New Skoda Octavia vRS 2.0 TDI CR - should I buy one?
Discussion
I've just ordered my new company lease car and this was attached to the quote. Seems it must be a common problem with DPFs if they attach this disclaimer to quotes?
Lease Company said:
Diesel Particulate Filters (DPF)
What is the Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF)?
Since the introduction of the DPF system in 2006, most diesel powered motor vehicles now have this component fitted as standard.
In simple terms, the Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF) is part of the exhaust system responsible for cleaning the engine exhaust gasses before they enter the atmosphere.
How does the DPF work?
In addition to converting harmful exhaust gasses, in the same way as the conventional Catalytic converter, the DPF also catches soot particles emitted in the exhaust gas. The DPF continues to collect soot particles until a predetermined level is reached. At this point the DPF will clean itself through a process known as DPF regeneration. This process increases the temperature within the DPF unit and burns off the soot particles.
How will the DPF affect my choice of vehicle?
In order to carry out the regeneration process the DPF needs to reach and maintain an exhaust temperature higher than its normal operating temperature. Under most conditions the vehicle is able to carry out the regeneration procedure unaided. However, in some circumstances where the temperature cannot be achieved, i.e. frequent short journeys or stop start driving, the vehicle may fail to regenerate the DPF. If this situation occurs, the DPF warning light will illuminate on the dash.
What you will have to do if the DPF warning light comes on?
The warning light could come on between 10 and 1,000 miles dependant on driving conditions. When the warning light is illuminated, it does not mean there is a fault on the vehicle, it means the vehicle requires help to carry out the regeneration process. The procedure involves the vehicle being driven in a certain way to help increase the exhaust temperature. It is imperative that the warning light is not ignored and that the set procedure is followed and not interrupted to enable the correct regeneration of the DPF. Most vehicles require the vehicle to be driven continuously for approximately 15-20 minutes at a speed of at least 45 mph in fourth or fifth gear (automatic transmissions, select sports mode), to maintain an engine speed of at least 2,000 rpm (refer to owner handbook). If the conditions described are not met and the DPF warning light does not switch off, the level of soot in the DPF will continue to rise whereupon the DPF unit will eventually block up completely and the vehicle will not be able to regenerate the DPF. If this situation occurs the DPF will need to be replaced.
If the DPF requires replacing and the manufacturer’s guidelines and recommendations have not been followed and adhered to, the cost of the replacement will not be covered by the manufacturer’s warranty and may well be charged to you.
Before placing your new car order, please consider the following
Continuous driving conditions in built up areas, inner-city centres and the Channel Islands do not provide optimum conditions for the regeneration process.
Consider your regular driving style and length of your regular journeys to allow for the driving conditions required for DPF regeneration.
If your normal driving conditions are any of the above, you must be prepared for the DPF warning light to illuminate on your vehicle. This will then involve having to drive the vehicle in the said environmental conditions (normally on the motorway) for a period of up to 20 minutes continuously.
Please bear in mind that this process will have to be repeated regularly if the vehicle cannot dynamically regenerate the DPF during your normal driving.
I've had diesels before and never had a problem, though maybe that's just my driving style. You know what they say, there's nothing faster than a company car What is the Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF)?
Since the introduction of the DPF system in 2006, most diesel powered motor vehicles now have this component fitted as standard.
In simple terms, the Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF) is part of the exhaust system responsible for cleaning the engine exhaust gasses before they enter the atmosphere.
How does the DPF work?
In addition to converting harmful exhaust gasses, in the same way as the conventional Catalytic converter, the DPF also catches soot particles emitted in the exhaust gas. The DPF continues to collect soot particles until a predetermined level is reached. At this point the DPF will clean itself through a process known as DPF regeneration. This process increases the temperature within the DPF unit and burns off the soot particles.
How will the DPF affect my choice of vehicle?
In order to carry out the regeneration process the DPF needs to reach and maintain an exhaust temperature higher than its normal operating temperature. Under most conditions the vehicle is able to carry out the regeneration procedure unaided. However, in some circumstances where the temperature cannot be achieved, i.e. frequent short journeys or stop start driving, the vehicle may fail to regenerate the DPF. If this situation occurs, the DPF warning light will illuminate on the dash.
What you will have to do if the DPF warning light comes on?
The warning light could come on between 10 and 1,000 miles dependant on driving conditions. When the warning light is illuminated, it does not mean there is a fault on the vehicle, it means the vehicle requires help to carry out the regeneration process. The procedure involves the vehicle being driven in a certain way to help increase the exhaust temperature. It is imperative that the warning light is not ignored and that the set procedure is followed and not interrupted to enable the correct regeneration of the DPF. Most vehicles require the vehicle to be driven continuously for approximately 15-20 minutes at a speed of at least 45 mph in fourth or fifth gear (automatic transmissions, select sports mode), to maintain an engine speed of at least 2,000 rpm (refer to owner handbook). If the conditions described are not met and the DPF warning light does not switch off, the level of soot in the DPF will continue to rise whereupon the DPF unit will eventually block up completely and the vehicle will not be able to regenerate the DPF. If this situation occurs the DPF will need to be replaced.
If the DPF requires replacing and the manufacturer’s guidelines and recommendations have not been followed and adhered to, the cost of the replacement will not be covered by the manufacturer’s warranty and may well be charged to you.
Before placing your new car order, please consider the following
Continuous driving conditions in built up areas, inner-city centres and the Channel Islands do not provide optimum conditions for the regeneration process.
Consider your regular driving style and length of your regular journeys to allow for the driving conditions required for DPF regeneration.
If your normal driving conditions are any of the above, you must be prepared for the DPF warning light to illuminate on your vehicle. This will then involve having to drive the vehicle in the said environmental conditions (normally on the motorway) for a period of up to 20 minutes continuously.
Please bear in mind that this process will have to be repeated regularly if the vehicle cannot dynamically regenerate the DPF during your normal driving.
Leadfoot said:
Anthracite petrol DSG vRS hatch ordered.
Now for a long wait until delivery.
Picked it up on Friday. I hadn't realised how big it is for a Golf platform car, parked next to my Leon it's much longer (hence all the room in the back/boot I suppose).Now for a long wait until delivery.
Only done 80 odd miles so far, but I think the DSG 'box is going to take a bit of getting used to.
I think these cars are a fantasic bargain - if you go for a manual petrol & resist the options you can pick them up for <£16K.
Sam_68 said:
Leadfoot said:
..I think the DSG 'box is going to take a bit of getting used to.
Would you car to expand?In "S" it changes up at the right time, but changes down too early for my liking. Also seems to drop down a gear where I would just stay in the one I was in when acceleratng gently.
Using the padles to shift manualy doesn't feel that natural at the moment - they turn with the wheel, I think it'd be better if they were fixed on the steering column, I've gone for a gear a few times to find the paddles aren't where my fingers are!
I'm sure I'll get used to the DSG, at the moment I'm comparing the driving experience to a car that I've had fo 8 years/80K miles (so I know it pretty well!). I understand that the box adapts to your driving style as well.
I bought the DSG box (which I did test drive) because I thought it would give me an auto when I'm feeling lazy with the interaction & control of a manual when I want to drive "properly". At this stage I feel it's neither one thing or another - sort of a 3rd way, which may be no bad thing but might take time for me to get the feel of.
I also think I was expecting the auto modes "D & S" to operate like a conventional torque converter auto, but they don't really. Going up thru' the box - yes, but changing down into the lower gears in "S" they come in with a bit of a lurch & some unexpected engine braking (as the box changes down into 2nd).
The lack of any creep at idle can also make driving in traffic queues different to any auto experience you've had before, as you need to use the accelerator to move forward - but very gently to avoid a lurch - instead of just releasing the brake. Not a fault just different.
None of these points occured to me on a test drive 'cos I was too busy playing with up/down shifts to notice.
I'm sure I'll get used to it & make the most of its plus points, but not sure it's the silver bullett I thought it would be.
Ask me again in a couple of weeks & I'll have probably been won over!
Thanks for that - that's useful.
Sounds as though it has shortcomings, but hopefully won't drive me too mad.
I tend to change down fairly early anyway, so maybe I'll get on OK with it in 'S' mode when I'm being lazy. The lack of creep in traffic sounds a pain, if you have to be careful with the throttle to avoid lurching, but fortunately I don't do much traffic where I live.
My other big misgiving was the fact that I habitually heel-and-toe on my current Octavia (which has the best pedal set-up I've come across for H&T when you're wearing size 10 office shoes), which will be rendered redundant with the DSG. Does it auto-blip the throttle for you, coming down the gears on the paddles and, if not, is there anything you can do with the throttle to help matters? I'm guessing the gear selection is virtually instantaneous, so there's no opportunity to blip the throttle while the clutch is disengaged, as on a conventional box?
Sounds as though it has shortcomings, but hopefully won't drive me too mad.
I tend to change down fairly early anyway, so maybe I'll get on OK with it in 'S' mode when I'm being lazy. The lack of creep in traffic sounds a pain, if you have to be careful with the throttle to avoid lurching, but fortunately I don't do much traffic where I live.
My other big misgiving was the fact that I habitually heel-and-toe on my current Octavia (which has the best pedal set-up I've come across for H&T when you're wearing size 10 office shoes), which will be rendered redundant with the DSG. Does it auto-blip the throttle for you, coming down the gears on the paddles and, if not, is there anything you can do with the throttle to help matters? I'm guessing the gear selection is virtually instantaneous, so there's no opportunity to blip the throttle while the clutch is disengaged, as on a conventional box?
Right, a few more miles in the car now & I'm getting used to DSG.
Manual mode is great fun for thrashing around, but I'd still prefer the paddles fixed on the column instead of turning with the wheel.
D is great for tooling around in traffic - just changes up too many gears too soon.
S is good going up the box, but has a bit of an annoying trait; say the box changes up to 3rd, but I decide 4th would be better & manually upshift - after a while the box reverts to auto mode & then it decides 3rd it should be & downshifts. It'd be much better if the box stayed in the gear I'd selected until there was a speed or throttle position change.
S still likes to change down from 3rd to 2nd, when slowing down, too soon for my liking.
Very pleased with the car overall.
Manual mode is great fun for thrashing around, but I'd still prefer the paddles fixed on the column instead of turning with the wheel.
D is great for tooling around in traffic - just changes up too many gears too soon.
S is good going up the box, but has a bit of an annoying trait; say the box changes up to 3rd, but I decide 4th would be better & manually upshift - after a while the box reverts to auto mode & then it decides 3rd it should be & downshifts. It'd be much better if the box stayed in the gear I'd selected until there was a speed or throttle position change.
S still likes to change down from 3rd to 2nd, when slowing down, too soon for my liking.
Very pleased with the car overall.
prolfe said:
Hello
probably the wrong place for an intro but i saw my vRS on here and thought i'd register and come say hi.
Glad you were inspired enough by the car to go an get one.
I've covered 30k in a year and am still loving it.
Welcome to the forum prolfe. probably the wrong place for an intro but i saw my vRS on here and thought i'd register and come say hi.
Glad you were inspired enough by the car to go an get one.
I've covered 30k in a year and am still loving it.
Be interested to hear about your vRS experiences - I went to see a white vRs DSG hatchback yesterday (not had a test drive yet though) and any info on your purchase/spec/servicing/repairs etc would be appreciated!
The spec i have is the basic spec.
A manual CR vRS in as you've seen in post #1 Candy White.
The stanard spec has been great so far, parking sensors are something I wished i had gone for. I've not missed the much talked about Maxidot. Someone or a dealer with VCDS can change things for you if you need them too, so seemed a waste of money really.
I got it directly from Skoda and have it on a PCP, only one thing has gone wrong so far and thats a little bit of rubber trim on the rear screen, this is being replaced under warranty and strangely the whole screen needs replacing. Their money I suppose.
I had a 170 PD A3 before and dont miss it at all. The interior is better designed in the A3 but apart from that the vRS is better in every way.
If you do get one you'll have to get used to the air of smugness that you'll soon adopt. I love driving a Skoda, although I'm not sure why as surely everyone knows they are built by VAG and like many other makes and models are based on the Golf platform.
You'll see from my profile that I've painted the chrome grill white. Looks a whole lot better IMO.
Any other Q's just ask.
A manual CR vRS in as you've seen in post #1 Candy White.
The stanard spec has been great so far, parking sensors are something I wished i had gone for. I've not missed the much talked about Maxidot. Someone or a dealer with VCDS can change things for you if you need them too, so seemed a waste of money really.
I got it directly from Skoda and have it on a PCP, only one thing has gone wrong so far and thats a little bit of rubber trim on the rear screen, this is being replaced under warranty and strangely the whole screen needs replacing. Their money I suppose.
I had a 170 PD A3 before and dont miss it at all. The interior is better designed in the A3 but apart from that the vRS is better in every way.
If you do get one you'll have to get used to the air of smugness that you'll soon adopt. I love driving a Skoda, although I'm not sure why as surely everyone knows they are built by VAG and like many other makes and models are based on the Golf platform.
You'll see from my profile that I've painted the chrome grill white. Looks a whole lot better IMO.
Any other Q's just ask.
Edited by prolfe on Friday 14th January 09:35
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