Struggling to drill through stainless steel bolt
Discussion
Hi,
I recently bought a old Mini MPi, it's the first car I've ever had and I bought it to learn some basic mechanical skills, along with the fact they're just frigging cool! Anyhoo it's revealing issues around every corner, which is what I need I suppose, the latest is a seized bolt on the ball joint end of the tie bar, I've tried all I can with the access I have (very little) so my last option is to drill it out. I've never drilled into stainless steel before, I quickly found out my HSS bits weren't going to cut it so I bought some cobalt bits and some cutting fluid, I was suprised it barely made a scratch but figured the issue must be my drill, it's a cheapy, a 12V cordless Black n Decker costing £40 about 3 years ago, I tried various speeds, taking my time, I used a centre punch also.
Is it my crappy drill? If so can someone advise me on a adequate replacement please, I'm a total newb and the options are baffling me, I don't have a lot to spend as I've got new tools coming out my rear, the mrs will kill me soon. I was looking at these two:
http://www.screwfix.com/p/bosch-gsb-18-2-li-plus-1...
http://www.screwfix.com/p/makita-dhp453rfw-18v-3-0...
Thanks for any help.
Keep on fishin'
I recently bought a old Mini MPi, it's the first car I've ever had and I bought it to learn some basic mechanical skills, along with the fact they're just frigging cool! Anyhoo it's revealing issues around every corner, which is what I need I suppose, the latest is a seized bolt on the ball joint end of the tie bar, I've tried all I can with the access I have (very little) so my last option is to drill it out. I've never drilled into stainless steel before, I quickly found out my HSS bits weren't going to cut it so I bought some cobalt bits and some cutting fluid, I was suprised it barely made a scratch but figured the issue must be my drill, it's a cheapy, a 12V cordless Black n Decker costing £40 about 3 years ago, I tried various speeds, taking my time, I used a centre punch also.
Is it my crappy drill? If so can someone advise me on a adequate replacement please, I'm a total newb and the options are baffling me, I don't have a lot to spend as I've got new tools coming out my rear, the mrs will kill me soon. I was looking at these two:
http://www.screwfix.com/p/bosch-gsb-18-2-li-plus-1...
http://www.screwfix.com/p/makita-dhp453rfw-18v-3-0...
Thanks for any help.
Keep on fishin'
TTP Hard Drill Bits are what you need. Low speed and medium pressure to stop the drill overheating.
Something like this.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/TTP-HARD-stainless-alumin...
Something like this.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/TTP-HARD-stainless-alumin...
Decent HSS will tackle stainless. You do need a drill with some poke, cordless is seldom up to the task unless it's expensive. If it gets hot then mixing up an emulsion of water and oil (any oil) with Fairy is a good lubricant and coolant. Either squirt it from a squeezy bottle or tosh it on with an old brush now and again. An assistant is useful.
So it's not my drill?
I was drilling with a 2mm bit, it's a M8 bolt, I figured that was a ok pilot size?
Hmmm, they look very similar to my cobalt bits although I'm not sure if mine have a tungsten and molybdenum base, these are mine: http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p68884
I was drilling with a 2mm bit, it's a M8 bolt, I figured that was a ok pilot size?
Hmmm, they look very similar to my cobalt bits although I'm not sure if mine have a tungsten and molybdenum base, these are mine: http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p68884
QUOTE Decent HSS will tackle stainless. You do need a drill with some poke, cordless is seldom up to the task unless it's expensive. If it gets hot then mixing up an emulsion of water and oil (any oil) with Fairy is a good lubricant and coolant. Either squirt it from a squeezy bottle or tosh it on with an old brush now and again. An assistant is useful.
I got some cooling fluid cheers, so in the 2 drills I linked 2 probably won't do it either?
QUOTE Can you get a grinder in there to cut the head off it?
Yup I already did that, also a lot of blunt force, infact both ends now have a slightly flattened end, it's proper buggered.
I got some cooling fluid cheers, so in the 2 drills I linked 2 probably won't do it either?
QUOTE Can you get a grinder in there to cut the head off it?
Yup I already did that, also a lot of blunt force, infact both ends now have a slightly flattened end, it's proper buggered.
fishkeeper84 said:
So it's not my drill?
I was drilling with a 2mm bit, it's a M8 bolt, I figured that was a ok pilot size?
Hmmm, they look very similar to my cobalt bits although I'm not sure if mine have a tungsten and molybdenum base, these are mine: http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p68884
I'd go for a 3mm bit, you can't put a lot of feed onto a 2mm bit. Drill it in stages so you don't overheat the tip.I was drilling with a 2mm bit, it's a M8 bolt, I figured that was a ok pilot size?
Hmmm, they look very similar to my cobalt bits although I'm not sure if mine have a tungsten and molybdenum base, these are mine: http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p68884
Never had a bolt yet that hasn't succumbed to Mr Angry Grinder and one of these:
http://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-cutting-discs-11...
http://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-cutting-discs-11...
QUOTE I'd go for a 3mm bit, you can't put a lot of feed onto a 2mm bit. Drill it in stages so you don't overheat the tip.
Cheers
QUOTE Never had a bolt yet that hasn't succumbed to Mr Angry Grinder and one of these:
http://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-cutting-discs-11...
I have these discs but I don't want to cut the mounting as it's a £150 replacement, can you explain a little more.
QUOTE Not a good idea to bolt suspension together with stainless bolts they can snap too easily. Use the correct fixings. Plus it should not be ceased if it is stainless,that is the point of stainless bolts.
It's what was in there so I'm only presuming that it's stainless steel. I've been practicing on a new stainless steel M8 bolt in a vice, not the seized bolt in the tie bar.
Cheers
QUOTE Never had a bolt yet that hasn't succumbed to Mr Angry Grinder and one of these:
http://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-cutting-discs-11...
I have these discs but I don't want to cut the mounting as it's a £150 replacement, can you explain a little more.
QUOTE Not a good idea to bolt suspension together with stainless bolts they can snap too easily. Use the correct fixings. Plus it should not be ceased if it is stainless,that is the point of stainless bolts.
It's what was in there so I'm only presuming that it's stainless steel. I've been practicing on a new stainless steel M8 bolt in a vice, not the seized bolt in the tie bar.
ARHarh said:
...it should not be ceased if it is stainless,that is the point of stainless bolts.
It will have reacted with the steel, stainless fixings should only be in contact with more stainless, or else galvanic corrosion will occur. Even then, stainless should not be used for structural stuff, as it has a tendency to gall, which gives a false torque reading.fishkeeper84 said:
I have these discs but I don't want to cut the mounting as it's a £150 replacement, can you explain a little more.
Holding the disc almost flush to the surface it bolts through cut across the head of the bolt (or nut). The remains of the head will then fall off and you can push the remains of the bolt though the hole. Alternatively cut length ways down the nut and split it. nut falls off, bolt falls out.
lostkiwi said:
Holding the disc almost flush to the surface it bolts through cut across the head of the bolt (or nut). The remains of the head will then fall off and you can push the remains of the bolt though the hole.
Alternatively cut length ways down the nut and split it. nut falls off, bolt falls out.
Alternatively cut length ways down the nut and split it. nut falls off, bolt falls out.
I presume this is the bolt?
Colbalt drill bits work very well, for example - http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Power+Tool+Accesso...
As the chap above says though, cutting the head off will be easier.
As the chap above says though, cutting the head off will be easier.
Ive been drilling stainless steels all my working career, and generally only use HSS, needs to be sharp and kept cool or as others have said it will work harden then your stuffed.
your biggest problem when working hand held is getting enough pressure on it and holding the bolt still while your drilling it.
Drilling metals on millling machines and lathes is easy, but I'm always amazed by how hard it is to do at home with hand tools.
your biggest problem when working hand held is getting enough pressure on it and holding the bolt still while your drilling it.
Drilling metals on millling machines and lathes is easy, but I'm always amazed by how hard it is to do at home with hand tools.
If access for a normal angle grinder is a problem then consider a Dremel with flexi drive and their tiny cutting discs. Wonderful for getting into tight spots & another of those tools that I wonder how I managed (or should that be struggled?) before I bought one.
Post a pic of what you're trying to do.
Post a pic of what you're trying to do.
Gassing Station | General Gassing | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff