Heater controller
Discussion
Yep, right location for heater ecu.
Pin #16 is the problematic one - earth to ecu - marginal on current capacity. I had the unit repaired and checked by 'Electroversal' in the Bedford area. Good service - turned around and posted back in about 6 working days.
I still had to remake the connection to pin #16. Bought female pins from Racetech Direct and then soldered a heavier gauge wire to it then inserted into the connector socket. Seems to be lasting well.
However, before doing this check the blower motor. Access via N/S wheel arch, remove battery/cover, remove grp cover on outboard side of battery compartment (silicone and possibly self tappers to tub.) This allows access to heater blower - check/clean connections to motor and spray into motor. Situated, as it is, it sees moisture when driving as it's picked up from the road at the grill and is sucked via void between inner and outer wings into blower motor.
Nick
Pin #16 is the problematic one - earth to ecu - marginal on current capacity. I had the unit repaired and checked by 'Electroversal' in the Bedford area. Good service - turned around and posted back in about 6 working days.
I still had to remake the connection to pin #16. Bought female pins from Racetech Direct and then soldered a heavier gauge wire to it then inserted into the connector socket. Seems to be lasting well.
However, before doing this check the blower motor. Access via N/S wheel arch, remove battery/cover, remove grp cover on outboard side of battery compartment (silicone and possibly self tappers to tub.) This allows access to heater blower - check/clean connections to motor and spray into motor. Situated, as it is, it sees moisture when driving as it's picked up from the road at the grill and is sucked via void between inner and outer wings into blower motor.
Nick
Damn straight on marginal, but thats the way with most of the wiring!
However, RS sell these connectors at a better price,
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/circular-connector-c...
I "think" this is the right one, there is also another one by ITT cannon which could be the one, depends on exact plug! Just migth help.
J
However, RS sell these connectors at a better price,
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/circular-connector-c...
I "think" this is the right one, there is also another one by ITT cannon which could be the one, depends on exact plug! Just migth help.
J
tofts said:
Damn straight on marginal, but thats the way with most of the wiring!
However, RS sell these connectors at a better price,
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/circular-connector-c...
I "think" this is the right one, there is also another one by ITT cannon which could be the one, depends on exact plug! Just migth help.
J
....You don't need 50(!!) from RS components.However, RS sell these connectors at a better price,
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/circular-connector-c...
I "think" this is the right one, there is also another one by ITT cannon which could be the one, depends on exact plug! Just migth help.
J
Racetech sell them individually - OK, at a mark-up - but I bought 3 and had them posted for 5 quid.
Issue with the connector on the loom is that the pin gets so hot it melts the plastic surrounding the pin itself. I had to carefully cut plastic moulding around the original in order to remove it. With the new 'female' pin on the bench, I soldered a heavier gauge wire to it - rather than crimping, then cut the black/earth wire back and soldered the heavy gauge wire to the original loom. Heat shrink over the connections and then re-inserted pin into connector. A dab of Araldite Rapid on the 'cut' area of connector and it's been good - so far!
Nick
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