Repair or punt - what would you do?

[TheJimi]

Looking for some perspective here.

In June, I bought a 2005 EP3 Civic Type R (AC model, if it makes a difference)

Car’s in Cosmic Grey, which seems to be the most desirable colour, is in tremendous overall condition, with a few interesting bits on it. Car is now on 97k, with very comprehensive service history.

I bought the car for 4350, which I think was a bit over the odds, but I was willing to pay the premium based on the condition, bits and history.

Ok, my conundrum is thus - since buying the car, it’s became obvious that the gearbox synchros need replaced, and since the gearbox would already be out, it would make sense to replace the clutch – bill will be c£780ish.

I’ve already spent £260 getting a couple of gaskets replaced and the geometry setup properly. My issue is that I don’t think the car is “worth” spending an extra 780 quid on. It’s only an EP3 after all.

So my options are to either sell it priced to take the above into account or get the synchros done and risk an even bigger hit at resale next year.

Currently, I’m leaning towards punting it now and cutting my losses. The car was only supposed to be an itch-scratch, and I really don’t see the value in getting it repaired. However, maybe I’m wrong in that, so hence the question

To be clear, it’s not a question of affordability, rather, it’s a question of value…

Any thoughts?

[Vitorio]

TheJimi said:

resale next year.

Are you going to get rid of it next year anyway? If so investing in the repair doesnt make too much sense, depending on how much you would need to drop the price to shift it in its current state.

Honestly, an 800 quid bill on a 4K car doesnt sound too bad

[andy-xr]

You'll take a bigger hit than that selling it assuming you tell the next owner, or they figure it out.

If I had the cash, I'd shop around and get it done, keep it for a bit and then sell it on next year when you've had some value for the money you've spent on it. It'll be an easier sell and give a buyer more confidence, cos right now your ad is going to read 'spent loads, needs more spending, it's £3000 come buy it'

[TheJimi]

To answer questions -

Yes, I'd be upfront & give detailed info to any prospective buyer, inc contact details of a specialist who's been over the car with a fine tooth comb.

Yes, I can afford to repair it, I'm just questioning the value in doing so.

[hornetrider]

Fix it, enjoy it. That's why you bought it after all, to enjoy it. Right?

[Alex_225]

hornetrider said:

Fix it, enjoy it. That's why you bought it after all, to enjoy it. Right?

That was my thinking.

I had a Saab 9-3, only owned it 6 months but in that time I spent £600 getting it up to the standard I wanted mechanically. I didn't need to change the steering rack when I did as could have just kept topping up the power steering fluid but glad I did as wouldn't have sold it for what I did if I'd have been honest when selling (which I would).

Fix it, enjoy it. Then sell up next year and get good money for it.

[SuperVM]

I'd fix it, as I imagine the difference between the price you'll achieve selling it repaired vs. the price you'll achieve selling it with the fault is greater than the repair cost. Plus, the EP3s are known for chewing synchros and you can now sell it with that issue resolved, thus making it even more attractive to a buyer.

[FN2TypeR]

hornetrider said:

Fix it, enjoy it. That's why you bought it after all, to enjoy it. Right?

I feel inclined to agree, repair the car and enjoy it for as long as you intended to, that's what I would do, along with a decent service if needed, obviously the transmission fluid will be new too that's you good for a few more miles after the fact

I think if you sold it knackered you'd lose more than selling it in 12 months in a usable condition, plus you'd have the joy of running the car for that period which is something you clearly wanted to do - that's got to be worth something right?

Keep it and fit an LSD

[TheJimi]

To be fair it's not "knackered" - the car is fully drivable, the issue only really becomes apparent when changing gears at high revs, ie top end of the rev range in VTEC. Otherwise, you'd never know.

Thanks for the feedback all, good to get some different perspectives.

[kayzee]

£4,350 is a lot of money to some people, and your repair bill really isn't that crazy.

I had similar actually, spent £900 repairing a £2,500 car! Which I eventually ended up selling for £850 4 years later but I still really enjoyed the car whilst I owned it.

Depends how long you were going to keep this car for originally I suppose. Either way, I'd feel better selling a car that was fully working, personally.

[TheJimi]

To be clear, re your comment about feeling better selling a working car, I would disclose the issue, as I said above.

I originally intended to keep it for a year.

900 quid on a 2.5k motor?!

[edo]

Trade it in ?

[battered]

Repair it or take a bigger hit seling.

I'd take a £1k bill on a £2.5k motor.What choice do you have?

In addition, £900 plus £2.5k less £850/4 years is only £600 a year, give or take. Hardly Ferrari money.

Edited by battered on Tuesday 16th August 14:31

[sherman]

If you are looking for a private sale repair it. If you are trading it in as long as it gets on to the forecourt and doesnt sound broken you will be fine.

[bearman3784]

TheJimi said:

To be fair it's not "knackered" - the car is fully drivable, the issue only really becomes apparent when changing gears at high revs, ie top end of the rev range in VTEC. Otherwise, you'd never know.

Thanks for the feedback all, good to get some different perspectives.

That just sounds like the clutch needs replacing

[TheJimi]

bearman3784 said:

TheJimi said:

To be fair it's not "knackered" - the car is fully drivable, the issue only really becomes apparent when changing gears at high revs, ie top end of the rev range in VTEC. Otherwise, you'd never know.

Thanks for the feedback all, good to get some different perspectives.

That just sounds like the clutch needs replacing

To describe the issues -

Changing up at high revs, beyond vtec engagement (yo!) is a bit difficult and requires a slight pause and a positive movement to overcome the "notch".

While in-gear, in third gear in particular, it's a bit too easy to knock it out of gear.  It doesn't jump out of gear itself, but there's little to no resistance.

All of which points towards gear selection & retention issues, ergo, worn synchros.  It's on the original clutch, so yes, that probably isn't helping matters and changing the clutch alone would probably make quite a difference, but given the labour charges, simply changing the clutch alone is a bit of a gamble if, after it's put together again, it transpires that the gearbox does indeed need to be done.

The only thing that's confusing me a bit is that I'm getting conflicted advice as to whether or not I need the baulk rings as well as the synchros; one specialist is pretty adamant that baulk rings are needed, whereas the other specialist is says "95% of the time, the original baulk rings can be re-used and just the synchros are replaced"

Both specialists are extremely highly regarded in the community, so I suspect that it's just a difference in approach.

[jhonn]

Have you tried changing your transmission oil? not sure what your car takes but I do know if you use the wrong grade (e.g. GL5 instead of GL4) it can affect the white metal in the synchros.

I've had great results with Castrol Syntrax full synthetic - it completely cured the notchiness I had in a Jeep transmission.

It's pricy, but not as expensive as a gearbox rebuild.

[kurwa]

battered said:

Repair it or take a bigger hit seling.

I'd take a £1k bill on a £2.5k motor.What choice do you have?

In addition, £900 plus £2.5k less £850/4 years is only £600 a year, give or take. Hardly Ferrari money.

Edited by battered on Tuesday 16th August 14:31

He got choice of just keeping quiet about the problem and selling the car as-is.
Spending £1k on a £2.5k car just to sell it later on is Just NUUUTS! not Nuts but you must be totally daft to do that..
If you intend to keep the car and it's a good car, than sure. but why would you sink so much $ in something that you want to sell right after?

[TheJimi]

jhonn said:

Have you tried changing your transmission oil? not sure what your car takes but I do know if you use the wrong grade (e.g. GL5 instead of GL4) it can affect the white metal in the synchros.

I've had great results with Castrol Syntrax full synthetic - it completely cured the notchiness I had in a Jeep transmission.

It's pricy, but not as expensive as a gearbox rebuild.

Yep, gearbox oil was changed, in the hope that it would make a difference. It did, but not enough, unfortunately!

[TheJimi]

Anyone else?!