New Canyon Endurace - love it but....

New Canyon Endurace - love it but....

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Dizeee

Original Poster:

18,291 posts

206 months

Tuesday 14th March 2017
quotequote all
Feels a little heavier than I expected?

I posted on bikeradar so thought I would share here:

I had my Endurace CF 8.0 105 Disc delivered last week and have now ridden it pretty much every day since Wednesday last week. I have done a mixture of stuff, commuting, faster rides, climbs and flats. I love the bike, and this was purchased to replace my "all year round / do it all" bike, an aluminium Bianchi Impulso 105. I decided to prioritise comfort and value over lightness and aerodynamics. I still have my Carbon Aero summer bike, which I can't see being bettered unless I spend 5k plus nor am I looking to change that either.

So, the bike is great, but it feels different and I am interested in others experience of changing bikes or of this model. I have done 18000 miles on the Impulso over 4 years and so it has become a very dialled in default bike for me. I find it boring, now, but it has always worked. As a matter of fact it is currently in the classifieds. But, this Canyon, which is advertised as 8.5kg, def feels heavier, both to pick up and to ride. I would go as far as to say that it feels like a bit of a porker. That will actually serve me well, because it IS supposed to be a training bike that will get all sorts thrown at it. But immediately I notice two things, 1) Climbing on it is not the carbon experience of my summer bike which is a De Rosa Merak, and 2) maintaining speed above 20mph takes work, more so I think than the Bianchi.

I always billed the Bianchi as a tank, I just assumed it was a heavy ally bike, but, I am actually moving marginally slower on the Carbon Canyon both in terms of average speed and segment times. The Canyon def feels like it needs more work to keep going. I am really feeling it in my legs and even on short climbs I seem to lack the "margin" of spare power, or the reserve ability I am used to, to throw it up. Maybe it is just me getting used to it, or getting the position right, but it's an odd one.

The Canyon I sized as small, as my Bianchi is a 55cm top tube and I am only 5 foot 9 ish, so it has always probably been a bit too big. I have had a fit and have numbers, and I have checked them agains the Canyon, they more or less stack up, but even the though the frame is smaller the reach is further and it is noticeable. I can still make adjustments, but it has been the main thing I notice in terms of position.

How long does it take to get used to a bike, when going from a bike you have ridden daily over the last 4 years to a new model that you also throw yourself right into and ride plenty? Anyone else have a Endurace and how do you find it?

NatAsp

175 posts

128 months

Wednesday 15th March 2017
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You comments re the reach being further and loss of power suggest to me that you might have the seat too far back. How does the saddle fore/aft position compare with your Bianchi? Do your hamstrings hurt more than normal after a big effort?

Your Dad

1,933 posts

183 months

Wednesday 15th March 2017
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Are you weighing the bike using accurate scales, or just doing the moron test and picking it up and thinking 'That feels heavy'?. Canyon will have taken a measurement sans pedals and used scales.

It feels different because you've not set it up correctly, and because it's you and nothing is ever right.

I've had numerous bikes, haven't weighed one, ever.

ALawson

7,815 posts

251 months

Wednesday 15th March 2017
quotequote all
Dizeee said:
Feels a little heavier than I expected?

The Canyon I sized as small, as my Bianchi is a 55cm top tube and I am only 5 foot 9 ish, so it has always probably been a bit too big. I have had a fit and have numbers, and I have checked them agains the Canyon, they more or less stack up, but even the though the frame is smaller the reach is further and it is noticeable. I can still make adjustments, but it has been the main thing I notice in terms of position.
Would you not simply take the key dimensions from your "fit" / old bike that you know result in your being comfortable, and set the new bike up to match. If that means a shorter stem then so be it. Change the stem so they are both the same and then see how it feels to ride.

Unless using power I would guess its hard to accurately compare effort levels on new vs old due to the potential "new bike" effect.

When I changed bikes last the new one was something like 6.8kg with pedals which was about 3.5kg lighter than the old one. Its fair to say the old stripped frame isn't going get built up any time soon. I may actually fully strip it down and then start ebaying for next winter.

Chicken Chaser

7,781 posts

224 months

Wednesday 15th March 2017
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My Croix de Fer is much heavier than my Supersix, but its an extremely comfortable bike to ride. There is some penalty to pay when going uphill, gravity unfortunately gets the better of you.

Set the fore/aft position, work out your usual reach to the bars and get a stem to match it.

okgo

38,001 posts

198 months

Wednesday 15th March 2017
quotequote all
lol.

Its been a while and you didn't disappoint, dizeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee.

Set the bikes up like for like, nobody on this planet can tell the difference between 1kg while riding on the flat. Impossible. Mainly because there is no difference. Once a bike is moving, the weight (within reasonable span) makes almost no difference on the flat, assuming it is set up in the same way as another, and has a similar level of tyre etc.

TwistingMyMelon

6,385 posts

205 months

Wednesday 15th March 2017
quotequote all
Seriously you need stats, not hot air

Firstly weigh the bikes , don't just amble on about weight

Secondly how do the stats riding compare? All this bks about ample spare power, how do stats compare?

I rode today on my alu road bike, felt a touch quicker than my steel gravel bike, when I look at Strava I was miles quicker , but only "felt" slightly quicker

Thirdly get someone else to triple check the bike measures up to your old Bianchi

Forth just ride, don't over analyse everything, as long as it doesn't hurt and you are comfortable stop worrying


louiebaby

10,651 posts

191 months

Wednesday 15th March 2017
quotequote all
A couple of things to try:

Put your fitted bike side by side, and get the bottom brackets lined up. If they're not the same height, put something underneath both wheels when adjusting the lower one.

If your pedal spindles are lined up too, then the crank arms are the same length, which will rule another thing out.

Next, adjust your saddle using your best guess of where you actually park your arse, if it's not the same saddle. Finally, get your handlebars as close as possible to matching, perhaps with the use of a different stem, and moving the spacers.

Turn it upside down, and spin the wheels, you may find they're a bit tight, being new, or that the rest of the drive train hasn't bedded in properly.

Finally, look to the tyres, I would expect the new bike to be on Conti GP4000? How do these compare to what your old bike is on? Are the pressures appropriate?

Also, speed isn't everything. (It's the only thing.) wink

Your Dad

1,933 posts

183 months

Wednesday 15th March 2017
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Canyon might need the seat pushing forwards a bit, to match the Bianchi.


AyBee

10,533 posts

202 months

Wednesday 15th March 2017
quotequote all
okgo said:
lol.

Its been a while and you didn't disappoint, dizeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee.

Set the bikes up like for like, nobody on this planet can tell the difference between 1kg while riding on the flat. Impossible. Mainly because there is no difference. Once a bike is moving, the weight (within reasonable span) makes almost no difference on the flat, assuming it is set up in the same way as another, and has a similar level of tyre etc.
laugh Like others have said, sort your fit out, the bike is fine and you've got Conti GP4000SIIs on it (I think) so they're not going to be holding you back. Why are you comparing it to your summer bike?

Matt_N

8,900 posts

202 months

Wednesday 15th March 2017
quotequote all
AyBee said:
laugh Like others have said, sort your fit out, the bike is fine and you've got Conti GP4000SIIs on it (I think) so they're not going to be holding you back. Why are you comparing it to your summer bike?
Because his Ribble Merak is the best thing evar.

Dixie

733 posts

235 months

Wednesday 15th March 2017
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Take a picture of them both in the same spot and post them on here.

Are the brake pads fully clear of the rotors?

ALawson

7,815 posts

251 months

Wednesday 15th March 2017
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Are the tyres similar width, pressure etc.

mcelliott

8,656 posts

181 months

Wednesday 15th March 2017
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Oil your fkin chain.

Timothy Claypole

2,112 posts

133 months

Wednesday 15th March 2017
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Matt_N said:
AyBee said:
laugh Like others have said, sort your fit out, the bike is fine and you've got Conti GP4000SIIs on it (I think) so they're not going to be holding you back. Why are you comparing it to your summer bike?
Because his Ribble Merak is the best thing evar.

Dizeee

Original Poster:

18,291 posts

206 months

Wednesday 15th March 2017
quotequote all
This post is not a complaint, but an observation, and the reason I bring it up is because I am surprised by it that's all.

The rotors were one of the first things I checked, and although I had some "post assembly pad catching" from the front wheel, this disappeared soon afterwards, as far as I can tell it is fine now. I have not weighed the bike with scales, however, I have been lugging it up and down loads of platform steps as well as moving it about at home to clean it e.t.c. and I definitely notice the weight more. It also feels quite back heavy around the cassette end.

What I meant by the climbing aspect, was that it feels like I am pushing noticeabbly harder to go uphill - to give just one example I rode up Red Road in Lightwater yesterday, and the last part of the climb I was travelling at around 14mph which is normally do able with a bit in reserve, so say I am at about 85%. Yesterday I felt firmly at 100% with no reserve, legs burning, and I was 20 seconds slower than my best time over the 0.5 mile segment. So I'm not just plucking nonsense out the air, I am actually using some logic here although I grant it's not scientific. In terms of overall stats though it seems on a par with the Bianchi, but ever so slightly slower. Yesterday was the first time I averaged over 19mph, before I got the bike I was happily putting in some 19.5 averages on the Bianchi.

I have literally just gone out and double checked the measurements, and I have made adjustments. I have raised the seat again and pulled the saddle forward, which should match the reach with the Bianchi, as well as the saddle height as the saddle was low and the reach was further out on the Canyon. I have to confess I do have a slightly sore lower back today, although I don't know whether that's unrelated as I have ongoing back issues anyway.

Pictures as requested, and I am heading out this afternoon so will report back.






Matt_N

8,900 posts

202 months

Wednesday 15th March 2017
quotequote all
If that is genuinely where you saddle has been recommended to be set, via knee over pedal then you need an inline seat post for a starter. You shouldn't be running them that far forward on the rails.

Also, your saddle height appears to be different - higher on the Canyon, are the cranks the same length? I measured the top of saddle to centre of BB on the computer screen and there is a difference, are you sure it's the same?

It's hard to tell but saddle to bar drop looks bigger on the Canyon too.

Edited by Matt_N on Wednesday 15th March 12:25

ALawson

7,815 posts

251 months

Wednesday 15th March 2017
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Are the chain set/cassette ratios the same?

outnumbered

4,084 posts

234 months

Wednesday 15th March 2017
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You would have been much better off with an Orro, I think.

JEA1K

2,504 posts

223 months

Wednesday 15th March 2017
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The Canyon has a seat post set back of maybe 20mm I'm guessing and you've pushed the seat forward on the rails which seems pointless as well as looking gash. Try a zero offset seat post and if you're not close enough to the bars, then a shorter stem.