astra h cdti 150 help pleassssssse
Discussion
thanks I thought maybe Vauxhall may have checked these ive cleaned the maf not sure what the dpf is only picked up stuff from all the crap cars I seem to get where are the lambda sensor and exhaust sensor located and is there a way of testing these also not sure if anything to do with it but if I start car and set off I hear a couple of clicks under car then it seems to be powerless
stuartwallworth said:
thanks I thought maybe Vauxhall may have checked these ive cleaned the maf not sure what the dpf is only picked up stuff from all the crap cars I seem to get where are the lambda sensor and exhaust sensor located and is there a way of testing these also not sure if anything to do with it but if I start car and set off I hear a couple of clicks under car then it seems to be powerless
you need a good independant Did Vauxhall clear the codes or are they still present ?
What did Vauxhall report ?
Tech2 will indicate if the codes are current or not - did they tell you any of this ?
If they did definitely clear them, have they come back since ? same ones ?
As said before, you need to find someone who knows their stuff. £85 is probably an hours diagnostic - check fault codes, quick test drive, thats about it.
Go back, tell them you want the codes cleared and a proper report of what they found thus far. If they want a further investigation what does this entail.
I suspect they don't know and are on the make.
What did Vauxhall report ?
Tech2 will indicate if the codes are current or not - did they tell you any of this ?
If they did definitely clear them, have they come back since ? same ones ?
As said before, you need to find someone who knows their stuff. £85 is probably an hours diagnostic - check fault codes, quick test drive, thats about it.
Go back, tell them you want the codes cleared and a proper report of what they found thus far. If they want a further investigation what does this entail.
I suspect they don't know and are on the make.
I had one of these and I blew some hose. The car had no power and was actually hard to drive....
I looked around the place and could not find any issues whatsoever. However you wont - the pressures these things run at is pretty intense. So the issue only showed its head when the car was underload - dont rule out any hose issues.
I looked around the place and could not find any issues whatsoever. However you wont - the pressures these things run at is pretty intense. So the issue only showed its head when the car was underload - dont rule out any hose issues.
Crafty_ said:
Did Vauxhall clear the codes or are they still present ?
What did Vauxhall report ?
Tech2 will indicate if the codes are current or not - did they tell you any of this ?
If they did definitely clear them, have they come back since ? same ones ?
As said before, you need to find someone who knows their stuff. £85 is probably an hours diagnostic - check fault codes, quick test drive, thats about it.
Go back, tell them you want the codes cleared and a proper report of what they found thus far. If they want a further investigation what does this entail.
I suspect they don't know and are on the make.
Correct. Vauxhall "technicians" don't know sWhat did Vauxhall report ?
Tech2 will indicate if the codes are current or not - did they tell you any of this ?
If they did definitely clear them, have they come back since ? same ones ?
As said before, you need to find someone who knows their stuff. £85 is probably an hours diagnostic - check fault codes, quick test drive, thats about it.
Go back, tell them you want the codes cleared and a proper report of what they found thus far. If they want a further investigation what does this entail.
I suspect they don't know and are on the make.
t. They will simply plug in the diagnostics and tell you what's wrong based on the error codes. They will then say "well it could be this or it could be that" and you end up in a never-ending cycle of throwing huge amounts of money at labour and parts in the hope that one of them fixes the problem. Being a diesel that usually ends up being a bill for more than the car is worth and the problem remains because it's actually a tiny split in a vacuum hose that would cost about £2.50 to fix (for example).I'd be wary of taking it to a diesel specialist too as from my experience their stock answer to all problems is that it will need new injectors when more often than not they just need the EGR cleaned up or replaced.
- some* techs do know their stuff, the biggest problem is that techs are under the cosh to make bonus, diagnostics makes that difficult and of course the dealership is only too happy to charge a customer more.
This goes for all manufacturers imho.
Back to the OP's car. What you could do is buy a dongle off the net, this plugs in to the OBD2 port, a few quid for an app on your phone (called dashcommand) gives you live data and the ability to log it. This is not as good as tech2, but much cheaper!
The point is you can read some live data and start ruling out what is/isn't working. E.g. if you see a low reading off a sensor (MAF for example) that starts to firm things up. Handy to have access to an autodata book at this point too..
The turbo isn't boosting correctly I reckon, just need to know why. A friend had a diesel Octavia some years ago, it had a faulty solenoid that caused the exact same issue as this car. May not be the answer but it just reminded me of it.
Alternatively go look on astraownersclub.com lots of experience there. You might even find someone local willing to come and do a bit of diagnosis with tech2, op-com or a dongle as mentioned above.
Edited by Crafty_ on Wednesday 27th May 20:33
stuartwallworth said:
also not sure if anything to do with it but if I start car and set off I hear a couple of clicks under car then it seems to be powerless
The double click or twang noise you hear after setting off is the ABS self-test. That's normal and they all do it. The power going is a separate issue. I'd say it's EGR or MAF related from what you describe. The power going is the car going into limp mode when it detects a fault. Remove the MAF/EGR plug as mentioned earlier and take it for a drive - is it still doing it or is it now driving fine?stuartwallworth said:
thanks mrf ive unplugged egr and just been for a drive and unbelievably it drove brilliant not a single fault fingers crossed next problem is that the egr was new so what happens now can I leave it unplugged or will it cause issues
Thought it might! Have you actually seen inside the EGR and associated pipework through to your inlet manifold? In my experience just replacing the EGR won't solve the problem if it's really coked up as the passage for the gasses is too narrow and that's what causes the sensors to tell the ECU it's blocked, hence the spanner light and limp mode. You need to either replace the whole lot or remove it all and clean it up, including the inlet manifold when it tends to clog the most. Also, did you have the swirl flaps blanked or just replaced? If you only do short/cold runs then I wouldn't be surprised if it's coked up again and the rod popped off.If you intend to keep the car once you get it sorted you need to look at preventative maintenance to stop it from happening again. You want to use a fuel that has detergents in it like Shell V-Power or start using an additive like Millers Diesel Power Ecomax. This will keep your injectors and EGR/inlet manifold clean if used regularly and will prevent them from getting clogged up with crap.
Edited by All that jazz on Wednesday 27th May 20:46
See my edited post at 2031. Your EGR system is caked up. Common problem on these. Gassing Station | General Gassing | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff