Handbrake cable removal
Poll: Handbrake cable removal
Total Members Polled: 6
Discussion
silly question, but the handrake is off isnt it?
is the lever on the caliper seized? if not move it down whilst pulling the eye off the hook (another pair of hands useful)
if all else fails clamp up the spring in suitable grips,undo the retaining bolt for the spring and remove, then operate the lever to its
lowest position whilst pulling the eye off the hook. (WARNING do not let the spring go it may be the last you ever see of it especisally if it hits you in the face!!)
is the lever on the caliper seized? if not move it down whilst pulling the eye off the hook (another pair of hands useful)
if all else fails clamp up the spring in suitable grips,undo the retaining bolt for the spring and remove, then operate the lever to its
lowest position whilst pulling the eye off the hook. (WARNING do not let the spring go it may be the last you ever see of it especisally if it hits you in the face!!)
I've removed the springs from the caliper and wound both adjusters in, handbrake is off (don't blame you for asking seeing as I couldn't figure out how to get that plastic thing off 
)
The cable is still attached to the handbrake, I could only see split pin connectors from underneath (exhaust is off) so was hoping that the cable could be removed from the caliper without me taking the interior apart. I can't get enough slack to feed the end of the cable off of the hook on the caliper, is taking the cable off of the handbrake lever the way forward?
)The cable is still attached to the handbrake, I could only see split pin connectors from underneath (exhaust is off) so was hoping that the cable could be removed from the caliper without me taking the interior apart. I can't get enough slack to feed the end of the cable off of the hook on the caliper, is taking the cable off of the handbrake lever the way forward?
Have you removed the adjuster & locknut from the bracket near the diff?
are you replacing the cable ? if so just cut the cable at the calipers and save yourself the fight.
if not, it might sound stupid but put the cable (plastic plug) back in the caliper and get a good set of grips on the cable itself and give it a good tug to get as much slack through as possible.
As you have the exhaust off you can just remove the split pin holding the cable to the handbrake and pull more slack through at the caliper end
You could also try a sturdy flat blade driver in the cable end/eyelet and persuade it off the end of the hook
are you replacing the cable ? if so just cut the cable at the calipers and save yourself the fight.
if not, it might sound stupid but put the cable (plastic plug) back in the caliper and get a good set of grips on the cable itself and give it a good tug to get as much slack through as possible.
As you have the exhaust off you can just remove the split pin holding the cable to the handbrake and pull more slack through at the caliper end
You could also try a sturdy flat blade driver in the cable end/eyelet and persuade it off the end of the hook
Edited by ukdj on Saturday 22 October 20:08
I didn't remove the adjuster, I just wound it all the way in. I'll have another look tomorrow to see if I can get any more slack that way, if not I'll take the cable off of the lever. Already tried grips, there's no way it'll come off without more slack, looks fairly new so maybe it's a dodgy pattern part if they're normally easier to remove than this 
according to the Haynes Sierra manual you need to remove the handbrake retaining circlip from the outer cable to be able to pull it through the caliper bracket.
Looking at the picture in the manual there is a circlip pressed over the white plastic sheath right next to the bracket. Oddly enough it only mentions this is for the right-hand caliper (which is the left one on the TVR)
Looking at the picture in the manual there is a circlip pressed over the white plastic sheath right next to the bracket. Oddly enough it only mentions this is for the right-hand caliper (which is the left one on the TVR)
1. Handbrake off.
2. Separate the lock ring from the cable adjuster above the diff. Hold the front part and unscrew the ring (the rear part).
3. Slacken the adjuster on the outer cable all the way back. i.e. wind it anticlockwise at least 20 turns.
4. With the outer cable (white plastic collar) still fitted in the caliper, lift the cable end up to unhook it from the lever. At the same time, use a screwdriver to press down on the lever to give you maximum space.
5. The cable end eye will just come off the hook.
I changed mine only a couple of weeks ago and found the problem you have. Once I had slackened the cable adjuster all the way back this gave the inner cable enough slack to free it off.
2. Separate the lock ring from the cable adjuster above the diff. Hold the front part and unscrew the ring (the rear part).
3. Slacken the adjuster on the outer cable all the way back. i.e. wind it anticlockwise at least 20 turns.
4. With the outer cable (white plastic collar) still fitted in the caliper, lift the cable end up to unhook it from the lever. At the same time, use a screwdriver to press down on the lever to give you maximum space.
5. The cable end eye will just come off the hook.
I changed mine only a couple of weeks ago and found the problem you have. Once I had slackened the cable adjuster all the way back this gave the inner cable enough slack to free it off.
s p a c e m a n said:
Been roped into going out for Christmas decorations (the missus has issues) 
Will hopefully be on this when I get home as it's all that I can think about at the moment (I have issues)
Was roped into new house hunting yesterday and roped in to going to the cinema to see Trolls today...when I just wanted to get some hours in playing Will hopefully be on this when I get home as it's all that I can think about at the moment (I have issues)
and its dry and sunny...ish• lower coilovers at rear
• brake switch adjustment needed for lights
• bought new rear N/S lense needs swapping..I broke the last one being heavy handed
and now handbrake cable
Cheers for the tips.
Cheers for the tips people, and anyone struggling with this in the future... get a pair of grips and force the cable all the way down on one caliper and grip it there, that gives you just enough slack to get the cable off of the other caliper without removing it from the handbrake lever.
I've just done a replacement of the handbrake cable assembly, it's largely as described her, but here's my step by step in case it's useful.
I had to replace because the previous owner had installed a new cable during resto, but had fitted the adjuster wrong - he'd positioned the adjuster part in front of the lug, and the locking nut behind, so all the force was on the locking nut only. Eventually it gave up and slipped back on the cable, leaving me with zero handbrake. (note the oil splatter is me neglecting to clean up properly after regreasing the prop UJ)
So I fitted the new cable last night. Not technically difficult at all, just a bit fiddly.
Need to raise the back of the car and take the rear wheels off, but also (on the Chim) remove the centre console to reveal a panel that covers the handbrake and gear stick fixings. Then follow my scratty sketch...
1. First step is to loosen the adjuster via the offside wheel arch - it's threaded, so just turn it to move it towards the back of the car. In my case, all this was already loose of course.
2. Then you can go to the nearside wheel arch, reach right in and pull the bracket out the lug just behind the fuel filter. Just pull towards you.
3. Then you can unbolt the handbrake lever to lift it up and get to the 4. split pin holding the cable bracket to the lever mechanism, be careful not to drop any of the bolts and washers around that whole bit - if you do they land in the tray beneath the exhaust box, right below the prop and other moving parts - imperative to retrieve anything from there!
5. After that you unhook the end of the cable from the rear of the brake callipers, and then pull the cable end down through the hole on the calliper - it all comes out.
6. Then up through a lug hole on the inner chassis.
Then remove the half moon shaped bracket that fitted to the handbrake lever, and you can pull it all out through one side if you do it this way. Alternatively you're pulling it all through the handbrake hole and into the car, which means dirty oily stuff inside the car.
Installation of a clean new cable I did from the inside by feeding the ends down through the handbrake hole, then fitting the half moon bracket to the handbrake lever (I could reuse my split pin, but others may need a new one), then fed the ends through the right route - be careful to pass through the right bits of space in the chassis spine, and go either side of the diff speed sensor, also make sure you're not tangled on its wire.
Push back into the lugs, grommets in place, hook up the ends on the callipers, bolt the handbrake back on, then start tightening the adjuster until you're happy with 3 or 4 clicks pulling tight on the lever.
It's all quite obvious when you're look at it, just mostly awkward routing the cable around the diff and fuel filter.
I had to replace because the previous owner had installed a new cable during resto, but had fitted the adjuster wrong - he'd positioned the adjuster part in front of the lug, and the locking nut behind, so all the force was on the locking nut only. Eventually it gave up and slipped back on the cable, leaving me with zero handbrake. (note the oil splatter is me neglecting to clean up properly after regreasing the prop UJ)
So I fitted the new cable last night. Not technically difficult at all, just a bit fiddly.
Need to raise the back of the car and take the rear wheels off, but also (on the Chim) remove the centre console to reveal a panel that covers the handbrake and gear stick fixings. Then follow my scratty sketch...
1. First step is to loosen the adjuster via the offside wheel arch - it's threaded, so just turn it to move it towards the back of the car. In my case, all this was already loose of course.
2. Then you can go to the nearside wheel arch, reach right in and pull the bracket out the lug just behind the fuel filter. Just pull towards you.
3. Then you can unbolt the handbrake lever to lift it up and get to the 4. split pin holding the cable bracket to the lever mechanism, be careful not to drop any of the bolts and washers around that whole bit - if you do they land in the tray beneath the exhaust box, right below the prop and other moving parts - imperative to retrieve anything from there!
5. After that you unhook the end of the cable from the rear of the brake callipers, and then pull the cable end down through the hole on the calliper - it all comes out.
6. Then up through a lug hole on the inner chassis.
Then remove the half moon shaped bracket that fitted to the handbrake lever, and you can pull it all out through one side if you do it this way. Alternatively you're pulling it all through the handbrake hole and into the car, which means dirty oily stuff inside the car.
Installation of a clean new cable I did from the inside by feeding the ends down through the handbrake hole, then fitting the half moon bracket to the handbrake lever (I could reuse my split pin, but others may need a new one), then fed the ends through the right route - be careful to pass through the right bits of space in the chassis spine, and go either side of the diff speed sensor, also make sure you're not tangled on its wire.
Push back into the lugs, grommets in place, hook up the ends on the callipers, bolt the handbrake back on, then start tightening the adjuster until you're happy with 3 or 4 clicks pulling tight on the lever.
It's all quite obvious when you're look at it, just mostly awkward routing the cable around the diff and fuel filter.
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