Setting up coilovers properly ?
Discussion
I've just been spending some time cleaning up my coilovers and making sure they are ok (bit ragged but will do for now).
I do have a friend who could possibly help but I don't wanna keep hassling them especially as this isn't a quick job.
I'm just wondering who in Surrey (ideally) I could go to, to have them set up correctly ?
I do have a friend who could possibly help but I don't wanna keep hassling them especially as this isn't a quick job.
I'm just wondering who in Surrey (ideally) I could go to, to have them set up correctly ?
It isn't that difficult to set them up yourself - IF and only IF; you have level floor to do it on.
To adjust the ride heights, when you adjust one corner, you will upset all the others, so be prepared to work around the car a few times to get it right. If you adjust one corner, the greatest effect will be the one diagonally opposite. So work round the car in a figure of eight and be prepared for a few circuits!
You will need the proper adjusters, get the correct 'C' spanners, it will save a lot of skinned knuckles.
It will be worth loading the driver's seat to simulate your weight if the car is a lightweight.
To adjust the ride heights, when you adjust one corner, you will upset all the others, so be prepared to work around the car a few times to get it right. If you adjust one corner, the greatest effect will be the one diagonally opposite. So work round the car in a figure of eight and be prepared for a few circuits!
You will need the proper adjusters, get the correct 'C' spanners, it will save a lot of skinned knuckles.
It will be worth loading the driver's seat to simulate your weight if the car is a lightweight.
Hi guys !
Cheers for the heads up on 'wheels in motion'.
I watched a few video's on youtube last night which have given me a better understanding of how to get it initially set up, and I'd need to get the alignment done again anyway.
I've got enough weights in the garage to simulate driver weight, so I'll give it a shot myself to start with, then either take it to my friend or someone like wheels in motion.
Cheers !
Cheers for the heads up on 'wheels in motion'.
I watched a few video's on youtube last night which have given me a better understanding of how to get it initially set up, and I'd need to get the alignment done again anyway.
I've got enough weights in the garage to simulate driver weight, so I'll give it a shot myself to start with, then either take it to my friend or someone like wheels in motion.
Cheers !
jon- said:
RobPhoboS said:
Just gave them a call to get a rough price (around £170ish), which includes the set up and alignment.
And a free adjustment once you've driven on the settings for a few weeks?I'm just pondering whether to fit them to the car today, or just keep the standard ones on for now and swap when I hit the track later on.
Paul Drawmer said:
It isn't that difficult to set them up yourself - IF and only IF; you have level floor to do it on.
To adjust the ride heights, when you adjust one corner, you will upset all the others, so be prepared to work around the car a few times to get it right. If you adjust one corner, the greatest effect will be the one diagonally opposite. So work round the car in a figure of eight and be prepared for a few circuits!
You will need the proper adjusters, get the correct 'C' spanners, it will save a lot of skinned knuckles.
It will be worth loading the driver's seat to simulate your weight if the car is a lightweight.
Pretty accurate, however you don't mention corner scales. That is the only way to set the car correctly. Glad you mentioned including the sack of spuds in the drivers seat as too many people forget this.To adjust the ride heights, when you adjust one corner, you will upset all the others, so be prepared to work around the car a few times to get it right. If you adjust one corner, the greatest effect will be the one diagonally opposite. So work round the car in a figure of eight and be prepared for a few circuits!
You will need the proper adjusters, get the correct 'C' spanners, it will save a lot of skinned knuckles.
It will be worth loading the driver's seat to simulate your weight if the car is a lightweight.
RobPhoboS said:
Just gave them a call to get a rough price (around £170ish), which includes the set up and alignment.
That's not a bad price if that price is for a full corner weight set up, and 4 wheel alignment adjustment - Changing ride heights will change the suspension geometry, necessitating adjustment.Assuming a garage rate of £80 ish, they are basically quoting to do the job in 2 hours. In the past when we have done a full set up on our race and rally cars, the worst of them has taken a lot of time, swearing, hobnobs, and coffee to get right - That was a mini se7en, and a complete waste of time as the first time one of them rumbles a big kerb, the whole lot gets punched out of alignment anyway.
These are the coilovers I have:
http://www.buddyclubuk.com/damper-rsd.htm
And are the inverted kind, so the height adjustment is done from spinning the bottom sleeve.
I've decided to try them out again, and I'm going to start fitting them shortly.
First of all I'm going to align the height and the 'lower arm bar'? the same as the standard shocks, and will just test them out. As previously they were comically bouncy (turned out they were stupidly preloaded and the tyres were very very under-inflated), so I don't want that again !
Just out of curiosity, the rebound adjustment.
When I push the insert down, how quickly should it come back out ?
I only say this as I don't want to mess around with the rebound because I managed to break one of the knobs, which I'm hoping someone can weld back on. So I'm leaving them well alone!
http://www.buddyclubuk.com/damper-rsd.htm
And are the inverted kind, so the height adjustment is done from spinning the bottom sleeve.
I've decided to try them out again, and I'm going to start fitting them shortly.
First of all I'm going to align the height and the 'lower arm bar'? the same as the standard shocks, and will just test them out. As previously they were comically bouncy (turned out they were stupidly preloaded and the tyres were very very under-inflated), so I don't want that again !
Just out of curiosity, the rebound adjustment.
When I push the insert down, how quickly should it come back out ?
I only say this as I don't want to mess around with the rebound because I managed to break one of the knobs, which I'm hoping someone can weld back on. So I'm leaving them well alone!
I'm still not quite understanding the corner weight.(the car is a mk2 MR2 for reference)
What I was initially going to do was jack the car up, put it on axel stands, remove the standard suspension, align the coilovers to the same height ect, fix the coilovers back on via the top mounts, and lower the car by 35mm roughly (using a fixed point on the coilover to measure, count turns ect)
Then pop the wheels back on.
But I don't quite understand loading up the driver seat with weight, and how it will work with my inverted ones ?
What I was initially going to do was jack the car up, put it on axel stands, remove the standard suspension, align the coilovers to the same height ect, fix the coilovers back on via the top mounts, and lower the car by 35mm roughly (using a fixed point on the coilover to measure, count turns ect)
Then pop the wheels back on.
But I don't quite understand loading up the driver seat with weight, and how it will work with my inverted ones ?
By sticking all 4 wheels on a set of scales each, you can work out how the car is balanced from the weight recorded on each corner. You then can make adjustments to the ride height at each corner to change the balance of the car.
If you were going completely neutral, you'd change it so that all 4 corners read the same weight.
The point of a sack of spuds on the driver's seat is to replicate the weight of the driver, so you can set the car up to compensate for this extra weight.
If you were going completely neutral, you'd change it so that all 4 corners read the same weight.
The point of a sack of spuds on the driver's seat is to replicate the weight of the driver, so you can set the car up to compensate for this extra weight.
I'm not at all sure you need worry about corner weights on an MR2 on the road. The point about corner scales as that as you ajdust the height at each corner, you are actually adjusting the amount of weight.
However, what I'd suggest is to put your weight in the driver's seat and measure the ground to top of wheelarch height at each wheel. before you modify anything. They won't be the same all round. Oh and check the tyre pressures first!
As a starting point (assuming there's nothing wrong with your car and it is currently standard), average out the measurements for the two front wheels and the two back wheels and make those your target front and rear heights for when you reset the heights after fitting the coil overs. You will NOT be able to adjust the ride heights unless the car is back on the ground.
Be aware that lowering the car by just adusting the coil overs will effectively move the suspension into a permanent 'bump' position. I don't know enough about the MR2, but on some cars, static lowering can upset the geometry and lead to increased tyre wear, and less grip in certain circumstances.
However, what I'd suggest is to put your weight in the driver's seat and measure the ground to top of wheelarch height at each wheel. before you modify anything. They won't be the same all round. Oh and check the tyre pressures first!
As a starting point (assuming there's nothing wrong with your car and it is currently standard), average out the measurements for the two front wheels and the two back wheels and make those your target front and rear heights for when you reset the heights after fitting the coil overs. You will NOT be able to adjust the ride heights unless the car is back on the ground.
Be aware that lowering the car by just adusting the coil overs will effectively move the suspension into a permanent 'bump' position. I don't know enough about the MR2, but on some cars, static lowering can upset the geometry and lead to increased tyre wear, and less grip in certain circumstances.
RobPhoboS said:
Hi guys !
Cheers for the heads up on 'wheels in motion'.
I watched a few video's on youtube last night which have given me a better understanding of how to get it initially set up, and I'd need to get the alignment done again anyway.
I've got enough weights in the garage to simulate driver weight, so I'll give it a shot myself to start with, then either take it to my friend or someone like wheels in motion.
Cheers !
I would definitely recommend Wheels In Motion. Also for what are you setting them up for?Cheers for the heads up on 'wheels in motion'.
I watched a few video's on youtube last night which have given me a better understanding of how to get it initially set up, and I'd need to get the alignment done again anyway.
I've got enough weights in the garage to simulate driver weight, so I'll give it a shot myself to start with, then either take it to my friend or someone like wheels in motion.
Cheers !
Cheers Paul for the tips and info 
Unfortunately I had already started removing the standard ones before I saw this post, doh.
The height has nothing to do with the rebound or spring tension on my ones, its all separate. That's why I am a bit confused about corner weighting.
What I have done so far, is use a tape measure to make sure that the fronts are exactly the same (using a high point on the coilovers that isn't affected).
Edit:
Ah, now I think my brain is waking up a little bit.
Ok so at the moment I know that both are exactly the same height.
SO now, pop the weights into the drivers seat (which will compress the spring), take the measurement as you suggested (wheel arch/ground), then adjust the other side accordingly.
Got it.
I think.
Unfortunately I had already started removing the standard ones before I saw this post, doh.
Paul Drawmer said:
You will NOT be able to adjust the ride heights unless the car is back on the ground.
I can only adjust the height by removing the wheel, and taking the two large bolts which connect it to the back of the brake calliper assembly thingy (sorry don't know the exact name for that part), then I have to spin this piece up or down for height.The height has nothing to do with the rebound or spring tension on my ones, its all separate. That's why I am a bit confused about corner weighting.
What I have done so far, is use a tape measure to make sure that the fronts are exactly the same (using a high point on the coilovers that isn't affected).
Edit:
Ah, now I think my brain is waking up a little bit.
Ok so at the moment I know that both are exactly the same height.
SO now, pop the weights into the drivers seat (which will compress the spring), take the measurement as you suggested (wheel arch/ground), then adjust the other side accordingly.
Got it.
I think.
Edited by RobPhoboS on Sunday 18th January 18:07
elster said:
RobPhoboS said:
Hi guys !
Cheers for the heads up on 'wheels in motion'.
I watched a few video's on youtube last night which have given me a better understanding of how to get it initially set up, and I'd need to get the alignment done again anyway.
I've got enough weights in the garage to simulate driver weight, so I'll give it a shot myself to start with, then either take it to my friend or someone like wheels in motion.
Cheers !
I would definitely recommend Wheels In Motion. Also for what are you setting them up for?Cheers for the heads up on 'wheels in motion'.
I watched a few video's on youtube last night which have given me a better understanding of how to get it initially set up, and I'd need to get the alignment done again anyway.
I've got enough weights in the garage to simulate driver weight, so I'll give it a shot myself to start with, then either take it to my friend or someone like wheels in motion.
Cheers !
wow this is interesting stuff
i fitted some cheap k sport coilovers to my mr2 a couple of years ago, and the extent of my setting up was just to measure them and ajust them to the same height and then bolt them on the car. i suppose i should get round to setting them up properly, but it drove well and there always seems something more important to do lol!
anyway, any tips on ajusting the damping and possibly preload, as all i did was start with the damping knob turned all one way and drive the car about a bit while ajusting the damping till it seemed ok!
i never messed about with preload. (the ksport coilovers you can preload the springs without affecting ride hight) am i right in assuming it makes the ride a bit harder??? or more bouncy??? i cant remember, i did read up about it at the time but it was ages ago!
i fitted some cheap k sport coilovers to my mr2 a couple of years ago, and the extent of my setting up was just to measure them and ajust them to the same height and then bolt them on the car. i suppose i should get round to setting them up properly, but it drove well and there always seems something more important to do lol!
anyway, any tips on ajusting the damping and possibly preload, as all i did was start with the damping knob turned all one way and drive the car about a bit while ajusting the damping till it seemed ok!
i never messed about with preload. (the ksport coilovers you can preload the springs without affecting ride hight) am i right in assuming it makes the ride a bit harder??? or more bouncy??? i cant remember, i did read up about it at the time but it was ages ago!
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