Cayman GTS

[monamimate]

Ozzie Osmond said:

Cblair246 said:

PDK box might seem a bit on the slow side.

A PDK will still blitz an equivalent manual Porsche any day of the week. The manual is for driver involvement, not for speed. The stuff about gear ratios on the manual is in my experience complete twaddle. Brilliant real-world performance.

Let's face it, by modern standards no Boxster/Cayman is ever going to be "fast". Simply not enough engine.

Normally pretty much in agreement with Ozzie, but not on this one.

Driving in the mountains, I'm often amazed how long I can just stay in 2nd gear for long stretches of nice winding roads.

Nothing wrong with that in itself, but with the gearbox being so nice to use, and so many other unused gears available, I just think there'd be more fun to be had with shorter gears allowing more human intervention.

Again, it's not a pure performance thing -nothing wrong there - it's more the subjective enjoyment factor that shorter ratios would bring.

[eggy41]

Thanks all

[bcr5784]

monamimate said:

Normally pretty much in agreement with Ozzie, but not on this one.

Driving in the mountains, I'm often amazed how long I can just stay in 2nd gear for long stretches of nice winding roads.

Nothing wrong with that in itself, but with the gearbox being so nice to use, and so many other unused gears available, I just think there'd be more fun to be had with shorter gears allowing more human intervention.

Again, it's not a pure performance thing -nothing wrong there - it's more the subjective enjoyment factor that shorter ratios would bring.

I'd take a slightly different tack. As has said the fact is, if you want to get a move on, but stay out of license losing country, you'll be stuck in 2nd a lot of the time and rarely see 4th in a manual.

For me the issue is compounded by the shape of the torque curve with its dip between 3000 and 4000 rpm. The result is that the car (especially the 2.7 ) is a bit of an all or nothing car. It's perfectly happy toodling around with the revs below 3000 or so, and feels reasonably torquey if you are in no particular hurry, and it's also fine if you change up at 6000+ when you are on it - but between those extremes it can be a bit frustrating. If you are just driving at 70-80% changing up at (say) below 5000 revs each gearchange drops you into the hole in the torque curve.

The 3.4 handles that middle ground better and the lower gearing of PDK masks the issue further (but doesn't completely resolve it).

[RBT0]

Gents, apologies if this is going to be a bit weird.

What's the best procedure to fill in tyres?

I had the car (CGTS x73) sat in the garage for 2 weeks and yesterday I noticed a pressure drop, it was 2.0/2.1 cold, then up to 2.3/2.4 when warm, vs 2.4/2.5 cold from new (almost 1 year ago)

I would fill in but with care to avoid non sense of warning lights on my dash.

Any advise? Just plug and top the pressure up? Use the fill info display, how?

Anyway no warnings so far, although the pressure drop.

[Mario149]

Go to petrol station nearby so tyres don't heat up. 2.3 bar all round when cold. If you want a slightly softer ride the manual says you can put down to 2 bar in but your fuel consumption will suffer a little

[RBT0]

That was my plan. But I was more for 2.4 bar all around.

[981C]

Mario149 said:

Go to petrol station nearby so tyres don't heat up. 2.3 bar all round when cold. If you want a slightly softer ride the manual says you can put down to 2 bar in but your fuel consumption will suffer a little

Please note the quoted inflation pressures are 33PSI at 20C. From experience, at 10C they probably only require 31PSI and 29PSI at 0C.

I always change the pressure from Bar to PSI so you can see the delta more accurately.

[RBT0]

To my understanding, as at the moment it is 10-15 C, there is no reason why last year, same temperature, pressure was 2.3/2.4 cold apart from a normal pressure drop (aftern summer).

[Mario149]

981C said:

Mario149 said:

Go to petrol station nearby so tyres don't heat up. 2.3 bar all round when cold. If you want a slightly softer ride the manual says you can put down to 2 bar in but your fuel consumption will suffer a little

Please note the quoted inflation pressures are 33PSI at 20C. From experience, at 10C they probably only require 31PSI and 29PSI at 0C.

I don't think temp has anything to do with it personally. If your tyres perform best at 2.3 bar (or really, 2.3 bar + the extra pressure you get when they warm up during use) that's what you want in them. It means that if you put 2.3 bar in them one day and it dropped 10 degs the next, the pressure in them would drop and be too low and you'd need to top them up. Equally if the temp went up, you'd need to let some air out.

If you scaled the pressure you put in them up and down with outside temp, you'd end up at ridiculous and dangerous extremes if you lived in UAE in summer or Norway in winter!

981C said:

I always change the pressure from Bar to PSI so you can see the delta more accurately.

Although given that ze Chermans work in metric, 2.3 bar is probably more accurate than 33 psi!

Edited by Mario149 on Tuesday 17th November 11:58

[Mario149]

Extra info in case it's useful to anyone: I find that in normal driving my pressures go up by about 0.3 bar when the tyres have warmed. On track I've seen double that from memory, so I normally (and this doesn't just apply to my Boxster) drop pressures by about 0.3 bar before going on track, get them hot, see where there at, then tweak them depending on how the car feels.

[981C]

Mario149 said:

I don't think temp has anything to do with it personally. If your tyres perform best at 2.3 bar (or really, 2.3 bar + the extra pressure you get when they warm up during use) that's what you want in them. It means that if you put 2.3 bar in them one day and it dropped 10 degs the next, the pressure in them would drop and be too low and you'd need to top them up. Equally if the temp went up, you'd need to let some air out.

If you scaled the pressure you put in them up and down with outside temp, you'd end up at ridiculous and dangerous extremes if you lived in UAE in summer or Norway in winter!

It's not outside temp, but temp of air in your tyre!

It is valid as it's your datum - the recommendation is 2.3/33 at 20C. If you inflate to 2.3/33 or 2.4/35 at 10C then you'll be up at 38 PSI when the tyres are hot! I would imagine (but may be wrong) that the tyres have an operating window of temp/pressure, so if you start at the wrong pressure you'll be over or under-inflated at some point.

My reference to using PSI was because the car displays more detail, i.e. 2.3 bar vs 33.3 PSI.

[Mario149]

981C said:

It's not outside temp, but temp of air in your tyre!

It is valid as it's your datum - the recommendation is 2.3/33 at 20C. If you inflate to 2.3/33 or 2.4/35 at 10C then you'll be up at 38 PSI when the tyres are hot! I would imagine (but may be wrong) that the tyres have an operating window of temp/pressure, so if you start at the wrong pressure you'll be over or under-inflated at some point.

My reference to using PSI was because the car displays more detail, i.e. 2.3 bar vs 33.3 PSI.

I see what you're saying and I think we may be saying the same thing but badly....

To clarify, my experience is that the final temp (and so also pressure) of the air inside the tyres when they're warmed as much as they're going to while driving is largely dependent on the outside temp so long as you don't go to extremes i.e. your tyres heat up by about the same amount and increase in pressure about the same amount from their starting values, so cold starting pressure will affect final pressure. Let's say this increase is 0.3 bar just as an example. And let's say that for the correct shape of the tyre on the road to get grip (i.e. not over or under inflated) while driving, you'll always need the same pressure, call it 2.6 bar. Sooo.....

At 20 degs outside
Set the cold start pressure to 2.3 bar, leading to warm running pressure = 2.6 bar --> all hunky dory

At 5 degs outside
Set the cold start pressure (by adding more air compared to at 20 degs) to 2.3 bar, leading to warm running pressure = 2.6 bar --> all hunky dory

But....at 5 degs outside
If set the cold start pressure to 2.0 bar (say by not adding air since the previous week when it was summery ), leading to warm running pressure = 2.3 bar --> pressure is low.

And....at 35 degs outside
If set the cold start pressure to 2.6 bar (say by not letting out air since the previous week when it was less summery ), leading to warm running pressure = 2.9 bar --> pressure is high.

Clearly it's not quite as simple as that, but maintaining the same cold starting pressure what ever the outside temp makes sense to me so long as you're not switching between winter and summer tyres. In fact if anything, when it's cold outside, I think you might want to start off with a slightly *higher* pressure in the tyres as they will probably have more trouble getting up to suitable running temp and pressure due to the additional cooling from the colder air.

Only way to do it properly I guess it to make a note of your warm running tyre pressure at 20 degs when starting at 2.3 bar, and then when the ambient temp is colder or hotter, vary the starting cold pressures to see what gives you the same warm running pressure you had at 20 degs

[981C]

Sort of agree, but from experience, I've observed:

29PSI at 5C (garaged)
33PSI at 20C (garaged)
36PSI after driving the car up to operating temperature.

Before I investigated the pressure vs. temp variation, I inflated my tyres to 2.3 all round when the car had been sitting outside all night. Tyre temp was around 7C. By mid afternoon they were reading 2.5 Bar and after some driving 2.7.

[tyrrell]

Getting excited now car ready for Saturday morning delivery

[CGTS16]

I have been closely following this post since March and think I have now read through every page at least 3 times, getting more and more excited by the prospect of getting my own Cayman GTS. Although I've been lurking for ages, this is my first post so be gentle....

I put my deposit down with Bournemouth in May with a view to getting the new car in March 2016, when my 320d M Sport company car goes back. I was getting increasingly concerned that I had missed the boat with the 981.1 GTS and would have to wait for the 981.2 with the forthcoming 4 cylinder turbo. However, I'm pleased to say Bournemouth have done me proud and have secured an end of February build slot for my GTS with a view to me collecting it mid-March. SO EXCITED!!

I went to the showroom on Saturday and have finalised my spec, which has been done mostly from the research on this post (thank you for all your contributions and knowledge!) and from driving a CGTS at the PEC in August: PGSYYKN3

One question I do have which I'm hoping you can help me with is detailing as I've never had a car detailed before but this is going to be my pride and joy so I want it to be protected properly by a professional, preferably before delivery.

Has anyone used a detailer that they would recommend that would travel to Bournemouth Porsche and carry out the detailing before I take delivery? One I have found so far is First Choice Detailing but I have nothing to compare it to. First Choice will do the work at Porsche and charge £899 for a full Gtechniq Crystal Serum with EXO coating along with glass, wheels and leather protection. This is RRP before I negotiate anything but is this market rate and are there any better alternatives?

Thanks for your help and happy to be a member of the club. Roll on March!!

[CGTS16]

tyrrell said:

Getting excited now car ready for Saturday morning delivery

WOOHOO! Get lots of pictures for us to drool over. What spec did you go for?

[Dreds]

CGTS16, I used Chris Cooke from Summit Detailing ( http://www.summit-detailing.co.uk/ ) to detail my new car 2 years ago. He came to the Salisbury area so I don't think they would mind a further 30 minutes travel. He did a fantastic job on my white car which has still got a pretty good shine today.

[Boggle73]

I have always had cars detailed, but I have only ever owned second hand cars. The difference has been dramatic after a full detail.
The aim with a new car would be to protect your pride and Joy, and I will be doing this with mine when it arrives.
I have always used Russell Briggs @ Reflectology in Sheffield, really knows his stuff and a top bloke to boot. I think his main product is Siramik, a hard wearing coating. I never had any issues with it, and it always looked smart after a good clean.
I think Russ does travel, but not sure on his rates.
Only my 2p, but I would get it protected. It only takes one little bit of grit in a sponge to make a real big mess.

Good luck with your purchase, it's been a long wait for a few of us.

Jay.

[tyrrell]

[quote=CGTS16]

WOOHOO! Get lots of pictures for us to drool over. What spec did you go for?[/quote

Racing Yellow paintwork
Black hood
Black leather interior with alcantara
Roll over bars in Yellow
Bi-Xenon- headlights inc. Porsche System Plus (PDLS+) with dynamic high beam
Park assist front & rear
Electric folding door mirrors
Porsche Torque Vectoring (PTV) incl. mechanically locking rear differential
PDK
Sport Chassis 20 mm lower
20-inch Sport Techno Wheels
Wheels painted partially black
Seat heating
Two- Zone climate control
Smoking package
Light design package
Racing Yellow sport chrono stopwatch instrument dial
Interior painted package in Racing Yellow
Sport seats 2 way plus
Racing Yellow instrument dials
Racing Yellow seat belts
Centre console trim painted Racing Yellow
Storage compartment lid in Alcantara with Porsche crest
Sound package plus
Mobile phone prep
Porsche Communication management (PCM) including navigation module

[tyrrell]

I pick up my car this Saturday from OPC Bournemouth, on Monday its off to Eclusive Car Detail, for a full detail along with the fitting of Suntek paint protection film to the front bumper, full bonnet, rocker panels and wing mirrors, the car will be gone for four days, to allow all the gtech products along with paint protection film to dry out properly before driving again. You should check out his web site his attention to detail is second to none.