unrealistic expectations of the used car market???
Discussion
danlightbulb said:
I know you guys haven't seen it. But are we talking 3 months here and its falling off the car? Or will it still look like it looks now 2 years down the line?
I'd just leave it until it needs a mot.If it's a issue decide if you want to keep it and get it fixed properly.
jagnet said:
I'd be inclined to get it sorted now, whilst you still have the Mondeo to use when the new car's in the bodyshop. It'll also avoid the winter road salt making it any worse.
You're probably right but I've had to swap the insurance over now. Can't afford to insure two cars. I will be keeping the Mondeo for a bit just in case anything goes wrong with the Honda, but I can't keep them both insured.
Escy said:
If it was me, i'd just ignore the rust. No point needlessly plowing money into the car, it's too old and has too many miles for it to be worth doing. If the rust is a problem which you want to sort out, you've bought the wrong car.
Exactly this. It's a £1500 shed with 130k miles on it FFS. Looks a decent shed though OP to be fair, just run it and enjoy your black half leather and fix it if it goes wrong. It's not going to fail an MOT with a few rust bubbles on the arches.A others have said a few bubbles on the arches are not an MoT fail. If the arches are really rotten, yes, cut them out. But for a £1500 daily driver it's excessive. Either don't buy that car or live with it.
Ive had a few sheds with rusty arches. In every case I gave them a quick scrub, rust convertor, touch up pen. Repeat annually. One did 5 years of this without getting worse. Now for a DB6 this is poor behaviour. For an old Honda it counts as cossetting.
Ive had a few sheds with rusty arches. In every case I gave them a quick scrub, rust convertor, touch up pen. Repeat annually. One did 5 years of this without getting worse. Now for a DB6 this is poor behaviour. For an old Honda it counts as cossetting.
I've just paid £560 to have both rear arches cut out of a camper , inner and outer skins replaced and sprayed up and waxoiled.
If you get it much cheaper i bet you they only actually replace the outer skin so on the surface it looks all nice but underneath the rust is still in the inner skin.
If you get it much cheaper i bet you they only actually replace the outer skin so on the surface it looks all nice but underneath the rust is still in the inner skin.
egor110 said:
I've just paid £560 to have both rear arches cut out of a camper , inner and outer skins replaced and sprayed up and waxoiled.
If you get it much cheaper i bet you they only actually replace the outer skin so on the surface it looks all nice but underneath the rust is still in the inner skin.
If i still have the car in a year i think thats a price id be willing to pay and seems reasonable. The rest of the bodywork is perfect. Can you say who you used?If you get it much cheaper i bet you they only actually replace the outer skin so on the surface it looks all nice but underneath the rust is still in the inner skin.
Bennet said:
Congratulations. It looks good and I think you paid a fair price. Personally, I'd get a few quotes for the rust and get a proper job done, since you're planning to keep it a while.
Ignore the snide pillocks.
This.Ignore the snide pillocks.
I'm feeling a bit sorry for the OP to be honest, everyone's told him to stop being fussy and just buy a car, so now he's bought something reasonably decent for a fairly low price and now there's a queue of people lining up to put the boot in.
If it was mine, next year (spring/summer) I'd probably spend £30 on some fibreglass filler, body filler and paint, plus some thick underseal to stop the moisture coming through from the underside.
If you're anywhere near Stoke, I'll do it for you for a bag of chips
. Done right that will last at least a year, probably 3, at which point you can think about welding.
Mind you, I'd also do the welding myself if it was my car, but then I like that sort of thing.
ETA: Just looked at the photos, they're not what I'd call rusty arches
. I reckon there's 5 years in them as it stands, they won't take much fixing as it is, all this talk of welding is just paranoia.
OP, just keep an eye on them, a good body shop ought to be able to grind out the rust and fill/repair them for not a great deal of time or money. My view is that if you're not too bothered about a bit of cosmetic rust, they'll easily last the life of the car.
Edited by Super Slo Mo on Monday 30th November 11:08
There are some people seriously out of touch with where the prices of cheaper used cars have gone in the last 12 months. That CAP's at 950 and you could easily pay 1100 for that at auction plus £300 fees.
Accords do tend to scab up a bit in places - it is their only real achilles heel. On the upside they don't rust anywhere near as bad as Mercs and probably no worse than a BMW from the same era.
If it is mechanically sound it should have another 60k in it no problems if you look after it. The 2.4's are well worth seeking out over the 2.0's and tend to demand better money.
It isn't as good a buy as the first one, but it looks OK to me.
Accords do tend to scab up a bit in places - it is their only real achilles heel. On the upside they don't rust anywhere near as bad as Mercs and probably no worse than a BMW from the same era.
If it is mechanically sound it should have another 60k in it no problems if you look after it. The 2.4's are well worth seeking out over the 2.0's and tend to demand better money.
It isn't as good a buy as the first one, but it looks OK to me.
confused_buyer said:
There are some people seriously out of touch with where the prices of cheaper used cars have gone in the last 12 months. That CAP's at 950 and you could easily pay 1100 for that at auction plus £300 fees.
Accords do tend to scab up a bit in places - it is their only real achilles heel. On the upside they don't rust anywhere near as bad as Mercs and probably no worse than a BMW from the same era.
If it is mechanically sound it should have another 60k in it no problems if you look after it. The 2.4's are well worth seeking out over the 2.0's and tend to demand better money.
It isn't as good a buy as the first one, but it looks OK to me.
I did get another £95 off it so i paid £1400.Accords do tend to scab up a bit in places - it is their only real achilles heel. On the upside they don't rust anywhere near as bad as Mercs and probably no worse than a BMW from the same era.
If it is mechanically sound it should have another 60k in it no problems if you look after it. The 2.4's are well worth seeking out over the 2.0's and tend to demand better money.
It isn't as good a buy as the first one, but it looks OK to me.
danlightbulb said:
steveo3002 said:
one comment for you OP if you decide the have the rust done make sure its cut out and new metal welded in , it wont be cheap but should last , dont be tempted to get a mobile driveway repair becuase its £80 as it wont last
either get it done well or leave it
I need to find out more about it, but can't I just replace the rear panel from a scrappy?either get it done well or leave it
I'll probably put some rust treatment on it in the short term to stop it getting worse until I decide what the best approach is. I was thinking I'd have a go at it myself, sanding it back, treating it and then spraying over. Obviously I can't be cutting out metal.
I bought my car 5 years ago and it had a patch of rust on the boot. I had a fairly cheap smart repair done but after about 12 months the rust came back, as expected. It's been like that for 4 years now and although it is getting slowly worse it's never going to 'need' repairing.
danlightbulb said:
egor110 said:
I've just paid £560 to have both rear arches cut out of a camper , inner and outer skins replaced and sprayed up and waxoiled.
If you get it much cheaper i bet you they only actually replace the outer skin so on the surface it looks all nice but underneath the rust is still in the inner skin.
If i still have the car in a year i think thats a price id be willing to pay and seems reasonable. The rest of the bodywork is perfect. Can you say who you used?If you get it much cheaper i bet you they only actually replace the outer skin so on the surface it looks all nice but underneath the rust is still in the inner skin.
The price seemed to be about average for the south west.
This was on the Mrs camper , we've had it 10 years and will never sell it , if it was my Clio cup or the old 9-5,c5's I had in the past I'd just leave them until it became a problem at the mot then I'd just sell it on and get something different.
Got a real hankering for a grand Cherokee less than 10 months after selling my last one.
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