The 10k 996 GT3 Refresh ;)
Discussion
Oi from Norway everyone!
My Mk1 996 GT3 has around 80.000 miles now, and its getting ready for a refresh.
Bushings/brakes etc.
Should I go Powerflex or OEM bushings? Or Monoball/RSS? Its for road driving primarily.
Additionally, lemonade/lemons - what brakes should I upgrade to? No point buying new standard discs/brakes..?
cheers!
My Mk1 996 GT3 has around 80.000 miles now, and its getting ready for a refresh.
Bushings/brakes etc.
Should I go Powerflex or OEM bushings? Or Monoball/RSS? Its for road driving primarily.
Additionally, lemonade/lemons - what brakes should I upgrade to? No point buying new standard discs/brakes..?
cheers!
Sauriel said:
shocks are good, PSS9. Gearbox recently overhauled for 7000 euros all syncrorings including a 8:32 cup drive ( 2nd goes to 63 mph 3rd to around 90 mph").
Clutch is ok. Manthey exhaust is ok.
that's a lot more than 10k :-)Clutch is ok. Manthey exhaust is ok.
nice gearing though :-)
So mk2 calipers then ? this is also what PCCB use on my Spyder for Calipers. and a set of Brembo or Gyro disks 350mm
PorscheGT4 said:
that's a lot more than 10k :-)
nice gearing though :-)
So mk2 calipers then ? this is also what PCCB use on my Spyder for Calipers. and a set of Brembo or Gyro disks 350mm
Ignore him... nice gearing though :-)
So mk2 calipers then ? this is also what PCCB use on my Spyder for Calipers. and a set of Brembo or Gyro disks 350mm
For road use and the odd track day, just buy a set of standard 996.2 350mm discs from FVD Brombacher. From memory EUR140 each. Add the Mk2 calipers and you will have plenty of stopping power.
I would go with OEM bushings. Powerflex is the work of the Devil. Of course you can go fully rose-jointed, but then everything will vibrate and suddenly you would be aware of many new noises
I have it on my K400 and on track is amazing, but on the road is a bit too much...Edited by Cheburator mk2 on Thursday 3rd September 11:37
Sauriel said:
Oi from Norway everyone!
My Mk1 996 GT3 has around 80.000 miles now, and its getting ready for a refresh.
Bushings/brakes etc.
Should I go Powerflex or OEM bushings? Or Monoball/RSS? Its for road driving primarily.
Additionally, lemonade/lemons - what brakes should I upgrade to? No point buying new standard discs/brakes..?
cheers!
First of all - Good Job on the mileage My Mk1 996 GT3 has around 80.000 miles now, and its getting ready for a refresh.
Bushings/brakes etc.
Should I go Powerflex or OEM bushings? Or Monoball/RSS? Its for road driving primarily.
Additionally, lemonade/lemons - what brakes should I upgrade to? No point buying new standard discs/brakes..?
cheers!
Secondly, I would go for the full RSS tarmac series track rods, dog bones, lower control arms etc. Much more precise and harder wearing than the rubber stuff.
Brakes I am not sure of but if you speak to JZM then could give you some guidance.
V8KSN said:
First of all - Good Job on the mileage
Secondly, I would go for the full RSS tarmac series track rods, dog bones, lower control arms etc. Much more precise and harder wearing than the rubber stuff.
Brakes I am not sure of but if you speak to JZM then could give you some guidance.
Have you actually driven a car with fully rose-jointed suspension on the public road? Secondly, I would go for the full RSS tarmac series track rods, dog bones, lower control arms etc. Much more precise and harder wearing than the rubber stuff.
Brakes I am not sure of but if you speak to JZM then could give you some guidance.
As I said earlier, Manthey fitted Cup suspension bits to my 996.1 CS - all rose-joints, Manthey rose-jointed billet top mounts, and it is pretty bad on anything but the smoothest road. The levels of NVH are quite elevated compared to a standard CS, let alone a 997.Cheburator mk2 said:
Ignore him...
For road use and the odd track day, just buy a set of standard 996.2 350mm discs from FVD Brombacher. From memory EUR140 each. Add the Mk2 calipers and you will have plenty of stopping power.
I would go with OEM bushings. Powerflex is the work of the Devil. Of course you can go fully rose-jointed, but then everything will vibrate and suddenly you would be aware of many new noises I have it on my K400 and on track is amazing, but on the road is a bit too much...
Ignore me ! , but you have said fit 350mm disks and mk2 calipers lol er just what I said !!!For road use and the odd track day, just buy a set of standard 996.2 350mm discs from FVD Brombacher. From memory EUR140 each. Add the Mk2 calipers and you will have plenty of stopping power.
I would go with OEM bushings. Powerflex is the work of the Devil. Of course you can go fully rose-jointed, but then everything will vibrate and suddenly you would be aware of many new noises
I have it on my K400 and on track is amazing, but on the road is a bit too much...Edited by Cheburator mk2 on Thursday 3rd September 11:37
PorscheGT4 said:
Ignore me ! , but you have said fit 350mm disks and mk2 calipers lol er just what I said !!!
Of course you should be ignored - I said that Sauriel should fit standard 350mm 996.2 GT3s discs, which are a fraction of the cost of your stupid recommendation for 350mm Brembo or Gyro Discs, which are a complete overkill on the road and on most tracks too.Edited by Cheburator mk2 on Thursday 3rd September 13:37
The mk1 brake set up has greater clamping force and stopping power than the mk2 6 piston stuff. Where it lacks is in rotor mass. It uses 330mm rotors instead of 350mm rotors. This results in greater rotor temp increase for the same stopping condition.
Depending on how you drive and use the car, this may or may not matter. The "upgrade" isn't something that one needs to jump into unless you need the higher thermal capacity. Sorting cooling can be far cheaper and as effective anyways.
If you have 80k on the odometer with standard rotors, that probably tells you that what is on is perfectly capable.
There are plenty of 2 piece rotors you could fit versus simply replacing like for like with factory 330mm stuff. You pay your money, you take your choice on this but any product from the typical players in this market will be good.
There is also no need to stick with the factory pads either. Again plenty of choices from good manufacturers.
Looking at alternative rotors is likely a good place to spend your money. There are gains to be had there. Pads are unlikely to be worth it if you only drive on the street.
Polybushes can be a cost effective way to fix worn stock rubber bushes. You don't need to replace the whole arm going this route.
That being said, I haven't seen poly bushes in the suspension arms last particularly well in cars driven hard. They often seem to tear up pretty quickly. Again how you drive and use the car will inform this decision.
Sticking with stock or going solid mounting would be the two options that make sense from a performance perspective.
I have never found the addition of the solid joints to make much difference to in car noise either. Transmission mount and engine mounts are the big ones in that department.
Depending on how you drive and use the car, this may or may not matter. The "upgrade" isn't something that one needs to jump into unless you need the higher thermal capacity. Sorting cooling can be far cheaper and as effective anyways.
If you have 80k on the odometer with standard rotors, that probably tells you that what is on is perfectly capable.
There are plenty of 2 piece rotors you could fit versus simply replacing like for like with factory 330mm stuff. You pay your money, you take your choice on this but any product from the typical players in this market will be good.
There is also no need to stick with the factory pads either. Again plenty of choices from good manufacturers.
Looking at alternative rotors is likely a good place to spend your money. There are gains to be had there. Pads are unlikely to be worth it if you only drive on the street.
Polybushes can be a cost effective way to fix worn stock rubber bushes. You don't need to replace the whole arm going this route.
That being said, I haven't seen poly bushes in the suspension arms last particularly well in cars driven hard. They often seem to tear up pretty quickly. Again how you drive and use the car will inform this decision.
Sticking with stock or going solid mounting would be the two options that make sense from a performance perspective.
I have never found the addition of the solid joints to make much difference to in car noise either. Transmission mount and engine mounts are the big ones in that department.
Edited by fioran0 on Thursday 3rd September 14:44
The bushings simply make the control arms and their movements more stable, rather than adding any jarring to the ride in my experience.
Fresh OEM rubber is better than worn OEM rubber. Solid mounts are better than rubber.
As already mentioned, polyflex etc will let you correct a specific control arm bushing wear issue for a price that is usually cheaper than replacing the entire control arm. It can feel wasteful throwing out an entire arm.... though may feel less so after you have battled to remove the old rubber.
How comfortable the car feels on the road is down to the shocks and springs. These are controlling the body and the vertical wheel movement.
Fresh OEM rubber is better than worn OEM rubber. Solid mounts are better than rubber.
As already mentioned, polyflex etc will let you correct a specific control arm bushing wear issue for a price that is usually cheaper than replacing the entire control arm. It can feel wasteful throwing out an entire arm.... though may feel less so after you have battled to remove the old rubber.
How comfortable the car feels on the road is down to the shocks and springs. These are controlling the body and the vertical wheel movement.
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