RE: Mazda Eunos Roadster - too cheap not to?
Discussion
suffolk009 said:
There's Jay's Miata behind his Elan, Atom, Rocket, and F1.
(bet he wishes he had a midget like mine!)
Had a B Roadster, never a midget. Although I have a couple of Spitfires in my time.... so right engine I suppose. :-)
Agree with everything that's been said here already... especially the bit about not buying the first one you see... or in the rain...or ( in the cae of soft tops) when the sun shines...but I did. In September... same as this car without the hideous rear spoiler... and it has been a COMPLETE HOOT. Used throughout the winter and it has never missed a beat...the new battery I bought has been the only expense...otherwise just fuel. To those of you thinking about it ...just do it!!!
Several things of note
1. If you're going to drive it at higher speeds on the motorway then get a front lip spoiler - makes a hell of a difference
2. If you're going to do the cambelt do the water pump at the same time. These can go any time and require the same bits to be removed as with the belt swap.
3. If you go to the Ace Cafe on December the 18th with your top down, dry the car out thoroughly after - I'm still getting dripped on when I get in to the car
Had mine for 12 years (next month) now and don't regret it.
Oh and late edit - look up the headlamp diode flash mod - the early MK1s could only flash with the headlamps already up, the mod raises the barn doors first as should have been intended
1. If you're going to drive it at higher speeds on the motorway then get a front lip spoiler - makes a hell of a difference
2. If you're going to do the cambelt do the water pump at the same time. These can go any time and require the same bits to be removed as with the belt swap.
3. If you go to the Ace Cafe on December the 18th with your top down, dry the car out thoroughly after - I'm still getting dripped on when I get in to the car
Had mine for 12 years (next month) now and don't regret it.
Oh and late edit - look up the headlamp diode flash mod - the early MK1s could only flash with the headlamps already up, the mod raises the barn doors first as should have been intended
Edited by dapprman on Monday 31st January 15:12
Edited by dapprman on Monday 31st January 15:12
I bought mine last March. Black MK1 Eunos 1.6, LSD, tan leather etc. Advertised for £1,250, had a few marks on the body but 90% of it t-cut out. Eventually got it for £950, but sold the hardtop for £300 on ebay. So it owed me £650. New stereo, mats, and refurbed leather seats bought the total back upto £1,000. Serviced it and four new Toyo T1-Rs later it was subjected to 2,600 miles in 10 days round the Alps chasing 5 bike engined cars. Never missed a beat, and I was not driving it.... I was confident enough to lend it to my mate and his girlfriend to spank! Washed and polished it when it got home and it now resides with my Dad's new wife pottering around and still running perfectly. There are not many £1,000 sheds you can do that with. It even doubled up as a mountain rescue vehicle, at one time with SIX people in recovering 2 yamaha R1's and said bike-engined cars from a blizzard which stranded us at the top of the Swiss Grimselpass.... Quality little car, I have first refusal to buy it back if she ever sells it.
Although it may have had a viscous diff when it left the factory, it will probably be working as an open diff by now. The Torsen LSD is the proper mechanical diff but I think it was only fitted to the 1.8 Eunos cars, although you can fit one to a 1.6.
Edited by Risotto on Monday 31st January 15:34
I did this 6 years ago, but my Eunos 1.6 came already fully modded for trackday work with Mazdaspeed mods, BBS alloys. roll bar, adjustable suspension, stainless exhaust etc etc. Sold it 3 years later for £1850 and all I'd spent on that time was a new set of Goodyear Eagles and £150 for some bucket seats. Oh and I had to fit a new clutch slave cylinder and a top hose. it survived a couple of trackdays at Oulton Park without bothering the brakes and tyres due to the light weight.
I'd advise buying pre-modified if you can find one done properly!
Only car I ever regret selling.
I'd advise buying pre-modified if you can find one done properly!
Only car I ever regret selling.
If your anywhere near the South East (Kent) I would recommend you get the Cambelt done at Freelance Mazda. It's only £90 so hardly worth doing yourself. Link here: http://www.freelancemazda.co.uk/eunos.htm
Thanks,
Rob
MX5 Mk2.5 (1.8 in Silver)
Thanks,
Rob
MX5 Mk2.5 (1.8 in Silver)
Edited by golders on Monday 31st January 16:14
Great thread... 
Heres some top tips -
-Autolink – best place for spares and service bits alongside MX5parts – Autolink have pretty much anything you want 2nd hand too, bits of trim and such like.
-Rod Graingers Handbook – the bible. 1.6 Edition. Find it on Amazon – never pay a labour charge again. Guidance on not only fixing it, but looking after it and living with it. About £15 to your door probably.
-Timing belt – DIY it. Full job will cost you approx £120 in parts which includes all the relevant seals, gaskets, tensioners and some coolant (Easier job if you remove the rad, which in itself is a doddle).
Its really very easy, and you cant smash your engine to bits by getting it wrong.
- Clutch slave cylinder probably leaks/will leak at some point. £15. Gear s
t turret seals and will be wrecked if not done before, about £20. Both make the shift feel even better. Awkward box when cold in 1st and 2nd is hint that these might need looking at.Shifter also sits in an oil bath that most likely wont have been changed during a regular gearbox oil change by a non-specialist.
- Bilsteins arent really rated for Mk1's, way too harsh. Koni, KYB, Tockico all do cheap shocks and loads of sport spring options available.
- ALIGNMENT. Get it done. Properly.
-Rod your roof drain holes, behind the seatbelt tower.
Do not set your homepage to www.flyinmiata.com
Drive, Enjoy!
Heres some top tips -
-Autolink – best place for spares and service bits alongside MX5parts – Autolink have pretty much anything you want 2nd hand too, bits of trim and such like.
-Rod Graingers Handbook – the bible. 1.6 Edition. Find it on Amazon – never pay a labour charge again. Guidance on not only fixing it, but looking after it and living with it. About £15 to your door probably.
-Timing belt – DIY it. Full job will cost you approx £120 in parts which includes all the relevant seals, gaskets, tensioners and some coolant (Easier job if you remove the rad, which in itself is a doddle).
Its really very easy, and you cant smash your engine to bits by getting it wrong.
- Clutch slave cylinder probably leaks/will leak at some point. £15. Gear s
t turret seals and will be wrecked if not done before, about £20. Both make the shift feel even better. Awkward box when cold in 1st and 2nd is hint that these might need looking at.Shifter also sits in an oil bath that most likely wont have been changed during a regular gearbox oil change by a non-specialist.- Bilsteins arent really rated for Mk1's, way too harsh. Koni, KYB, Tockico all do cheap shocks and loads of sport spring options available.
- ALIGNMENT. Get it done. Properly.
-Rod your roof drain holes, behind the seatbelt tower.
Do not set your homepage to www.flyinmiata.com
Drive, Enjoy!
I bought mine for £750 back in April last year, spent a total of £270 on upgrades and maintenance, then I got a grand p/ex for it when I bought my Elise.
I do miss the F/R combo (M/R is hard to get right!) and I wouldn't say it was a slow car. Mine was a V-Spec 1.6 with the LSD and uprated induction and exhaust. 0-60 wasn't astounding but it could accelerate well in gear and was fine for overtaking. Nice torquey little motor.
I do miss the F/R combo (M/R is hard to get right!) and I wouldn't say it was a slow car. Mine was a V-Spec 1.6 with the LSD and uprated induction and exhaust. 0-60 wasn't astounding but it could accelerate well in gear and was fine for overtaking. Nice torquey little motor.
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