Older Bargain vs Newer Reliability

Older Bargain vs Newer Reliability

Author
Discussion

Alex_225

Original Poster:

6,261 posts

201 months

Wednesday 29th June 2016
quotequote all
TooMany2cvs said:
<scratches head>
Unrelated to the coupe/convertible idea that came up afterwards that is. Initially I suggested moving from a Focus diesel to a Golf GTi would be a good move in terms of build quality, comfort and fun.

Then she moved the goal posts to different types of cars entirely haha.

mcflurry

9,092 posts

253 months

Wednesday 29th June 2016
quotequote all
As I'm not especially mechanically minded I'd stick with the 3-5 year old sweet spot, where depreciation isn't as bad as new, but random bills are less likely than the bangeromic zone smile


Alex_225

Original Poster:

6,261 posts

201 months

Wednesday 29th June 2016
quotequote all
I'm no mechanic either unfortunately but I do have a few good mobile mechanics who are quick to help if I'm stuck with something (as well as friends).

You're right though, you'd expect a car that's 3-5 years old to have taken that initial depreciation but expect it to be more reliable than something 5-10 years older.

It's hard to advise someone else on as I know what I'm prepared for buying an older car but other people may not be.

patmahe

5,749 posts

204 months

Wednesday 29th June 2016
quotequote all
http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/2016...

I'd go for the above with 2k change, Lexus are famous for build quality and reliability, the only slight concern I'd have would be the CVT gearbox so I'd do my homework on that first. You could always go for the non-hybrid version if you don't fancy it.

xjay1337

15,966 posts

118 months

Wednesday 29th June 2016
quotequote all
patmahe said:
http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/2016...

I'd go for the above with 2k change, Lexus are famous for build quality and reliability, the only slight concern I'd have would be the CVT gearbox so I'd do my homework on that first. You could always go for the non-hybrid version if you don't fancy it.
What the fk is that where the rev counter should be?

TooMany2cvs

29,008 posts

126 months

Wednesday 29th June 2016
quotequote all
xjay1337 said:
What the fk is that where the rev counter should be?
There might be a clue in it saying "kW" on the dial.

Hybrid, so a tacho's not particularly relevant. So it shows the power being used - which'll be calculated from both electric and ICE. Lexus are probably not gutted that it's hardly dissimilar to Rolls's "power reserve" dial...

xjay1337

15,966 posts

118 months

Wednesday 29th June 2016
quotequote all
TooMany2cvs said:
There might be a clue in it saying "kW" on the dial.

Hybrid, so a tacho's not particularly relevant. So it shows the power being used - which'll be calculated from both electric and ICE. Lexus are probably not gutted that it's hardly dissimilar to Rolls's "power reserve" dial...
Ok - So if a tacho is not relevant, what % of time is the car operating on the engine rather than the electronic motor?
Seems a gimic biggrin

crofty1984

15,858 posts

204 months

Wednesday 29th June 2016
quotequote all
My vehicles were made in:
2010
1995
1985
1979
2010 again (though soon to be sold to buy something made in the 50's)

TooMany2cvs

29,008 posts

126 months

Wednesday 29th June 2016
quotequote all
xjay1337 said:
TooMany2cvs said:
There might be a clue in it saying "kW" on the dial.

Hybrid, so a tacho's not particularly relevant. So it shows the power being used - which'll be calculated from both electric and ICE. Lexus are probably not gutted that it's hardly dissimilar to Rolls's "power reserve" dial...
Ok - So if a tacho is not relevant, what % of time is the car operating on the engine rather than the electronic motor?
And what %age of the time is it operating on both...?
Remember, it's a CVT - so when the ICE's going, the revs will be within a fairly narrow range, governed almost exclusively by the throttle position.

xjay1337 said:
Seems a gimic biggrin
Well, yeh - "hybrid"...

Edited by TooMany2cvs on Wednesday 29th June 17:17

justanotherJC

383 posts

152 months

Wednesday 29th June 2016
quotequote all
xjay1337 said:
What the fk is that where the rev counter should be?
It's a hybrid, so I'm guessing it's the 'fuel' gauge.

edc

9,235 posts

251 months

Thursday 30th June 2016
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A £10k SLK might be a better bet than a £10k SL in your situation.

ZX10R NIN

27,598 posts

125 months

Thursday 30th June 2016
quotequote all
Well 10k will get you a whole lot of CLK you'll get a near last of the line one with full history low miles etc, the most expensive job will be a plug change as there are 12/16 depending on the engine.I'm bias but these are great cars & slightly underrated to.



CLK 280 Sport Coupe
http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/2016...

Convertible
http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/2016...

Or if you still want to keep costs down you can always go for the CLK200 which is a supercharged 4 pot.


http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/2016...

R6VED

1,370 posts

140 months

Thursday 30th June 2016
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When I was in this exact scenario some years ago I bought a Mercedes CLS 500 and loved it. £72k car new, bought at less than 10yrs old for less than £10k. It had £12k worth of extras and it amused me to have paid less for the whole car.

I escaped relatively unscathed after 2yrs and still miss that car.