Running costs for a 15 year old 996
Discussion
LordHaveMurci said:
Thanks, have heard of Dansk before, they are on eBay for about £700 I believe. My local Indie has quoted me c£1200 fitted for 'Cargraphic type' exhaust, just need to weigh up my options before shelling out that kind of cash.
I was quoted:Dansk Sports silencers £556.00 + VAT
Fitting Kit £145.00 + VAT
Labour £258.00 + VAT
Total fitted inc VAT = £1150.80
Have no experience with Cargraphic, or "Cargraphic type" exhausts, but as I say, am very happy with what I have now. Having said that, there's Milltek boxes available for c.£100 a pair more than the Dansk, which I would have been tempted with if I wasn't already spending enough money on the rest of the car.
Moving slightly back on topic before this descends into another one of THOSE threads... *
My top tip for turboslippers (or any new cab owners) is make sure your handbrake is on when trying to open the roof.
Parked up for a week or so and left the handbrake off so the brakes didn't bind ... I found myself helplessly pressing my roof button whilst the warning light flashed away at me. It was only an hour or so later (after much wailing and sobbing thinking about repair bills) that I thought to go back and try it again...
But then it did take me 6 months to find the "secret" door bins
My top tip for turboslippers (or any new cab owners) is make sure your handbrake is on when trying to open the roof.
Parked up for a week or so and left the handbrake off so the brakes didn't bind ... I found myself helplessly pressing my roof button whilst the warning light flashed away at me. It was only an hour or so later (after much wailing and sobbing thinking about repair bills) that I thought to go back and try it again...
But then it did take me 6 months to find the "secret" door bins
- yes, I KNOW it STARTED as one of those threads anyway
Cheers all, yup, the reason for having the inspection is not really engine related as don't think anything bar a look down the bores will tell me much. It's more about, in an experts opinion, which bits need replacing soon i.e exhaust, shocks, bushes, rads etc etc. I can then make a sensible decision on whether to proceed with the purchase.
I'm an automotive engineer and reasonably handy so minor things likes brakes etc I can do myself...it's just the fettling/yearly service and other stuff that I'd like to have a specialist I could trust.
Yes, of course it COULD blow up and there are a myriad of other cars that are less risky. There are a myriad that are MORE risky as well though. Engine rebuilds on my Skyline GTR weren't exactly cheap either so understand the concept of pain in that area!
Mike, thanks, I will pass on this top tip to the missus as, no doubt, I WILL get a phone call from her saying the roof is bust. A bit like the call I got a month ago saying the MX5 was 'dead' outside her gym. After listening to the symptoms (which sounded just like rarely used immobilizer kicked in) I told her to press the arm/disarm on the immobiliser keyfob and it would then start. Nope, it wasn't that...definitely not...not stupid etc etc. So I drove round there, leaned through window, disarmed immobilizer on the fob and started the car. I then got back in my car and drove off without saying anything with the sounds of 'but but but, I did that....' trailing off in the distance..
I'm an automotive engineer and reasonably handy so minor things likes brakes etc I can do myself...it's just the fettling/yearly service and other stuff that I'd like to have a specialist I could trust.
Yes, of course it COULD blow up and there are a myriad of other cars that are less risky. There are a myriad that are MORE risky as well though. Engine rebuilds on my Skyline GTR weren't exactly cheap either so understand the concept of pain in that area!
Mike, thanks, I will pass on this top tip to the missus as, no doubt, I WILL get a phone call from her saying the roof is bust. A bit like the call I got a month ago saying the MX5 was 'dead' outside her gym. After listening to the symptoms (which sounded just like rarely used immobilizer kicked in) I told her to press the arm/disarm on the immobiliser keyfob and it would then start. Nope, it wasn't that...definitely not...not stupid etc etc. So I drove round there, leaned through window, disarmed immobilizer on the fob and started the car. I then got back in my car and drove off without saying anything with the sounds of 'but but but, I did that....' trailing off in the distance..
One thing I've noticed with these cars is that (from what I've seen) they are pretty good for lack of rust? I'll admit the first time I Went out in a 996 years ago I was surprised at the road noise and then tapped a few panels, only to realise they are not of the same thickness of a 964...different era of build quality (my mates 993 has THE best door 'clunk' closing noise ever). Haven't seen any 996 with rusty arches though?
Same can't be said for the E46 BMW, which has put me off 330's/M3's a bit in the past as a reasonable number seem to succumb to bubbling arches within 10 years. My old E36 328 went that way whilst my Saab 9-5 (or any of my saabs) have never ever shown a hint of rust on the bodywork.
Same can't be said for the E46 BMW, which has put me off 330's/M3's a bit in the past as a reasonable number seem to succumb to bubbling arches within 10 years. My old E36 328 went that way whilst my Saab 9-5 (or any of my saabs) have never ever shown a hint of rust on the bodywork.
Drove two today...both tiptronic 3.4. First one was a bit 'boring' as totally standard 62k car and i didn't get chance to open it up. Second one was the full 3k carbon pack and gt3 kit, 996 turbo alloys, reversing cameras etc etc. Also had a Jaz exhaust...it sounded outrageous. It also had brand new pirelli p-zero's and pads/discs but the history file with partial engine rebuilt/new gearbox made for uncomfortable reading. It was a very early S/98 996 and it's too risky for me. Also, all the carbon trim was cracking which appears to be common and tap all you can do about it...
This other 996 is a very nice (if quite sober) example. Partner is interested as long as it can be 'tweaked' to make special. Amusingly she preferred the 98k S reg one as it wasn't so 'hard work'. What she meant was that it was a bit sloppy around the center. I am still trying to explain that the wonderfully 'darty' steering on the 62k example was a GOOD thing...
This other 996 is a very nice (if quite sober) example. Partner is interested as long as it can be 'tweaked' to make special. Amusingly she preferred the 98k S reg one as it wasn't so 'hard work'. What she meant was that it was a bit sloppy around the center. I am still trying to explain that the wonderfully 'darty' steering on the 62k example was a GOOD thing...
I've had quite a few 996 of various specs and my daily driver is a 1999 narrow body C4 3.4. I do a lot of miles and it is also used as the chase car/fire tender when we are testing. To say it gets well used is a bit of an understatement having done 18K miles so far this year.
It's not that standard but maybe more importantly for your decision the engine and box is, indeed it's still on it's original clutch at 117K miles. Oil consumption is in the region of 150ml per 1000 miles on 0W/40, I borescoped it in May when it had a big service and all is still fine in there, even on bank 2 where there is scuffing which I consider minimal for the miles (and some would say abuse).
The early 3.4 engines do seem to be much, much stronger than the later 3.6, specifically due to the dual row IMS bearing and ferrous piston coating, bore scuffing on the 3.4 with ferrous piston coating is pretty much a none issue vs the 3.6 where it seems to kill the most engines.
Biggest expense I find is fuel (at 95 quid a fill as it has the original tank and a 20ltr ATL aux tank), servicing and parts are comparitively dirt cheap and certainly no more than a similar age BMW M or Merc AMG. Mine does run some more expensive than OE 342mm floating rotors but these seem to last 15-20K miles or so with quite aggresive pads hence on a per 1K miles basis are pretty cheap for the performance they provide. I do have the dampers off every year or 20K miles for a quick check over but again if you're on standard bits this is not a requirement and at 80K miles the standard stuff on mine still felt pretty good. Coffin arms and bushes are needed every 100K miles or so (some say sooner), wheel bearings seem to last forever even with big temperatures going into them and in my experience the shells never seem to rust in any major way.
M96 lumps do seem to get a fair bit of stick but I've had three M96 powered cars and have done over 150K miles in them in total without any engine issues greater than a coil or MAF. My gear linkage did fall apart yesterday which meant a drive to work this morning with 1st, 3rd and 5th missing but as it was a 5 minute fix and I've now lock wired it to stop it happening again I think I can let it off that - afterall there aren't many 15 year old cars that will do 170mph and that you can pile 750 miles a week on with pretty much zero hassle ;-)
It's not that standard but maybe more importantly for your decision the engine and box is, indeed it's still on it's original clutch at 117K miles. Oil consumption is in the region of 150ml per 1000 miles on 0W/40, I borescoped it in May when it had a big service and all is still fine in there, even on bank 2 where there is scuffing which I consider minimal for the miles (and some would say abuse).
The early 3.4 engines do seem to be much, much stronger than the later 3.6, specifically due to the dual row IMS bearing and ferrous piston coating, bore scuffing on the 3.4 with ferrous piston coating is pretty much a none issue vs the 3.6 where it seems to kill the most engines.
Biggest expense I find is fuel (at 95 quid a fill as it has the original tank and a 20ltr ATL aux tank), servicing and parts are comparitively dirt cheap and certainly no more than a similar age BMW M or Merc AMG. Mine does run some more expensive than OE 342mm floating rotors but these seem to last 15-20K miles or so with quite aggresive pads hence on a per 1K miles basis are pretty cheap for the performance they provide. I do have the dampers off every year or 20K miles for a quick check over but again if you're on standard bits this is not a requirement and at 80K miles the standard stuff on mine still felt pretty good. Coffin arms and bushes are needed every 100K miles or so (some say sooner), wheel bearings seem to last forever even with big temperatures going into them and in my experience the shells never seem to rust in any major way.
M96 lumps do seem to get a fair bit of stick but I've had three M96 powered cars and have done over 150K miles in them in total without any engine issues greater than a coil or MAF. My gear linkage did fall apart yesterday which meant a drive to work this morning with 1st, 3rd and 5th missing but as it was a 5 minute fix and I've now lock wired it to stop it happening again I think I can let it off that - afterall there aren't many 15 year old cars that will do 170mph and that you can pile 750 miles a week on with pretty much zero hassle ;-)
I keep coming back to this! http://www.pistonheads.com/classifieds/used-cars/p...
Never thought I'd like a yellow car though!
Never thought I'd like a yellow car though!
Gassing Station | 911/Carrera GT | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff