Toyota MR2 Mk3 advice
Discussion
I've pretty much 99% decided my next car is going to be one of these. I would have liked an Elise, but with me moving house I don't need the extra expense / debt, and I've already had 2 Mk1 MX5s so I fancy a change.
I have a few queries before I start looking properly.
I am aware that pre-facelift (2003) models had dodgy engines / cats, so I will be going for one of those (unless I am certain I want to do an engine swap, more on that later).
I am also aware that the crossmember (I assume thats the brace that crosses over the engine?) can go rusty. How concerned should I be about this, what sort of price to rectify? Speaking of rust, what are these cars like generally? The MX5 is horrendous for it, I found out the hard way once.
Other than that, I am struggling to identify any potential weaknesses so I want to know if there is anything else I should be looking out for?
Also, what sort of mileage are the engines good for? There are quite a few for under £2k but many of them are well over 100,000 miles.
Lets talk about the 2ZZ for a moment. I'm not completely opposed to getting a 2ZZ swap but I'd want to determine early on whether I really want to do this because it would ultimately determine how much I'd pay for the car in the first place - i.e. I'd pay around £3k for a good MR2 IF i wasn't planning to swap the engine; otherwise, I'd be looking to pay a lot less.
My overall feeling is that with a couple of mods (exhaust, intake) for extra noise, I could maybe be quite happy with the 1ZZ engine? I've had a few VTEC engined cars now and although they are fun, I am conscious that they need to be driven hard (anti-socially) to get the best out of them, so I'm unsure if I'd want an engine with those characteristics again, and considering the extra expense to get it there... and having watched a few videos of 1ZZ engined cars, they seem quite happy to be thrashed relentlessly without necessarily needing to be. Realistically I'm used to ~ 130 bhp in other cars I've had and found it enough to enjoy on the roads.
Modifications wise - as I've already said, I would definitely want to make it sound better - I drove one many years ago and remember thinking it was a bit quiet and dare I say it, dull as standard - I am coming from a straight 6 beemer so I need some form of treat for the ears.
What about lowering springs? I've seen some on lowered springs and they do look a fair bit better but does it spoil the ride and handling? Finally, what other recommended mods can I make to improve handling or tighten things up.
A lot of questions here I appreciate but I just want to know what I'm getting into before I start looking
I have a few queries before I start looking properly.
I am aware that pre-facelift (2003) models had dodgy engines / cats, so I will be going for one of those (unless I am certain I want to do an engine swap, more on that later).
I am also aware that the crossmember (I assume thats the brace that crosses over the engine?) can go rusty. How concerned should I be about this, what sort of price to rectify? Speaking of rust, what are these cars like generally? The MX5 is horrendous for it, I found out the hard way once.
Other than that, I am struggling to identify any potential weaknesses so I want to know if there is anything else I should be looking out for?
Also, what sort of mileage are the engines good for? There are quite a few for under £2k but many of them are well over 100,000 miles.
Lets talk about the 2ZZ for a moment. I'm not completely opposed to getting a 2ZZ swap but I'd want to determine early on whether I really want to do this because it would ultimately determine how much I'd pay for the car in the first place - i.e. I'd pay around £3k for a good MR2 IF i wasn't planning to swap the engine; otherwise, I'd be looking to pay a lot less.
My overall feeling is that with a couple of mods (exhaust, intake) for extra noise, I could maybe be quite happy with the 1ZZ engine? I've had a few VTEC engined cars now and although they are fun, I am conscious that they need to be driven hard (anti-socially) to get the best out of them, so I'm unsure if I'd want an engine with those characteristics again, and considering the extra expense to get it there... and having watched a few videos of 1ZZ engined cars, they seem quite happy to be thrashed relentlessly without necessarily needing to be. Realistically I'm used to ~ 130 bhp in other cars I've had and found it enough to enjoy on the roads.
Modifications wise - as I've already said, I would definitely want to make it sound better - I drove one many years ago and remember thinking it was a bit quiet and dare I say it, dull as standard - I am coming from a straight 6 beemer so I need some form of treat for the ears.
What about lowering springs? I've seen some on lowered springs and they do look a fair bit better but does it spoil the ride and handling? Finally, what other recommended mods can I make to improve handling or tighten things up.
A lot of questions here I appreciate but I just want to know what I'm getting into before I start looking
Edited by TameRacingDriver on Wednesday 7th December 13:00
pm me if you want, but basically i've already done similar with my 2003 FL car. i got it for a steal 1700 quid with hardtop, 103k miles. it had fsh. its now on 106k and has been thrashed non stop on trackdays and on the derbyshire roads. its a proper fun drivers car. you can live with the 140bhp on the road, its only on power circuits (silverstone etc) where the lack of power is noticeable.
mods
matt under chassis brace 120 quid
front strut brace second hand 50 quid or so
decat manifold 80 quid
cobra exhaust 2nd hand (think it was 200 quid or similar plus 100 quid fitting as the hangers were all wrong)
tein shocks/springs (as new second hand) 300 quid
full chassis alignment 120 quid.
smaller momo wheel 50 quid ebay
discs and pads 54 quid front Eurocar parts (standard are fine)
cheap as chips to insure and run (170 quid for 3k mile policy)
its extremely well balanced and is a hoot to drive.
stuff to watch for
rear subframe- rotten as a pear on some cars, ie total mot failure and chance of lower arm coming adrift. you will need to remove the plastic under tray at the rear and look under every part of the sub, its pretty obvious if shot tho. mine is perfect, so its hit or miss if corrosion started and the owner didnt bother sorting it at first. 3-400 quid for a new subframe
oil consumption- they all burn a bit of oil. some people are too lazy to top up and check.
thats it. panels are all bolt on if you bend it, no welding required. great cars.
mods
matt under chassis brace 120 quid
front strut brace second hand 50 quid or so
decat manifold 80 quid
cobra exhaust 2nd hand (think it was 200 quid or similar plus 100 quid fitting as the hangers were all wrong)
tein shocks/springs (as new second hand) 300 quid
full chassis alignment 120 quid.
smaller momo wheel 50 quid ebay
discs and pads 54 quid front Eurocar parts (standard are fine)
cheap as chips to insure and run (170 quid for 3k mile policy)
its extremely well balanced and is a hoot to drive.
stuff to watch for
rear subframe- rotten as a pear on some cars, ie total mot failure and chance of lower arm coming adrift. you will need to remove the plastic under tray at the rear and look under every part of the sub, its pretty obvious if shot tho. mine is perfect, so its hit or miss if corrosion started and the owner didnt bother sorting it at first. 3-400 quid for a new subframe
oil consumption- they all burn a bit of oil. some people are too lazy to top up and check.
thats it. panels are all bolt on if you bend it, no welding required. great cars.
I had a 2003 one for a little while, absolutely loved it, was so much fun to drive. Mine had a few little issues that seemed common..
Faded headlights
Leaking rear lights
Corroded alloys
Worn drivers seat where the seatbelt rubs
Cracked fog light
Coolant level had a mind of its own
The roof didn't sit quite right when down
Most of these were easily sorted though so I wouldn't be put off if you found one with similar issues. Mine also the TTE twin exhaust which sounded great, I drove a few beforehand with the standard single peashooter and there was no comparison, I'll get another one day and I wouldn't buy one without the twin exhaust.
Faded headlights
Leaking rear lights
Corroded alloys
Worn drivers seat where the seatbelt rubs
Cracked fog light
Coolant level had a mind of its own
The roof didn't sit quite right when down
Most of these were easily sorted though so I wouldn't be put off if you found one with similar issues. Mine also the TTE twin exhaust which sounded great, I drove a few beforehand with the standard single peashooter and there was no comparison, I'll get another one day and I wouldn't buy one without the twin exhaust.
Cheers
I'd definitely be looking to improve the exhaust. Anyone bothered with an induction kit? Will the car pass MOT with a decat manifold fitted or it would it have to be re-fitted (or visit a friendly MOT guy), and what difference does it make.
Re-assuring reading the cost of parts after having a few rather expensive cars in the past.
They do seem to make a lot of sense as a great drivers car on the cheap. These seem cheaper than MX5s these days for the age / condition. I'm pretty sure the power will be enough. I would very rarely track it anyway - although with having a light car with cheap consumables might actually tempt me to track more often!
I'd definitely be looking to improve the exhaust. Anyone bothered with an induction kit? Will the car pass MOT with a decat manifold fitted or it would it have to be re-fitted (or visit a friendly MOT guy), and what difference does it make.
Re-assuring reading the cost of parts after having a few rather expensive cars in the past.
They do seem to make a lot of sense as a great drivers car on the cheap. These seem cheaper than MX5s these days for the age / condition. I'm pretty sure the power will be enough. I would very rarely track it anyway - although with having a light car with cheap consumables might actually tempt me to track more often!
TameRacingDriver said:
Cheers
I'd definitely be looking to improve the exhaust. Anyone bothered with an induction kit? Will the car pass MOT with a decat manifold fitted or it would it have to be re-fitted (or visit a friendly MOT guy), and what difference does it make.
Re-assuring reading the cost of parts after having a few rather expensive cars in the past.
They do seem to make a lot of sense as a great drivers car on the cheap. These seem cheaper than MX5s these days for the age / condition. I'm pretty sure the power will be enough. I would very rarely track it anyway - although with having a light car with cheap consumables might actually tempt me to track more often!
forgot to add, changed all the anti roll bar drop links, youll need a grinder to lop em off as the nuts rust solid but this cures any front end clonks etc and tightens it all up. 90 odd quid for 4. (ECP or ebay)I'd definitely be looking to improve the exhaust. Anyone bothered with an induction kit? Will the car pass MOT with a decat manifold fitted or it would it have to be re-fitted (or visit a friendly MOT guy), and what difference does it make.
Re-assuring reading the cost of parts after having a few rather expensive cars in the past.
They do seem to make a lot of sense as a great drivers car on the cheap. These seem cheaper than MX5s these days for the age / condition. I'm pretty sure the power will be enough. I would very rarely track it anyway - although with having a light car with cheap consumables might actually tempt me to track more often!
flies through MOT with the readily available de cat manifolds as there is a 3rd larger CAT downstream of the manifold pair. you can also smash the guts out of the std manifold cats if you prefer the cheap (brutal) option.
the downpipe to cat studs are a barstard to get undone.
After 2 NB MX5s I decided to try the MR2 Roadster.
Its faster than my 2.5 Sport and about the same as my NB RS ( Lighter, better final drive).
Loads better on fuel, on my commute the mx5 would do 29-32, this hasnt dropped below 35 yet. 1500 miles round Scotland with quite a bit of ton up gave mid to low 40s !
Its a nicer place to sit if your tall and more refined.
Brakes are superb.
The lack of boot can be annoying, but it took 2 of us away to Scotland and you know how much rubbish women take with them.
Its different handling to the MX5, I dont currently have great tyres but on back roads the MX5 feels safer, due to the layout. You can go 9 tenths alot easier in a MX5.
They go sideways very well, can hit the lock stops if you have a good play.
Gear ratios could be better, with MX5 ratios it would be quite a bit quicker, 1st and 2nd are good, but 3rd goes to 95 and 4th is close to 130...5th and 6th are nice overdrives...cruises very well though.
Scratch that itch. They are cheap at the moment....
Its faster than my 2.5 Sport and about the same as my NB RS ( Lighter, better final drive).
Loads better on fuel, on my commute the mx5 would do 29-32, this hasnt dropped below 35 yet. 1500 miles round Scotland with quite a bit of ton up gave mid to low 40s !
Its a nicer place to sit if your tall and more refined.
Brakes are superb.
The lack of boot can be annoying, but it took 2 of us away to Scotland and you know how much rubbish women take with them.
Its different handling to the MX5, I dont currently have great tyres but on back roads the MX5 feels safer, due to the layout. You can go 9 tenths alot easier in a MX5.
They go sideways very well, can hit the lock stops if you have a good play.
Gear ratios could be better, with MX5 ratios it would be quite a bit quicker, 1st and 2nd are good, but 3rd goes to 95 and 4th is close to 130...5th and 6th are nice overdrives...cruises very well though.
Scratch that itch. They are cheap at the moment....
TameRacingDriver said:
Cheers
I'd definitely be looking to improve the exhaust. Anyone bothered with an induction kit?
I wouldn't bother with an exhaust personally as I'm not keen on overly loud four bangers, and to be honest the car doesn't have the firepower to warrant the extra noise in 1zz trim.I'd definitely be looking to improve the exhaust. Anyone bothered with an induction kit?
I toyed with the idea of an induction kit, but decided to try the time honoured drilled airbox mod first and haven't looked back.
No doubt someone on here will claim it's a bit council - but the holes are only on the cool side of the engine bay so less likely to heat soak than an open cone induction kit, plus you wont have oil from the filter killing the MAF (like K&N nearly always do). Drilled airbox sounds great considering it was a free mod - there's a noticeable induction roar, but only when you floor it.
Overall it's a very fun daily beater.
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