Best smoker barges 1-5 large [Vol 9]
Discussion
KrisP said:
Thanks for the pointers on the 190 3.2 transplant. The idea quite appeals, though I do wonder what the merc manual box is like - anyone?
I might have a look into that ML55, its less than 10 miles from me, so definitely more appealing than a trek to Scotland to view a s/h car
From memory the manual transmission supplied with the 320—along with the 300-24—is the close ratio dog-leg type and rather excellent.I might have a look into that ML55, its less than 10 miles from me, so definitely more appealing than a trek to Scotland to view a s/h car
bmthnick1981 said:
0a said:
So silly. And irresistible!
This! Sometimes I can't help myself buying cars even when I don't really want them! This little problem child in fact:
CharlesdeGaulle said:
I'm tempted to buy this, stick it in a garage and just 'forget' to mention it to Madame.
Because cheap and thistle green.
http://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C683610
ETA - No MOT for 4 years, and extensive corrosion mentioned before then. Still tempted.
Because cheap and thistle green.
http://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C683610
ETA - No MOT for 4 years, and extensive corrosion mentioned before then. Still tempted.
CDG I just don't like the SLC.
It's an old SL, with all the not so good qualities of an R107 (not great to drive, heavy) with the best bit eliminated - taking the roof off and having a R107 Mercedes SL.
It's a bit ugly, and a really rusty one doesn't ring my bells at all!
I've been told that a really rusty SL of this era is £10-15k to sort, I guess the SLC is the same. NO THANKS!
It's an old SL, with all the not so good qualities of an R107 (not great to drive, heavy) with the best bit eliminated - taking the roof off and having a R107 Mercedes SL.
It's a bit ugly, and a really rusty one doesn't ring my bells at all!
I've been told that a really rusty SL of this era is £10-15k to sort, I guess the SLC is the same. NO THANKS!
judas said:
PlayersNo6 said:
W00DY said:
That looks bloody good to me - 1 owner, green, wood, no tints and sensible wheels.Edited by judas on Wednesday 25th November 20:01
judas said:
PlayersNo6 said:
W00DY said:
That looks bloody good to me - 1 owner, green, wood, no tints and sensible wheels.Edited by judas on Wednesday 25th November 20:01
lostkiwi said:
judas said:
PlayersNo6 said:
W00DY said:
That looks bloody good to me - 1 owner, green, wood, no tints and sensible wheels.Edited by judas on Wednesday 25th November 20:01
Manual box is not ideal in a big car and the drivers seat looks a bit baggy for the miles.
https://www.gumtree.com/p/volvo/2002-volvo-s80-2.4...
https://www.gumtree.com/p/volvo/2002-volvo-s80-2.4...
Lowtimer said:
Bouncing back to this one, does annoy me when people don't register as traders. I mean, that same seller has 10 cars for sale at the moment.For that reason alone I'd not go near it, you just know what sort of backup/sales experience you'd be in for.
0a said:
CDG I just don't like the SLC.
It's an old SL, with all the not so good qualities of an R107 (not great to drive, heavy) with the best bit eliminated - taking the roof off and having a R107 Mercedes SL.
It's a bit ugly, and a really rusty one doesn't ring my bells at all!
I've been told that a really rusty SL of this era is £10-15k to sort, I guess the SLC is the same. NO THANKS!
Surely there are only two types of R107 / C107 worth thinking about:It's an old SL, with all the not so good qualities of an R107 (not great to drive, heavy) with the best bit eliminated - taking the roof off and having a R107 Mercedes SL.
It's a bit ugly, and a really rusty one doesn't ring my bells at all!
I've been told that a really rusty SL of this era is £10-15k to sort, I guess the SLC is the same. NO THANKS!
- £3k shed, to be used and abused with the famous policy of 'managed retreat'.
- £20k beaut, kept fastidiously with one and a half eyes on eventually selling it for £60k.
SpeckledJim said:
0a said:
CDG I just don't like the SLC.
It's an old SL, with all the not so good qualities of an R107 (not great to drive, heavy) with the best bit eliminated - taking the roof off and having a R107 Mercedes SL.
It's a bit ugly, and a really rusty one doesn't ring my bells at all!
I've been told that a really rusty SL of this era is £10-15k to sort, I guess the SLC is the same. NO THANKS!
Surely there are only two types of R107 / C107 worth thinking about:It's an old SL, with all the not so good qualities of an R107 (not great to drive, heavy) with the best bit eliminated - taking the roof off and having a R107 Mercedes SL.
It's a bit ugly, and a really rusty one doesn't ring my bells at all!
I've been told that a really rusty SL of this era is £10-15k to sort, I guess the SLC is the same. NO THANKS!
- £3k shed, to be used and abused with the famous policy of 'managed retreat'.
- £20k beaut, kept fastidiously with one and a half eyes on eventually selling it for £60k.
0a said:
lostkiwi said:
judas said:
PlayersNo6 said:
W00DY said:
That looks bloody good to me - 1 owner, green, wood, no tints and sensible wheels.Edited by judas on Wednesday 25th November 20:01
Then again, I've asked for a quote on a Polo GTi lease!
My relationship and indecisiveness with cars gives me sleepless nights - though I usually end up something in between.
Emeye said:
0a said:
lostkiwi said:
judas said:
PlayersNo6 said:
W00DY said:
That looks bloody good to me - 1 owner, green, wood, no tints and sensible wheels.Edited by judas on Wednesday 25th November 20:01
Then again, I've asked for a quote on a Polo GTi lease!
judas said:
Costs £1600-£2500 to get them LPG'd, which is why I'm off to look at a couple of pre-LPG'd ones this weekend. We could soon have a cheap 'Bentley' as the daily car to go with the real Bentley
Do you run a Turbo R?!Would you like to hear about a great investment opportunity
0a said:
lostkiwi said:
judas said:
PlayersNo6 said:
W00DY said:
That looks bloody good to me - 1 owner, green, wood, no tints and sensible wheels.Edited by judas on Wednesday 25th November 20:01
I don't find the early ones anywhere close to Bentleys in terms of comfort or interior. Feel more Audi A6/A8 than bentley. If think they changed the interior/switch gear in the later ones and it is a big improvement, and the newest ones are absolutely wonderful. Reminded me a lot of the new mulsanne.
I quite fancy dipping a toe in the barge water at the moment, and the E38 7-series has caught my attention (slight preference for the SWB 740).
What's to know about these things? There don't seem to be any recent/decent buying guides on the web, so any help might be appreciated. Is it worth holding out for a 'Sport' model, or are 'Individual' models more desirable?
What's to know about these things? There don't seem to be any recent/decent buying guides on the web, so any help might be appreciated. Is it worth holding out for a 'Sport' model, or are 'Individual' models more desirable?
Same as an E39 5-series, for which there are many buyer's guides around, with the addition of it having a metal fuel tank which rusts through, and costs a lot to replace (E39 is plastic).
Main other E38/E39 points requiring checking and/or anticipation of having to refresh them depending on when last done are as follows:
Rust, which can happen almost anywhere on these.
Cooling system (rad, hoses, water pump, thermostats) generally need renewal every 7-8 years.
"Sealed for life" auto transmission means that you want to have deep enough pockets to cope with a proper transmission rebuild at some point. If it delays going into reverse or drive, or if there is any transmission / axle noise at all, I'd swerve that car and find a better one. All the shifts should be very smooth, and ensure that the transmission is locking up in fourth and fifth gears
Suspension is usually pretty shot on cars of this era. Expect to have it all rebuilt unless there is documentation of recent replacement of all the bushes, and recent dampers. Broken springs are not unheard of, though seem to be less common in the E38 than on the equivalent Mercs. Various forms of shimmy varying with speed and/or braking are common and indicate poor suspension maintenance.
Obviously all the usual used-car stuff, ensure ALL the electrics work, air con working, recent battery etc. Personally I steer clear of anything on ill-matching or nasty tyres, anything with aftermarket window tints, anything on gor-blimey blingy wheels. The usual things to avoid, really. They are not cars for people with shallow pockets but most of them have fallen into such hands, and bringing a neglected one back to its prime is expensive.
It is much much cheaper to buy the best one than the cheapest.
But a good one is an absolutely lovely thing.
Meanwhile:
http://www.meeknet.co.uk/e38/bmw_e38_buying_guide....
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1...
Main other E38/E39 points requiring checking and/or anticipation of having to refresh them depending on when last done are as follows:
Rust, which can happen almost anywhere on these.
Cooling system (rad, hoses, water pump, thermostats) generally need renewal every 7-8 years.
"Sealed for life" auto transmission means that you want to have deep enough pockets to cope with a proper transmission rebuild at some point. If it delays going into reverse or drive, or if there is any transmission / axle noise at all, I'd swerve that car and find a better one. All the shifts should be very smooth, and ensure that the transmission is locking up in fourth and fifth gears
Suspension is usually pretty shot on cars of this era. Expect to have it all rebuilt unless there is documentation of recent replacement of all the bushes, and recent dampers. Broken springs are not unheard of, though seem to be less common in the E38 than on the equivalent Mercs. Various forms of shimmy varying with speed and/or braking are common and indicate poor suspension maintenance.
Obviously all the usual used-car stuff, ensure ALL the electrics work, air con working, recent battery etc. Personally I steer clear of anything on ill-matching or nasty tyres, anything with aftermarket window tints, anything on gor-blimey blingy wheels. The usual things to avoid, really. They are not cars for people with shallow pockets but most of them have fallen into such hands, and bringing a neglected one back to its prime is expensive.
It is much much cheaper to buy the best one than the cheapest.
But a good one is an absolutely lovely thing.
Meanwhile:
http://www.meeknet.co.uk/e38/bmw_e38_buying_guide....
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1...
Edited by Lowtimer on Thursday 26th November 11:55
BrabusMog said:
judas said:
Costs £1600-£2500 to get them LPG'd, which is why I'm off to look at a couple of pre-LPG'd ones this weekend. We could soon have a cheap 'Bentley' as the daily car to go with the real Bentley
Do you run a Turbo R?!Would you like to hear about a great investment opportunity
Lowtimer said:
Same as an E39 5-series, for which there are many buyer's guides around, with the addition of it having a metal fuel tank which rusts through, and costs a lot to replace (E39 is plastic).
Main other E38/E39 points requiring checking and/or anticipation of having to refresh them depending on when last done are as follows:
Rust, which can happen almost anywhere on these.
Cooling system (rad, hoses, water pump, thermostats) generally need renewal every 7-8 years.
"Sealed for life" auto transmission means that you want to have deep enough pockets to cope with a proper transmission rebuild at some point. If it delays going into reverse or drive, or if there is any transmission / axle noise at all, I'd swerve that car and find a better one. All the shifts should be very smooth, and ensure that the transmission is locking up in fourth and fifth gears
Suspension is usually pretty shot on cars of this era. Expect to have it all rebuilt unless there is documentation of recent replacement of all the bushes, and recent dampers. Broken springs are not unheard of, though seem to be less common in the E38 than on the equivalent Mercs. Various forms of shimmy varying with speed and/or braking are common and indicate poor suspension maintenance.
Obviously all the usual used-car stuff, ensure ALL the electrics work, air con working, recent battery etc. Personally I steer clear of anything on ill-matching or nasty tyres, anything with aftermarket window tints, anything on gor-blimey blingy wheels. The usual things to avoid, really. They are not cars for people with shallow pockets but most of them have fallen into such hands, and bringing a neglected one back to its prime is expensive.
It is much much cheaper to buy the best one than the cheapest.
But a good one is an absolutely lovely thing.
Meanwhile:
http://www.meeknet.co.uk/e38/bmw_e38_buying_guide....
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1...
Thank you so much for taking the time to share all of that!Main other E38/E39 points requiring checking and/or anticipation of having to refresh them depending on when last done are as follows:
Rust, which can happen almost anywhere on these.
Cooling system (rad, hoses, water pump, thermostats) generally need renewal every 7-8 years.
"Sealed for life" auto transmission means that you want to have deep enough pockets to cope with a proper transmission rebuild at some point. If it delays going into reverse or drive, or if there is any transmission / axle noise at all, I'd swerve that car and find a better one. All the shifts should be very smooth, and ensure that the transmission is locking up in fourth and fifth gears
Suspension is usually pretty shot on cars of this era. Expect to have it all rebuilt unless there is documentation of recent replacement of all the bushes, and recent dampers. Broken springs are not unheard of, though seem to be less common in the E38 than on the equivalent Mercs. Various forms of shimmy varying with speed and/or braking are common and indicate poor suspension maintenance.
Obviously all the usual used-car stuff, ensure ALL the electrics work, air con working, recent battery etc. Personally I steer clear of anything on ill-matching or nasty tyres, anything with aftermarket window tints, anything on gor-blimey blingy wheels. The usual things to avoid, really. They are not cars for people with shallow pockets but most of them have fallen into such hands, and bringing a neglected one back to its prime is expensive.
It is much much cheaper to buy the best one than the cheapest.
But a good one is an absolutely lovely thing.
Meanwhile:
http://www.meeknet.co.uk/e38/bmw_e38_buying_guide....
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1...
Edited by Lowtimer on Thursday 26th November 11:55
I had previously looked at a 540, so am aware of the engine/drivetrain weaknesses. I guess I'm just a bit in the dark about the model-specific issues, such as whether it had any fancy suspension gubbins to go wrong.
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