RE: SOTW: Mitsubishi 3000GT
Discussion
what's the fuel economy like on the manual. versions?
I remember being in one while driving up the pacific coast highway, even though manual it had cruise control and it used turbo boost to maintain speed going up hill. I thought it was ace and still want one, but I want 30 mpg...
I remember being in one while driving up the pacific coast highway, even though manual it had cruise control and it used turbo boost to maintain speed going up hill. I thought it was ace and still want one, but I want 30 mpg...
ellisd82 said:
Good SOTW....for another £500 you can get a newer TT version 
http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/2269691.htm
Or for a small £105 (and some risk) you can have a 65k model
http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/2172954.htm
http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/2269691.htm
Or for a small £105 (and some risk) you can have a 65k model
http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/2172954.htm
Edited by ellisd82 on Friday 26th November 14:00
GTO Scott said:
Rs2oo said:
You are so right. This is the only car I ever got caught out with from an auction. Turbo Auto drove through the auction hall ok, but when I went to drive it home the gearbox was knackered. I let loose on the auction centre but all they would do was re-entre it into the auction on my behalf. Because of the gear-box problem, I lost £400 but at the time I was relieved to get shot. This was 10 years ago. Always drive these things well before you part with £££££££
You sure it was a twin turbo? Mitsubishi never did a twin turbo automatic because the box got all hot and bothered. The only factory-built autos were the non-turbos.
I own 2 of these, both TTs, always keep them regularly serviced, no real problems even with high mileage, all the bits still work. With these cars history is important, if they have been all chavved out and modded could have problems worth more than the purchase price. Many of these cars are now worth more as parted out propositions rather then as a whole car.
daveco said:
jackbarclay said:
I never really understood where the 3000gt name came from. I always felt that the supra should have been called this as a continuation of the classic 2000gt. Although I suppose this was realised in the TRD 3000gt. Does Mitsubishi have any claim to "3000gt"?
Isn't it a 3.0 litre hence the 3000? This NA version probably takes around 10 seconds to 60; no thanks!
GTO Scott said:
Trust me, I do understand 'shedding' - my current daily drive is a £400 Peugeot 406 HDi. However, given that any pub idiot will readily spout b
ks about these cars and how unreliable they are, I felt an illustration of why folks really should avoid a cheap GTO/3000GT unless they plan to spend some cash on it was necessary.
405 1.9TD 'Executive' Estate here - 214K miles and counting ks about these cars and how unreliable they are, I felt an illustration of why folks really should avoid a cheap GTO/3000GT unless they plan to spend some cash on it was necessary.
I think you're still missing the point - 'shedding' is buying a cheap car and running it cheaply. It's not buying a car and spending a fortune bringing it upto mechanical perfection - that's restoration/classic car territory.
Cambelts are a moody issue - if a car has no history of a change then you need to decide whether you risk it or not. A £900 car which needs a £450 cambelt is actually a £1350 car and not a < £1K shed really...
Shedding is about doing it cheap - not following rigourous maintenance schedules, using top-grade oils etc. My last shed (a Vectra) even ran on used oil because it burned it so much it really didn't matter
Sheds - you buy em and you drive em until they stop when you bodge em and keep driving em until it's no longer practical (when you either scrap em - or bodge, sell and duck!!)
We have to separate ourselves from the 'restore it to original' nutters
Edited by johnpeat on Saturday 27th November 03:17
johnpeat said:
I think you're still missing the point - 'shedding' is buying a cheap car and running it cheaply.
Believe me - I really do understand it. The 406 has no history and hasn't even ever been washed in my ownership. The only money i've spent is on fuel. The point I was trying to make was that people see a cheap GTO and then wonder why they've got to spend money to keep it on the road. Out of the last 50-odd car's i've had, 40 of them have been sheds - run for minimal cost and shifted on before I lose anything.I owned a Uk spec 3000Gt for four years as a daily driver and frankly it was brilliant. Mine was mildly tuned to about 340bhp and the only thing that broke on it was the alternator. Otherwise never gave me any trouble. I really regret selling that car now. Top motors. In answer to an earlier question they average about 22mpg.
As an owner of a very clean well kept '98 VR-4 producing just over 330 BHP, standard except for air filters (JDM Twin Mushroom) and lowered suspension (Tein). I can have nothing but praise for any clean and straight GTO's generally, but there are a heck of a lot of variants and sheds out there to confuse the market price and to liberate your hard earned cash from your wallet. But they sure are a heck of a lot of fun to drive.
Good SOTW and yes i'm also playing GT5. and have my car on it.
Good SOTW and yes i'm also playing GT5. and have my car on it.
Olivera said:
What I don't quite understand is, given early Imprezas and Evos are available from about 2 grand, whats the point in buying a Mitsu GTO thats heavier, slower and unreliable?
There are a lot of very fast, heavy cars.Like any performance car, if properly serviced and not abused, they are no more or less reliable.
Slower? Check http://www.car-videos.net/performance/speed.asp?Sp...
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