car needs welding , no surprise , cost?
Discussion
big trousers said:
SEE YA said:
It sounds like you have to make a choice.One you patch it for Mot or restoration project if you wish to keep the car a while?
I have done a few,luckily did a welding course for a year NVQ.
The rust you see,will always get bigger once you start cutting away to find good metal.
As my teacher used to say, at college the difference between a good welder and a bad one?
Answer is 1000hours he was right.
ive done a spot of welding on a marine engineering course, not sure id be able to apply gas welding miniature rudders to restoring a car chassis though, plus my welding always looked sI have done a few,luckily did a welding course for a year NVQ.
The rust you see,will always get bigger once you start cutting away to find good metal.
As my teacher used to say, at college the difference between a good welder and a bad one?
Answer is 1000hours he was right.
t, all the decent looking 106s available at the moment are going for thousands, a cheap shell will likely have just as much or more problems than this car, i should add it was booked into kwik fit as ive just moved house lol, not sure if their expertise is to be trusted.Even the tyre was marked front this way.
I put in a complaint, all I got was no problem with it being fitted like that.
big trousers said:
ive done a spot of welding on a marine engineering course, not sure id be able to apply gas welding miniature rudders to restoring a car chassis though
No...MIG welding French tinfoil is a very different kettle of poisson.
SEE YA said:
I would not trust then,they put my wife's tyre on back to front.
Even the tyre was marked front this way.
I put in a complaint, all I got was no problem with it being fitted like that.
No, no problem. Apart, of course, from the minor issue of a wrong-way directional or assymetric tyre being an MOT fail.Even the tyre was marked front this way.
I put in a complaint, all I got was no problem with it being fitted like that.
TooMany2cvs said:
big trousers said:
ive done a spot of welding on a marine engineering course, not sure id be able to apply gas welding miniature rudders to restoring a car chassis though
No...MIG welding French tinfoil is a very different kettle of poisson.
SEE YA said:
I would not trust then,they put my wife's tyre on back to front.
Even the tyre was marked front this way.
I put in a complaint, all I got was no problem with it being fitted like that.
No, no problem. Apart, of course, from the minor issue of a wrong-way directional or assymetric tyre being an MOT fail.Even the tyre was marked front this way.
I put in a complaint, all I got was no problem with it being fitted like that.
Sounds like it might be a bit tricky once you set them at it.
106s go in 3 places without fail given long enough:
The boot floor - this is an easy fix - it's single-skinned and easy enough to strip down etc. It's also easy to fabricate the parts for it.
The front sill gussets, behind the wishbone mounts - these are again straight-forward, usually caused by someone jacking them up at these points or the anti-roll bar bushes wearing and letting the bar rub the underseal off the chassis. These are straight-forward as well, you can buy repair parts from Peugeot for about £70 which will weld straight in.
The front inner wings - where the ECU/battery sits on either side, sometimes this rot extends down to the chassis legs as well (depending how bad it is).
The latter is the worst job to sort, depending how bad it is you can even need the engine out etc to get decent access.
I'm rebuilding an S2 Rallye at the moment, and it's rotten all over!
106s go in 3 places without fail given long enough:
The boot floor - this is an easy fix - it's single-skinned and easy enough to strip down etc. It's also easy to fabricate the parts for it.
The front sill gussets, behind the wishbone mounts - these are again straight-forward, usually caused by someone jacking them up at these points or the anti-roll bar bushes wearing and letting the bar rub the underseal off the chassis. These are straight-forward as well, you can buy repair parts from Peugeot for about £70 which will weld straight in.
The front inner wings - where the ECU/battery sits on either side, sometimes this rot extends down to the chassis legs as well (depending how bad it is).
The latter is the worst job to sort, depending how bad it is you can even need the engine out etc to get decent access.
I'm rebuilding an S2 Rallye at the moment, and it's rotten all over!
Krikkit said:
Sounds like it might be a bit tricky once you set them at it.
106s go in 3 places without fail given long enough:
The boot floor - this is an easy fix - it's single-skinned and easy enough to strip down etc. It's also easy to fabricate the parts for it.
The front sill gussets, behind the wishbone mounts - these are again straight-forward... you can buy repair parts from Peugeot for about £70 which will weld straight in.
The front inner wings - where the ECU/battery sits on either side, sometimes this rot extends down to the chassis legs as well (depending how bad it is).
So on this basis, even if our hero can't weld, we are looking at:106s go in 3 places without fail given long enough:
The boot floor - this is an easy fix - it's single-skinned and easy enough to strip down etc. It's also easy to fabricate the parts for it.
The front sill gussets, behind the wishbone mounts - these are again straight-forward... you can buy repair parts from Peugeot for about £70 which will weld straight in.
The front inner wings - where the ECU/battery sits on either side, sometimes this rot extends down to the chassis legs as well (depending how bad it is).
Boot floor - no probs.
Front sills - couple of hundred, no real probs.
Inner wings - possible deal breaker.
So there you go OP, how much needs welding up and how much is just a clean up and underseal/Waxoyl?
I disagree with TooMany2CVs and others who are saying re-shell it. They must not realise that honest 106 GTIs are few and far between these days.
That said OP you haven't given us any chance whatsoever of offering useful advice- you've just said there's 'rust' and it's on the 'underside'... How are we supposed to know? Tell us where the rust is, poke about under there with a screwdriver.
That said OP you haven't given us any chance whatsoever of offering useful advice- you've just said there's 'rust' and it's on the 'underside'... How are we supposed to know? Tell us where the rust is, poke about under there with a screwdriver.
i will try get pictures up today of the cars offending rusty bits, it honestly doesnt look that bad to me, but my knowledge of cars is limited to say the least.
reason i asked what the price of doing the whole shell/chassis would be to cover all outcomes at the very worst end of the scale to see what id be looking at, staying so close to the north sea probably doesnt help matters, im surprised the engine even started as ive not really looked after the car, just used it for going to and from work on farm roads lol, with all the problems i had with my 6 series though im looking forward to going back to cheap and cheerful.
reason i asked what the price of doing the whole shell/chassis would be to cover all outcomes at the very worst end of the scale to see what id be looking at, staying so close to the north sea probably doesnt help matters, im surprised the engine even started as ive not really looked after the car, just used it for going to and from work on farm roads lol, with all the problems i had with my 6 series though im looking forward to going back to cheap and cheerful.
You say it wants welding, are there actual holes? If not and it's just standard underbody corrosion then spraying Waxoyl (or just used engine oil if you are a cheapskate) underneath will hold it back for a year or two. Depending on the state of the rest of the car, that might be long enough.
battered said:
You say it wants welding, are there actual holes? If not and it's just standard underbody corrosion then spraying Waxoyl (or just used engine oil if you are a cheapskate) underneath will hold it back for a year or two. Depending on the state of the rest of the car, that might be long enough.
gonna be taking it to my mate who races rally cars and get him to have a gander at it , not entirely sure i hold much faith in kwik fits opinion, tried charging my 500 odd a tyre for the 645 once, got them to 240 a tyre after telling them to wise up, i think the problem might be kwik fit.
Djtemeka said:
shame its so far away 
im quite ocd when i get an idea into my head about something, i want the car to be as safe as possible so that if i do end up in the pastures that the car doesnt fold up and kill me in the process.going to go over and rip out the interior today and get some pictures of the damage
big trousers said:
996TT02 said:
Buy a boggo clean 106 and transfer all the go faster bits to it.
It will cost you around 1/4 the cost of doing up the rust on yours, which do-up will probably need re-doing very soon.
the clean ones are going for 4k+ at the moment, the poorer quality ones are around a grand with alot of work needing done, most of these cars have been wrapped round trees by now, i witnessed with my own eyes a 106 gti die at the hands of a piss poor driver, came off the roundabout at aberdeen beach, floored it to impress whoever his passenger was, ends up wiping out a lampost in a straight line, standard brakes with a 1,8 engine.It will cost you around 1/4 the cost of doing up the rust on yours, which do-up will probably need re-doing very soon.
did have a good giggle at their expense so it wasnt for nothing
http://www.pistonheads.com/classifieds/used-cars/p...
One thing i will say, is that what you see is literally just the surface. There will be far more needing cut out and replaced than what you think.
As people have said already, the only way to do it properly in order to make it factory fresh is to acid dip it, then get the bad bits cut out and replaced, using OEM panels where possible.
Its a standard routine for mini owners than have the cash. You are talking thousands.
As people have said already, the only way to do it properly in order to make it factory fresh is to acid dip it, then get the bad bits cut out and replaced, using OEM panels where possible.
Its a standard routine for mini owners than have the cash. You are talking thousands.
996TT02 said:
wouldnt it be a pissabout getting a 1,1 re registered as a gti though?i dont mind spending thousands if itll last another 15 years, i really dont want to buy someone elses problems that they have bodged to get through an mot, buy cheap buy twice is something i live my life by based on experiences
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