Advice - brake line snapped
Discussion
The end of the pipe is flared using a flaring tool, eg.
http://www.sealey.co.uk/PLPageBuilder.asp?id=20&am...
http://www.sealey.co.uk/PLPageBuilder.asp?id=20&am...
It is a bit of a PITA, but not impossible by any means. It's awkward rather than difficult. Take a bit of time to practice double flares on the copper before making up lines, and don't forget to put the nipples on first.
This vid is for a more traditional flaring kit - the previous kit works in a simaler way, but is easier to use, and gives better results, even on steel.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iUDyEu_NYK8
This vid is for a more traditional flaring kit - the previous kit works in a simaler way, but is easier to use, and gives better results, even on steel.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iUDyEu_NYK8
bearman68 said:
It is a bit of a PITA, but not impossible by any means. It's awkward rather than difficult. Take a bit of time to practice double flares on the copper before making up lines, and don't forget to put the nipples on first.
This vid is for a more traditional flaring kit - the previous kit works in a simaler way, but is easier to use, and gives better results, even on steel.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iUDyEu_NYK8
The cheap kits are total crap imo, better off spending a bit more to get a decent one. Many garages will rent one to you for a few quid over a weekend, or just take your pre-measured pipe lengths to have the unions crimped on. This vid is for a more traditional flaring kit - the previous kit works in a simaler way, but is easier to use, and gives better results, even on steel.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iUDyEu_NYK8
P I Staker said:
TooMany2cvs said:
Krikkit said:
Get a roll of line, a crimper for the ends, a few new fittings and run a fresh line as far as you need tbh. That, or convert to some braided lines.
Braided hose just replaces the flexi - not the steel line.And pure copper's definitely not the right stuff, either - cupro-nickel work-hardens much less, and is a far better solution. Some countries ban pure copper brake line for precisely that reason.
TooMany2cvs said:
P I Staker said:
TooMany2cvs said:
Krikkit said:
Get a roll of line, a crimper for the ends, a few new fittings and run a fresh line as far as you need tbh. That, or convert to some braided lines.
Braided hose just replaces the flexi - not the steel line.And pure copper's definitely not the right stuff, either - cupro-nickel work-hardens much less, and is a far better solution. Some countries ban pure copper brake line for precisely that reason.
petrolheed said:
Can any of you helpful lads advise me on where the first joints are on the e92, both front and rear.
Thanks for help so far btw. Noted on PlusGas - never heard of it before. Different league from WD40 then?
Plusgas is a proper penetrating fluid. Loctite's Freeze and Release is also good & diesel - as in fuel - isn't bad either!Thanks for help so far btw. Noted on PlusGas - never heard of it before. Different league from WD40 then?
Edited by petrolheed on Sunday 12th April 16:50
Some very good advice above in using Copper Nickle pipe rather than copper and also the link to the flaring tool on e-bay.
The first thing you need to do is establish what type of flare you have. Being a BMW it is likely to have a DIN flare.
Do NOT buy a flaring kit like this, they are crap and unlikely to have a DIN flare insert
Instead get one of these, they are the best cost solution for DIY'ing it. Far right, also shown pipe cutter and a few spanners which are all you need.
I've used this on VW/Audi's but BMW are likely to have the same 4.75mm DIN flares
And the best thing is the tool is small enough to use on the car.
At the back end, hard line run over the fuel tank which to be partly dropped for access.
And at or near to the ABS pump, make life easier especially on a longer rear line.
The first thing you need to do is establish what type of flare you have. Being a BMW it is likely to have a DIN flare.
Do NOT buy a flaring kit like this, they are crap and unlikely to have a DIN flare insert
Instead get one of these, they are the best cost solution for DIY'ing it. Far right, also shown pipe cutter and a few spanners which are all you need.
I've used this on VW/Audi's but BMW are likely to have the same 4.75mm DIN flares
And the best thing is the tool is small enough to use on the car.
At the back end, hard line run over the fuel tank which to be partly dropped for access.
And at or near to the ABS pump, make life easier especially on a longer rear line.
BOBTEE said:
The union, nut shape bit, should rotate freely around the pipe. Yours has seized onto the pipe. Wire brush it to chuff, soak with penetrating fluid. Work the union back and forth. Be prepared for the pipe to snap and need replacing
Stable doors and horses spring to mind!Flaring the original steel pipes to join it to a new pipe will need a decent quality flaring tool. The cheaper ones work reasonably well on copper and Kunifer, but usually not on steel.
The tool recommended by Bearman works really well for flaring pipes on the car, one of these has earned its price back many times for me and should last a lifetime.
BMW brake pipes can be pigs to route without dropping the tank and exhaust so joining to the existing line on the car is often the only practical solution.
A good move is to wedge the brake pedal down a few inches with a piece of wood or similar, this will stop fluid leaking out, you do not want to be letting air into the ABS or master cylinder.
Also, when the job is done, clean up the unions and pipes perfectly and pressurise the brakes to check for leaks, you don't want to be arriving at a corner to find you have no brakes.
BMW brake pipes can be pigs to route without dropping the tank and exhaust so joining to the existing line on the car is often the only practical solution.
A good move is to wedge the brake pedal down a few inches with a piece of wood or similar, this will stop fluid leaking out, you do not want to be letting air into the ABS or master cylinder.
Also, when the job is done, clean up the unions and pipes perfectly and pressurise the brakes to check for leaks, you don't want to be arriving at a corner to find you have no brakes.
Get it to a garage and get them to replace the hard lines its not a job for someone that's doesn't even know what tool to use. Trying to route brake pipes on bmw on a ramp is a fun job usually requires dropping the tank down. I don't even flare steel pipes as it makes a mess with brake fluid going everywhere and the chances of doing a good flare even with a proper hand held metal flaring tool takes a lot of practice.
Speaking as a mechanic that regular replace brake pipes on some t
ts of cars bmw being the worst get it to a garage don't attempt to bodge it.
Speaking as a mechanic that regular replace brake pipes on some t
ts of cars bmw being the worst get it to a garage don't attempt to bodge it.
petrolheed said:
I am going to ask my dealer to price doing the job for me to weigh up my options. Don't think Im going to bother going the flaring route as it might not work right and I've still to replace lines.
Not sure where I've made out I dont/ didn't know what tools to use Chris?
You did ask can I just hit the pipe to make a flare etc in a post above. Not sure where I've made out I dont/ didn't know what tools to use Chris?
Ask a price from a dealer if you want but be prepared to pay a lot or find a good indy specialist in bmw or sports cars etc near to you and ask for a price. I haven't worked on that year bmw but have done loads of brake pipes on e46 3 series and the pipes routing is a pain in the arse infact most bmw are the same.
Yeah I did there, brake pipe flaring is a new one to me. Don't think I'd be stuck replacing the lines though other than it be a fiddly bd and lack of a lift,
Could you give me an idea on labour time Chris? I get on well with my dealer and they look after my cars - local garages round here just don't work to my standards unfortunately.
d and lack of a lift,Could you give me an idea on labour time Chris? I get on well with my dealer and they look after my cars - local garages round here just don't work to my standards unfortunately.
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