Drivers window mechanism

[Toby Tram]

Hi All

Finally I have got around to the first work on the Wedge for ages. The drivers window was not working. I could here the motor engaging but no action.

On dismantling it I found that the glass had actually come adrift from the channel that the bottom edge of it sits into. The channel is a bit rusty and bent. The rubber liner that cushions it has also sen better days.

Does anyone have a spare channel which they can sell to me? I am considering buying a replacement motor and that part of the mechanism from Rimmers but it doesn't appear to come with the channel for the glass.

Any help or guidance on where to get a replacement would be appreciated.

Thanks

Adi

[mrzigazaga]

Hi mate...Here is a post as regards to the runners...Hope this helps.
Cheers...Ziga
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=153...

[Toby Tram]

The other point I have noticed is that there is some slack in the system such that when I operate the up/down electric window switch there is a second or two of whirring before anything starts to move.

Looking at the motor box suggests that it isn't serviceable. Does anyone know whether that is the case?

Cheers

Adi

[Toby Tram]

Thanks Ziga.

How do you do that!! I used the search facility in the way it is described in the 'How to Search' section!! Maybe I'm sympathetically technophoebic!!

Any thoughts on the motor serviceability issue?

A.

[mrzigazaga]

Hi mate...Not sure if the motors are serviceable...I know if they are slow then they could be on their way out...My N/S was a bit slow but after some lube its back to normal operation...Are the teeth worn?...

As regards to the search facility i just put what i want to find in the search bar and it comes up with loads of possibilities...I normally always put the word "Wedge" before anything, You can bet that its been covered before...

[ibroker]

Toby

I have 2 brand new channels that the glass sits in that I had made. They gave me 2 spares? Your more than welcome to one for the price of a beer and postage.


I also have 4 new runner channels as well for the sides.

Mail me direct, not via the forum as that facility does not work.

[e-mail]

[TVRleigh_BBWR]

I 've found the gears normally wear out before the motor, and these are non serviceable, you can fit SD1 mechanism's but they need a slight mod before fitting, just copy the one you take off before re-fitting.

[marcus1875]

I've a complete unit if you need one. Motor, mechs, runners.
I'll take a pic and double check it works if you want it.
Marcus

[Toby Tram]

Thanks guys for the offers. I might still take you up on some of them.

I have bought a Land Rover Defender window channel. It's about the right length and proportions. The runners are the right dimensions.

I have different thicknesses of rubber to try out to protect the glass. The one I want to use is a bit on the thick side. It will hold the glass beautifully if I can get the glass into it.

So I have a question:- Is it feasible to fit the channel to the glass first before lowering it into the door and man-handling the lift mechanism into the runners etc? Or do I have to fit the lift mechanism and then lower the glass into the channel and force it in place?

Answers on a postcard!!!!

Adi

[marcus1875]

I fitted the mech first and lowered the glass into the channel. Easy peasy, no force required.
Marcus

[Toby Tram]

What did you use as the rubber liner then? Was it a tight fit? I presume it holds OK.

A.

[marcus1875]

Hi,
I'm not entirely sure what I used. I had bits from an MR2 and a BMW lying around at the time, that I nicked bits off so I might have used them, but I suspect I reused the ones that were there already.
Fit the mechanism, lower the glass into the channel, then raise the mechanism with the switch which pushed the glass into place. simples.
Marcus

[Toby Tram]

Thanks Marcus

That sounds a lot simpler than mine appears to be. My main concern is that the glass will pop out if not quite tight in the channel. I think I might try to source a thinner strip of rubber. I have got an inner tube which I have cut up but I think that will need to be doubled over to be thick enough and that might allow movement.......only want to do the job once as I just don't have time to re-do it!!!

A.

[adam quantrill]

The inner tube plus evostik will be fine. Rather than double it, stick the channel in a vice and squeeze it very slightly.