of the rubber. Only when the tyre is put under load will it come out (and you'll notice it more in the wet).
Second, and something that's often overlooked - the surface of a new tyre is smooth, so you need to roughen it up before it will start gripping properly.
If you still have problems at 500 miles then it's most likely down to other factors.
First, there's the mould release agent, and while it may not be visible it's there, usually stuck in the vent pores of the rubber. Only when the tyre is put under load will it come out (and you'll notice it more in the wet).
Second, and something that's often overlooked - the surface of a new tyre is smooth, so you need to roughen it up before it will start gripping properly.
If you still have problems at 500 miles then it's most likely down to other factors.
Monty Python said:
It would appear that the AA and some tyre fitters suggest 150-200 miles.
First, there's the mould release agent, and while it may not be visible it's there, usually stuck in the vent pores of the rubber. Only when the tyre is put under load will it come out (and you'll notice it more in the wet).
Second, and something that's often overlooked - the surface of a new tyre is smooth, so you need to roughen it up before it will start gripping properly.
If you still have problems at 500 miles then it's most likely down to other factors.
We get the same "suggestion" with motorbike tyres, don't lean too hard on them for 50 miles etc. It's bks. Give it a mile and they're fine. Read this to understand why: http://automotive.ing.unibs.it/~gadola/Michelin/GR...First, there's the mould release agent, and while it may not be visible it's there, usually stuck in the vent pores of the rubber. Only when the tyre is put under load will it come out (and you'll notice it more in the wet).
Second, and something that's often overlooked - the surface of a new tyre is smooth, so you need to roughen it up before it will start gripping properly.
If you still have problems at 500 miles then it's most likely down to other factors.
Hasbeen said:
I have a TR7, with 13" wheels.
None of the performance tyre companies produce anything with any grip for 13" wheels today. I have an 8 with 15" wheels which is not as nice to drive on bumpy country back roads as the 7, so I want to keep the 13s on it.
The local tyre outlet I have some respect for, recommended Kumho as the best thing available for 13" wheels, so I has a set fitted. The car wandered around all over the place for about 75 kilometres, as the pimples wore off. [no corners].
Now bedded in they feel much more understeery than the Pirellis it had, or the Michelins on the 8. However the thing goes round corners every bit as well as it did, & quicker than the 8 on bumpier roads.
It is probably a lack of sharp turn in response, that gives the feel that it is going to understeer. It hasn't & I am noticing it less as I get used to them.
Most Sprint/Hillclimb cars have 13" wheels, look at the Westfield forum for a start, more grip than you can imagine.None of the performance tyre companies produce anything with any grip for 13" wheels today. I have an 8 with 15" wheels which is not as nice to drive on bumpy country back roads as the 7, so I want to keep the 13s on it.
The local tyre outlet I have some respect for, recommended Kumho as the best thing available for 13" wheels, so I has a set fitted. The car wandered around all over the place for about 75 kilometres, as the pimples wore off. [no corners].
Now bedded in they feel much more understeery than the Pirellis it had, or the Michelins on the 8. However the thing goes round corners every bit as well as it did, & quicker than the 8 on bumpier roads.
It is probably a lack of sharp turn in response, that gives the feel that it is going to understeer. It hasn't & I am noticing it less as I get used to them.
Hasbeen, my Caterham used to run 185/60r13 Yokohama a539, I raced on these tyres in all conditions and they're communicative and in my opinion provide enough grip for circa 190bhp/ton. The car was quite neutral on them and the steering felt nice and direct. These are the tyres I was talking about when I mentioned starting wet races on brand new shiny sets, I used a buffed set for dry races.
In my experience you always need to run in new tyres.
http://www.bathwicktyres.co.uk/running-in-new-tyre...
http://www.bathwicktyres.co.uk/running-in-new-tyre...
Quoting the owners manual for my car...
BMW Online Edition for Part no. 01 40 2 903 032 - 07 12 490 said:
Due to technical factors associated with their manufacture, tires do not achieve their full traction potential until after an initial breaking-in period. Drive conservatively for the first 200 miles/300 km.
I put on some used winter tyres and they took a while to bed in - the first 50 miles or so I was getting poor traction moving off damp and dry surfaces (i.e. getting wasted by a Mercedes C-class diesels in an M3). Once I had 'run them in' they worked fine. It seems like the surface rubber gets a bit manky after sitting in a garage for a year or so ..
Edited by fido on Monday 5th February 13:44
More to it than release agent I think, the tyre will start of with a smooth microscopic surface coming out of the mould, only after a bit of abrasion with the road surface will it become pitted and scuffed, microscopically, which will increase traction ultimately to the optimum.
I may be talking bks here though...
I may be talking bks here though...
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