New car paint protection

[magno]

Mopar440 said:

Bullst.

Wrong. Depending on the paint system it can take 3 weeks to harden sufficiently for service. Sometimes more. Heat has little to do with hardening and more to do with throughput and the quality of finish. Humidity is the key.

[After_Shock]

Warmfuzzies said:

I spend less time when I do wash, and the paint is less scratched as a result.

K.

But it still does get scratched when washing which is the issue with the likes of gtechniq for people who are obsessive about the paint appearance. I agree its a very good product and probably should be what the dealers offer as it genuinely works and lasts a good time. Most people aren't bothered by swirls, holograms etc however for me and many others the likes of gtechniq is not much use as I would end up having to strip it off to repair marks in the paint and then re-apply it.

As with any product it has its place in the market.

[bunyarra]

robdcfc said:

Modern paints are NOT fully cured at that point, they take several weeks to fully cure as the solvent needs to gas off.

Unless you'd like to disagree with Jaguar's senior bodyshop paint engineer, you are wrong. Just had my car front resprayed by the dealer under Jaguar supervision. He confirmed that the OEM approved paint process leaves the paint ready for surface treatments immediately - no gassing etc. This was in contrast to the bodyshop manager who tried to tell me I had to wait 3 months.

[P13TR0]

This is bringing up more questions than answers. Crystal serum has only been on the market since 2014, so there are not many people with experience of maintaining the ceramic coating over a longer period of time.

The finish on the cars I have seen detailed with serum and exo is fantastic and in theory the 9h layer should resist light scratches and swirls.

My two primary concerns outlined in the first post still stand, however, if you think this is snake oil, you probably haven't seen the GTechniq coatings in action - these coatings covalently bond to the lacquer, it's not just a wax or polish loaded with fillers that mechanically bond to the paint.

You also need a machine polish, even on a new car, as any imperfections will be semi permanently sealed under the coating.

[After_Shock]

P13TR0 said:

This is bringing up more questions than answers. Crystal serum has only been on the market since 2014, so there are not many people with experience of maintaining the ceramic coating over a longer period of time.

The finish on the cars I have seen detailed with serum and exo is fantastic and in theory the 9h layer should resist light scratches and swirls.

My two primary concerns outlined in the first post still stand, however, if you think this is snake oil, you probably haven't seen the GTechniq coatings in action - these coatings covalently bond to the lacquer, it's not just a wax or polish loaded with fillers that mechanically bond to the paint.

You also need a machine polish, even on a new car, as any imperfections will be semi permanently sealed under the coating.

Your last point you are very correct, if you want the best finish the paint will need to be corrected before applying a product such as you are discussing as once its on it will be much harder to correct at a later stage and the marks/swirls underneath will be sealed in.

Its very easy to achieve fantastic results even using cheap products if they are applied right, the whole key to it all is the preparation and the application.

Regarding your two original points:

1) It bonds so well to the paint that it can only be wet sanded off - in the event that you get a ding or need a "smart repair" I assume this will add complexity and mean that someone needs to take a brillo pad to the affected panel?

2) If the Crystal Serum layer picks up any light swirls or marks, I assume all the Crystal Serum will need to be sanded off and re-applied?

1) I seriously doubt it needs to be wet sanded off, a chemical removal will most likely do or even claying it but ive never tried to remove this. Many products over the years have claimed to chemically bond to paint at a molecular level but they all come off relatively easily.

2) Same as the above really, you would need to remove it from the panel, correct the paint then get it re-applied, however you run the danger of the paint then altering in appearance slightly depending how its corrected and you might end up with an odd looking panel of paint.

For the number 2 above is the reason I will always stick with a simple but effective sealant and wax, its easier to remove in the event of when I end up with swirls/light scratches in the paint, its not a case of if its when as they will happen.

[Warmfuzzies]

If you doubt it needs sanding off, see the YouTube videos, albeit evidence you may choose not to buy into.
I know Rob from gtechniq, not the kind of chap who's full of ste I assure you.

K

[After_Shock]

Im fairly sure something like Iron X or an Alcohol wipe down would bring it off reasonably easy, worst case a machine polish using even a mild cut would eat into it fairly quick.

As say ive never tried to remove Gtechniq products but have removed several others that effectively claim to do similar things to it and they didn't take too much effort to get off.

It does seem a good product and id like to give it a go on a car when I can, not sure if any suppliers in the middle east though.......

[P13TR0]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=38Z_Up5hUts&sp...

I do believe it will need to be wet sanded off - this is the crux of the issue. If you do pick up some swirls or light scratches (despite the scratch resistance of the coating) it appears that it will be a complete pain in the arse to correct.

[robdcfc]

bunyarra said:

robdcfc said:

Modern paints are NOT fully cured at that point, they take several weeks to fully cure as the solvent needs to gas off.

Unless you'd like to disagree with Jaguar's senior bodyshop paint engineer, you are wrong. Just had my car front resprayed by the dealer under Jaguar supervision. He confirmed that the OEM approved paint process leaves the paint ready for surface treatments immediately - no gassing etc. This was in contrast to the bodyshop manager who tried to tell me I had to wait 3 months.

You can treat them I would rather not.

10 years at Toyota factory followed by 12 years painting on my own enough???

Even the factory paint is still soft a couple of days later as it goes down the production line because its not fully cured.

Most reps will tell you what you want to hear, its not his problem to rectify it.

I recommend a week to all my customers before waxing but 3 months before applying a sealer.

[robdcfc]

Mopar440 said:

robdcfc said:

Mopar440 said:

SuperPav said:

Not sure how long modern paints take to fully cure/harden under proper exposure.

Modern paints are fully cured (whether from the factory or from a professional body repairer) as soon as they've cooled after leaving the spray-oven.

If these aftermarket protective coatings are so amazing and mind-blowing, why aren't the manufacturers using them?

Plenty of comments above on the nature of this snake oil.

Modern paints are NOT fully cured at that point, they take several weeks to fully cure as the solvent needs to gas off.

Bullst.

Could you quantify that with some proper evidence???

[theboss]

OP mine is booked in with KDS for a correction and crystal serum detail end of April - I'll let you know how it goes. I'd have preferred to have it done immediately on collection but logistically its been difficult to get somebody with the right kit, in the right place at the right time.

I bought two cars in 2012 and my brother and I gave one of them (F20) the full Gtechniq sealant works with C1/C5/G1/L1 etc, whilst the other car went unprotected (because it was a hulking great X5 and frankly I couldn't be bothered!). The F20 was has been noticeably easier to keep clean and certainly through 18-24 months the effect of the sealant was evident when taking a jet wash to paint, alloys and glass. I'd have it done again now if I thought I might keep the car for any further length of time.

Here's the detailing world thread -

http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.p...