Tilton Slave, Zircotech Headers and Injector cleaning

Tilton Slave, Zircotech Headers and Injector cleaning

Author
Discussion

aide

Original Poster:

2,276 posts

164 months

Friday 1st January 2016
quotequote all
Just made a start on a few jobs I need to get done before an upcoming Easter Road Trip with my dad..
The exact rout isn't planned just yet, the general route is:
-o- London, Calais, Oudenaarde for the Tour of Flanders
-o- Oudenaarde to Damgan for a few days
-o- Damgan, St. Malo, Southampton, London.

However, I need to get the following "niggles" seen to first:
-o- Tilton Slave
-o- Zircotech Headers
-o- Injector cleaning

Since the RP Slave failed, I had to manoeuvre the car into place on dollies..












I stripped the panels and airboxes off yesterday to gain access the the headers and will remove the gearbox today.

Happy New Year to all!
Aide

Gray_101

1,118 posts

190 months

Friday 1st January 2016
quotequote all
Hi Aide

Which series tilton are you using, how are you going to mount it in the bell housing ?

Edited by Gray_101 on Friday 1st January 17:43

ukkid35

6,169 posts

173 months

Friday 1st January 2016
quotequote all
CerbWill has done all the heavy lifting

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...

I'm slightly concerned about the difficulty of fitting the gearbox with the Tilton as shown, but if it works then that seems like a price worth paying.

aide

Original Poster:

2,276 posts

164 months

Friday 1st January 2016
quotequote all
Yep, CerbWill helped, he emailed me some specific details:
Parts from Competition Supplies
Tilton 60-6000 slave cylinder (52mm diameter radiused contact bearing)
Tilton 61-628 threaded mounting sleeve

aide

Original Poster:

2,276 posts

164 months

Friday 1st January 2016
quotequote all
More of the strip down done today..

Up on axle stands..


Pretty level, slightly high at the rear..


Chassis plate..


Exhaust..


Heat shield..
l

Prop shaft..


Started to remove the headers..

Jhonno

5,765 posts

141 months

Friday 1st January 2016
quotequote all
Nice one Aide! Glad it is the Cerb's turn now.. One of the best getting better!

aide

Original Poster:

2,276 posts

164 months

Friday 1st January 2016
quotequote all
Jhonno said:
Nice one Aide! Glad it is the Cerb's turn now.. One of the best getting better!
Cheers Dan, I'll be using your injector cleaning guys next week smile

aide

Original Poster:

2,276 posts

164 months

Friday 1st January 2016
quotequote all
Can someone let me know:

-o- if I need to remove the water rail to get the headers off?
-o- and when putting the headers back on, how do I torque the lower rear bolts?

I have crows feet sockets but can't fathom how to go about tightening the header bolts correctly once I get to reassembling everything!

GT6k

858 posts

162 months

Friday 1st January 2016
quotequote all
Yes water rails have to come off, you can get the passenger side manifold off with the rail in situ but both rails have to come off to get the drivers side out. Refitting is slightly more difficult than removing so water rails have to be off to refit. The passenger side manifild was relatively easy but the drivers side is an absolute b*%*£8*r.

I have an instruction set somewhere i will try to dig out.

Jhonno

5,765 posts

141 months

Friday 1st January 2016
quotequote all
I didn't remove my water rails to get my manifolds off..

Jhonno

5,765 posts

141 months

Friday 1st January 2016
quotequote all
The manifold bolts are a Git.. I did them by feel and they have been fine!

NilsP

389 posts

117 months

Friday 1st January 2016
quotequote all
Aide,

How much were you quoted for the zircotec coating, if you don't mind me asking?
I've been wanting to do it for a while now. Just not to keen on removing the manifolds again biggrin

aide

Original Poster:

2,276 posts

164 months

Friday 1st January 2016
quotequote all
Cheers Ian, Cheers Dan, any insight is appreciated.

Nils, I think the quote I got from Zircotech is in my work email, will let you know on Monday.

I'll probably get the water rails and decats done as well.

Might get the rocker heads done too, but am a little reluctant to take them off tbh..

Jhonno

5,765 posts

141 months

Saturday 2nd January 2016
quotequote all
A U/J and wobble bar is handy to get at the manifold bolts.

I'd get the box off first as it makes getting the manifolds off easier..

aide

Original Poster:

2,276 posts

164 months

Saturday 2nd January 2016
quotequote all
Thanks Dan,

Will dump the coolant, strip off the water rail and see if I can get the manifolds off with the gearbox in situ.

It'll be easier to get the modded bellhousing back on without the headers in the way, so the headers need to come off first..

Should have it all stripped down today... (If I stop arseing around with a camera!)

Aide

Gray_101

1,118 posts

190 months

Saturday 2nd January 2016
quotequote all
I spent most of last night looking at Cerbwill s post and recreated the job in my head as I've not got a Cerb in bits to look at at the moment, and it looks a good solution to the slave cylinder problems

But how does the Tilton mounting coller secure to the input bearing case on the gear box ? ... I would have thought a better solution would be to mount the tilton in the bell housing and not on the front of the gear box

Edited by Gray_101 on Saturday 2nd January 10:35

harry henderson

358 posts

108 months

Saturday 2nd January 2016
quotequote all
For a minute there I thought my car was in your garage.


aide

Original Poster:

2,276 posts

164 months

Saturday 2nd January 2016
quotequote all
Gray_101 said:
I spent most of last night looking at Cerbwill s post and recreated the job in my head as I've not got a Cerb in bits to look at at the moment, and it looks a good solution to the slave cylinder problems

But how does the Tilton mounting coller secure to the input bearing case on the gear box ? ... I would have thought a better solution would be to mount the tilton in the bell housing and not on the front of the gear box

Edited by Gray_101 on Saturday 2nd January 10:35
I believe this collar and slave are designed for the T5.
The slave is secured to the spigot housing on the gearbox.
Will mentioned that he had to tap a hole for the retaining bolt.
This 3min YouTube video from Tilton is pretty good.

aide

Original Poster:

2,276 posts

164 months

Saturday 2nd January 2016
quotequote all
harry henderson said:
For a minute there I thought my car was in your garage.
That's beautiful, Ocean Haze? Pretty Rare!
If you contact the ex TVR guy Nemasis on here he can tell you all about your car, he has all the records of every Cerbera that left the factory. Although he hasn't posted in a good while.
Spiders make an unbelievable difference to the car.

CerbWill

670 posts

118 months

Saturday 2nd January 2016
quotequote all
Gray_101 said:
I spent most of last night looking at Cerbwill s post and recreated the job in my head as I've not got a Cerb in bits to look at at the moment, and it looks a good solution to the slave cylinder problems

But how does the Tilton mounting coller secure to the input bearing case on the gear box ? ... I would have thought a better solution would be to mount the tilton in the bell housing and not on the front of the gear box

Edited by Gray_101 on Saturday 2nd January 10:35
There is an o-ring on the inside of the threaded collar to keep it in place at the base of the input shaft retainer. The anti-rotation bolt is there to stop the slave cylinder spinning round when its pushing on the clutch fingers. If you trimmed the bolt down it would also prevent the slave moving forwards/backwards along the shaft. As Tilton developed the slave and collar for the T5 gearbox I trust their judgement that it'll stay in place. Ultimately a drop-in replacement for the standard/RP design would be good, but all the other Tilton slave cylinders would require modification of the bellhousing thats beyond the average DIYer.