Cant stand it no longer there coming out

[CHIMV8 500]

When i started to rebuild my baby,for some unknown reason i left the pre-cats in,but did install Clives Y piece.

Ive changed to all variants on my last Chim,which are now all on Youtube,and told everyone best combo is,PRE CATS OUT,CLIVE OR ACT Y PIECE,AND STANDARD BACK BOX.


This was after i sleeved the standard system and left main and precats in..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=01x4Cs_PHlY&fea...

This is Phil leaving with my sleeved exhaust fitted to his Chim (main and precats still in)

http://s742.photobucket.com/albums/xx63/golflion/?...

This was after i removed the main and precats and fitted Clives beautiful Y piece

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5hM36fIddQg&lis...

Well,pre cats out,original Y piece decatted,and rear silencer still in tact.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PzPnO9EQnJg


So i am where i am,my question is,i know the job is a pain in the arse from past experience,has anyone come up with a less stressful of removing cats with manifolds still connected to the engine,i am fearing not

[jojackson4]

Your going down the pillow case method

[V8Bart]

There is a simple formula.

TVR + MORE noise = Win :-P

[ProjectChimaera]

CHIMV8 500 said:

When i started to rebuild my baby,for some unknown reason i left the pre-cats in,but did install Clives Y piece.

Ive changed to all variants on my last Chim,which are now all on Youtube,and told everyone best combo is,PRE CATS OUT,CLIVE OR ACT Y PIECE,AND STANDARD BACK BOX.


This was after i sleeved the standard system and left main and precats in..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=01x4Cs_PHlY&fea...

This is Phil leaving with my sleeved exhaust fitted to his Chim (main and precats still in)

http://s742.photobucket.com/albums/xx63/golflion/?...

This was after i removed the main and precats and fitted Clives beautiful Y piece

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5hM36fIddQg&lis...

Well,pre cats out,original Y piece decatted,and rear silencer still in tact.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PzPnO9EQnJg


So i am where i am,my question is,i know the job is a pain in the arse from past experience,has anyone come up with a less stressful of removing cats with manifolds still connected to the engine,i am fearing not

It's PITA with the manifolds removed, wouldn't want to do it again with them in situ, probably not wanted to hear though!

[s p a c e m a n]

I wouldn't do it with them attached because I would be too worried about debris getting where I didn't want it and damaging paintwork. I would also expect that after whacking the inside of a manifold with a crowbar that there may be the possibility that it would need that join between the 4 pipes tacking up a bit. If you've not already done it slot the bottom holes on the manifolds and put studs in the block, I fitted both sides in about an hour and half a couple of weeks ago with a coffe break

[QBee]

Some would suggest:

manifolds off, cut open between the pre-cat and 4>1 union, so much easier getting the cat out in a straight line, and you can check/weld the 4>1 unions at the same time. Make very sure your welder welds them back together with the two halves perfectly aligned.....so mark them first.

[ClassiChimi]

As Above but other than the filth and you should wear a mask it's not such a difficult job with manifolds removed, I found one side a bit stubborn while the other came out very easily. I used a 10mm long hammer drill bit to help break them up and a long screwdriver/ small chisels to manipulate and loosen the cats until they fall out in small pieces, takes a few hours but well worth it IMHO

[CHIMV8 500]

Ok boys all set


We are going in wish me luck

[ClassiChimi]

Just be careful you don't drill/tap straight through the comb and start attacking the inner side of the manifold, you'll soon notice outward dents appearing on the undersides if you do!

Goodluck, I think my car is faster with the pre cats removed but it might be my imagination.

What a lovely engine bay that is. Spanking chassis.

[CHIMV8 500]

Thanks Alan appreciated

Lams are being taken out for safety,once the drill gets in there owt could happen

Mask and marigolds ready,tomorrow morning we're going in pics to follow

My old wheels still look good on yours now lol

Edited by CHIMV8 500 on Friday 2nd December 22:22

[jojackson4]

It's all new Alan
Should have done it while it was in bits

[CHIMV8 500]

Shut up yorkie lol

[ClassiChimi]

Put some blankets over those clean lovely gubbely engine bits, that's a polished water pump if ever I've seen one
Haha, yes mate I walk past and admire my wheels daily, I can't seem to wear out those T1R's though, I'll be putting some Rainsports on when I can, slightly bigger side wall, front and rear is my plan.

Yes remove lambda's, one of my cats was loose and came out in big pieces so likely to clash with them.

I replaced my water pump earlier this year,, I'm gutted I didn't polish it up now I've seen yours

Expect to take a good few hours at this, then if they pop out easily it's a bonus but do expect to be cussing and kissing it for a few hours if they break up into small pieces and hang on to the sides of the manifold.

You'll feel rewarded when it's all done and your hands are black and you've got more soot over you than Fred Dibner, you'll feel old school bloke. and it cost naff all, I like that bit a lot.

ETA if I remember correctly I had an old gardening glove that could take spikes of metal and used that to feel around the inside to check they were all clear afterwards.

I oddly look back at doing this with real pleasure, one of those jobs that just require a few tools and some deliberation, bit of hand built fettling and bobs your uncle.
I still say my cars u der npbonnet temps are lower most of the time with the pre cats removed, since going Mbe it's maybe slightly better again.

When I removed my pipes and removed pre cats then polished the living daylights out of them,
I took the chance of spraying oil over the lot when they looked silver.before I started it up.
What's interesting here is how they changed colour and how the colour of the manifolds from the 4 into one point onwards right the way down through my catted Y went exactly the same colour at the same time, I considered this to mean even flow and no real hot spots, . The bend where the pre cats sit went more purple but soon sort of evened up with the Y piece, the bend proving it's a point of friction even without the cats in

Edited by ClassiChimi on Friday 2nd December 23:10

[ClassiChimi]

jojackson4 said:

It's all new Alan
Should have done it while it was in bits

It's awesome Pete.
There's nothing more depressing than seeing a shiny body and a rotton engine bay, horrifying to my mind.

I've spent a bit of time in a garage that's had a number of really really shiny Chims in, rotton as apples underneath, I was shocked! After owning my car for 5 years that's fking saying something

[CHIMV8 500]

Fred Dibnah I loved that Chimney bloke

[caduceus]

So you're drilling out the pre cats whilst still bolted to the engine? Are you not worried about debris/dust making it's way back in to the valves and combustion chambers?

[CHIMV8 500]

Loads have done it this way

TBH one cycle of the engine turning over will throw any debris out anyway

Edited by CHIMV8 500 on Friday 2nd December 23:51

[jojackson4]

CHIMV8 500 said:

Shut up yorkie lol

[OleVix]

caduceus said:

So you're drilling out the pre cats whilst still bolted to the engine? Are you not worried about debris/dust making it's way back in to the valves and combustion chambers?

I did it this way with my chim, was no problem.

When I did it on my griff it turned out that both precats had become loose and was stuck in the Y piece blocking 80% of exhaust, no wonder the car felt a bit dead!

[caduceus]

OleVix said:

I did it this way with my chim, was no problem.

When I did it on my griff it turned out that both precats had become loose and was stuck in the Y piece blocking 80% of exhaust, no wonder the car felt a bit dead!

Furry muff