Advice - brake line snapped
Discussion
The usual method would be to free the flexy from it's bracket, cut it and then turn the end of the flexy, thus keeping the nut and steel pipe together. Once the flexy is free, then try to free off the rusted nut while it has no clamping force to contend with as well. If you can free it off, then assess the corrosion to see if replacement is necessary, if you can't free it off, have the tools and knowledge to replace them.
I'm pretty sure I have most of a roll of kunifer in the garage left over from my Mk1 Escort days, if I can find it I'll send it you up. You can have my brake line bender as well, I haven't used that in ten years either.
I'm pretty sure I have most of a roll of kunifer in the garage left over from my Mk1 Escort days, if I can find it I'll send it you up. You can have my brake line bender as well, I haven't used that in ten years either.
petrolheed said:
Not sure what a garage would have done differently in this situation other than using a different rust remover.
Thanks for the input though Gary.
To be fair, that would have made a big difference. Also, they would have noticed immediately that the union was seized on to the brake pipe and not just wound it round and round until the pipe fractured.Thanks for the input though Gary.
The union in your photo looks pretty well chewed up both on the threads and the hex head itself, which points to some fairly poor technique at some point in the past (not necessarily by you).
colin_p said:
Instead get one of these, they are the best cost solution for DIY'ing it. Far right, also shown pipe cutter and a few spanners which are all you need.
I've never had much luck with those pipe cutters - I find an angle grinder, with a bit of wood behind the pipe, a far quicker, easier and neater way of cutting the pipe.jamieduff1981 said:
The union in your photo looks pretty well chewed up both on the threads and the hex head itself, which points to some fairly poor technique at some point in the past (not necessarily by you).
Given that it's a 7yo car, I strongly suspect the last person to go near those unions was standing still whilst the car moved past him...Thanks for the advice so far lads. Much obliged.
Spoke to my dealer - they also advise Kunifer so that's the route I'll go. They can bend and flange the pipe for me to fit and they are also going to price doing the lot for me.
The mess made on the nut was me in frustration try to separate the two ONCE it was removed from the car. I had to put it in the vice and use a punch and hammer. Well stuck for sure.
Can anyone comment on where the pipes join at rear? There's a flexi pipe there so I'm assuming it's the rear side of the tank and this I shouldn't need to worry about lowering it.
Spoke to my dealer - they also advise Kunifer so that's the route I'll go. They can bend and flange the pipe for me to fit and they are also going to price doing the lot for me.
The mess made on the nut was me in frustration try to separate the two ONCE it was removed from the car. I had to put it in the vice and use a punch and hammer. Well stuck for sure.
Can anyone comment on where the pipes join at rear? There's a flexi pipe there so I'm assuming it's the rear side of the tank and this I shouldn't need to worry about lowering it.
Boing, just in case anyone cares
Just had this happen while fitting one of our development brake kits to my E92 M3. It's massively common and happens on virtually every BMW over about 2 years old that comes in for a development kit.
We've tried every solution in the past to free them (nothing works) and under pressure to get a car out we've also tried cutting and flaring the damaged end to put a new short length on. It took hours because of the confined space and was an utter f
king ball-ache from start to finish. We also weren't happy with adding another potential leak point so we fitted a new hose to it a couple of days afterwards.
Just ordered a new set of hard lines for mine and it was £92 for all four. No brainer if you ask me and fear not the rears as the hard pipes at the flexi are mounted subframe side so there's another flexi link pipe to the long routing back to the ABS unit. The right rear link pipe is only about 10 inches long so a piece of piss to change, even the left rear is only a couple of feet long and worst case I'll have to drop the exhaust rear section but I doubt it. The left front will be the worst as it runs across the bulkhead but it looks as if the scuttle trim can be removed for access.
I could probably have freed off some of them without breaking them with enough time and effort (probably by busting the hard-flexi body mount) but if you ask me once you've twisted the pipe even slightly trying to remove it then you've weakened it considerably and it's not worth the risk.
Just had this happen while fitting one of our development brake kits to my E92 M3. It's massively common and happens on virtually every BMW over about 2 years old that comes in for a development kit.
We've tried every solution in the past to free them (nothing works) and under pressure to get a car out we've also tried cutting and flaring the damaged end to put a new short length on. It took hours because of the confined space and was an utter f
king ball-ache from start to finish. We also weren't happy with adding another potential leak point so we fitted a new hose to it a couple of days afterwards.Just ordered a new set of hard lines for mine and it was £92 for all four. No brainer if you ask me and fear not the rears as the hard pipes at the flexi are mounted subframe side so there's another flexi link pipe to the long routing back to the ABS unit. The right rear link pipe is only about 10 inches long so a piece of piss to change, even the left rear is only a couple of feet long and worst case I'll have to drop the exhaust rear section but I doubt it. The left front will be the worst as it runs across the bulkhead but it looks as if the scuttle trim can be removed for access.
I could probably have freed off some of them without breaking them with enough time and effort (probably by busting the hard-flexi body mount) but if you ask me once you've twisted the pipe even slightly trying to remove it then you've weakened it considerably and it's not worth the risk.
petrolheed said:
This is what I have here right? and the idea would be to flare the end as pictured. Is that done by threading or by brute force? i.e.. am I to swing a hammer in there?
Most seem to be saying replace the lines. I'd rather not as it sounds a pita unless someone can tell / show other wise.
As this is to be a track toy (not race car) and road legal - do I have other options that OEM parts and fitting positions?
I'm sorry, but if you know that little about brake lines and tools, why isn't anyone telling you to leave the fMost seem to be saying replace the lines. I'd rather not as it sounds a pita unless someone can tell / show other wise.
As this is to be a track toy (not race car) and road legal - do I have other options that OEM parts and fitting positions?
k alone! Brakes are pretty much the most important thing on your car.Weirdhead said:
petrolheed said:
This is what I have here right? and the idea would be to flare the end as pictured. Is that done by threading or by brute force? i.e.. am I to swing a hammer in there?
Most seem to be saying replace the lines. I'd rather not as it sounds a pita unless someone can tell / show other wise.
As this is to be a track toy (not race car) and road legal - do I have other options that OEM parts and fitting positions?
I'm sorry, but if you know that little about brake lines and tools, why isn't anyone telling you to leave the fMost seem to be saying replace the lines. I'd rather not as it sounds a pita unless someone can tell / show other wise.
As this is to be a track toy (not race car) and road legal - do I have other options that OEM parts and fitting positions?
k alone! Brakes are pretty much the most important thing on your car.Riley Blue said:
Weirdhead said:
petrolheed said:
This is what I have here right? and the idea would be to flare the end as pictured. Is that done by threading or by brute force? i.e.. am I to swing a hammer in there?
Most seem to be saying replace the lines. I'd rather not as it sounds a pita unless someone can tell / show other wise.
As this is to be a track toy (not race car) and road legal - do I have other options that OEM parts and fitting positions?
I'm sorry, but if you know that little about brake lines and tools, why isn't anyone telling you to leave the fMost seem to be saying replace the lines. I'd rather not as it sounds a pita unless someone can tell / show other wise.
As this is to be a track toy (not race car) and road legal - do I have other options that OEM parts and fitting positions?
k alone! Brakes are pretty much the most important thing on your car.
TBH I'm surprised this is in GG and not the M section
The Wookie said:
Boing, just in case anyone cares
Just had this happen while fitting one of our development brake kits to my E92 M3. It's massively common and happens on virtually every BMW over about 2 years old that comes in for a development kit.
We've tried every solution in the past to free them (nothing works) and under pressure to get a car out we've also tried cutting and flaring the damaged end to put a new short length on. It took hours because of the confined space and was an utter fking ball-ache from start to finish. We also weren't happy with adding another potential leak point so we fitted a new hose to it a couple of days afterwards.
Just ordered a new set of hard lines for mine and it was £92 for all four. No brainer if you ask me and fear not the rears as the hard pipes at the flexi are mounted subframe side so there's another flexi link pipe to the long routing back to the ABS unit. The right rear link pipe is only about 10 inches long so a piece of piss to change, even the left rear is only a couple of feet long and worst case I'll have to drop the exhaust rear section but I doubt it. The left front will be the worst as it runs across the bulkhead but it looks as if the scuttle trim can be removed for access.
I could probably have freed off some of them without breaking them with enough time and effort (probably by busting the hard-flexi body mount) but if you ask me once you've twisted the pipe even slightly trying to remove it then you've weakened it considerably and it's not worth the risk.
100%.Just had this happen while fitting one of our development brake kits to my E92 M3. It's massively common and happens on virtually every BMW over about 2 years old that comes in for a development kit.
We've tried every solution in the past to free them (nothing works) and under pressure to get a car out we've also tried cutting and flaring the damaged end to put a new short length on. It took hours because of the confined space and was an utter f
king ball-ache from start to finish. We also weren't happy with adding another potential leak point so we fitted a new hose to it a couple of days afterwards.Just ordered a new set of hard lines for mine and it was £92 for all four. No brainer if you ask me and fear not the rears as the hard pipes at the flexi are mounted subframe side so there's another flexi link pipe to the long routing back to the ABS unit. The right rear link pipe is only about 10 inches long so a piece of piss to change, even the left rear is only a couple of feet long and worst case I'll have to drop the exhaust rear section but I doubt it. The left front will be the worst as it runs across the bulkhead but it looks as if the scuttle trim can be removed for access.
I could probably have freed off some of them without breaking them with enough time and effort (probably by busting the hard-flexi body mount) but if you ask me once you've twisted the pipe even slightly trying to remove it then you've weakened it considerably and it's not worth the risk.
This happens because the pipes are usually made of aluminium and the nuts, steel. I would say that the best way to deal with this is to prevent it from happening in the first place. A squirt of cavity wax around the nut should seal it preventing water from entering and causing everything to seize. Only valid when done to a new car, you know, that period when people only refuel with trepidation in case they invalidate the warranty...
Last time I had one nut seize up I found that some motor factors sold lengths of ready made pipe in various sizes, and some will make it up in any length you need. But one or two places refused to sell ready made pipes quoting duty of care ( i.e. they said that they couldn't guarantee the job unless they did it = another way to screw the motorist). Now since you are going to have to bleed at least one corner of the system, might be an idea to treat the bleed nipples so you don't one seizing when slackening it off.
P I Staker said:
Unless they don't.
Why would you want to replace a solid pipe with a inferior braided rubber line ?, braiding helps a bit but nowhere near as good as any solid line.Had exactly the same problem on my 911. Porsche did ready made lines that made the job simple and they only cost about £15. Also replaced the 25 year old flexible lines as well while I was down there.
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