Advice - brake line snapped

[petrolheed]

Changing the lines on the M3 and have had quite an issue with them. Basically I started to loosen the coupling (top side - 11mm) and it was turning the whole line rather than just the couple/ nut itself.

Result being - one snapped off entirely as it looked like it was rotating but was actually twisting right at nut and the other two I try have twisted the line 1/4 turn. I tried holding the hard line with vice grips but no luck.

I was using the right tools and technique Im sure as the first one I did worked fine.

What are my options?

[bearman68]

Only option is to replace the 'hard lines' as labelled in your photo. This is actually quite common, and in my experience more usual than the nut releasing nicely.
I know the hardline replacement is much more work, but it will pay dividends.
Sorry (Resists the obvious hard lines joke)

[Krikkit]

Get a roll of line, a crimper for the ends, a few new fittings and run a fresh line as far as you need tbh. That, or convert to some braided lines.

[BOBTEE]

The union, nut shape bit, should rotate freely around the pipe. Yours has seized onto the pipe. Wire brush it to chuff, soak with penetrating fluid. Work the union back and forth. Be prepared for the pipe to snap and need replacing

[E30M3SE]

The only option is new pipe, either complete or in part, as required.

Edited by E30M3SE on Sunday 12th April 16:18

[P I Staker]

Don't fk about just replace the pipes

[petrolheed]

It already has snapped on one, and twisted line on others.

[TooMany2cvs]

Krikkit said:

Get a roll of line, a crimper for the ends, a few new fittings and run a fresh line as far as you need tbh. That, or convert to some braided lines.

Braided hose just replaces the flexi - not the steel line.

[petrolheed]

I WD40'd the hell out of them first.

This is an e92 M3 2008 with 24k miles btw...

How much of a bd is it going to be replacing the lines - particularly the rear - is it full from front to rear?

[bearman68]

One of these is the boy. You can use it to flare the steel pipe if you can't find a suitable joint. It's marginally more expensive than the kits, but infinitely better.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brake-Pipe-Flaring-Tool-...

[petrolheed]

Not sure that there will be any room in the arch to work with a tool like that.

Cant I just cut the pipe and replace the coupling / union as pictured on to the existing line?

[P I Staker]

If you've got enough length then yes you can reflare the original pipes. I would cut any of the twisted sections out though.

[P I Staker]

TooMany2cvs said:

Krikkit said:

Get a roll of line, a crimper for the ends, a few new fittings and run a fresh line as far as you need tbh. That, or convert to some braided lines.

Braided hose just replaces the flexi - not the steel line.

Unless they don't.

[paintman]

The nut has to be slipped onto the brake line & the line then flared to the same shape as the old end. Doesn't just push onto the line & bolt up.
Steel lines are a PITA & other than it being cheap I'm at a loss as to why manufacturers still use it. Corrodes through - I had one snap just by gently pushing on it & it had a brand new MOT - & you get the issues you've had - although to be fair I have had copper & kunifer lines do that.
Your best course is to replace the whole line.

[bearman68]

Well, it might be possible........ But personally I would be looking to strip the old steel line back to at least where it's obviously in good condition. The line has broken where it has partly (mainly) due to corrosion, and you want to be sure that the pipes are good once you have finished the work. Also by shortening the existing line, the position of the flexi will be incorrect, and unlikely to sit where BMW intended it to. Worst case, you might find the wheel rubs the pipe, or it's caught in the shock or something horrendous.
Go for it, get the old steel stuff out, and re route in copper.

[BrownBottle]

It's not always the case but you might struggle to get the original pipe to flare properly, they aren't soft like the copper pipes you normally replace them with.

[petrolheed]

As you can see this one broke right at the nut so just the length of the coupling here, the two rears that twisted are more like maybe 100mm max to get beyond twist.

[E30M3SE]

petrolheed said:

Not sure that there will be any room in the arch to work with a tool like that.

Cant I just cut the pipe and replace the coupling / union as pictured on to the existing line?

No, as the pipe is now too short. If you can't splice in the wheel arch due to room you will have to go further back and find somewhere that has enough room to use a flaring tool.

From what I recall on the routing of brake pipes on E92 M3's you're in for some pain.

If you can't do it yourself get it to a garage, and in future don't use WD40 get yourself some Plusgas.

http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/car-accessories/...

[petrolheed]

Can any of you helpful lads advise me on where the first joints are on the e92, both front and rear.

Thanks for help so far btw. Noted on PlusGas - never heard of it before. Different league from WD40 then?

Edited by petrolheed on Sunday 12th April 16:50

[petrolheed]

This is what I have here right? and the idea would be to flare the end as pictured. Is that done by threading or by brute force? i.e.. am I to swing a hammer in there?




Most seem to be saying replace the lines. I'd rather not as it sounds a pita unless someone can tell / show other wise.

As this is to be a track toy (not race car) and road legal - do I have other options that OEM parts and fitting positions?