Intermittent starting issues
Discussion
Got an odd problem with a 1098 engine. Been going on a while this and the last ride has really left me scratching my head as it ruled out battery/rectifier/battery. Here's what happened:
Bike was left on charge Sunday evening for a ride Monday. Check the voltage the next morning, 12.5v, and it starts up fine - first time, also check the voltage when it's running 14.5v across the battery terminals. I ride the half hour to a friends, and turn the engine off when I get there.
Coming to leave (20 minutes later) and it turns over, but pretty enthusiastically. Check the dash and I've got 11.4v, so the charge has gone. Somehow. We use a booter pack to start her up and I ride home with no problems. 14.5v on dash readout.
When I get home, I turn the engine off, and try to start it again expecting failure but it works perfectly?? 6 times in a row. Battery reads 12.5v off, or 14.5 when running. It's seemingly fixed itself.
The Battery is 6 months old, and I've replaced the Rec/reg with an aftermarket version (2nd hand). Alternator clearly works as it charged up on the way back - so where's the problem? Dodgy connector? Intermittently failing rec/reg, battery or Alternator.
Anyone had a similar issue? Don't know where to go next.
Bike was left on charge Sunday evening for a ride Monday. Check the voltage the next morning, 12.5v, and it starts up fine - first time, also check the voltage when it's running 14.5v across the battery terminals. I ride the half hour to a friends, and turn the engine off when I get there.
Coming to leave (20 minutes later) and it turns over, but pretty enthusiastically. Check the dash and I've got 11.4v, so the charge has gone. Somehow. We use a booter pack to start her up and I ride home with no problems. 14.5v on dash readout.
When I get home, I turn the engine off, and try to start it again expecting failure but it works perfectly?? 6 times in a row. Battery reads 12.5v off, or 14.5 when running. It's seemingly fixed itself.
The Battery is 6 months old, and I've replaced the Rec/reg with an aftermarket version (2nd hand). Alternator clearly works as it charged up on the way back - so where's the problem? Dodgy connector? Intermittently failing rec/reg, battery or Alternator.
Anyone had a similar issue? Don't know where to go next.
Check the reg/received multi plug connection. Possibly a bit rough or corroded.
If you can, start it up and check the voltage across the stator outputs on the yellow wires. Might be a failing stator winding if the reg/rec connection is OK.
Or the regulator is beginning to fail but they tend to work and then don't.
If you can, start it up and check the voltage across the stator outputs on the yellow wires. Might be a failing stator winding if the reg/rec connection is OK.
Or the regulator is beginning to fail but they tend to work and then don't.
Have you tried a new battery yet?
The fact that a jumpstart cured the problem would indicate that the battery is suspect - because you effectively used someone elses battery and it worked.
By all means check the plugs etc but a stator problem or a dodgy regulator or problem with a connection from the regulator normally manifests in a lack of measurable volts/too much volts when the engine is running and wont really show up when you're trying to start the bike (as the stator and regulator arent doing much on start up!).
When batteries break down they can leave a layer "shedding" at the bottom of the battery, this can short a cell (1 of 6)and can lead to a low volts output from the battery. A jump start will get around this problem to get the bike started, and a few left and right turns might move the shedding material in the cell sufficiently to remove the short from the cell and the battery will then work as normal.
http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/corrosi...
The fact that a jumpstart cured the problem would indicate that the battery is suspect - because you effectively used someone elses battery and it worked.
By all means check the plugs etc but a stator problem or a dodgy regulator or problem with a connection from the regulator normally manifests in a lack of measurable volts/too much volts when the engine is running and wont really show up when you're trying to start the bike (as the stator and regulator arent doing much on start up!).
When batteries break down they can leave a layer "shedding" at the bottom of the battery, this can short a cell (1 of 6)and can lead to a low volts output from the battery. A jump start will get around this problem to get the bike started, and a few left and right turns might move the shedding material in the cell sufficiently to remove the short from the cell and the battery will then work as normal.
http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/corrosi...
Right, was hoping to sort this all over the weekend, but life presented other plans, hence the lack of replies.
I'll let you know what I find. Thanks for the help!
Steve Bass said:
Check the reg/received multi plug connection. Possibly a bit rough or corroded.
If you can, start it up and check the voltage across the stator outputs on the yellow wires. Might be a failing stator winding if the reg/rec connection is OK.
Or the regulator is beginning to fail but they tend to work and then don't.
Always forget that my multi meter had AC too. Presumably check the voltage across all three pairs, looking for consistent voltage over all three? I'll do this as soon as I'm home from work. If you can, start it up and check the voltage across the stator outputs on the yellow wires. Might be a failing stator winding if the reg/rec connection is OK.
Or the regulator is beginning to fail but they tend to work and then don't.
Moulder said:
Could something have been drawing power whilst it was stopped at your friends house, e.g. Left in park (if it has that). That would explain why it would start again when you got back as the battery had been charged back up on the way home.
Unlikely - I was stopped less than 20 minutes and left the ignition off. All the same I'll check the current draw with the ignition off. Sure it must use a little...hman said:
Have you tried a new battery yet?
The fact that a jumpstart cured the problem would indicate that the battery is suspect - because you effectively used someone elses battery and it worked.
By all means check the plugs etc but a stator problem or a dodgy regulator or problem with a connection from the regulator normally manifests in a lack of measurable volts/too much volts when the engine is running and wont really show up when you're trying to start the bike (as the stator and regulator arent doing much on start up!).
When batteries break down they can leave a layer "shedding" at the bottom of the battery, this can short a cell (1 of 6)and can lead to a low volts output from the battery. A jump start will get around this problem to get the bike started, and a few left and right turns might move the shedding material in the cell sufficiently to remove the short from the cell and the battery will then work as normal.
http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/corrosi...
It does have a newish battery fitted (about a year old, motobatt I think). Have recently learned that the plates can Sulpher-up if its left on a low charge. I think it went 8 weeks max. without a recharge over the winter, so have a hard time believing it could be this. But, never say never. Could be a draw when turned off... The fact that a jumpstart cured the problem would indicate that the battery is suspect - because you effectively used someone elses battery and it worked.
By all means check the plugs etc but a stator problem or a dodgy regulator or problem with a connection from the regulator normally manifests in a lack of measurable volts/too much volts when the engine is running and wont really show up when you're trying to start the bike (as the stator and regulator arent doing much on start up!).
When batteries break down they can leave a layer "shedding" at the bottom of the battery, this can short a cell (1 of 6)and can lead to a low volts output from the battery. A jump start will get around this problem to get the bike started, and a few left and right turns might move the shedding material in the cell sufficiently to remove the short from the cell and the battery will then work as normal.
http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/corrosi...
I'll let you know what I find. Thanks for the help!
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