Login | Register
SearchMy Stuff
My ProfileMy PreferencesMy Mates RSS Feed
1
3 4 ... 160 161
Reply to Topic
Author Discussion

opieoilman

Original Poster:

3,044 posts

116 months

[news] 
Wednesday 25th January 2006 quote quote all
marctwo said:
Make: Audi
Model: S3
Year: 2002
Milage: 23000
Engine type: 1.8l 4cyl 20v Turbo
Modifications: AmD Remap
Driving style: Mostly motorway with occational country lane blast.

I was using Mobil 1 0W40 until I got the remap done and AmD did an oil change and put in Quantum Synta GOLD 5W40 as they said they thought the Mobil stuff was too thin. What do you think?

Thanks for the advice.


>> Edited by marctwo on Wednesday 25th January 09:33


Hi,

The 0w-40 will not be too thin, when hot both a 0w-40 and 5w-40 are the same viscosity, when cold the 0w is slightly thinner at very low temps then a 5w however these are still many times thicker to when the oil is hot, so it cant be too thin.

According to my book you will need VW503.00 spec oil or a VW503.01 spec.

CHeers

Guy.

marctwo

3,081 posts

140 months

[news] 
Wednesday 25th January 2006 quote quote all
opieoilman said:

Hi,

The 0w-40 will not be too thin, when hot both a 0w-40 and 5w-40 are the same viscosity, when cold the 0w is slightly thinner at very low temps then a 5w however these are still many times thicker to when the oil is hot, so it cant be too thin.

According to my book you will need VW503.00 spec oil or a VW503.01 spec.

CHeers

Guy.


So there would be no problem topping it up with Mobil 1 then? I assume mixing VW503.01 spec oils is not an issue?

Thanks again!

opieoilman

Original Poster:

3,044 posts

116 months

[news] 
Wednesday 25th January 2006 quote quote all
Yep it will be fine mate.

Cheers

Guy.

mojocvh

14,132 posts

142 months

[news] 
Thursday 26th January 2006 quote quote all
Make: ford cvh
Model: 1.6
Year: ? Semi hemi head.
Engine type: Vulcan bottom end, hyd lifters retained on top
Modifications: Twin 40's, kent high lift cam (7K rev limit), heavily worked/skimmed head
Driving style: easy warm up 'till 'stats opened, normal road speeds until right opportunity arises.
Any other information that may be relevant: N/A

Is there a slight conflict tween bored block and hyd tappets re original oil spec??

MoJo.

ican

49 posts

115 months

[news] 
Thursday 26th January 2006 quote quote all
Make: BMW
Model: 325i
Year: 1994
Engine type: 2.5
Modifications: Std
Driving style: Bought for the Scumball rally to the Nurburgring so track car.
Mileage: 150,000
Transmission: Auto
It has a full BMW service history

What would you recommend for the engine and transmission?
Would there be any problem with fully synthetic for either given the mileage?


Advertisement

opieoilman

Original Poster:

3,044 posts

116 months

[news] 
Thursday 26th January 2006 quote quote all
mojocvh said:
Make: ford cvh
Model: 1.6
Year: ? Semi hemi head.
Engine type: Vulcan bottom end, hyd lifters retained on top
Modifications: Twin 40's, kent high lift cam (7K rev limit), heavily worked/skimmed head
Driving style: easy warm up 'till 'stats opened, normal road speeds until right opportunity arises.
Any other information that may be relevant: N/A

Is there a slight conflict tween bored block and hyd tappets re original oil spec??

MoJo.


Mojo,

I would suggest as a top option a 5w-40/10w-40 full synthetic for all year round use. The temptation when some engines have been modified is to use thicker oil, this is not always the case as you have a high rev limit, high revving engines do not like thick oil, and keeping around the SAE40 grade will help keep fuel dilution to a minimum.

Hope this helps.

Cheers

Guy.

opieoilman

Original Poster:

3,044 posts

116 months

[news] 
Thursday 26th January 2006 quote quote all
ican said:
Make: BMW
Model: 325i
Year: 1994
Engine type: 2.5
Modifications: Std
Driving style: Bought for the Scumball rally to the Nurburgring so track car.
Mileage: 150,000
Transmission: Auto
It has a full BMW service history

What would you recommend for the engine and transmission?
Would there be any problem with fully synthetic for either given the mileage?




Hi,

You have a choice, you can either go for a 10w-40 semi synthetic and change it very 5k or so, however if the car is going to get some hard use and Nurburg treatment then a full synthetic 10w-50 may be a good idea, it depends if you going to be keeping the car after the event.

For the gearbox, yes you can use a full synthetic ATF, not many out there mind but we have the Amsoil ATF, the advantages of this are more shear/temp stable oil, basically peform better under hard use.

Cheers

Guy.

geoff82

433 posts

102 months

[news] 
Saturday 28th January 2006 quote quote all
2001 Classic Subaru Impreza wrx turbo

2.0 litre turbo boxer engine

84,000 miles
Oil changes every 2,500 miles
FSSH
mainly motorway miles with the odd b road thrash

Completely standard car. (Not even any go faster stickers!)

Thanks.

>> Edited by geoff82 on Saturday 28th January 12:30

opieoilman

Original Poster:

3,044 posts

116 months

[news] 
Saturday 28th January 2006 quote quote all
We recommend 5w-40 synthetic for this car.

The most popular quality ones are Silkolene Pro S 5w-40 and Motul 300V 5w-40.

Details of these and other quality 5w-40's can be found here:

www.opieoils.co.uk

Cheers
Simon

mojocvh

14,132 posts

142 months

[news] 
Saturday 28th January 2006 quote quote all


Sorry but can you explain this bit plse

SAE40 grade will help keep fuel dilution to a minimum.


cheers again

MoJo.

opieoilman

Original Poster:

3,044 posts

116 months

[news] 
Saturday 28th January 2006 quote quote all
mojocvh said:


Sorry but can you explain this bit plse

SAE40 grade will help keep fuel dilution to a minimum.


cheers again

MoJo.


Ok,

Fuel dilution will kill any oil, its often caused by running rich, bad injectors, carbs and throttle bodies, that sort of thing.

A top quality SAE40 (5w-40) will suffer from the effect of fuel dilution less then say a SAE60 (10w-60).

Hope this helps .

Cheers

Guy.

the_bovine

65 posts

122 months

[news] 
Sunday 29th January 2006 quote quote all
Make: Saab

Model: 9000 Carlsson Turbo

Year: 1991

Engine type: 2.3 Turbo (~250 BHP)

Modifications: Chipped ECU, Perf Air Filter, De-cat, 3" Exhaust.

Driving style: Track day car - Hard!

Any other information that may be relevant: Using Saab 0w-30 fully synthetic at the moment.

What recommendation are you looking for? Engine

Thanks :-).

opieoilman

Original Poster:

3,044 posts

116 months

[news] 
Sunday 29th January 2006 quote quote all
Hi,

Saab recomend a SAE30 grade, either 0w/5w or 10w.

However these are really for economy figures and not hard use, I would go for really good 5w-40 full synthetic to give you greater hot end protection under hard use, it will also be able to take higher temps without shearing down.

Have a look at the Motul 300v or the SIlkolene Pro S.

Cheers

Guy.

bluespanner

3,383 posts

103 months

[news] 
Sunday 29th January 2006 quote quote all
Make: Volvo
Model: 850
Year: 1993
Engine type: 2.5 n/a petrol auto
Modifications: none
Driving style: fast motorway.
Any other information: The engine when cold is very tappety. It is also hard to start sometimes (poss low compression?)Our garage tried Mobil 1 which improved it slightly. The gearbox is quite clunky, and harsh. But maybe this is all normal, for a 180k car?
What recommendation are you looking for? Engine,Gearbox

Thanks for any advice, Roland

opieoilman

Original Poster:

3,044 posts

116 months

[news] 
Sunday 29th January 2006 quote quote all
Hi,

Using a synthetic may well help to reduce tappet noise, espeically if it is ester based, being more fluid at low temps is probably why it helps the cold start a little, I would look at a 5w-40.

For the gearbox, it seems to be a withheld volvo spec but I believe it is an 80w-90, but I will double check on that, probably just a replacing the oil will make a huge improvement.

Cheers

Guy.

ripton

429 posts

112 months

[news] 
Sunday 29th January 2006 quote quote all
Make: Porsche
Model: 944 Turbo
Year: 1987 (125,000 miles)
Engine type: 220hp straight 4 with KKK K26 turbo
Modifications: Standard
Driving style: Weekdays Clark Kent to the station. Weekends Superman fast A & B roads.

Cheers

chris

>> Edited by ripton on Monday 30th January 20:13

opieoilman

Original Poster:

3,044 posts

116 months

[news] 
Monday 30th January 2006 quote quote all
Hi,

For your Porsche we would suggest a good quality synthetic, around the 10w-50 grade would be ideal, this will cover everything from good cold start to plenty of hard use.

Brand wise, have a look at the Silkolene Pro S 10w-50.

Cheers

Guy.

mojocvh

14,132 posts

142 months

[news] 
Monday 30th January 2006 quote quote all
opieoilman said:
Hi,

Using a synthetic may well help to reduce tappet noise, espeically if it is ester based, being more fluid at low temps is probably why it helps the cold start a little, I would look at a 5w-40.

For the gearbox, it seems to be a withheld volvo spec but I believe it is an 80w-90, but I will double check on that, probably just a replacing the oil will make a huge improvement.

Cheers

Guy.


After some consecutive -5/-8 nights my V70 sounded awful until the (freshly replaced semi synth factory spec) oil warmed uo and moved round a bit. Talked to the service manager and Volvo are just about to move to a very hi-spec fully synth 0w-40 oil (same as VW longlife?????) I'm just wondering about oil usage in "older" engines with the ow spec.......

thatx for a (renewed) great thread.

MoJo.

opieoilman

Original Poster:

3,044 posts

116 months

[news] 
Monday 30th January 2006 quote quote all
Mojo,

Some older engines dont like the 0w, and generally these have been poorly maintained.

For a well maintained older engine a 0w-40/5w-40 should be fine, consumption should not increase either.

Cheers

Guy.

bluespanner

3,383 posts

103 months

[news] 
Monday 30th January 2006 quote quote all
Thanks, ill try that.
Roland
1
3 4 ... 160 161
Reply to Topic