GT4 or modded Cayman R

GT4 or modded Cayman R

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fioran0

2,410 posts

172 months

Tuesday 27th January 2015
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So back to that engine....

It was an interesting thing running that engine after it was built. The experience gives me some pause over the upcoming GT4 and also undeniably informs at least some of my view on modifying modern normally aspirated Porsche cars.

The relationship between a car and its engine is ultimately much more complex than I think many consider and extends far beyond cubic capacity and available power. On paper numbers dont really tell one much unfortunately.
That engine had everything done correctly and without question was significantly more powerful, more athletic, sharper and more robust than it was before and yet…although the engine made the car significantly faster, it felt like driving a turbo diesel car in terms of power delivery for want of a better description. Gone was the nimbleness of drive completely.

It is a strange one to try and explain clearly and concisely so instead I will try to make my point with two graphs.
These graphs are what seem to be called “thrust curve” overlays in the car world. Its essentially a graph showing maximum force available at any given speed. Force = mass x acceleration, therefore Acceleration = Force/mass. As a result this graph can be used to show how much acceleration a car will have and to compare acceleration potential between cars (assuming no significant mass difference and assuming both have reasonably similar drag coefficients).
It is a useful tool to look at as a means to explain what happens when driving an engine that cannot be had from looking at headline figures or a dyno sheet. A dyno after all tells you nothing about the time it took to go from 2000 rpm to 6000 rpm. Only that it did so and what power it made along the way. I am going to use them here to try to illustrate what would take a long time to type.

That M9X engine on paper, with nearly 400HP and a touch over 320 lb ft of torque at the wheels was only a smidgen below the numbers at the wheel that I have for a 3.8 GT3 engine. I have a dyno for a 3.8 with an exhaust and filter that has 16HP more, but around 20 lb ft torque less so pretty close (again don’t get hung up on the numbers, dynos are what they are and its not the point of this post). Below is the overlay of the “thrust curves” for the two cars. The M9X car is in blue. One wants the highest line.




Now here is another overlay thats particularly interesting, this time using a 997.1 GT3 with a 3.6 engine. It was giving wheel numbers that were almost 20HP and 40 lb ft down on the M9X engine dyno posted earlier. Again the M9X car is in blue, again the line is on the bottom. If we were to plot these, taking speeds over a lap where things were changing back and forth the gap between the two would be considerable.




So what does it mean for the GT4. Well the short is that while a bigger engine will undoubtedly bring more power and more speed, be careful to not get sucked in by the numbers and properly evaluate what it is bringing to the car and how they work together. This will be even more true if it ends up being capped in terms of output in some way. It may all combine in one of those serendipitous moments where something incredible appears, but it may also be fundamentally the opposite of what is expected.

And for this thread, well I long ago took the view that the best approach to modifying modern naturally aspirated Porsche cars is to do what you can to enhance the subtleties that make these cars what they are. Enhance the balance and the essence of whats there. Lighten, sharpen and improve, add to the drama and the excitement. These are the things that make the car feel increasingly special. Ultimately, the quest for more power can sometimes be a counterproductive one in the end.

Edited by fioran0 on Tuesday 27th January 01:05

Steve Rance

5,446 posts

231 months

Tuesday 27th January 2015
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Excellent post Old Chap

Mermaid

21,492 posts

171 months

Tuesday 27th January 2015
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fioran0 said:
Stuff +


And for this thread, well I long ago took the view that the best approach to modifying modern naturally aspirated Porsche cars is to do what you can to enhance the subtleties that make these cars what they are. Enhance the balance and the essence of whats there. Lighten, sharpen and improve, add to the drama and the excitement. These are the things that make the car feel increasingly special. Ultimately, the quest for more power can sometimes be a counterproductive one in the end.
thumbup

keep it lit

3,388 posts

167 months

Tuesday 27th January 2015
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,quote=fioran0]
And for this thread, well I long ago took the view that the best approach to modifying modern naturally aspirated Porsche cars is to do what you can to enhance the subtleties that make these cars what they are. Enhance the balance and the essence of whats there. Lighten, sharpen and improve, add to the drama and the excitement. These are the things that make the car feel increasingly special. Ultimately, the quest for more power can sometimes be a counterproductive one in the end.

[/quote]


smile

J-P

Original Poster:

4,350 posts

206 months

Tuesday 27th January 2015
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Great post, Neil. Couldn't agree more.

PR36 - it's my intention that any mod I do is reversible. Don't want to f the car up!

Harris_I

3,228 posts

259 months

Tuesday 27th January 2015
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fioran0 said:
I need to see that car of yours in the flesh some time. I like it more and more every time I hear about it.
Ditto your Cup-spec road car. Mine will spend a while pottering around the SE running in the rebuilt engine then maybe a couple of local track outings towards the end of the year if all is well. Would be nice to enter the CSCC the year after as they have a new post-2000 production cars class.


Harris_I

3,228 posts

259 months

Tuesday 27th January 2015
quotequote all
J-P said:
it's my intention that any mod I do is reversible. Don't want to f the car up!
That's what we all say until the day you stare at a hole in the roof and the drill in your hand...


J-P

Original Poster:

4,350 posts

206 months

Wednesday 28th January 2015
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Harris_I said:
That's what we all say until the day you stare at a hole in the roof and the drill in your hand...
Yes I can see that. I'm hoping I just don't f it up!

J-P

Original Poster:

4,350 posts

206 months

Saturday 31st January 2015
quotequote all
I wouldn't do this for a while as the wheel / tyre combo I want is mega bucks but I'm thinking that a set of OZ superforgiatas would really finish it off as well as weigh significantly less than the OEM wheels.

The questions I have though, is what are offsets? Does it matter? Would getting significantly lighter wheels mean doing full geo to get the best from them?

Thanks All.

Trev450

6,320 posts

172 months

Saturday 31st January 2015
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J-P said:
The questions I have though, is what are offsets? Does it matter? Would getting significantly lighter wheels mean doing full geo to get the best from them?

Thanks All.
Fitting wheels with different offsets and/or weights to OE will not affect the geo in any way.

PorscheGT4

21,146 posts

265 months

Saturday 31st January 2015
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J-P said:
I wouldn't do this for a while as the wheel / tyre combo I want is mega bucks but I'm thinking that a set of OZ superforgiatas would really finish it off as well as weigh significantly less than the OEM wheels.

The questions I have though, is what are offsets? Does it matter? Would getting significantly lighter wheels mean doing full geo to get the best from them?

Thanks All.
You need a full geo any way by the sound of things how you feel about your R, and no point having a geo until you fit some adjustable LCA and some solid toe links.

You keep looking at 10k shocks and 5k wheels, but have not done the basics yet !

The adjustable lower control arms not only allows you to dial in some front neg camber, you get more steering feel and a much wider front track and a lower front end so a better rake on the car.

Spend £2k get the car set up and then take it from there, you may find you don't want shocks and wheels and the money is better spent on a 6 pot caliper change out.


Slippydiff

14,827 posts

223 months

Saturday 31st January 2015
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anonymous said:
[redacted]
Apologies for the long post in advance.

Simple one this J, get your bathroom scales out and weigh your 17's and 18's back to back please. smile

My own experiences with my first 996 GT2 whilst purely empirical, were that the PCCBs compared with the steels made a big difference to the car's behaviour.

I'm not sure what the weight or dimensions are of the 981 steel discs when compared to the PCCBs ?

But the difference between a 350 mm first generation PCCB disc and bell (6kgs IIRC) compared with a 350mm one piece steel disc at approx 16kg (or maybe more) made a big difference to steering weight (lighter) steering feel (less "damped") and initial turn (much easier and the front end being faster to respond to the initial steering input).

This thread on Rennlist is relevant to the 997 please note the weight differences between PCCB and steel discs aren't as large due to the fitment of Cup steel floating discs rather the boat anchor one piece OE 350mm discs. :

http://rennlist.com/forums/997-gt2-gt3-forum/53606...

But also the car's ability to cope with mid corner bumps was massively improved with the lighter discs. None of which is surprising when you're removing £20 +kgs of centrifugal force from the equation (I'm sure someone smarter than I can tell us how the effect of centrifugal force increases with rotational speed)

Whilst the effect on the GT2 was impressive, the fitting of AP six pots and lightweight floating discs on the front of the 1M was well nigh unbelievable.

The 1M has been criticised in some quarters for having suspension that is on the firm side. On the smooth roads of Southern France, it wasn't an issue, but on the UK's less than smooth blacktop, it was probably a fair assessment, and old fashioned cats eyes would have the front end thumping away harshly.

Furthermore, whilst the steering was weighty, it could hardly be described as tactile or feelsome like the helm of the 996 GT3.

I found the brakes on the 1M less than convincing under duress, so the decision to upgrade them to something more durable wasn't difficult.
The standard front brake arrangement comprises a single pot sliding caliper (and carrier bracket) fashioned from cast iron. The disc is a two piece affair with radial pins connecting it to the bell, to enable the disc and bell to expand and contract independently of each other.

The AP caliper is a six pot item hewn from aluminium alloy which utilises an aluminium adaptor The disc is slightly larger diameter than the original, but has large air gaps and runs a narrower annulus. The bell is lightweight aluminium.
Regrettably I didn't weigh the two brake assemblies, but the OE caliper and carrier weighed a ton, as did the disc ! ! The AP parts felt featherweight in comparison.

But it was difference felt when driving the car that really astounded me. The standard brakes weren't lacking power, merely durability. The AP's were on a different level altogether. Capable of stopping the car from 100mph time after time, their power was immense, this with even less pedal effort than the standard arrangement.
However the effect on the car's steering and suspension was equally, if not moreso, marked.

The car now glided over cats eyes almost imperceptibly, added to which the car's initial rate of turn in was truly incredible, the steering lighter, more responsive and able to telegraph far more accurately what was going on betwixt tyres and tarmac. Again it's ability to remain totally composed and planted over mid corner bumps was no doubt a feature of the dampers having less unsprung mass to contend with.

I'd never underestimate the benefits of reducing unsprung weight !




J-P

Original Poster:

4,350 posts

206 months

Saturday 31st January 2015
quotequote all
PorscheGT4 said:
J-P said:
I wouldn't do this for a while as the wheel / tyre combo I want is mega bucks but I'm thinking that a set of OZ superforgiatas would really finish it off as well as weigh significantly less than the OEM wheels.

The questions I have though, is what are offsets? Does it matter? Would getting significantly lighter wheels mean doing full geo to get the best from them?

Thanks All.
You need a full geo any way by the sound of things how you feel about your R, and no point having a geo until you fit some adjustable LCA and some solid toe links.

You keep looking at 10k shocks and 5k wheels, but have not done the basics yet !

The adjustable lower control arms not only allows you to dial in some front neg camber, you get more steering feel and a much wider front track and a lower front end so a better rake on the car.

Spend £2k get the car set up and then take it from there, you may find you don't want shocks and wheels and the money is better spent on a 6 pot caliper change out.
Will you please read my post. You have no idea what I a,pm or am not going to do so please stop making spurious assumptions on what "basics" I have or haven't done or what order I'll be doing mods.

Just in case you are hard of reading the very first line says I wouldn't do this for a while. I'd have thought that should have made absolutely clear that it's not top of my list of priorities and that I'm asking a simple question about something of which I have no knowledge. You've already made clear what you think I should do. Thank you for that, I don't need you to keep repeating it.



Edited by J-P on Saturday 31st January 15:39

J-P

Original Poster:

4,350 posts

206 months

Saturday 31st January 2015
quotequote all
Trev450 said:
J-P said:
The questions I have though, is what are offsets? Does it matter? Would getting significantly lighter wheels mean doing full geo to get the best from them?

Thanks All.
Fitting wheels with different offsets and/or weights to OE will not affect the geo in any way.
Thanks Trev. That's what I was looking for thumbup

J-P

Original Poster:

4,350 posts

206 months

Saturday 31st January 2015
quotequote all
I've found that I really notice the difference in unsprung mass. The difference between PCCB and steelies on the 911s I drove back to back was noticeable more from a handling perspective than actual braking force to me.

As Slippy said, I noticed this most on responsiveness and turn in but also ride quality.

Slippydiff

14,827 posts

223 months

Saturday 31st January 2015
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anonymous said:
[redacted]
Comments about weight differential between the OE and AP calipers specific to 1M Coupe smile I'd guess those single pot cast iron OE calipers and carriers weigh at least twice that of the AP six pot with its adaptor bracket.

As an aside the Mk2 six pot 996 GT3 calipers aren't heavy bearing in mind their considerable size, the pads however .......

But all joking aside, I'd really like to know the weight differential between the 17's and 18's on the Croc. And furthermore how much of that differential is the tyres.

J-P

Original Poster:

4,350 posts

206 months

Saturday 31st January 2015
quotequote all
anonymous said:
[redacted]
Yes I'd agree with that and (sadly) I think I'm one of those that couldnt cope with the look of the R on 17" wheels. In any case I doubt that the 17" wheels are lighter than those 19" OZ wheels, they're around 8kg or something! Stupidly light!

bcr5784

7,109 posts

145 months

Saturday 31st January 2015
quotequote all
What seems to get ignored are the surprisingly big difference in the weights of tyres. Dunlops are around 3kg a corner lighter than Bridgestones or Pirellis

Slippydiff

14,827 posts

223 months

Saturday 31st January 2015
quotequote all
J-P said:
I've found that I really notice the difference in unsprung mass. The difference between PCCB and steelies on the 911s I drove back to back was noticeable more from a handling perspective than actual braking force to me.
I suspect that plenty won't spec PCCB over steels's because they can't see any worthwhile value in them over and above the perceived performance benefits (which in reality are negligible). Whereas in reality the reduction in unsprung weight is just as great, if not moreso impressive (or certainly was on the 996 GT cars) The unfortunate thing being that those who have specced PCCBs are very unlikely to be aware that something as simple as a tyre change could nullify their weight reduction benefits........... It'd be interesting to see the differential in weights between the correctly sized N rated front 991 Pirellis, Continentals, Bridgestones and Michelin tyres......

J-P

Original Poster:

4,350 posts

206 months

Saturday 31st January 2015
quotequote all
Slippydiff said:
J-P said:
I've found that I really notice the difference in unsprung mass. The difference between PCCB and steelies on the 911s I drove back to back was noticeable more from a handling perspective than actual braking force to me.
I suspect that plenty won't spec PCCB over steels's because they can't see any worthwhile value in them over and above the perceived performance benefits (which in reality are negligible). Whereas in reality the reduction in unsprung weight is just as great, if not moreso impressive (or certainly was on the 996 GT cars) The unfortunate thing being that those who have specced PCCBs are very unlikely to be aware that something as simple as a tyre change could nullify their weight reduction benefits........... It'd be interesting to see the differential in weights between the correctly sized N rated front 991 Pirellis, Continentals, Bridgestones and Michelin tyres......
Yes that's a very good point (and BCRB's above) I really like PCCB and if I was never going near a track, I'd have been tempted by them but they're simply too expensive for hard use.