Open gate manual gearbox
Discussion
Can any gearbox be made into an open gated manual? For example, would you just remove the cover, change the knob itself and pop a new gate on, and that be it?
Or is there more to it than that, like the manner of the gearbox itself? Substantial modification needed? What exactly are the specific characteristics as compared to a normal gearbox?
Badly explained and poorly set out, but I don't really know what I'm asking
Or is there more to it than that, like the manner of the gearbox itself? Substantial modification needed? What exactly are the specific characteristics as compared to a normal gearbox?
Badly explained and poorly set out, but I don't really know what I'm asking
Hamish Finn said:
You're not the only one.
Good point, well made For ease of comprehension: if I wished to convert a normal gearbox into an open gated one, would it be as simple as simply removing the leather cover? Or is there a big mechanical difference between the two that prevents conversion?
Err... Wut?
Open gate boxes are just ones without a leather gaitor to hide the mechanism, it's made a feature of instead.
You could do the same if you machined a plate with the right spacings for how the gear linkage moved, but it wouldn't fit into the interior of most cars without looking s
te.
Open gate boxes are just ones without a leather gaitor to hide the mechanism, it's made a feature of instead.
You could do the same if you machined a plate with the right spacings for how the gear linkage moved, but it wouldn't fit into the interior of most cars without looking s
te.Krikkit said:
Err... Wut?
Open gate boxes are just ones without a leather gaitor to hide the mechanism, it's made a feature of instead.
You could do the same if you machined a plate with the right spacings for how the gear linkage moved, but it wouldn't fit into the interior of most cars without looking ste.
And it is just as easy as that? Of course, there would be some problems in terms of looking sOpen gate boxes are just ones without a leather gaitor to hide the mechanism, it's made a feature of instead.
You could do the same if you machined a plate with the right spacings for how the gear linkage moved, but it wouldn't fit into the interior of most cars without looking s
te.t in most cars, but one would just have to remove the gaitor and fashion a custom something to slot on top?f1nn said:
Yep, pretty much. in theory anyway.
However, the reality may not match your expectations if you're trying to fit one to an old Clio (or similar) with a worn linkage!
I had been toying with the idea of a mockup for my XJ6 manual, and got thinking about the actual logistics of it, and whether it could be doneHowever, the reality may not match your expectations if you're trying to fit one to an old Clio (or similar) with a worn linkage!
Pebbles167 said:
Unless your gearstick moves in very straight lines and has a very short and stiff throw, I'd imagine you'll forever be catching it when changing between 2nd & 3rd and 4th & 5th. Fitting a quickshift gear lever first could help this.
Give it a try though, it'll be interesting to see.
This is exactly what I was looking for! Quickshift gear lever? Is that all that is needed to change the gearchange to short and stiff throws?Give it a try though, it'll be interesting to see.
YoungRestorer said:
This is exactly what I was looking for! Quickshift gear lever? Is that all that is needed to change the gearchange to short and stiff throws?
Some cars with mechanical linkage can be fitted with an alternative gear lever that changes the pivot point, shortening and stiffening the throw. Your post got me thinking that now mine is fitted i could probably do exactly as you say. What car do you drive?Pebbles167 said:
Some cars with mechanical linkage can be fitted with an alternative gear lever that changes the pivot point, shortening and stiffening the throw. Your post got me thinking that now mine is fitted i could probably do exactly as you say. What car do you drive?
1997 Jaguar XJ6: its a getrag 290 I thinkPebbles167 said:
Some cars with mechanical linkage can be fitted with an alternative gear lever that changes the pivot point, shortening and stiffening the throw. Your post got me thinking that now mine is fitted i could probably do exactly as you say. What car do you drive?
Although sometimes not without adverse effects on the synchro rings.You may struggle depending on the car.
You need quite a lot of movement, but a lot of precision for the stick to clear the gates. Many modern hum-drum cars use a ball-in-socket pivot for the gearstick which is mounted very close to the facia of the centre console. If you just removed the gaiter you'll likely find that where the gate would go does not have enough distance between stick positions to put the gate in - or in otherwords the gate positions would all overlap with each other. You'd have to lift the gate up the gearstick to get enough movement in the stick to clear the fingers of the gates.
Cars with gated gearsticks tend to have the pivot point mounted lower down away from the transmission tunnel facia, and the gate can then be positioned much higher up the gearstick itself.
You need quite a lot of movement, but a lot of precision for the stick to clear the gates. Many modern hum-drum cars use a ball-in-socket pivot for the gearstick which is mounted very close to the facia of the centre console. If you just removed the gaiter you'll likely find that where the gate would go does not have enough distance between stick positions to put the gate in - or in otherwords the gate positions would all overlap with each other. You'd have to lift the gate up the gearstick to get enough movement in the stick to clear the fingers of the gates.
Cars with gated gearsticks tend to have the pivot point mounted lower down away from the transmission tunnel facia, and the gate can then be positioned much higher up the gearstick itself.
Ironically, it's probably easier on a FWD car!
A lot of (but not all) RWD cars have the stick acting directly on the box. So as the block moves on it's mountings, and the diff wiggles on it's, then the stick will move a LOT as the while drivetrain twists. On something like an RX7 the gearstick looks like it's trying to smash you in the face on hard launches!
With FWD/MR/the rest of the RWD ones, the stock is mounted to the chassis and acts on the drivetrain by a series of linkages or cables. Means its a lot easier to implement an open gate as the movement of the drivetrain has a much smaller effect ont he stick.
Thinking about most of the cars that spring to my mind when thinking of open gates, they're all MR.
A lot of (but not all) RWD cars have the stick acting directly on the box. So as the block moves on it's mountings, and the diff wiggles on it's, then the stick will move a LOT as the while drivetrain twists. On something like an RX7 the gearstick looks like it's trying to smash you in the face on hard launches!
With FWD/MR/the rest of the RWD ones, the stock is mounted to the chassis and acts on the drivetrain by a series of linkages or cables. Means its a lot easier to implement an open gate as the movement of the drivetrain has a much smaller effect ont he stick.
Thinking about most of the cars that spring to my mind when thinking of open gates, they're all MR.
Perhaps worth noting that the cover is there for a reason - if you open it up your gear linkage will end up full of dust and anything else that you happen to drop down the hole.
You may also find the mechanism which stops you easily engaging reverse rises above the plane of the centre console so it'll get in the way. You might also find that the point the stick leaves the centre console is too close to the pivot point so there isn't enough physical space between gear selection points to have a metal bar between them.
You may also find the mechanism which stops you easily engaging reverse rises above the plane of the centre console so it'll get in the way. You might also find that the point the stick leaves the centre console is too close to the pivot point so there isn't enough physical space between gear selection points to have a metal bar between them.
Edited by kambites on Tuesday 1st September 08:52
I created one for the MK1 TT some years ago and sold loads - It was a big job to get it done but it worked brilliantly and i loved the click clack noise - here is a vid I made for Youtube.
http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&source=web&am...
http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&source=web&am...
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