S3c wiring loom
Discussion
Having enjoyed the running Hare from my last post, here is the next!
I see many folk have gone the full body lift chassis refurb and respray of the bodywork involving the inevitable replacement of coilovers and upgraded brakes, etc., but I haven't seen a report of replacing the wiring loom!
Given that TVR wiring is 'notorious' what is the solution? Repair or replace??
I see many folk have gone the full body lift chassis refurb and respray of the bodywork involving the inevitable replacement of coilovers and upgraded brakes, etc., but I haven't seen a report of replacing the wiring loom!
Given that TVR wiring is 'notorious' what is the solution? Repair or replace??
Edited by yknot on Sunday 22 January 18:42
Chassis and body refurbs will immediately be obvious and will greatly enhance the cars value.
the wiring does leave much to be desired but apart from a couple of components (Yellow connector and fuel pump relay come to mind) the rest will be reasonably reliable - even a slightly dim headlight is not a great problem to the point of HAVING to rewire, and can be tackles as a single defect. The cost of a rewire could be quite high and probably dead money as it won't add value (but would be desirable)
I had major issues with the fuse/relay box on my S1 culminating with it partially melting while at Le Mans. I am confident (not necessarily competent) that I can (and in the process of) fitting a modern fuse/relay box. I intended to also remove the dash and carry out a front end rewire but I'll leave that 'til later in the year as it will take too long and I want to drive it through the summer.
The wiring is a nightmare to sort but then again in most cases does not NEED doing.
the wiring does leave much to be desired but apart from a couple of components (Yellow connector and fuel pump relay come to mind) the rest will be reasonably reliable - even a slightly dim headlight is not a great problem to the point of HAVING to rewire, and can be tackles as a single defect. The cost of a rewire could be quite high and probably dead money as it won't add value (but would be desirable)
I had major issues with the fuse/relay box on my S1 culminating with it partially melting while at Le Mans. I am confident (not necessarily competent) that I can (and in the process of) fitting a modern fuse/relay box. I intended to also remove the dash and carry out a front end rewire but I'll leave that 'til later in the year as it will take too long and I want to drive it through the summer.
The wiring is a nightmare to sort but then again in most cases does not NEED doing.
I'm having the engine loom replaced on my V8s whilst it's undergoing its rebuild.
The main reason was due to the wiring becoming brittle with the heat.
Str8six have a contractor that will make the loom should you require one, that said, I'm sure any auto electrician could make and install a loom.
It may even be something to undertake yourself, personally I've not got the skill set to undertake such a task.
D
The main reason was due to the wiring becoming brittle with the heat.
Str8six have a contractor that will make the loom should you require one, that said, I'm sure any auto electrician could make and install a loom.
It may even be something to undertake yourself, personally I've not got the skill set to undertake such a task.
D
I can't see the point ! Copper will last probably 100 years even if you leave it outside in the rain. Judging by some copper nails I have seen which they used to use for roofing. The only issue with the wiring looms on old cars seams to be if the copper goes black. I think this is due to some sort of electrolysis maybe caused buy the salt they put on the roads! I found that you can clean this off by dipping the wire in plumbing flux (make sure you wash it all off afterwards with water and you need the active not passive stuff unless you are going to heat it up and solder it). The wire should then be good as new.
Correct me if I am wrong but I think the v6s wiring loom is straight out of a Sierra and the V8 out of a Rover. Hence there is far too much wide and it's a bit messy but usually bar the aforementioned connectors it works !
But it's your choice so you decide .... keep us posted :-)
Correct me if I am wrong but I think the v6s wiring loom is straight out of a Sierra and the V8 out of a Rover. Hence there is far too much wide and it's a bit messy but usually bar the aforementioned connectors it works !
But it's your choice so you decide .... keep us posted :-)
yknot said:
Having enjoyed the running Hare from my last post, here is the next!
I see many folk have gone the full body lift chassis refurb and respray of the bodywork involving the inevitable replacement of coilovers and upgraded brakes, etc., but I haven't seen a report of replacing the wiring loom!
Given that TVR wiring is 'notorious' what is the solution? Repair or replace??
You first need to check if there is any brittle cable insulation anywhere in the loom especially around the engine bay areaI see many folk have gone the full body lift chassis refurb and respray of the bodywork involving the inevitable replacement of coilovers and upgraded brakes, etc., but I haven't seen a report of replacing the wiring loom!
Given that TVR wiring is 'notorious' what is the solution? Repair or replace??
Edited by yknot on Sunday 22 January 18:42
If your loom does need attention I am able to post you a step by step fix
Penelope Stopit said:
You first need to check if there is any brittle cable insulation anywhere in the loom especially around the engine bay area
If your loom does need attention I am able to post you a step by step fix
I'm looking at the wiring at the mo (see previous post) and like to have as much info as possible - could you please send me your step by step - I'll try and message my email addressIf your loom does need attention I am able to post you a step by step fix
Thank you chaps, again, for your feedback.
My wiring appears ok for a 25 year old car although I imagine the engine bay loom has suffered a lot of heating/cooling to the pvc covering. I imagine the engine loom is Ford based but what has been modified, is the question? And all the various (undersized?) earth cables attached to dodgy crimped connections and bolted to corroded chassis members does not make for a reliable electrical system, does it not???
When looking behind the dash at the 'spaghetti' there is clearly a lot of additional earthing wires together with the standard and aftermarket alarm/immobilizer system. I remember when Carl (the guru) Baker changed my Chim alarm I was astonished how much redundant wiring and equipment he removed during his 8 hour surgery!!!
So, once all the cr*p has been removed, rewiring should be straightforward, yes?
My wiring appears ok for a 25 year old car although I imagine the engine bay loom has suffered a lot of heating/cooling to the pvc covering. I imagine the engine loom is Ford based but what has been modified, is the question? And all the various (undersized?) earth cables attached to dodgy crimped connections and bolted to corroded chassis members does not make for a reliable electrical system, does it not???
When looking behind the dash at the 'spaghetti' there is clearly a lot of additional earthing wires together with the standard and aftermarket alarm/immobilizer system. I remember when Carl (the guru) Baker changed my Chim alarm I was astonished how much redundant wiring and equipment he removed during his 8 hour surgery!!!
So, once all the cr*p has been removed, rewiring should be straightforward, yes?
Part of my rebuild, http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a... is a rewire, new fuse box with relays for everything to take the load off the column and ignition switches. I'm keeping the dash wiring because its all good and for ref has a ford label on it, I have a new engine/ecu loom which came with the Emerald ECU and all the rest of the loom I'm building using thinwall multicore cable.
I will post pics on my thread as I work through it.
I will post pics on my thread as I work through it.
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