Any ideas on how to get this undone?!
Discussion
I'd definitely recommend tightening them first, it should break the friction which is holding the nut/bolt in place. I'd also agree with the guy who said put the other bolts back on and tighten them up (apply a tiny smear of copper grease to the threads first). You might get some help by chilling the bolt with IPA first.
Too many people saying drive it somewhere. HE CAN'T, IT'S NOT DRIVEABLE
As asked before, was it a battery powered impact wrench, or a mains electric/ air one? If you have air, borrow an air hammer, use a flat bit to do the hammering described, then loosen them off with your bar.
If at all possible, it would be better to have a breaker bar and deep (5 sided) socket, rather than those crappy + shaped braces.
As asked before, was it a battery powered impact wrench, or a mains electric/ air one? If you have air, borrow an air hammer, use a flat bit to do the hammering described, then loosen them off with your bar.
If at all possible, it would be better to have a breaker bar and deep (5 sided) socket, rather than those crappy + shaped braces.
Rumblestripe said:
I'd definitely recommend tightening them first, it should break the friction which is holding the nut/bolt in place. I'd also agree with the guy who said put the other bolts back on and tighten them up (apply a tiny smear of copper grease to the threads first). You might get some help by chilling the bolt with IPA first.
?
One of these plus a good quality socket would do the job quite easily.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/POWERHAND-650-1-2-DRIVE-...
I know as I had the same problem, using the torque multiplier ensures the force is directly on the nut, not via lots of bendy bars etc.
If you were to try a powerful air tool its worth noting that the really powerful air tools need a LOT of air which means decent sized air lines and connectors throughout and a reasonably sized tank.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/POWERHAND-650-1-2-DRIVE-...
I know as I had the same problem, using the torque multiplier ensures the force is directly on the nut, not via lots of bendy bars etc.
If you were to try a powerful air tool its worth noting that the really powerful air tools need a LOT of air which means decent sized air lines and connectors throughout and a reasonably sized tank.
Edited by richard sails on Thursday 29th September 13:22
eltax91 said:
Too many people saying drive it somewhere. HE CAN'T, IT'S NOT DRIVEABLE
I was just about to reply the same thing. You do wonder whether anyone reads threads before chucking in a "helpful" reply.OP - The only thing I can think of is to do what someone suggested, and use the weight of the car. Your bolt should undo before you break a decent wrench/bar, even if it's bending now.
The Moose said:
We managed to get 3 of the 5 off but the remaining 2 are rather stubborn.
Any ideas on how to remove the remaining 2 without fking up more tools?!
Take the three that you have managed to remove, lube the threads, put them back on the studs and tighten them up (tight).Any ideas on how to remove the remaining 2 without fking up more tools?!
Now try and remove one of the two stubborn ones.
If one of them comes undone take it off lube it and replace (tight) - then try the last one.
We've found that to work before. (the more nuts you remove the more difficult it becomes to remove the remaining ones)
If you're really having problems you need one of these....
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00I9GK74Q/ref...
Good for 3500ft/lbs ish if I recall correctly.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00I9GK74Q/ref...
Good for 3500ft/lbs ish if I recall correctly.
Edited by BugLebowski on Thursday 29th September 13:40
jhonn said:
Take the three that you have managed to remove, lube the threads, put them back on the studs and tighten them up (tight).
Now try and remove one of the two stubborn ones.
If one of them comes undone take it off lube it and replace (tight) - then try the last one.
We've found that to work before. (the more nuts you remove the more difficult it becomes to remove the remaining ones)
This would be my choice on how to tackle the problem, perhaps assisted with a can of Loctite Freeze and Release stuff. Now try and remove one of the two stubborn ones.
If one of them comes undone take it off lube it and replace (tight) - then try the last one.
We've found that to work before. (the more nuts you remove the more difficult it becomes to remove the remaining ones)
BugLebowski said:
If you're really having problems you need one of these....
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00I9GK74Q/ref...
Good for 3500ft/lbs ish if I recall correctly.
Great for truck wheels but no good for the OP as there is nowhere to brace the lever arm against, the one I linked to has an extended arm that braces against the ground.https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00I9GK74Q/ref...
Good for 3500ft/lbs ish if I recall correctly.
Edited by BugLebowski on Thursday 29th September 13:40
I doubt it's the fault of the tyre monkeys. We have a CP 1/2inch drive impact wrench and I have it cranked right up to tighten the wheel nuts (32mm) on my tractor, then get several feet of bar on a 3/4 inch drive socket and yank down on it with all my might to get the muthas tight enough and they always come undone without issue. I would expect that there is a bit of a reaction betwix the alloy wheel and steel hub the gets very hot under braking.
Half of the problem of not getting them undone is the plasticine bar and extension that are flexing under load and taking the sting out of the force.
Half of the problem of not getting them undone is the plasticine bar and extension that are flexing under load and taking the sting out of the force.
Take off and nuke the site from orbit. Its the only way to be sure.
Seriously.
Better tool - I've got a 4 foot snap-on breaker bar that is b'stard heavy and does not bend. 3/4 drive, so it won't break either.
Impact gun - will be far more effective, need a decent air supply to drive it properly. I've never had a nut that failed to yield to a decent 1/2 gun, 3/4 guns on short hoses laugh at things like this. The impact aspect is important - leave it hammering for at least a minute before giving up.
The chap who is saying wallop the bolts sounds pretty confident - I'd try this.
Seriously.
Better tool - I've got a 4 foot snap-on breaker bar that is b'stard heavy and does not bend. 3/4 drive, so it won't break either.
Impact gun - will be far more effective, need a decent air supply to drive it properly. I've never had a nut that failed to yield to a decent 1/2 gun, 3/4 guns on short hoses laugh at things like this. The impact aspect is important - leave it hammering for at least a minute before giving up.
The chap who is saying wallop the bolts sounds pretty confident - I'd try this.
SUCCESS!!!!
I was passing a tool shop earlier so I went in and bought the biggest breaker bar they had (was quite dissapointed it was only 24" really) and the most manly socket on the basis I could fk that one up with a hammer if I needed to. The hammer being the last resort as I really don't like to repeatedly hit things (other than the misses of course *).
Anyway, I used a similar technique to last night but with seemingly better tools and after a couple of bounces they reluctantly undid.
Thank you for the suggestions and help chaps - got there in the end!
* This is of course said in jest
I was passing a tool shop earlier so I went in and bought the biggest breaker bar they had (was quite dissapointed it was only 24" really) and the most manly socket on the basis I could fk that one up with a hammer if I needed to. The hammer being the last resort as I really don't like to repeatedly hit things (other than the misses of course *).
Anyway, I used a similar technique to last night but with seemingly better tools and after a couple of bounces they reluctantly undid.
Thank you for the suggestions and help chaps - got there in the end!
* This is of course said in jest
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